Look what DC Power sent me

[Shogen 325]

Good to hear you guys are running 4~5k with no issues. Sound like a have a voltage gremlin that I need to kick out lol.

How many runs of 1/0 and batteries do you guys have?

[Tremonic 7]

Here's my build log from the other forum. Towards the end of it there's a video showing the voltage at both 1500 rpms and at idle (with the system at full tilt). Feel free to make fun of my country ass accent lol. But it's a good example of what these alts can put out.

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/build-logs/71046-tremonics-build-log.html

[ssh 924]

I ran a saz1500d with a 270xp and no additional batteries, at full tilt at idle, voltage was mid 14.

Hope you get it figured out Edouble

[edouble101 314]

Here's my build log from the other forum. Towards the end of it there's a video showing the voltage at both 1500 rpms and at idle (with the system at full tilt). Feel free to make fun of my country ass accent lol. But it's a good example of what these alts can put out.

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/build-logs/71046-tremonics-build-log.html

I wasnt able to view your video because of forum rules with post count and blah blah, but I believe you.

After changing some things around I have better voltage

After an hour of testing with my dvm I wasnt able to come to conclusion as to why my voltage was dropping. But I did change some things around and voltage is better. I also replaced all my cheap 300a anl fuses with Kicker 300a fuses. Most songs voltage is 14.3-14.8 while driving, rpms +2k. At isle voltage falls to 13 flat. A couple songs, which maybe clipped in recording, voltage falls to 13's.

Previous connections under hood

I found some loose bolt connections on both the XS Power i-bar (this is the second set I had issuers with) and on the battery post terminal

New front battery connections (I use dielectric grease on the copper fittings thats why they look gray).

I also added a negative run from alt to battery. This made the biggest difference. It appears that there is a protective coating on the alternator case. On the case itself I was not able to get a resistance reading to - battery post. On a bolt going through case I was able to get a resistance measurement.

Here is the rear connections. Battery is in spare tire well. All connections made on one post on battery (no i-bar)

Voltage is much better. On average 14's. Anybody have any ideas how I could make it more consistent 14's? I do not want to add another + and - run to the rear but I think that is all I have left to do I am just worried now that 0.5ohm will be too much. Only one way to find out.....

[djjdnap 78]

add another batt

[Tremonic 7]

Glad to see your getting it worked out man. Nice looking wiring also. Good looking install.

[StreetLegal 119]

Nice!

[edouble101 314]

I spent more time listening to my setup. Voltages are still jumping around. I am confused as to why I shouldn't need another battery. Maybe another set of 1/0 runs???

[Tremonic 7]

First off what exactly is your voltage jumping around to? (you may have told me this already and I forgot)

Man the only other wire addition that I can think of that will benefit you is a run straight from the alt to the back batt and a ground run straight from the back batt to the alt ground that you have up front. You pretty much have your other bases covered.

NM. Just went back through and looked. Yup, something is definitely off.

Edited June 9, 2011 by Tremonic

[edouble101 314]

First off what exactly is your voltage jumping around to? (you may have told me this already and I forgot)

Man the only other wire addition that I can think of that will benefit you is a run straight from the alt to the back batt and a ground run straight from the back batt to the alt ground that you have up front. You pretty much have your other bases covered.

I was having belt slip issues, or so we thought. Voltage is more steady now since changing pulleys and my wiring changes. But voltage will bounce from 13.6ish to 15.3 occasionally, I have a feeling this is on clipped songs that are boosted to high in recording (decaf and shizzon tracks).

I do not think I need another battery, I hope not. Maybe another set of 1/0 runs?

I posted in the XS Power subsection to get Nathan's advice too.

[Tremonic 7]

First off what exactly is your voltage jumping around to? (you may have told me this already and I forgot)

Man the only other wire addition that I can think of that will benefit you is a run straight from the alt to the back batt and a ground run straight from the back batt to the alt ground that you have up front. You pretty much have your other bases covered.

I was having belt slip issues, or so we thought. Voltage is more steady now since changing pulleys and my wiring changes. But voltage will bounce from 13.6ish to 15.3 occasionally, I have a feeling this is on clipped songs that are boosted to high in recording (decaf and shizzon tracks).

I do not think I need another battery, I hope not. Maybe another set of 1/0 runs?

I posted in the XS Power subsection to get Nathan's advice too.

So 13.6. So where you actually having belt slip issues or was that just a theory? As I said before you can try a dedicated run straight from the alt to the rear batt and I'm sure that would help. What kind of wire are you using? I'm not saying anything bad about DC but have you had the alt load tested to see if the output is what it should be? If it's putting out like it should then this is just plain odd.

[edouble101 314]

Belt slip was a conclusion to my voltage issues but it appears to me that may not be the case. Rob and Kyle said it was slipping and they know their product so I believe them.

I am using Stinger HPM 1/0.

I have never seen a spec sheet on my alternator. Rob and Kyle say it works as it should.

[Tremonic 7]

Belt slip was a conclusion to my voltage issues but it appears to me that may not be the case. Rob and Kyle said it was slipping and they know their product so I believe them.

I am using Stinger HPM 1/0.

I have never seen a spec sheet on my alternator. Rob and Kyle say it works as it should.

Well the wire is good stuff. I would still have the alt bench tested. Again not that I doubt DC (hell I run their product) and I'm definitely not saying they don't know their sh*t or anything like that. I don't want to be misunderstood here. It's just that sometimes weird things happen. Seeing his post saying that he doesn't understand why your having the issue (and I don't either) would prompt me to do it as a just in case. And maybe try throwing the smaller pulley back on just to see the result? I'm just throwing ideas out there for the proccess of elimination.

[edouble101 314]

Belt slip was a conclusion to my voltage issues but it appears to me that may not be the case. Rob and Kyle said it was slipping and they know their product so I believe them.

I am using Stinger HPM 1/0.

I have never seen a spec sheet on my alternator. Rob and Kyle say it works as it should.

Well the wire is good stuff. I would still have the alt bench tested. Again not that I doubt DC (hell I run their product) and I'm definitely not saying they don't know their sh*t or anything like that. I don't want to be misunderstood here. It's just that sometimes weird things happen. Seeing his post saying that he doesn't understand why your having the issue (and I don't either) would prompt me to do it as a just in case. And maybe try throwing the smaller pulley back on just to see the result? I'm just throwing ideas out there for the proccess of elimination.

I understand what you are saying.

I had issues with this alternator unrelated to belt slip or voltage fluctuations. The alternator completely stopped working, no voltage output at all. I sent it back to DC Power they tested it and said it was good. Conclusion was it was a weird anomaly.

I am getting frustrated with this as I am sure DC Power is as well. I have never heard of anybody having issues with DC Power's alternator output. This is why I believe it is my setup that is at fault, I just cannot come to a definite conclusion to where the weak link is. I take alot of time to research and to install my setup so I do not have problem. I do not want to throw money into it without knowing 100% that it is going to be effective.

I will look into benching testing this alternator, if I can find someone local to test it. Based on DC Power's outstanding customer satisfaction in their product I do not expect to see anything other than steller output.

[DC Power Kyle 21]

Belt slip was a conclusion to my voltage issues but it appears to me that may not be the case. Rob and Kyle said it was slipping and they know their product so I believe them.

I am using Stinger HPM 1/0.

I have never seen a spec sheet on my alternator. Rob and Kyle say it works as it should.

Well the wire is good stuff. I would still have the alt bench tested. Again not that I doubt DC (hell I run their product) and I'm definitely not saying they don't know their sh*t or anything like that. I don't want to be misunderstood here. It's just that sometimes weird things happen. Seeing his post saying that he doesn't understand why your having the issue (and I don't either) would prompt me to do it as a just in case. And maybe try throwing the smaller pulley back on just to see the result? I'm just throwing ideas out there for the proccess of elimination.

I understand what you are saying.

I had issues with this alternator unrelated to belt slip or voltage fluctuations. The alternator completely stopped working, no voltage output at all. I sent it back to DC Power they tested it and said it was good. Conclusion was it was a weird anomaly.

I am getting frustrated with this as I am sure DC Power is as well. I have never heard of anybody having issues with DC Power's alternator output. This is why I believe it is my setup that is at fault, I just cannot come to a definite conclusion to where the weak link is. I take alot of time to research and to install my setup so I do not have problem. I do not want to throw money into it without knowing 100% that it is going to be effective.

I will look into benching testing this alternator, if I can find someone local to test it. Based on DC Power's outstanding customer satisfaction in their product I do not expect to see anything other than steller output.

Just have to remember that somehow you still may have belt slip...

[edouble101 314]

Belt slip was a conclusion to my voltage issues but it appears to me that may not be the case. Rob and Kyle said it was slipping and they know their product so I believe them.

I am using Stinger HPM 1/0.

I have never seen a spec sheet on my alternator. Rob and Kyle say it works as it should.

Well the wire is good stuff. I would still have the alt bench tested. Again not that I doubt DC (hell I run their product) and I'm definitely not saying they don't know their sh*t or anything like that. I don't want to be misunderstood here. It's just that sometimes weird things happen. Seeing his post saying that he doesn't understand why your having the issue (and I don't either) would prompt me to do it as a just in case. And maybe try throwing the smaller pulley back on just to see the result? I'm just throwing ideas out there for the proccess of elimination.

I understand what you are saying.

I had issues with this alternator unrelated to belt slip or voltage fluctuations. The alternator completely stopped working, no voltage output at all. I sent it back to DC Power they tested it and said it was good. Conclusion was it was a weird anomaly.

I am getting frustrated with this as I am sure DC Power is as well. I have never heard of anybody having issues with DC Power's alternator output. This is why I believe it is my setup that is at fault, I just cannot come to a definite conclusion to where the weak link is. I take alot of time to research and to install my setup so I do not have problem. I do not want to throw money into it without knowing 100% that it is going to be effective.

I will look into benching testing this alternator, if I can find someone local to test it. Based on DC Power's outstanding customer satisfaction in their product I do not expect to see anything other than steller output.

Just have to remember that somehow you still may have belt slip...

I am loking into buying an idler pulley I just might fabricate a new alternator bracket with idler pulley. Although I might not need a new bracket if I can find a 1" pulley. I will see....

[DC Power Kyle 21]

Eric, why are you looking for an idler pulley when we sent you one with the alternator? Why did it not get used?

[edouble101 314]

Eric, why are you looking for an idler pulley when we sent you one with the alternator? Why did it not get used?

There was not an idler pulley in the package. The only pulley was the one bolted to the alternator shaft.

[edouble101 314]

Is this the idler pulley I was sent? The id is probably 0.100" bigger than the bolt size. And I would also think that the "pulley" and zinc plated steel bolt would corrode over a short time. After the bolt is tightened the "pulley" wouldnt even be able to rotate smoothly even if it was a good fit to the bolt.

This is an idler pulley

I am loking into a 80mm Dayco idler pulley.

[DC Power Kyle 21]

Eric Im going to try and send you an idler today. Looks like someone took it.

[edouble101 314]

Thanks Kyle. The only other item that was in the package other than the alternator was the bolt and bushing that I posted above.

[djjdnap 78]

13.6v isnt bad at all

mine on a continuous bass note mine drops to 12.6v

Edited June 10, 2011 by djjdnap

[slim2fattycake 85]

Yeah, I mean its still on alt power right there. With my 3k and AC and all lights on, I never dropped under ~13.5v with just 1 deka 9a31.

[edouble101 314]

I just received the tracking number thanks Kyle, Rob. I will definitely post back how the install went and results.

[edouble101 314]

The package was sent to my old address