HT cabinets, practice done

[sandt38 448]

Well, as you guys may or may not know I am in the process of the design, and construction of my HT cabinets. The Adire Kit81 units in a ported box using flared vents is in order.

I have spent weeks practicing with clear lacquer, as a how to. I have a ton of wood scraps out in the garage I have been practicing differant techniques, and materials and I have found my method. I have tried schelac, varnish, laquer, polyeurothane, and tung oil. I have tried several methods of application of each and I have found my very favorite to be Deft Lacquer, with a natural brush. I have a piece out in the garage with 8 coats of lacquer, but the final product on the units will be around 16 coats. All hand sanded, compounded, and polished. The result will be a mirror like shine over a complex woodgrain.

South American Crotch Mahogany is the wood of choice, but next Saturday I am going to Charlotte to a big woodworking show, and depending on what is there, I may have a change of heart. Here is the Crotch Mahogany. It is a veneer, and a pricy one at that.

The enclosure assemblies below are small versions. We basically attempted a few ideas and wood types for the design, as well as differant inlays. We are working to find the best cutting method, and joining method possible. Rather than using an expensive veneer, we simply used an old cherry veneer we had sitting around. The inlays are black walnut, and likely what we are figuring will be used in the final assembly. I have several woods to choose from, including purpleheart, bubinga, zebrawood, and bloodwood, but I feel the Black Walnut will suit my needs best. As the lacquer is added to the units below, you will see the grain climb out, and the Black Walnut become almost dead black. These first pics are in the rough, sanded fitted, all ready for trial lacquer coats.

While they are miniature, they will be exactly the methood and appearance of the final product. I think we will be using the 1/4 inch inlays rather than the 3/8. I will lacquer the units to pull the grain and color out, and be sure I want the fine inlays, rather than the heavier inlay.

Here is the face of the unit with 1/4 inch inlays.

Here is a detail of the inlay, from the end with tthe cutaway showing how we set the inlay.

The face of the 3/8 inlay.

Another face shot, with a bit of an end view.

A detail of the 3/8 cut. We found this method to be the best for the wood we will be using (3/4 MDF). We cut a straight 45 degree cut, and flip the board over and using a 1/8 blade, we cut a spline into the edge. We then cut the 1/8 inch plywood to fit the joint. A very slick and simple method that works very well.

Now I will show some comparisons for the units, side by side;

Side by side

Angled

Again

Detailed end comparison. The 3/8 is bigger than the 1/4, in case you were unaware.

The wood block I am holding on the top of the box is the mahogany. All I did in the pics was change the angle of the wood, I did not flip it or anything. Comparatively, you can see the color differance between the cherry on the box, and the Mahogany block. Notice the color change as the mahogany is turned.

Mahogany/cherry 1

Mahogany/cherry 2

I will add some pics as the Lacquer draws out the color in the woods... Let me know what you think of the design thus far.

[Chevy350TPI 12]

From a carpenters point of view, very well built and structured.

Honestly, a very nice choice of wood as well

Looks good to far

- Steve

[02ram 0]

Very nice, I do woodworking for a living. Nice choice in wood. I like tiger maple with clear finish. Have you heard of duravar or magnamax? You can get them in different sheens and get a very nice finish when sprayed. Here is a pic of my stands I built out of walnut and a maple inlay.

[02ram 0]

ewww, sry, didn't know that pic was so big..

[sandt38 448]

Very nice, I do woodworking for a living. Nice choice in wood. I like tiger maple with clear finish. Have you heard of duravar or magnamax? You can get them in different sheens and get a very nice finish when sprayed. Here is a pic of my stands I built out of walnut and a maple inlay.

How amazing is that!!! I actually got some tiger mahogany for the project!!!

I saw this stuff and it blew my mind. I loved the way it changed color with the

changing light. Here are a couple practice slabs...

Ignore the stain lines, that was practice. The bottom portion, the red section, is

unstained, just lacquered.

02Ram,

That is some beautiful work there. I love the inlays being used to cover the cableing.

I will keep that idea in mind when I build some stands for my surrounds. Very nice.

Edited March 20, 2004 by sandt38

[02ram 0]

Thanks, I like your wood choice. pretty

I wish I lived near you, I could help out if needed, I live doing different stuff. Most is just same o' every day.

Our website is www.4mantels.com if you want to see some stuff we have done.

Take care, and good luck.

Roger., btw, in live in IL.

[sandt38 448]

Well here are some pice. The first are the crossover components for 1 side (yes, there are 2 sets of these components).

Here are the faces of the AV8 and the TM025F1 tweet (textile dome horn tweet)

Here is a closeup of the tweeter, and 1 with my cell for comparison (I have a Motorola V60GI)

And the nasty MASSIVE port tube. It is 3 inches ID, double flared, and currently over a foot long.

Shiva AV8 motor compare...

And lastly, the Shiva and the AV8 side by compare.

Oh yeah, for those of you who care the link to all the cabinet pics is

http://sound-foundations.us/HTcabinets/

[sandt38 448]

OK, so I am more excited then everybody else about this, but hell, it is my current project. I have a few pics of the constructed cabinets. I added one next tto my TV for a demonstration of the speaker's size. They are 36 3/4 inches tall, and 9 inches wide, and 12 3/4" deep. All I have left to do is lay the second baffle on (I am doing a double baffel and flush mounting the driver/port). I included a pic of 1 of the baffels as I have veneered the baffels so the veneer is fully set when I cut out the circles. I don't want any flaking and splintering of the veneer, so I am attatching it, then adding the second baffel and cutting it.

Anyways, I still need to add the eggcrate to the insides, so the wood visible through the port flare will not be visable. Also, this is just part of the port dropped in there for a visual, the actual port tube will be longer than what you are seeing now.

Not too big really, a nice fit with the system overall I feel.

Solid construction. Look at the braces. I have 3 internal braces in the units.

A quick drop in fit so you get an idea of the final product.

Here is the baffle covered in the veneer. The veneer is totally raw right now, the laquer will bring the grain out even better.

[02ram 0]

looking good, of course your excited, it's yours. I don't think it has to do with no one else caring, more that not many people on this board. Seems kinda dead around here.

[Chevy350TPI 12]

Looks awesome so far.

I wish I had a TV that big

- Steve

[Below 30 0]

What's the progress now. How's the setup sounding to you.

[sandt38 448]

The crossovers are complete and the trial run has begun...

I put them together (without the second baffel and veneer) to be sure they were cool. I stuffed the units with 20 Oz of polyfill apiece (~8 behind the woofer, ~2 in the port section (not in the port, just that section) and 10 in the lower portion). Initially they were very bright, and very boomy. I had read this was common for the mid and tweet. I played it for a couple hours the first night (using Tool, Undertow as it covers a very broad frequency range), and have played it a bit since. The mids and tweets are starting to come around nicely. I listened through the CD once on the second day, and restarting it I could hear a huge differance in the sound of the units. Dispertion is amazingly broad. Down the hallway it is still ver tonaly correct (of course reverb is causing cancellation). The crossover is very tight, the drivers stay very accurate and well controlled throughout the spectrum.

So far I am very pleased. They are continuing to mellow and after full break in I will comment further, but this is after watching Gladiator, LOTR The Two Towers, and part of The Patriot:

While the tweet is still too bright on axis for music, it is very accurate, and sounds amazing while watching movies. I knew the horn loaded tweet may cause some issue for me (with music, but a large part of that is the type of music I listen to), and I may still opt to change it out. But another part of me is screaming how good it sounds while watching a film, which is really what I use my system for.

The mids are brutal. For music I am running straight stereo, no subwoofer, and the impact is strong and true... actually physical when sitting a full 17 feet away in the listening position. That's right, you feel it hit. Very powerful and true. The cabinets are tuned low, 32Hz, and it is very easy to tell the units are very comfortable getting low. I only heard audible stress when I first fired them up and the suspension was tight as a snare drum. Now, I can't force this thing to stress.

They are a very beautiful sounding set. The orchestral music in Gladiator, and LOTR displays so much depth and beauty with this set I cannot believe the differance. I really had no idea what I was missing. These things are actually embarasing the old speakers, and I am planning to build a new center, and surrounds just to keep up.

Crossovers? Here is the schematic for you.

I will comment more after a full break in, but untill then this will have to do.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

wow nice job on the boxes

[Below 30 0]

Nothing like D.I.Y.

That's a true statement, you get a better perception of bass, the futher back you are. The waves open up by then.

Edited April 9, 2004 by Below 30

[sandt38 448]

I need to add something. I was starting to get tweeked by the tweeter, as I sat back and listened to Dave Matthews, so I strted to dig into my settings on the reciever. Apparently at some point I went in and bumped my mains 5.5Db . I don't know how I missed that. Anyways, I dialed them back down to 0Db (where the MCACC sets the speakers) and what a differance. I have actually gone in and EQ'd the tweets up some since, rather than leaving them flat.

I have to retract my "might swap out the tweeter" comment. Gimme a bit more time to listen and I will offer some more feedback :thud:

[strong*I*bumpin 0]

Sweet stuff,did you cut out the MDF for the towers & do you design x/o for cars aswell?

Edited April 15, 2004 by strong*I*bumpin

[sandt38 448]

Sweet stuff,did you cut out the MDF for the towers & do you design x/o for cars aswell?

I did all the cutting and assembleing. I have to credit Dan Wiggins with the crossover design. I am an ameture with it really. I have a few programs I am still working with and learning, but I am still learning how to properly impiment notch filters and traps like in my crossovers for these units, but my designs are quite newbish right now. I can link you to some nice software (that is freeware) still I think, but with it you do need to know how to properly impliment traps and notches as well as simple caps and inductors. While it will give you simple cap/inductor type crossovers, you need to know when other filters will benefit you, and it will properly impliment them into your design.

So to make a long tale short, I could... but I would like to play a bit more with some ideas before I design any for someone else. I need to learn a bit more about implimenting off axis and on axis installs in the design.

[strong*I*bumpin 0]

Thats kool sandt,been thinking about some DIY comps for the ride.What ever setup I come up with ,the mid must be no more than 2.5 inches(bottom of mounting flange to the magnet).Maybe u can make some suggestion,oh BTW those towers must REALLY sound nice!

[sandt38 448]

Thats kool sandt,been thinking about some DIY comps for the ride.What ever setup I come up with ,the mid must be no more than 2.5 inches(bottom of mounting flange to the magnet).Maybe u can make some suggestion,oh BTW those towers must REALLY sound nice!

What kind of money are you looking at spending, and why the 2.5 inches of depth? If you make a quick adapter plate out of 3/4 inch you would have over 3 inches room and really expand your possibilities.

Also, are 7 inchers out of the question?

And what component sets (typical in store sets) do you like? I hate to reccomend on my taste and find out you like MBQuarts or something. How low are you looking to cross over, and could you give me an idea of speaker placement (both mid and tweet) and install type (kick, stock door, or door pod). Oh yeah, also give me an idea of what you like in a speaker (outside of a similar set). Like, are you into strong midrange, deep smooth midbass, bright highs... you know, a strong point in the set.

As far as the towers, I cannot say enough good stuff about them. To quote my friend flawlesskid who heard them just 2 days ago; "they give me a warm and fuzzy feeling all over"... Awesome, awesome, awesome... :boink:

[strong*I*bumpin 0]

Well lets see,the tweet would go right next to the door release latch(present location),I'd say its about shoulder level & the mid would go in the stock location(door),thats at shin level.The mounting depth,I can do 3" with .75 MDF adapter,that would give me enough room behind the magnet so that the window can roll all the way down.As for adapters,I did make some for the Kicker mids I have now and I think I can fit 7's in there(original 6x9 cut out).I like my tweets smooth,my Kickers are silk and I like how they sound.As for mid-bass ,deep-smooth is what I prefer.Hope I dont sound cheap but I'm looking to spend $150-200(ok go ahead laugh it up!) ,well I think I covered all the bases,please feel free to make any suggestions with the info provided,thanx!

[sandt38 448]

Well lets see,the tweet would go right next to the door release latch(present location),I'd say its about shoulder level & the mid would go in the stock location(door),thats at shin level.The mounting depth,I can do 3" with .75 MDF adapter,that would give me enough room behind the magnet so that the window can roll all the way down.As for adapters,I did make some for the Kicker mids I have now and I think I can fit 7's in there(original 6x9 cut out).I like my tweets smooth,my Kickers are silk and I like how they sound.As for mid-bass ,deep-smooth is what I prefer.Hope I dont sound cheap but I'm looking to spend $150-200(ok go ahead laugh it up!) ,well I think I covered all the bases,please feel free to make any suggestions with the info provided,thanx!

$150-160 is great actually. I am like you and I love deep smooth midbass, and your pricerange and depth makes my favorites work well...

I was thinking you were looking to spend less and my thought was the 7 inch Vifa PL mids (which is why I wanted depth and 7 inches . For the price they are really nice, but for a little more you can do better... and, if you got $160 you must use the Koda 6. Very nice off axis responce, and it needs 3 inches of space which you have. They are very smooth, and very deep. (I know, I sound like a salesman, but seriously, the price and your goals make this a great fit) :boink:

[sandt38 448]

Flawlesskid's first input on the set (copied from www.caraudioplanet.com thread "New Toy" in the HT section)

To be honest, i was given the warm and fuzzy feeling all over. The speakers really put a smile on my face. I'm busy with some semiconductor technology homework, so i dont have time for a full review. I see no end to the work i'm into right now, so who knows when i'll be able to give more of a review, but for now i'll just say that adire is definately on my mind for HT. Good job seth.. I was more than impressed.

I had to ask him though, what is more important, your future or audio . Kid's these days

Edited April 16, 2004 by sandt38

[strong*I*bumpin 0]

Flawlesskid's first input on the set (copied from www.caraudioplanet.com thread "New Toy" in the HT section)

To be honest, i was given the warm and fuzzy feeling all over. The speakers really put a smile on my face. I'm busy with some semiconductor technology homework, so i dont have time for a full review. I see no end to the work i'm into right now, so who knows when i'll be able to give more of a review, but for now i'll just say that adire is definately on my mind for HT. Good job seth.. I was more than impressed.

I had to ask him though, what is more important, your future or audio . Kid's these days

What about for tweets and X/O's?

[ss454 0]

Looks good man. I have a bunch of Orange Osage curing in the shop now. This looks like a good project for it. I am also building some guitar bodies out of it. I think the Kit you bought is the one for me!

[sundownz 197]

I found that Audax tweeter to be a bit too bright on axis as well. My experience was not with an Adire kit though, but with the tweeter in my car for a few weeks. Off-axis it's a different beast and sounds quite good IMHO. With Adire's advanced crossover networks I'm sure they probably tamed that tweeter as well as anyone could though, certainly a better implementation than I heard it in.