Stupid question...

[Beandip 3]

Hello everyone. Anyways my stupid question is does jacob send tracking info when shipping an item? If so I suppose my amp hasn't shipped yet. Just curious though. I searched for my old email from when I ordered my 1500d but didn't see it.

Also since I made a thread I suppose I'll do a mini build of installing the amp (125.2) on my components. I know everyone likes pics

One more thing. It appears the led on my remote gain on my saz-1500 died, is that common or what? Not too concerned since it's just an led but I'd thought i would ask. Going to test the led to confirm later.

Anyways thanks everyone and keep up the good work Jacob!

[jonbearsmt 919]

he sure do!!!

[ssh 924]

I've had two remotes, one led worked, other went out. Personally I liked the one with the burnt out led, otherwise your blinded by the light when driving at night

[Notorious97200 339]

I had to put something on the led because it was like a lighthouse in my car by night !

Sometimes the amp comes before the tracking : it's so fast with Fedex !!! I love to order from Jacob !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Beandip 3]

Yeah just curious when it's going to arrive. I have been checking my front door step daily lol. Just didn't know if he was behind or what.

Also there is a bit of a story behind the led.

Basically I have an air setup on my truck for my train horns. The remote turn on for the compressor is though the radio ACC circuit and the compeessor is grounded to yhe frame and the power ran directly to the battery. Anyways every time the compressor clicks off from reaching 150 psi I hear a small pop though my speakers and sub though the sub doesn't move, it's more of a click noise and nothing else. I found out one day that when I flipped the toggle off the led worked, then went out when switched on. Basically random but after a few months since then the led stopped today.

It's like the amp itself that powers the led is bad or whatever part. Anyways I bought a radio shack diode to see if it can stop the click noise but that didn't work...really the only option is to wire it though some other accessory option that won't be affected by that feedback. Really thought the diode would work though.

Sorry for the long story but there is no point in leaving out information.

Edited July 5, 2011 by beandip

[jonbearsmt 919]

the amp powers the LED

[Beandip 3]

Last time when it went out I had low voltage to the led. Can't remember how much though. I know LEDs use low voltage but when it started working the voltage was much higher.

[SeductiveSounds 0]

I removed my LED, WAY too bright for me at night.

As for the clicking, use a relay to isolate the compressor from the remote turn-on.

That will save you the clicking in the system.

Relay information.

Pin 85 - Ground

Pin 86 - Remote turn-on from radio

Pin 30 - 12V Compressor turn-on

Pin 87 - 12V Constant Source (Battery) - Be sure to fuse

Pin 87a - N/C

Hope that helps you out

[Beandip 3]

It's already on a relay. The pressure switch has one built in. Basically I already have it wired the way you posted. Pin 86 is what's on the radio ACC circuit. Not new to relays at all.

But thanks for the help.

:edit:

ok just tested the LED for power and its getting .73 volts....if i recall correctly it should be 1.5 volts.

And i didnt mention this earlier but the click noise only happens when the pressure switch itself switches the relay off....if i manually switch it no noise is heard. also i changed the location where the "remote" wire gets power for the compressor and that didnt change anything...its like its going throughout the whole system from the battery might just get a new pressure switch....but not going to whore this thread about that. i can troubleshoot a little further to be honest.

Edited July 6, 2011 by beandip

[jcarter1885 995]

Hello everyone. Anyways my stupid question is does jacob send tracking info when shipping an item? If so I suppose my amp hasn't shipped yet. Just curious though. I searched for my old email from when I ordered my 1500d but didn't see it.

No not all the time, I ordered a pair of Neo-Pro 8"s on Thursday and havent received a tracking number yet. But the shipping time is usually fast once its shipped.

[altoncustomtech 773]

It's already on a relay. The pressure switch has one built in. Basically I already have it wired the way you posted. Pin 86 is what's on the radio ACC circuit. Not new to relays at all.

But thanks for the help.

:edit:

ok just tested the LED for power and its getting .73 volts....if i recall correctly it should be 1.5 volts.

And i didnt mention this earlier but the click noise only happens when the pressure switch itself switches the relay off....if i manually switch it no noise is heard. also i changed the location where the "remote" wire gets power for the compressor and that didnt change anything...its like its going throughout the whole system from the battery might just get a new pressure switch....but not going to whore this thread about that. i can troubleshoot a little further to be honest.

It sounds as though you may be getting coil collapse feedback. When a coil is energized it creates a magnetic field which pulls in the switch (duh right?). What happens when you take power off the coil though is that the magnetic field collapses and causes a momentary reverse current that can cause problems. In Industrial applications when you have panels full of other relays that can be particularly bad as it can cause the other relays to "chatter" and possibly pull them in momentarily causing all kinds of unknown mayhem. We alleviate that problem by installing diodes across the coil terminals on the relays. That diode is installed wrong on purpose as well and what that does is not allow current to flow through the diode when the relay is powered (that would create a short and isn't good) but when power to the coil is dropped that slight reverse current flows through the diode and is dissipated.

Not completely sure that's your problem, but diodes are cheap and it's an easy fix to try. I can snap a pic of one of our control cabinets here at work to show you an example.

Diodes like this one.

[Beandip 3]

Thanks a ton! I figured it was some type of feedback but I think the pressure switch has something to do with it. Like I said it won't happen when I switch off the current to pin 86, the remote turn on wire. Only when the system reaches it's max pressure and the pressure switch turns off.

I did buy a diode from radio shack but I wired it inline on pin 86 basically.

How do you suggest I wire the diode?

Also I can get a video of what's going on if you guys want. Again thanks for the suggestion!

[altoncustomtech 773]

The diode wires between pins 85 & 86, but with the negative side on the positive. It has to be wired backwards like that in order to work properly as I explained above. It doesn't hurt the diode because it takes something like 500 or 1000 volts to reverse flow one of those diodes.

When you say it doesn't happen when you turn off the current to the remote wire, how are you doing this? disconnecting the wire or turning off the key or what?

[Beandip 3]

I have a toggle Under the dash. The remote hooks into the radio ACC circuit and the toggle just interups the circuit going to the relay.

I don't want the compressor to run while the truck is off since the horns are wired to my alarm.

Edited July 6, 2011 by beandip

[altoncustomtech 773]

So... When you turn off the toggle switch there's no noise, but when the compressor pressure switch is turning it off and on you hear the noise, correct?

And, you have the diode wired as I described, basically backwards in the circuit?

Also, exactly where in the scheme of the wiring is the toggle switch?

[Beandip 3]

You are correct in your first paragraph.

I wired the diode inline on the remote, I have not yet tried to do it the way you described yet.

On the wiring scheme.

Direct wire to battery

Direct ground to frame

Remote turn on to radio ACC circuit and the toggle is 2 ft before it ties into the radio ACC circuit. Everything is soldered.

Going to wire the remote directly to the battery and see what happens. If the noise is still happening then that interference might travel up the main power wire, jump to my 1/0 stereo wire that is ran in close proximity to the frame, go though the amp, and then up to the rcas to the HU.

Now that I think about it it's obvious what's the cause. The remote. It doesn't happen with the toggle switch because that breaks the circuit so the interference can't travel back. But when the pressure switch is killing the circuit it does because the switch is closed allowing the interference to travel to the radio.

Edited July 6, 2011 by beandip

[altoncustomtech 773]

You are correct in your first paragraph.

I wired the diode inline on the remote, I have not yet tried to do it the way you described yet.

On the wiring scheme.

Direct wire to battery

Direct ground to frame

Remote turn on to radio ACC circuit and the toggle is 2 ft before it ties into the radio ACC circuit. Everything is soldered.

Going to wire the remote directly to the battery and see what happens. If the noise is still happening then that interference might travel up the main power wire, jump to my 1/0 stereo wire that is ran in close proximity to the frame, go though the amp, and then up to the rcas to the HU.

Now that I think about it it's obvious what's the cause. The remote. It doesn't happen with the toggle switch because that breaks the circuit so the interference can't travel back. But when the pressure switch is killing the circuit it does because the switch is closed allowing the interference to travel to the radio.

That was my point in asking how it was wired. Glad to see you saw where I was going with all the questions!

Wiring the diode as I described should do the trick, but it could be much better to wire it to an accessory wire off the key and keep it away from the HU altogether.

[Beandip 3]

Well just wired it directly to the battery. Used some jumper cables as temp wire but the click is still there. NOW I'm confused lol.

Going to try to wire that diode in next.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Remember to wire the diode in backwards, put the negative lead on the positive terminal and the positive lead on the negative terminal or you'll blow a fuse or smoke the diode.

[Beandip 3]

So the line on the diode facing towards the ground correct?

[altoncustomtech 773]

The line on the diode indicates it's negative lead, much like an electrolytic capacitor is marked. The line goes to the positive. If you install the diode with the line to ground it will either pop a fuse or blow up the diode.

I'll take a picture of a control cabinet here with the diodes installed in it.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Hopefully everything is visible enough in the pictures....

Here's the whole cabinet.

Here's a close up of a couple of the diodes and the relays. If you look closely you can see where the lined side of the diode is going to the RED positive wire (numbered 202 & 154) and the other side goes up to the BLACK negative wire (numbered 204, 203 and 155). Every relay has it's own diode.

[Beandip 3]

Thanks for the pics man. I'll try that later. Currently....

Since the amp is so tall I am going to have to mount it on the box. It's a sealed box and on the side should be very sturdy with no flex. Not too happy about doing it this way but if I mount the amp above the other one I can't recline the passenger seat much.

Edited July 8, 2011 by beandip

[Beandip 3]

So...I installed my amp...got it hooked up...turn on the truck....HORRIBLE alternator whine.... so i grounded the RCA cables on the HU and bam its fixed(pioneer HU btw)...

so then i went ahead and tested my components. well i turned up the volume and BAM my Fi Q just died . i tested each connection with a DMM until i took out the sub and well i lost a coil...i have no clue what happened...the sub is going on 3 years old now and i know how that sub acts by heart. i know i wasnt pushing it too hard and i was at 2 ohm on my saz-1500d.

but prior to this, when i had that alt whine, i the sub did "pop" when the key was turned off since there was a feedback of some sort (you guys should know what i am talking about) but that only happened 3 times until i fixed the ground issue with the RCA... that might have been the last straw if a connection or lead was getting worn out. Sub lived a good life playing all sorts of music and abuse. i suppose i should order a recone kit, but never done one before and kinda worried about getting the coil centered.

anyways grounding out the RCA cables DID solve my compressor feedback problem...so i guess thats a plus.

pic of said fix. i grounded the sub and the front RCAs. kinda feels ghetto but it did solve the issue....

Edited July 9, 2011 by beandip

[altoncustomtech 773]

Dude that sucks about the Q, but like you said at 3 yrs old it's hard to say for certain how much anything was worn or exactly what may have happened with it yet.

I think you could handle the recone on your own. Some people use plastic shims, other's use note cards inside the coil gap around the pole to center the coil. It doesn't matter much what you use as long as it doesn't leave any part of it behind in the gap and holds the coil centered with even amounts of it around the gap. The rest is just gluing and making sure the glue job is a good one. Otherwise you can always send it in to Fi and have them to recone it.

I'm really glad you found the issue with the noise. While coil feedback was a possibility, I thought it was odd it was making noise in the radio.