advise on a battery

[Firk-eze 0]

So I'm looking for a battery ( one 12v ) to run my two Sundown amps (100.4 and saz1000d) and still be able to keep my Dodge Ram functional .

Alil advise on what brand and model should i buy for what I'm running? i guess anything down the lines like XSpower, Kinetik, Stinger etc.......

thanx

[Tremonic 7]

Stay away from Kinetik, Stinger is pretty good, XS is better. Then you have NSB's and also Dekas both of which are solid batts and cost less.

[Shogen 325]

Stay away from Kinetik, Stinger is pretty good, XS is better. Then you have NSB's and also Dekas both of which are solid batts and cost less.

I'm more than willing to listen but not without support... Any reason for staying away from Kinetik? I've got a HC1800 under the hood and it has provided me adequate support for my system... Have you had a bad experience??? Please share...

OP.... I'd def say XS Power may be above Kinetik but there is no reason to disregard them... XS Power would be the most expensive but with good reason.. Check out the manufacturer's section HERE ...

There are alot of "which battery should I get" threads around.. SO please search so you can be more informed than "don't buy this, or stay away from that" crap advice...

[Tremonic 7]

Stay away from Kinetik, Stinger is pretty good, XS is better. Then you have NSB's and also Dekas both of which are solid batts and cost less.

I'm more than willing to listen but not without support... Any reason for staying away from Kinetik? I've got a HC1800 under the hood and it has provided me adequate support for my system... Have you had a bad experience??? Please share...

There are alot of "which battery should I get" threads around.. SO please search so you can be more informed than "don't buy this, or stay away from that" crap advice...

Because I have seen Kinetiks fail under less than brutal conditions. I have also seen what would be considered major gains (for only doing this one small thing) from simply switching batteries from Kinetik to XS or NSB batts. It's just my experiences with them. I'm not trashing the company, they make some decently strong batts. Just saying that there is a lot better out there. And as far as your comment on my advice, he asked for it. If he wanted to do the research and look around like most of us do then he wouldn't be on here asking such a simple question. So, that being said, I will still say "stay away from Kinetik" and go with one of the other brands.

[edouble101 314]

I use XS Power batteries. Imo they are the best in the business. Your stock battery is probably fairly large. You should be fine by replacing it with a similiar group number XS Power battery. Contact Nathan at XS Power he wil help you with selecting a factory replacement.

And if you haven't the "big 3" is beneficial.

[Shogen 325]

Stay away from Kinetik, Stinger is pretty good, XS is better. Then you have NSB's and also Dekas both of which are solid batts and cost less.

I'm more than willing to listen but not without support... Any reason for staying away from Kinetik? I've got a HC1800 under the hood and it has provided me adequate support for my system... Have you had a bad experience??? Please share...

There are alot of "which battery should I get" threads around.. SO please search so you can be more informed than "don't buy this, or stay away from that" crap advice...

Because I have seen Kinetiks fail under less than brutal conditions. I have also seen what would be considered major gains (for only doing this one small thing) from simply switching batteries from Kinetik to XS or NSB batts. It's just my experiences with them. I'm not trashing the company, they make some decently strong batts. Just saying that there is a lot better out there. And as far as your comment on my advice, he asked for it. If he wanted to do the research and look around like most of us do then he wouldn't be on here asking such a simple question. So, that being said, I will still say "stay away from Kinetik" and go with one of the other brands.

Wasn't that better than just saying stay away from said company??? I know I'd just pass your information had you not supported it... just saying... it's crap if you don't give more

[Tremonic 7]

Stay away from Kinetik, Stinger is pretty good, XS is better. Then you have NSB's and also Dekas both of which are solid batts and cost less.

I'm more than willing to listen but not without support... Any reason for staying away from Kinetik? I've got a HC1800 under the hood and it has provided me adequate support for my system... Have you had a bad experience??? Please share...

There are alot of "which battery should I get" threads around.. SO please search so you can be more informed than "don't buy this, or stay away from that" crap advice...

Because I have seen Kinetiks fail under less than brutal conditions. I have also seen what would be considered major gains (for only doing this one small thing) from simply switching batteries from Kinetik to XS or NSB batts. It's just my experiences with them. I'm not trashing the company, they make some decently strong batts. Just saying that there is a lot better out there. And as far as your comment on my advice, he asked for it. If he wanted to do the research and look around like most of us do then he wouldn't be on here asking such a simple question. So, that being said, I will still say "stay away from Kinetik" and go with one of the other brands.

Wasn't that better than just saying stay away from said company??? I know I'd just pass your information had you not supported it... just saying... it's crap if you don't give more

I agree. I should have supported it in the first place and I usually do. At the time that I made that post I had several things going on so I didn't elaborate. I said that because I knew in my head what the deal was. So anyways, sorry OP to jack up your thread here. Onward and upward.

[Shogen 325]

I haven;t had this bad experience from Kinetik as of yet... I bought a HC800 to install in the rear near the amps but never got around to installing it or even opening the package... Took it to PepBoys for a test and was claimed dead with 12.56v. I am in the process of charging it hopefully back to life ..

So far after an overnight charge I am getting 12.9v after 10-15min rest after being unhooked from my new ctek charger....

[Tremonic 7]

I haven;t had this bad experience from Kinetik as of yet... I bought a HC800 to install in the rear near the amps but never got around to installing it or even opening the package... Took it to PepBoys for a test and was claimed dead with 12.56v. I am in the process of charging it hopefully back to life ..

So far after an overnight charge I am getting 12.9v after 10-15min rest after being unhooked from my new ctek charger....

Claimed dead at 12.56V? That's not dead by any means. That battery will be fine especially if your holding at 12.9 after a bit of a rest. Your good to go.

[Shogen 325]

I haven;t had this bad experience from Kinetik as of yet... I bought a HC800 to install in the rear near the amps but never got around to installing it or even opening the package... Took it to PepBoys for a test and was claimed dead with 12.56v. I am in the process of charging it hopefully back to life ..

So far after an overnight charge I am getting 12.9v after 10-15min rest after being unhooked from my new ctek charger....

Claimed dead at 12.56V? That's not dead by any means. That battery will be fine especially if your holding at 12.9 after a bit of a rest. Your good to go.

I think it was the CCA part of the test that mainly failed it.. They put the battery as 800CCA but when I contacted Kinetik they said these batteries are not intended for those ratings since it has a whole different purpose?? I'm more inclined to believe the manufacturer as I see no reason for them to make this up...

CS from Kinetik has been great... They responded to my email within an hour both times. The guy I've dealt with is David Lengacher... Amazingly helpful.. I'm thinking he is receiving email on his BB or something cuz it was damn quick at 9am !!!

:drink40:

[Tremonic 7]

I haven;t had this bad experience from Kinetik as of yet... I bought a HC800 to install in the rear near the amps but never got around to installing it or even opening the package... Took it to PepBoys for a test and was claimed dead with 12.56v. I am in the process of charging it hopefully back to life ..

So far after an overnight charge I am getting 12.9v after 10-15min rest after being unhooked from my new ctek charger....

Claimed dead at 12.56V? That's not dead by any means. That battery will be fine especially if your holding at 12.9 after a bit of a rest. Your good to go.

I think it was the CCA part of the test that mainly failed it.. They put the battery as 800CCA but when I contacted Kinetik they said these batteries are not intended for those ratings since it has a whole different purpose?? I'm more inclined to believe the manufacturer as I see no reason for them to make this up...

CS from Kinetik has been great... They responded to my email within an hour both times. The guy I've dealt with is David Lengacher... Amazingly helpful.. I'm thinking he is receiving email on his BB or something cuz it was damn quick at 9am !!!

:drink40:

Yes CCA in this application means nothing. It's the rating of the amperage that a batt can deliver from 0 - 30 degrees for 30 seconds before it drops below I believe 10.2 volts. The AH is the most important rating to look at when dealing with this app. If a batt has a 100AH rating then that means it can deliver 5amps for 20 hours or 25amps for 4 hours or in our app it's more like 100 amps for one hour (you can break it down further going into minutes). Basically how much it can burst. It's good to hear that the CS is that good. Gains a little bit of respect from me for that company.

[audiolife 14]

A CA or a CCA test is a 30 second test where the voltage drop is allowed down to 7.2 volts not 10.2 volts. To a lead acid battery leaving it in an undercharged state is bad. Doesn't have to be under heavy stress to go bad, you can kill a battery permanently by leaving it installed in a stored car with no charger or by simply not paying attention to the state of charge on the battery. Leave it low in hot conditions the discharged portion of the battery will gradually start becoming an insulator more quickly to the point it becomes a permanent insulator. That is called sulfation and is how the vast majority of batteries die (new battery or old). Problem is unlike a lap top or a cell phone, a car usually has no indication system other than "hey my lights are dimming alot worse or my car won't start". By then it can be too late if left ignored. State of charge is measured with the car off and no charger. It takes at least 3 hours for the surface charge from an alternator or charger to leave the battery/batteries and that is when it should be measured. Also another way a secondary battery dies is when the back battery has a bad ground. A battery with a bad ground will not charge properly. One last thing, don't allow an alternator to recharge a dead battery or a battery that has been deeply discharged. An alternator is more or less a bulk maintainer and can get damaged due to heat trying to charge up a dead battery that is not accepting much if any of a charge.

If you want a good inexpensive way to tell the condition of your battery a http://smartercharger.com/accessories/#comfort-connect-indicator-eyelet is a good way to tell. The way I use mine is in the morning I just pop the hood before I ever start my vehicle and look at the lights. When used with a Ctek charger you do not need alligator clips as the charge end will plug into the charge indicator. They also have a panel you can mount inside the vehicle, just check the light before you start the car. Green all is good, yellow lets you know you either need to do some serious driving or put it on a charger and red means put it on a charger/may be too late. Measuring while your car is on is totally different than what I am talking about. This is measuring what is in the tank before you ever turn on the system or car. Some will argue that a "bad battery" can have a high voltage, which is true BUT it would get to that condition much sooner by allowing it to get into the conditions that allow it to go bad to begin with.

[Tremonic 7]

A CA or a CCA test is a 30 second test where the voltage drop is allowed down to 7.2 volts not 10.2 volts. To a lead acid battery leaving it in an undercharged state is bad. Doesn't have to be under heavy stress to go bad, you can kill a battery permanently by leaving it installed in a stored car with no charger or by simply not paying attention to the state of charge on the battery. Leave it low in hot conditions the discharged portion of the battery will gradually start becoming an insulator more quickly to the point it becomes a permanent insulator. That is called sulfation and is how the vast majority of batteries die (new battery or old). Problem is unlike a lap top or a cell phone, a car usually has no indication system other than "hey my lights are dimming alot worse or my car won't start". By then it can be too late if left ignored. State of charge is measured with the car off and no charger. It takes at least 3 hours for the surface charge from an alternator or charger to leave the battery/batteries and that is when it should be measured. Also another way a secondary battery dies is when the back battery has a bad ground. A battery with a bad ground will not charge properly. One last thing, don't allow an alternator to recharge a dead battery or a battery that has been deeply discharged. An alternator is more or less a bulk maintainer and can get damaged due to heat trying to charge up a dead battery that is not accepting much if any of a charge.

If you want a good inexpensive way to tell the condition of your battery a http://smartercharger.com/accessories/#comfort-connect-indicator-eyelet is a good way to tell. The way I use mine is in the morning I just pop the hood before I ever start my vehicle and look at the lights. When used with a Ctek charger you do not need alligator clips as the charge end will plug into the charge indicator. They also have a panel you can mount inside the vehicle, just check the light before you start the car. Green all is good, yellow lets you know you either need to do some serious driving or put it on a charger and red means put it on a charger/may be too late. Measuring while your car is on is totally different than what I am talking about. This is measuring what is in the tank before you ever turn on the system or car. Some will argue that a "bad battery" can have a high voltage, which is true BUT it would get to that condition much sooner by allowing it to get into the conditions that allow it to go bad to begin with.

Yes basically the point was that CCA ratings have nothing to do with the battery he was talking about in the application he was using it for. And he was reading 12.56 volts at rest after it had sat for a while so no issues there either.

[audiolife 14]

A CA or a CCA test is a 30 second test where the voltage drop is allowed down to 7.2 volts not 10.2 volts. To a lead acid battery leaving it in an undercharged state is bad. Doesn't have to be under heavy stress to go bad, you can kill a battery permanently by leaving it installed in a stored car with no charger or by simply not paying attention to the state of charge on the battery. Leave it low in hot conditions the discharged portion of the battery will gradually start becoming an insulator more quickly to the point it becomes a permanent insulator. That is called sulfation and is how the vast majority of batteries die (new battery or old). Problem is unlike a lap top or a cell phone, a car usually has no indication system other than "hey my lights are dimming alot worse or my car won't start". By then it can be too late if left ignored. State of charge is measured with the car off and no charger. It takes at least 3 hours for the surface charge from an alternator or charger to leave the battery/batteries and that is when it should be measured. Also another way a secondary battery dies is when the back battery has a bad ground. A battery with a bad ground will not charge properly. One last thing, don't allow an alternator to recharge a dead battery or a battery that has been deeply discharged. An alternator is more or less a bulk maintainer and can get damaged due to heat trying to charge up a dead battery that is not accepting much if any of a charge.

If you want a good inexpensive way to tell the condition of your battery a http://smartercharger.com/accessories/#comfort-connect-indicator-eyelet is a good way to tell. The way I use mine is in the morning I just pop the hood before I ever start my vehicle and look at the lights. When used with a Ctek charger you do not need alligator clips as the charge end will plug into the charge indicator. They also have a panel you can mount inside the vehicle, just check the light before you start the car. Green all is good, yellow lets you know you either need to do some serious driving or put it on a charger and red means put it on a charger/may be too late. Measuring while your car is on is totally different than what I am talking about. This is measuring what is in the tank before you ever turn on the system or car. Some will argue that a "bad battery" can have a high voltage, which is true BUT it would get to that condition much sooner by allowing it to get into the conditions that allow it to go bad to begin with.

Yes basically the point was that CCA ratings have nothing to do with the battery he was talking about in the application he was using it for. And he was reading 12.56 volts at rest after it had sat for a while so no issues there either.

If you leave the battery sit it will become stagnant and need "woke up" also letting it sit at 12.56 volts isn't doing it any favors. I have cells I charged in November that are resting in the 12.75 range. I know it doesn't seem like a big difference .2 volts but when a cell discharges it sulfates and can indeed weaken the battery. There is only 1 time in a batteries life that it is at 100% and that is right after it is made. Only other times the battery is not discharging is when its on float or getting a charge. Batteries will self discharge and a small load left on them can greatly speed up the discharge process. When you buy a battery it is a perishable good and keeping it charged up to as close to a full charge as much as possible without over charging it is the key.

[Impious 1,476]

The guy I've dealt with is David Lengacher... Amazingly helpful.. I'm thinking he is receiving email on his BB or something cuz it was damn quick at 9am !!!

Dave is amish, he wouldn't even know what a BB was. Heck, he has to go out to his barn to get internet access.

I kid, I kid.

Anyways, I would disagree with the previous poster to stay away from Kinetik. They are high quality well performing batteries.

[Shogen 325]

The guy I've dealt with is David Lengacher... Amazingly helpful.. I'm thinking he is receiving email on his BB or something cuz it was damn quick at 9am !!!

Dave is amish, he wouldn't even know what a BB was. Heck, he has to go out to his barn to get internet access.

I kid, I kid.

Anyways, I would disagree with the previous poster to stay away from Kinetik. They are high quality well performing batteries.

you in a silly mood this morning?lol

[Tremonic 7]

I gotcha man. I'm not trying to say your wrong here. I know how they work and how they can get screwed up. He charged (as you said "woke up")his battery and it was resting at 12.9 after a while of resting. I was telling him that he was good to go. If it had been resting at 10V it would have been a different story, we all know that. Your info is good, I'm just saying that in this situation he doesn't have any issues.

[Tremonic 7]

Anyways, I would disagree with the previous poster to stay away from Kinetik. They are high quality well performing batteries.

I only speak from what I have seen. As I said before they make some decently strong batts. I have just seen failures from them as well as much better performance from other brands.

[Impious 1,476]

I only speak from what I have seen. As I said before they make some decently strong batts. I have just seen failures from them as well as much better performance from other brands.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion.

Have some Kinetik's failed? Sure. Every battery brand has failures. XS batteries have failed. NSB batteries have failed. Having not seen every battery failure from every company and the conditions of every failure, and the overall failure rates from every battery company, etc etc, I think we can both agree that it's possible for your perspective to be a bit skewed by your limited personal experiences (limited compared to the total number of battery sales and failures, etc etc).

Are Kinetik's the best competition battery? I honestly have no idea. From the brief outline of the OP's system, it would appear less of a comp system and more of a daily beater. Being better in the lanes does not make a battery the best in every circumstance. There will be different requirements for a comp battery compared to a daily driving battery. However, Kinetik has been used successfully in multiple competition systems and has a couple 180db titles under their belt.

[Impious 1,476]

The guy I've dealt with is David Lengacher... Amazingly helpful.. I'm thinking he is receiving email on his BB or something cuz it was damn quick at 9am !!!

Dave is amish, he wouldn't even know what a BB was. Heck, he has to go out to his barn to get internet access.

I kid, I kid.

Anyways, I would disagree with the previous poster to stay away from Kinetik. They are high quality well performing batteries.

you in a silly mood this morning?lol

Nope, I just tell it like it is

Inside joke.

[Tremonic 7]

I only speak from what I have seen. As I said before they make some decently strong batts. I have just seen failures from them as well as much better performance from other brands.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion.

Have some Kinetik's failed? Sure. Every battery brand has failures. XS batteries have failed. NSB batteries have failed. Having not seen every battery failure from every company and the conditions of every failure, and the overall failure rates from every battery company, etc etc, I think we can both agree that it's possible for your perspective to be a bit skewed by your limited personal experiences (limited compared to the total number of battery sales and failures, etc etc).

Are Kinetik's the best competition battery? I honestly have no idea. From the brief outline of the OP's system, it would appear less of a comp system and more of a daily beater. Being better in the lanes does not make a battery the best in every circumstance. There will be different requirements for a comp battery compared to a daily driving battery. However, Kinetik has been used successfully in multiple competition systems and has a couple 180db titles under their belt.

I totally agree. Everyone is going to have their own opinions and I am just one amongst many. Yes every battery company will have failures. Hell every company in the world across all different types of products is going to have failures. It's the nature of the beast. I am again just speaking from my experience and voicing my opinion and the way I feel personally is that in the world of batts these days (for our application) they are a bit lower on the list. I'm not bashing them and I know they have been in some crazy loud cars and I have respect for that and for them as a company. I just maintain a certain standpoint as you do. But as you said these standpoints are based on our limited personal experiences.