Saz 1500D v1 Power output

[Colbyjack 0]

Hey guys, first post, but a long time follower of the forum. So here's my questions.

I've got a 98 explorer with a 130amp alternator, yellow top optima 55AH, upgraded big 3 (i think, got a question about that too in this post) with all 4 gauge, 1.5 farad Rockford cap w/ digi display, one Saz 1500d, and one jl 13w7 in a ported box built to the jl specs, wired in parallel so it's at 0.75ohm load.

Looking at the owners manual for the 1500d it says 1500@1ohm, 800@2ohm, etc., so what would it be pushing at 0.75ohms? I have a 100amp ANL fuse between the battery and the cap. The owner of a local car audio shop told me that my amp wasn't pushing more than 1000 watts if i wasn't blowing my 100 amp fuse, is that true? If so, why is that, since my sub is wired at 0.75ohms?

Also, I'm still getting some headlight dimming, and can see my voltmeter drop on hard notes, especially on low notes. I'm looking at getting a Kinetik power cell, but not sure which one I should get. Maybe the HC1800? I have upgraded the big 3 (at least i did what i was told), but the same shop owner told me when doing the upgrade of the engine block to chassis that I should use a mounting bolt on the alternator since it is bolted directly to the block, then run it to the chassis, which I did. He said not to do the engine ground strap because it's unnecessary, but from what I've been reading online recently, some people say that is the most important one to upgrade. So know I'm kind of confused as to which info is correct, and if I have actually done what is necessary to see the results of upgrading the big 3. I know its a lot of questions at once, but any info you all can give me would be great. Thanks.

[Colbyjack 0]

Well I blew my 100 amp fuse today ha! It's been a while since I've been able to play my stereo for longer than a couple of minutes at a time. Took about ten minutes today on some good ol bass mekaniks. So I guess I am pullin some where over 100amps, at least a little bit over. Anyways, my other questions still stand is someone can help me out a bit. Thanks.

[RAM_Designs 25]

Fuses can handle about 150% of their rated amperage for a few seconds before they blow. And in your case, you probably aren't even needing to use all of that amp to get your W7 moving fine. If you actually put the amp in a situation where it could be pushed to the max, it can easily put out over 1500 watts. I clamped mine at a little over 2kw when I was burping it. Unknown distortion level though.

[Colbyjack 0]

I know the 13w7 can handle a maximum of 1500rms, but I'm trying to get my electrical setup for when I get rid of the w7 and move to a different sub setup. The only reason I even got it was a guy was selling it thinking it was the 12, and was asking $250 for it. So I grabbed it, used it for a little while, and am going to sell it soon. Looking to go with three SA-12's. I know I've got some electrical upgrading still to do, just tryin to take things one step at a time.

[[email protected] 6]

It could just be that those w7's draw a lot of power because when i had my 12w7 on a rf t1000 i prob went through like 10-15 80a fuses in a week then i finally had a 150a interfire fuse installed and that solved all my problems.

[Duran 387]

It could just be that those w7's draw a lot of power because when i had my 12w7 on a rf t1000 i prob went through like 10-15 80a fuses in a week then i finally had a 150a interfire fuse installed and that solved all my problems.

I subwoofer doesn't draw any power.

[Colbyjack 0]

Got my 150amp fuse today so we'll see what happens. I am still looking for a second battery in the back by my amp. I've seen a lot of good things about kinetik and xs power. Any recommendations between the two? And I will be upgrading all of my wires to 0 awg hyperflex soon, local shop has it for $4.50/ft with Ring terminals included for every 10ft purchased.

[Beandip 3]

You could go with welding cable for $2.30 or so a foot (depending on your local welding supply) Just a suggestion though.

[Luke.H 33]

Got my 150amp fuse today so we'll see what happens. I am still looking for a second battery in the back by my amp. I've seen a lot of good things about kinetik and xs power. Any recommendations between the two? And I will be upgrading all of my wires to 0 awg hyperflex soon, local shop has it for $4.50/ft with Ring terminals included for every 10ft purchased.

Welding cable would save you some money, but go with whatever makes you happy. If you need a really flexible cable the hyperflex would be a better choice, but most installs don't call for that. As for the batteries, both are fine. If you need to save a little money on batteries for the rest of your system go with whatever you can get a better deal on.

[Colbyjack 0]

Cool, thanks. I've heard about using welding wire instead, but never really looked into it. Is it really just as good as audio wire?

[Beandip 3]

If anything better. the insulation is rubber and not PVC so the heat resistance is much greater and wont melt like PVC will. the cable isnt as flexible, but you can still tie it in a knot if you wanted to. also with it not being as flexible the strands are tighter i suppose, while its a little harder to bend, its a bit smaller than the standard 1/0 "stereo" cable so its easier to work with as far as routing and fits into the amp terminals easier. by smaller i mean the wires are tightly packed instead of loosely braided to allow "flexibility" this makes the cable a bit smaller on the visual side but it is in fact 1/0.

think of it this way, welding cable is designed to be dragged on concrete, stepped on, have showers of sparks thrown at it, laying on hot steel...etc. i know stereo cable cant stand to that.

just took some pics

you can see the stereo cable is "bigger"

You can see the "air" gap on the stereo wire. a looser braid gives more flexibility...but then its just bulky. welding cable is tightly packed strands with a tight jacket.

as far as flexibility...good enough

Edited July 13, 2011 by beandip

[Colbyjack 0]

That's awesome beandip, thanks for the detailed reply! It's nice when somebody gives that indepth of a reply with pics and all, instead of just a, "yes".

[RiottStarr 5]

soo, i was just reading this thread and figured id chime in. first and foremost.....the fuse problem. the v1 1500 is fused at 40x4....thats a 160 amp fuse minimum to reach its full potential. second your big 3 set up......usually the alt is grounded to the engine block soo it is very important to get it grounded back to the battery. and 3rd. welding wire. tis what i run from my batteries under the truck to a distribution block. then i run Knu Konceptz to my amps. soo what you see looks nice. and as for size of welding wire, a "number 2" welding cable is the same as 1/0. i work with the stuff daily and said to myself "self, this shit pulls 500 amps all day long and dont even get warm....USE THAT SHIT DUMMY!" just my 2 cents i suppose...

[Colbyjack 0]

Thanks for the reply RlottStar. Ive got my alt+ to my bat+, my bat- to the chassis, and I've got one from the block to the chassis via a mounting bolt on the alt casing since it is bolted directly to the block. Do I need to run another from the bat- to the block? Side note, I also added a run of 4awg to a ground strap from the chassis to the body (which had a terrible connection due to road grime) and it gave me a .2 idling voltage boost.

[RiottStarr 5]

yes, should be good. my batt- is from the actual alt. mounting bolt. bought a slightly longer bolt to achieve this. figured its the absolute path of least resistance " rather than run through the block and whatever else". then from batt- to chassis/frame. then batt- to the body. then obviously alt+ to batt+. thats just for the overall performance of my truck. but works for great grounding platform. i run a pos+ and neg- all the way back to my amps...it may be wrong, it may be right? it may be over kill! but it works great.