Stupid question...

[Beandip 3]

Yeah good old pioneer deck.

but when the sub was working my focal K2s were keeping up with it beautifully! Really on the recone i am not sure how to scrape off the glue or the exact procedure on how much tolerance the coil gap has. if i can use note cards well that seems easy enough.

I did hear a slight and faint "rubbing" sound but really i bet it was the lead breaking/making contact until it finally broke. i heard this at super low volume like 1/8" sub movement but ignored it and turned it up then nothing. the amp didnt even go into protect since it was just like removing a speaker wire...

really noob question but grounding the sub RCA and the front channel amp on the same "ground" cant be the cause of the problem right? i say to myself NO thats stupid wtf are you thinking but i'd rather ask a stupid question than to not ask one.

oh and i suppose i can post these pics. excuse the welds lol, it was back when i was starting to learn and had thin gloves that would get too hot so i had to start/stop. anyways.

Soldered my ground with a touch of heat shrink.

Dash all torn apart, i am glad its only 7 screws to take that off.

I ended up mounting the amp to the box....i really dont like doing this, but i couldnt make the amp rack because the passenger seat would hit the amp if you even slightly recline it so i had to put it on the box.

No pics of the finished product though, it was too dark in my garage, tint doesnt help even with good shop lights.

Edited July 9, 2011 by beandip

[altoncustomtech 773]

On your question about the grounds, grounds are grounds. In the audio realm if it is to be grounded then it's best the equipment is grounded at the same point.

The rubbing sound was most likely exactly what you think it was, the lead coming off. I like the build and while you didn't have much of a choice on the amp mounting perhaps you can get a creative impulse and figure something out.

You can use a putty knife, pocket knife or a razor blade to clean off the glue, some contact cleaner or mineral spirits will help cut some of the adhesive too.

[Beandip 3]

Sweet thanks for the info man. And I will probably ask nick where he thinks the lead broke. If it's inside the dust cap then for sure I will try to solder the break. Just depends though. It's a shot in the dark but with a try. Either it's fixed or stays the way it is until the re-cone comes in.

If anything I'm pissed it broke over something stupid like a couple of feedback pops. I would understand if it broke while doing a 20 hz cup trick or something but just seems silly how it's life ended.

Edited July 9, 2011 by beandip

[altoncustomtech 773]

Sweet thanks for the info man. And I will probably ask nick where he thinks the lead broke. If it's inside the dust cap then for sure I will try to solder the break. Just depends though. It's a shot in the dark but with a try. Either it's fixed or stays the way it is until the re-cone comes in.

If anything I'm pissed it broke over something stupid like a couple of feedback pops. I would understand if it broke while doing a 20 hz cup trick or something but just seems silly how it's life ended.

Look at it this way, it will likely need reconed anyway, I wouldn't hesitiate to go poking and prodding around on it and seeing if it could be temporarily repaired.

I wouldn't be real pissed, look at it like this. It's 3 yrs old and a subwoofer which sees a fair amount of mechanical movement on a regular basis and is therefore going to be susceptible to mechanical failure. After 3 yrs of regular use one of the most moved parts of the assembly finally gave out and could even have had a small imperfection (sorry guys, but it can happen) that helped it too. It's nothing to be happy about, but it's not something that can't be completely unexpected. One good way to look at it is that when you're done reconing it the sub will be just like brand new! lol

[Beandip 3]

Yeah I'm over it now but just saying at that moment I was disappointed how it failed "easily". I did however think about the moving parts. Who knows how many times that sub has cycled.

[Beandip 3]

wow i forgot to post the completed picture! first, i solved the pop noise i was having with the 125.2 amp. basically i had the remote wire daisy chained and yeah i know i should use a relay but for 2 amps i think i can do it (hardly any draw). anyways, i turn the key on, component amp turns on first, then the sub shortly after. when i turned it off, the sub amp stayed on longer than it usually does, basically the 125.2 was keeping the remote wire alive and kept the sub amp on, then when the sub amp turned off it still made a slight 2 volt pop.

what i did was wire a diode in line between the sub amp and the component amp. now power cant flow back though the remote wire! now when the key is turned off, the sub amp instantly shuts down like it used to and the 125.2 LED just fades away quickly. problem solved

as promised, the finished pic. i would mount the 125.2 on the other side of the false floor, but i store crap there, like that blue coil is my airline to air up tires, or use air tools (short period of time) and with me having onboard air it would be pointless not to have it.

sub still beats pretty good with only one coil @ 1 ohm lol. Going to order a recone but for now the Q still has life until the parts come in. the analog volt meter is to monitor sub voltage. once i set the gain by ear and ran a sweep tone you can basically get the most out of your sub no matter how high/low your source signal is.

Edited July 11, 2011 by beandip