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bakedboy08@yahoo.com

Deciding on new subs.

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lol... are you commenting on his english there or something else??? :peepwall:

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lol... are you commenting on his english there or something else??? :peepwall:

Nah, im commenting on the "well, i never really heard them, but im sure you can get the same for less"

Shit makes no sense.

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lol... are you commenting on his english there or something else??? :peepwall:

Nah, im commenting on the "well, i never really heard them, but im sure you can get the same for less"

Shit makes no sense.

Well that is absolutly true, jl does overprice there stuff quite a bit, i used to run a 12w7 in a 2cuft ported box with 1300 watts going to it and it did sound very good and hit lows like a mother, but im sure the Fi Q does the same thing for half the price and many other subs. W7 is a great sub but it would be alot better if it were like 300-400 bucks. Yes i will never have anyone do work on my stereo again unless its me :D. really starting to take to the BL, just needa see if it hits the lows like i like because i LOVE my lows :)

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make sure you set you lpf no higher than 80hz... ssf should be around 0-3hz below tuning... and gain should be set appropriately.. no like half way type deal...

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Yes i have my lpf turned all the way up on amp and have my headunit set at 80hz, my subsonic filter is set to 30 and box is tuned to 33hz, the gain is half way up but it does sound really good, could prob go a lil more up but i dont like to set things right on the edge of not being safe

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lol.... nice .... should be a MUCH different sound....

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JL products can cost a little extra money, but they certainly aren't bad products. Resale value is often overlooked as well. Its really easy to sell a JL sub and you wont loose near as much money on it as you would on something else generally speaking. Anyway I have a BL and in the right box they should sound fine. You haven't said what it is you listen to, but overall I'm happy with how mine sounds. Its not a SQ woofer by any means, but for my tastes it sounds fine.

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Yes i have my lpf turned all the way up on amp and have my headunit set at 80hz, my subsonic filter is set to 30 and box is tuned to 33hz, the gain is half way up but it does sound really good, could prob go a lil more up but i dont like to set things right on the edge of not being safe

There would be no reason to set it much higher because the difference in output would be inaudible

Edited by theluker69

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lol.... nice .... should be a MUCH different sound....

Lol yes it actually sounds like a real subwoofer now without it being on input slave hahaha, just wish i could see if my gain is anywhere near where it should be but for now its pretty damn loud :)

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easiest rule of thumb would be the DMM method....

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easiest rule of thumb would be the DMM method....

if i use a dmm what kinda numbers am i looking for, i know to turn h/u volume to 3/4 and then slowly turn gain up but when do i know when to stop with the dmm

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easiest rule of thumb would be the DMM method....

if i use a dmm what kinda numbers am i looking for, i know to turn h/u volume to 3/4 and then slowly turn gain up but when do i know when to stop with the dmm

Read this thread. It's mentioned why there is no point in setting your gains to the very edge. You wont be able to hear the difference in output unless you currently have it very low. There's a thread on how to set gains in the amplifier section here if that is how your really want to do it.

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ok so it says times the rms of amp output by the speaker impedence. i have a dual 1 ohm sub thats wired at 2 ohms. so do i do 1200watts x 1ohm or 2ohms?

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Dual 1 : so your amp sees a 2 Ohms load. 1200 x 2.

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ok cool thanks thats what i thought, going to get the gain set up tonight and then it will be all tuned in and ready to listen too finally after 2 months lol

Ok so it would be 2400 then find the square root of that which is about 47, so when i hook up my dmm keep all setting how i will have them turn h/u 3/4 then slowly turn gain up until i see about 47, thinking maybe put it at 45-46 to be on the safe side? Trying to keep my equipment for a good time without it blowing up

Edited by bakedboy08

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If you are using an amplifier that has an RMS rating of more than your speaker(s) can handle/rated for, then use the RMS rating of the speaker (instead of the RMS of the amplifier) to determine the voltage to set your amp to. This is also referred to as gaining down.

You would want to use the rating of the BL which is 1000W rather than the amp fyi

Edited by theluker69

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i have thought of that but i have all the options for the bl so the power handling is probably increased a little bit. I am really taking to my bl now that it is working properly, thinking once i get the funds to get a h.o alt im going to add another bl to my setup :)

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Remember when I said a few hundred watts isn't going to make an audible difference? Same goes for guessing that your bl is 1200. Why risk it? Output won't be any difference unless you plan on competing and want to score a little higher on the meter. Anyway glad you like your BL. I like mine too lol

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Yea thats true a couple hundred wouldnt really matter to the ear, may be better to just do the 1000 x 2, I had a question about an alt also, right now i have a 70a alt on my 05 honda civic which is puny! im planning on getting a 180a dc power alt and was wondering, when i order one do i need anything else? does the alt come with everything you need to assemble, or do i need a belt, pully, any brackets? the 180 is the biggest dc makes for my car and i hope it will function properly in my little civic

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I've never had an HO alternator nor do I have plans to build a system requiring one, but from what I've read DC seems to be the way to go. Check out their section if you have questions someone else can help you out. What is this alternator meant for? If your keeping your BL on that AQ pushing 1200W you might want to try an extra battery before you get a new alternator. Have you monitored your voltage?

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Before buying an alternator just watch your voltage. It may/may not be necessary. You will be stressing your charging system pretty extreme, but you should make the decision on a voltage drop not a I think I need.

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lol... are you commenting on his english there or something else??? :peepwall:

Nah, im commenting on the "well, i never really heard them, but im sure you can get the same for less"

Shit makes no sense.

You not reading makes no sense.

I said I haven't heard a w7 in depth. I didn't say I've never heard one. Meaning I've never spent a good while listening to one. Seeing exactly what I thought it sounded like.

I've heard other people with them, just these was short demos. So understand what somebody is saying before you bash.

I figured "in depth" would key what I was meaning but guess not.

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Yes i bought a cig lighter volt meter and when my car is at idle it stays inbetween 12.7-13.2, when im dringing it will go up to 14v but no higher, its weird cuz when i turn on the ac it drops almost half a volt but when im playing my system at full tilt it doesnt drop at all, maybe its not accurate but idk, still not the voltage i want cuz when i stop at a light or something it will go down to 13v. I have a 70a alt which is very small and i just dont want to destroy it

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Yes i bought a cig lighter volt meter and when my car is at idle it stays inbetween 12.7-13.2, when im dringing it will go up to 14v but no higher, its weird cuz when i turn on the ac it drops almost half a volt but when im playing my system at full tilt it doesnt drop at all, maybe its not accurate but idk, still not the voltage i want cuz when i stop at a light or something it will go down to 13v. I have a 70a alt which is very small and i just dont want to destroy it

I wouldn't trust a voltmeter that plugs into your cigarette lighter. Have you tried a DMM

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