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Just very quick since I'm on my phone and have to remember a bunch and can't use quotes lol.........the exodus/peerless combo would be the best sounding out of all the combos imo. Since you plan on using an external processor,the 9886 wouldn't be a bad headunit to look at as I had great success with my old one. The 3sixty.3 is not out until 2012 so that's not an option, the 3sixty.2 is great for the money since u can find them used for under 300, the bit 10 is a linedriver with internal dsp and wouldn't give you the control your looking for. Also DO NOT get it from eBay,as EVERY SINGLE ONE from Bulgaria and Malaysia have come back fake. They are 499 at an auth dealer. Lastly the bit 1 is the most complete and offers the best processing on the market right now. It has everything that you have asked for including 8 channels, digital inputs, 32 band eq per channel etc.......the price on these are 900 new and about a month wait if its not in stock, or average 700 used. I hope I have helped you in some way. Oh yeah, congrats on the sale!!

You have been a tremendous help. :drink40:

A used bit one is almost my entire budget so I'll look back to the 3sixty.2 or see if I can make real time adjustments to a minidsp with a laptop.

Thanks man.

For the 3sixty.2,

They show that you need a palm os device or smart phone with windows o/s on it for tuning, or visit their website for a list of compatible phones, yet there is no list. aggh

Have to find out if it'll work on either an ipad (doubtful) or an android o/s phone (droidx).

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Stef, someone is selling those HAT drivers on SMD .... You could probably get him to $150-170 for the pair if you really want them... This guy has been looking to get his setup changed since July but hasn't sold much of his stuff it seems... Check it out...

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Just very quick since I'm on my phone and have to remember a bunch and can't use quotes lol.........the exodus/peerless combo would be the best sounding out of all the combos imo. Since you plan on using an external processor,the 9886 wouldn't be a bad headunit to look at as I had great success with my old one. The 3sixty.3 is not out until 2012 so that's not an option, the 3sixty.2 is great for the money since u can find them used for under 300, the bit 10 is a linedriver with internal dsp and wouldn't give you the control your looking for. Also DO NOT get it from eBay,as EVERY SINGLE ONE from Bulgaria and Malaysia have come back fake. They are 499 at an auth dealer. Lastly the bit 1 is the most complete and offers the best processing on the market right now. It has everything that you have asked for including 8 channels, digital inputs, 32 band eq per channel etc.......the price on these are 900 new and about a month wait if its not in stock, or average 700 used. I hope I have helped you in some way. Oh yeah, congrats on the sale!!

You have been a tremendous help. :drink40:

A used bit one is almost my entire budget so I'll look back to the 3sixty.2 or see if I can make real time adjustments to a minidsp with a laptop.

Thanks man.

For the 3sixty.2,

They show that you need a palm os device or smart phone with windows o/s on it for tuning, or visit their website for a list of compatible phones, yet there is no list. aggh

Have to find out if it'll work on either an ipad (doubtful) or an android o/s phone (droidx).

you can use any windows pda, phone, or laptop that has bluetooth. The only setback is if the laptop has windows 7 then the software is not compatible. I believe it works with vista ok, but XP and back for sure. All of the windows phones and pdas work fine. You may be able to find one on craigs list for like 20 bucks. You can download or get more info about the software on Rockfords site. There is a used one up for 280. If you havent seen it Ill link you in a pm. its on another site.

Edited by total mayhem

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It doesn't look like the 9887 has a regular aux input, dammit.

You can buy the kce-236b which runs from the back of the unit and gives you aux input. It's around $20. Since you don't need iPod integration you might be able to use an older Alpine unit with BEP and it will be a little bit cheaper. I'm not sure about the older ones, but I know the front channel on the 9887 can be highpassed as low as you want which is good for using a midrange and mid. No L&R eq though.

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You could probably get him to $150-170 for the pair if you really want them...

Or you could get something better brand new for less than $100

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Just very quick since I'm on my phone and have to remember a bunch and can't use quotes lol.........the exodus/peerless combo would be the best sounding out of all the combos imo. Since you plan on using an external processor,the 9886 wouldn't be a bad headunit to look at as I had great success with my old one. The 3sixty.3 is not out until 2012 so that's not an option, the 3sixty.2 is great for the money since u can find them used for under 300, the bit 10 is a linedriver with internal dsp and wouldn't give you the control your looking for. Also DO NOT get it from eBay,as EVERY SINGLE ONE from Bulgaria and Malaysia have come back fake. They are 499 at an auth dealer. Lastly the bit 1 is the most complete and offers the best processing on the market right now. It has everything that you have asked for including 8 channels, digital inputs, 32 band eq per channel etc.......the price on these are 900 new and about a month wait if its not in stock, or average 700 used. I hope I have helped you in some way. Oh yeah, congrats on the sale!!

You have been a tremendous help. :drink40:

A used bit one is almost my entire budget so I'll look back to the 3sixty.2 or see if I can make real time adjustments to a minidsp with a laptop.

Thanks man.

For the 3sixty.2,

They show that you need a palm os device or smart phone with windows o/s on it for tuning, or visit their website for a list of compatible phones, yet there is no list. aggh

Have to find out if it'll work on either an ipad (doubtful) or an android o/s phone (droidx).

you can use any windows pda, phone, or laptop that has bluetooth. The only setback is if the laptop has windows 7 then the software is not compatible. I believe it works with vista ok, but XP and back for sure. All of the windows phones and pdas work fine. You may be able to find one on craigs list for like 20 bucks. You can download or get more info about the software on Rockfords site. There is a used one up for 280. If you havent seen it Ill link you in a pm. its on another site.

That would be great.

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I also happen to have a pair of these: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-874&FTR=tang%20band%20w6-1721

Forgot I had them in the closest. Their super heavy though... Now that I think of it, they probably weigh near the ex-anarchies.

Going to measure up the dash, apillars and kick panel area.

Biggest outer diameter I would feel comfortable doing in kick panels would be 7.5" absolute max. Max depth for driver: ~5"

On lower part of a-pillar right near dash I could easily fit a 4" driver with 3" or so of depth.

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One downfall to the 360.1(.2) is the Bluetooth is known to have problems. And should be noted.

I read about that, but I think they made some software update to fix that.

There's a guy on smd selling one right now (360.2), considering getting it and his rockford T400-4.

Then I'd just need speakers, a bluetooth palm pda, and I'm done. :P

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Update:

I'm trying to get a used rf 3sixty.2, I can use my mother's laptop (and buy a bluetooth adapter if need be) to set everything for processing.

Looking for a used 4 channel amp.

Sean I know you suggested that I go with something with larger cone area, but trying to fit an 8 incher in my kicks is plain going to suck when driving long distances, just takes up too much space.

Doesn't sound like an extra inch or so in width would make that much difference in terms of taking up space, but either the ex-anarchy or sls would definitely fit better.

I understand that xmax isn't everything, but the ex-anarchy has way way more then the sls, and everyone just raves about them for mid bass. Both the same price.

Lithium thought the aurosound 3"s I have may not play high enough, I'm going to install the amp, processor, mid bass drivers, and place 2 Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" Extended Range in a vertical array on each pillar, then fiddle with the processing, if they don't sound decent I haven't lost anything and I'll order four of the Peerless 830986, 3" Full Range and do a vertical array with them.

That's the plan at least. Seriously though, EVERYONE loves the ex-anarchies.

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Shallow 8 is more obnoxious than a deep 7?

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Shallow 8 is more obnoxious than a deep 7?

thats what she said

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Oh, one other comment. I've read complaints of 360's being noisy but not recently. Of course I ruled them off my list a few years back so just something to maybe double check.

Either way I personally prefer the control in a h/u which is going to limit you to the Ural CDD, Clarion 9255, Pioneer P9, or an Alpine unit with the H701 proc.

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Shallow 8 is more obnoxious than a deep 7?

Yeah, it's not the depth so much as just 8" in diameter is pretty hard pressed to fit, even if the depth was extremely shallow like 1"-2"

Oh, one other comment. I've read complaints of 360's being noisy but not recently. Of course I ruled them off my list a few years back so just something to maybe double check.Either way I personally prefer the control in a h/u which is going to limit you to the Ural CDD, Clarion 9255, Pioneer P9, or an Alpine unit with the H701 proc.

I haven't found anything besides user error where people had noise issues, perhaps it was fixed in the .2 model. I'll google some more and make sure it's not a common problem now.

I'm not planning on adjusting the processing all the time, I figure hopping in the vehicle in the drive way with the laptop for a few hours at the beginning, then making smaller adjustments as the weeks go by, then being pretty much done.

So I don't think I'll mind having to pull out the laptop.

Would plasticine clay work well for deadening / removing resonances from the fiberglass kick panels?

I appreciate all the help.

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I assume you are going 3 way? (didn't read all 3 pages) Are you trying to pinch pennies?

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I assume you are going 3 way? (didn't read all 3 pages) Are you trying to pinch pennies?

I've decided to do a 2 way, mid bass driver, and full range in vertical array (trying these: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/aurasound-ns3-193-8a-3-extended-range/ first since I happen to have some, then http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/peerless-830986-3-full-range/ if the aura's don't play high enough.)

My budget is about 900 tops for: drivers, amplifier, and processing. So depending on how you look at it, yes I am.

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Well, I was going to recomend doing a Rane AC 225 active crossover for your processing, but that'll put you a tad over budget.

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Sounds like a fun adventure you're on. I would say focus on getting the best processor you can afford first. That'll let you tinker with what you got. I run MS8s and love them. I'm dying to try a BitOne. I know you are looking at 3"-4" full-rangers, but try taking a look at similar sized co-ax speakers. Having that tweeter will help with the top end and bring you a little height. JL and Image Dynamics sell some nice ones. I'm cheap and have had good luck with the Powerbass "S" series of co-ax speakers. They have a nice silk dome tweeter on them. Good luck with your venture. Keep us posted on how it goes. :eek5wavey:

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I'm not planning on adjusting the processing all the time

ROFL. You aren't planning on it, but you'll need to do it. At least for the first couple months.

As for the question regarding deadening, constraining is better than just adding mass. Even better is to build them so they don't need extra constraints.

I've decided to do a 2 way, mid bass driver, and full range in vertical array (trying these: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/aurasound-ns3-193-8a-3-extended-range/ first since I happen to have some, then http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/peerless-830986-3-full-range/ if the aura's don't play high enough.)

Way more headunits available for 2 way. :)

Curious on your space. Having 3's stacked on top of each other gets to be a rather big "box" up in your pillar. Sure you have room for that?

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I'm not planning on adjusting the processing all the time

ROFL. You aren't planning on it, but you'll need to do it. At least for the first couple months.

As for the question regarding deadening, constraining is better than just adding mass. Even better is to build them so they don't need extra constraints.

I've decided to do a 2 way, mid bass driver, and full range in vertical array (trying these: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/aurasound-ns3-193-8a-3-extended-range/ first since I happen to have some, then http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/peerless-830986-3-full-range/ if the aura's don't play high enough.)

Way more headunits available for 2 way. :)

Curious on your space. Having 3's stacked on top of each other gets to be a rather big "box" up in your pillar. Sure you have room for that?

Well the know the thing to going active is, you will always be adjusting it and adjusting it until it's just right. And "just right" won't ever actually happen lol. But I feel confident in using a laptop and several hours of detailed listening for months to come. :)

So I just pulled out the 3" auras I had, tried placing them on the a-pillar as I thought would be rather easy and your right, they take up a fair amount of space.

If I was to put a 4"-5" mid range in the dash (firing towards windshield) could this be something I could eq? Or as onebadmonte suggested, just put a coaxial (still in dash). :attempt:

In order for a vertical array to work properly, do they have to be directly on axis with each other? Or could one be on the a-pillar while the other is below and an inch off axis to the right?

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what car is this going in again? i think i missed that somewhere.

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I'm not planning on adjusting the processing all the time

ROFL. You aren't planning on it, but you'll need to do it. At least for the first couple months.

As for the question regarding deadening, constraining is better than just adding mass. Even better is to build them so they don't need extra constraints.

I've decided to do a 2 way, mid bass driver, and full range in vertical array (trying these: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/aurasound-ns3-193-8a-3-extended-range/ first since I happen to have some, then http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/peerless-830986-3-full-range/ if the aura's don't play high enough.)

Way more headunits available for 2 way. :)

Curious on your space. Having 3's stacked on top of each other gets to be a rather big "box" up in your pillar. Sure you have room for that?

Well the know the thing to going active is, you will always be adjusting it and adjusting it until it's just right. And "just right" won't ever actually happen lol. But I feel confident in using a laptop and several hours of detailed listening for months to come. :)

So I just pulled out the 3" auras I had, tried placing them on the a-pillar as I thought would be rather easy and your right, they take up a fair amount of space.

If I was to put a 4"-5" mid range in the dash (firing towards windshield) could this be something I could eq? Or as onebadmonte suggested, just put a coaxial (still in dash).

In order for a vertical array to work properly, do they have to be directly on axis with each other? Or could one be on the a-pillar while the other is below and an inch off axis to the right?

on axis means shooting at yooo face, both side of course.

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what car is this going in again? i think i missed that somewhere.

2002 volvo v40.

The dash looks like this:

2002-volvo-v40-interior.jpg

LMAO.

06.jpg

I'm not planning on adjusting the processing all the time
ROFL. You aren't planning on it, but you'll need to do it. At least for the first couple months.As for the question regarding deadening, constraining is better than just adding mass. Even better is to build them so they don't need extra constraints.
I've decided to do a 2 way, mid bass driver, and full range in vertical array (trying these: http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/aurasound-ns3-193-8a-3-extended-range/ first since I happen to have some, then http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/peerless-830986-3-full-range/ if the aura's don't play high enough.)
Way more headunits available for 2 way. :) Curious on your space. Having 3's stacked on top of each other gets to be a rather big "box" up in your pillar. Sure you have room for that?
Well the know the thing to going active is, you will always be adjusting it and adjusting it until it's just right. And "just right" won't ever actually happen lol. But I feel confident in using a laptop and several hours of detailed listening for months to come. :)So I just pulled out the 3" auras I had, tried placing them on the a-pillar as I thought would be rather easy and your right, they take up a fair amount of space.If I was to put a 4"-5" mid range in the dash (firing towards windshield) could this be something I could eq? Or as onebadmonte suggested, just put a coaxial (still in dash).In order for a vertical array to work properly, do they have to be directly on axis with each other? Or could one be on the a-pillar while the other is below and an inch off axis to the right?
on axis means shooting at yooo face, both side of course.

Yes but I wasn't sure it they had to be perfectly aligned.

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mmmm, an array is gonna look pretty huge on those pillars.

and i dont like the idea of shooting a mid into the windshield either.

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