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bakedboy08@yahoo.com

what do you guys think of these..

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I wouldn't put so much emphasis on RMS rating. You will most likely be happy with either the SA or the SSD, but for my money I'd get the SSD. It might be a little easier to get a smooth response from them

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There's a lesson in how the equipment works that needs taught here I believe. Subs don't "pull" power or put a "strain" on any amplifier. Now, that doesn't speak to the impedance the amp is seeing, I'm just referring to the fact that speakers are stupid. They do as they're told and are in no way an intelligent device that uses, pulls or requires power to operate. Now, if you wire any speaker(s) to any amp and the impedance is less than the amp is rated for it will stress the amp, but that has NOTHING to do with the wattage the speaker(s) are rated at. You can put a 10,000 watt speaker on a 1 watt amp and it won't stress that amp any worse than it would a 10,000 watt amp, it just won't get as loud obviously. As long as whatever subs you get have a final impedance that didn't go below 1 ohm it won't matter if they're rated for 300wrms or 2,000 wrms it's not going to stress the amp any differently at 1 ohm.

And I'll admit I'm biased, go with Fi.... :D

Alright cool that makes so much more sense man and that would mean later on down the road if i wanted to go bigger all i would have to do is get a bigger amp and really get them moving, and with a lil less power i know i wont be blowing the subs up as long as i set the gains right, im really liking the idea of the ssd's have heard nothing but good about them

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I think either option would meet your expectations. If you want made in the USA, go with Fi.

Yea i think either one would be a good upgrade from my 1 12" right now

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so would i just take the power i want to use from the amp and x's it by the ohm load to get the voltage reading from amp? so do like 1800 x 1.3 and then get the square root of that to determine the volts i need to set the gain too? sound correct

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hmmm theres also the option of 4 10" dcons wired to 2ohms getting around 1200 watts, but would that be any better then 3 sa-10's or ssd's at about 2k watts?

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I love my dcon. Thats would I would pick as long as they can fit. You are correct about the amplifier setting.

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hmmm theres also the option of 4 10" dcons wired to 2ohms getting around 1200 watts, but would that be any better then 3 sa-10's or ssd's at about 2k watts?

Its hard to say, your best bet is to measure the are you have to work with then figure out what you can fit. All install dependent and its hard to say which one will out perform the other. Dcons have less motor force than the other subs but you have more cone area, its really a toss up.

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yea i just dont know if it would be worth it going 4 10" dcons because it would be on the same power as im running now just ALOT more cone area, yes i have the room it would be in a 5.6 cuft box total 31" long 15" high and 26" deep they would be on the top of box with aero ports in the front. Just dont know if it would be louder then say 3 10's on almost 1000 more watts

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Ok so this is gonna be my first time using aero ports and dont really know what i need. Im going to have a box that is about 5cubes after sub displacement, what will i need to get a tuning of 32hz? subs will be facing up and ports in front facing license plate so i can put probably 3 aeros in front just dont know what size and how long

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Ok so this is gonna be my first time using aero ports and dont really know what i need. Im going to have a box that is about 5cubes after sub displacement, what will i need to get a tuning of 32hz? subs will be facing up and ports in front facing license plate so i can put probably 3 aeros in front just dont know what size and how long

I would do (3) 4" Aero ports. For a 5 cubic foot box tuned to 32hz. You ports would need to be 17.91 with flare or 16.91 without the flare. I use PSP ports and they have a nice tool on there website. Just plug in your info.

PSP Tool

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Ok yea i was over there checking it out but i didnt know exactly how it worked if that was total length for all ports or for each one. I see they sell a 4" complete flared port that is 17" long, would 3 of those work? I want one set thats at like 32hz and one at 35 hz

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I think four 10" DCON's is a great way to go as well, and they're ALWAYS the option of upgrading down the road to say four SSD's or BL's and strapping in another 2K amp and really getting crazy with it, lol.

Also, that little difference in tuning and may or may not be very audible. What I would do is use a sealed sub setup to find out what frequency the car peaks at, then have one set of ports for tuning to sound good and another set to tune it for getting loud or competing.

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Yea it sounds like a good idea because i can fit 4 10's pretty easy as long as i top mounth them. I just gotta find out the exact cuft of 31" long 15" high and 26" deep, re says its 5.6 when i put the port numbers both at .1 to come up with sorta a sealed enclosure because it wont have a slot port, how much displacement do you think 3 4" ports at a length of 18" would take up in a box?

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Lol ok ok so anyone have any good well built loud 600 watt subs around 150-200$ please let me know

*cough* IA Lethal Injection *cough*peepwall.gif

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Lol ok ok so anyone have any good well built loud 600 watt subs around 150-200$ please let me know

*cough* IA Lethal Injection *cough*peepwall.gif

Havnt heard too much about these, any reason why you recommend these over sa-10's?

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im pretty sure these subs are built here.... my local audio shop uses these as his personal subs. i heard 2 15's of his in a suv and they wang hard.

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hmm something else to consider other then some SA-10's, im pretty much going for loud but i want it to sound good too. How come they dont list any pecs for the LI?

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I believe they do in the IA section on here. If you want more sq subs from IA go with the flatlynes.

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Lol ok ok so anyone have any good well built loud 600 watt subs around 150-200$ please let me know

*cough* IA Lethal Injection *cough*peepwall.gif

Havnt heard too much about these, any reason why you recommend these over sa-10's?

If I'm not mistaken he has ran an IA sub before. From the reviews I've read in the past the LI seems like it could be a good match for your goals. Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you currently have a D1 BL 12" and an AQ2200? I know its not "different", but I really think you should consider adding another BL. If you got the electrical to back running the AQ at 1 ohm you would certainly see a noticeable increase in output and it would match your goals very well in the right box. I personally would have a very hard time overlooking that option if I were you. It will meet your goals and be considerably cheaper than buying new subs. Just my opinion. Good luck with your system I hope it turns out well for you

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Lol ok ok so anyone have any good well built loud 600 watt subs around 150-200$ please let me know

*cough* IA Lethal Injection *cough*peepwall.gif

Havnt heard too much about these, any reason why you recommend these over sa-10's?

If I'm not mistaken he has ran an IA sub before. From the reviews I've read in the past the LI seems like it could be a good match for your goals. Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you currently have a D1 BL 12" and an AQ2200? I know its not "different", but I really think you should consider adding another BL. If you got the electrical to back running the AQ at 1 ohm you would certainly see a noticeable increase in output and it would match your goals very well in the right box. I personally would have a very hard time overlooking that option if I were you. It will meet your goals and be considerably cheaper than buying new subs. Just my opinion. Good luck with your system I hope it turns out well for you

Correct, I have a Flatlyne in my current rotation of subs, it always seems to find itself back into my setup after I try different subs. It seems IA is often over looked by people and they shouldn't be. IMO I wouldn't hesitate to go with IA again.

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