Subwoofer gives no reading on DMM

[slim142 9]

So yesterday I was coming back from college and on the way I was blasting my music like everyday.

10 mins before I got home, I noticed there was no lows

No burning smell at all. Which was weird...

Today I checked and the subwoofer is not playing. I checked the speaker wire connections, nothing out of place.

So I decided to use my DMM and read the coils, since I pushed the cone and it does not look or feel blown at all.

I used my DMM and both coils give me no reading. 0.L on the DMM.

I checked the coils and nothing seems burned, broken, out of place or moved.

I have no idea what could have happened to the sub. Any ideas?

[emh9009 199]

what setting did you use? try switching + and - too see if its out of phase by chance?

[Impious 1,476]

Make sure the DMM was on the correct setting.

If the DMM was set correctly, could be the tinsel leads.

[slim142 9]

what setting did you use? try switching + and - too see if its out of phase by chance?

I did try reading each coil, and even with the speaker wire connected in parallel, but nothing.

Make sure the DMM was on the correct setting.

If the DMM was set correctly, could be the tinsel leads.

The DMM was set on the ohm sign (resistance) like I always do for speakers. Last time I used it was like 4 months ago and it was working fine.

So considering the tinsel leads were defective by any chance, why wouldnt the sub play at all anyways? Is something I dont understand.

Edited September 29, 2011 by slim142

[shizzzon 461]

measure AT the tinsel leads, literally probe the leads and see if it reads anything.

[05Trailblazer 1]

one good trick, check one of your door speakers to see if its really the sub or ur dmm, then continue with checking the sub(if the dmm works)

[Impious 1,476]

So considering the tinsel leads were defective by any chance, why wouldnt the sub play at all anyways? Is something I dont understand.

The tinsel lead carries the power from the speaker terminal to the voice coil. If there's a disconnection somewhere in that chain, the voice coil would not receive the power from the speaker terminal and the DMM would read an open circuit or no resistance.

[slim142 9]

measure AT the tinsel leads, literally probe the leads and see if it reads anything.

This are my terminals

http://caraudiomag.com/sites/default/files/images/00000/31/83/kenwood_kfcxw100f.jpg

I inserted the leads into the terminals (which are push-pin just like the pic) nothing. I also tried touching only the circumference of the terminal, nothing. The surroundings of the terminals, nothing either.

I cant read from the tinsel leads, I have no access to those.

one good trick, check one of your door speakers to see if its really the sub or ur dmm, then continue with checking the sub(if the dmm works)

I honestly wouldnt like to open my doors just to test the DMM. Never done that to my BMW and I dont think I want to do that.

I sold 2 pairs of speakers that I had for sale last week, now I have no speakers to test the DMM.

Is the only way to see if the subwoofer is working or not is checking with a DMM?

Edited September 29, 2011 by slim142

[shizzzon 461]

u don't have access to the tinsel leads?

that makes no sense....

Pull the sub out and probe the tinsel leads

that's the closest reading u will get to the coils without cutting the soft parts out.

[05Trailblazer 1]

you have a home theater??

[slim142 9]

u don't have access to the tinsel leads?

that makes no sense....

Pull the sub out and probe the tinsel leads

that's the closest reading u will get to the coils without cutting the soft parts out.

The tinsel lead is that wire that sits right on top of the spider right?

In this SUBWOOFER you have 100% access to that.

However, in my subwoofer, you dont

http://www.cartuningparts.co.uk/img/pioneer-ts-w3002d4-dual-voice-coil-subwoofer-12-inch-3500w-max-power-nominal-1000w_664741_500.jpg

You see, there is a red "fence" that does not allow the tinsel lead or spider to be touched.

[05Trailblazer 1]

maybe ur wires are loose

[05Trailblazer 1]

http://www.cintelcorp.net/foto/pioneer-ts-w3002d4.jpg

[shizzzon 461]

oh wow! sorry man.. didn't know you had that restriction...

[duanebrow 6]

Sounds like its time to buy a real sub! LOL. Sorry, I don't know what to tell you other than to touch to leads of the dmm together. That should give you a reading - to make sure that it is working.

[slim142 9]

The first thing that comes to my mind is failure coming somewhere else.

Can heat cause failure in other area than the coils? The trunk is always hot and the sub would sometimes stays hot for long periods of time.

But whenever I smelled anything, I would turn it down.

I dont know, thats just a guess. Funny thing is that the sub does not smell and never smelled burned and does not look blown to the touch. Weird... right when I have a 3500D on the way

Edited September 30, 2011 by slim142

[Freshh 11]

Time for the Xcons?

[slim142 9]

Im still in that saving process. $900 will definitely be felt in the bank lol

In the mean time, Im sub-less and it really sucks

[Freshh 11]

Im still in that saving process. $900 will definitely be felt in the bank lol

In the mean time, Im sub-less and it really sucks

As am I, if that sub doesn't work, don't spend the money to fix it; just save until you have enough money for the upgrade you've been wanting to do imo!

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

You can check you door speakers by sticking the MM probes into the wire jacket anywhere, at the amp, under a trim plate, etc. just find the wire and stick your probes in there. That should tell you if your DMM is working.

If it is working and you get a reading on those, your tinsel are prolly burnt on your sub and it is reading an open circuit on your MM.

[slim142 9]

Ok looks like the subwoofer died.

I took it to an audio shop, they tested it and seems like it is dead. Weird cause it does not look blown to the touch.

I guess it overheated? Thats the only possible guess.

Anyways, my DMM works, when both probes touch I get random numbers.

R.I.P TS-W3002D4

It gave me over two years of monster and delicious bass. The abuse it took was outstanding. Best subwoofer Ive had to date. Will cry the moment I see the garbage truck take it away from me (ok maybe not lol)

Im trying to see if I can score a killer deal like 2 CVRs for $100 and hold on until I can get xcons. Since the xcons will take some time because I will need an extra battery and a custom enclosure, I cant be driving without bass.

[Beandip 3]

Rip apart the sub and find out for yourself what failed. I know I can't throw away something that "broke" without taking it completely apart .

There could be a few reasons why the leads failed. Age and overexcursion could have ripped them. Doubt they would overheat since they can usually hold up to the power until the coil burns....then again you never know.

My Fi Q leads broke after 3 years of abuse. the coil was perfect, but one coil didn't read anything. Upon taking it apart for a recone I found this.

I believe mine failed from use but either way you can visibly see the failure point.

This should give you a better idea what may have happened to yours.

[slim142 9]

I might want to take it apart and check. Just for the heck of it. Thanks for the tip.

On a side note, I just got 2 Kicker CVRs (2007 models) for $80 shipped. A dual 12" ported enclosure (tuned to 33hz, 1.67cubic ft per chamber) for $80 shipped. So Im back with Bass by next week wednesday (hopefully).

I think I got a good deal. Will sell it on craiglist in a few weeks once Im good to go for the XCONS

Edited October 1, 2011 by slim142

[16K 159]

just cause the subs voicecoils burnt up doesnt mean you'll be able to feel it by pushing the cone in lol....the sub will still feel the same.... i bet the voicecoil wires burnt up and snapped... especially if you have smelled it before... and you have smelled it more than once... they finally probably just snapped...

Edited October 4, 2011 by 10000wrms