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kryptonitewhite

(4) Custom Fi 18's (4) AP30001Ds 45 cubic feet 20" port @ 24Hz

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I just purchased (4) custom FiCarAudio 18's from Jim, aka ZORA. Thank you very much Jim, I am very excited to see how these perform in the van! So here's what's in the van:

Alpine IVA-W505 DVD player. I purchased it with the intent of running an optical out cable for audio and Ai-NET cable to touch-screen interface with the crossover, Alpine PXA-H701.

All slopes are set to 30dB/oct going against the advice of CUBDENNO, who said "keep it even at 24dB!" sorry but I just can't make myself do it!

(4) Vifa XT25TG30 1" ring radiators doing a steep 66dB/oct slope 14kHz on up (yeah, I know, but thats how it is) off a Kicker SX500.2 parallel 2ohms with its 36dB/oct slope adding in the mix. Since 14k on up is such a small weak bandwidth, I had to add a PG line driver I got from my buddy in the windy city/

(2) CSS FR125S 4.5" full range XBL^2 drivers doing 710Hz-14k off a KX650.4 bridged 8 ohms

(4) Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's off (2) KX850.4's each bridged on a pair covering 80Hz-710Hz

(4) custom Fi 18's from Jim, who gave me one hell of a deal.. great guy to work with! Covering 200Hz on down. Too high? too bad! Overlaping the Extremis? yup! When I dropped the old subs down to 80Hz, I really missed the 80Hz-200Hz content from the subs. When I brought the Extremis up to 200Hz from 80Hz, I hated it! They sound different coming from the different drivers (they being 80Hz-200Hz) and I miss them when i remove either!

Enclosure is 45 cubic feet, 20" diameter port 20" long for a 24Hz tune! Subs are HPed at 6dB/oct at 20Hz for protection.

120-150 cans of Great Stuff expanding foam..so glad I didn't do all 2x4's!

Toggle switches to disable the different bands: I can kill the tweets, 4.5's, 7"ers, and subs all separately, run any combination... just subs and tweets, just mids, whatever at the flip of a switch!

The subs:

Fs = 23.7 Hz

Re = 1.8 Ohms

Qms = 7.22

Qes = 0.38

Qts = 0.35

Cms = 130.0 uM/N

Mms = 300.0 grams

Sd = 1217.0 cmsq

Vas = 279.4 liters

SPL = 92.1 dB

X-max = 40mm

Power = 1,500+ watts

The top plate is 7/8", triple magnet, 2 ohm flatwound coils, single spider (8" I think), paper/kevlar cone, santoprene surround.

The 40mm might actually be X-mech one-way. A throw of 28-30mm one-way with the coil in the gap?

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I LOVED the IB3s. Weak motored subs have troubles being loaded with ports... rather than peaking at tuning, my FR responce wasn't where I wanted it. I had to PEQ heavily to bring the 20Hz-30Hz region up to fight the port. Don't get it wrong, the IB3s had enough motor to bottom out even at tuning easily, its the FR curve. So i got bigger motored subs like everyone said I should have all along to get more 20Hz-30Hz rather than peaking at 30Hz-50Hz like I was. I LOVED the IB3s and plan on keeping them in my towers!

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Those are some really odd crossover points you have.

Gotta agree.

Good luck with your build, keep those pics coming.

:drink40:

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Toggle switches to disable the different bands: I can kill the tweets, 4.5's, 7"ers, and subs all separately, run any combination... just subs and tweets, just mids, whatever at the flip of a switch!

Why?

Toggle on the subs I can understand. Toggle on the tweeters with wideband midrange I can sort of understand. But why would you want to kill the midrange or midbass drivers?

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Toggle switches to disable the different bands: I can kill the tweets, 4.5's, 7"ers, and subs all separately, run any combination... just subs and tweets, just mids, whatever at the flip of a switch!

Why?

Toggle on the subs I can understand. Toggle on the tweeters with wideband midrange I can sort of understand. But why would you want to kill the midrange or midbass drivers?

You have to understand this is the same guy that was going to trade his van for a ford excursion limo for a daily driver. :attempt:

Kryptonitewhite, your videos are awesome don't get me wrong, keep it up :wub:

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I went out of my way to explain the crossover points... silly people

Why kill specific bandwidths? Several reasons. For me (NOT YOU) it is fun to show people who aren't as knowledgable as you what the different drivers do and what different frequencies are. Second, because I (NOT YOU) enjoy listening to certain things and not others sometimes. Sometimes I like to hear just the depths in the vocals for something, or hear just the treble in a certain part of a song. It is nice to be able to isolate it to check something out.

Furthermore, it helps a lot to isolate specific drivers at certain times. I hear something in a song that sounds odd or out of place, I back up, kill the other drivers, replay. If it's in an overlapping region, I back up again, try it with the other driver. I (NOT YOU)_ find it very useful.

Thanks for the encouragements guys, soon as I get the 1st driver (those pics I posted were what I received from the seller) I will take some more pics of it then free air it on an EP4000 and of course make too many vids of that as well :)

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I went out of my way to explain the crossover points... silly people

Why kill specific bandwidths? Several reasons. For me (NOT YOU) it is fun to show people who aren't as knowledgable as you what the different drivers do and what different frequencies are. Second, because I (NOT YOU) enjoy listening to certain things and not others sometimes. Sometimes I like to hear just the depths in the vocals for something, or hear just the treble in a certain part of a song. It is nice to be able to isolate it to check something out.

Furthermore, it helps a lot to isolate specific drivers at certain times. I hear something in a song that sounds odd or out of place, I back up, kill the other drivers, replay. If it's in an overlapping region, I back up again, try it with the other driver. I (NOT YOU)_ find it very useful.

Thanks for the encouragements guys, soon as I get the 1st driver (those pics I posted were what I received from the seller) I will take some more pics of it then free air it on an EP4000 and of course make too many vids of that as well :)

I can understand your 'kill switch' ideas. I really cant argue your logic.

J

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The first sub should get here this week, when it does I'll have plenty of pics then free air break in vids off an EP4000. Until then, here's the latest walk though vid I did a few weeks ago showing the entire system when I had the IB3s in at the time.

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Thank you so much zora, pics do not do them justice... they are just ridiculous HUGE! Why would anyone want ULTRAs, notnyt? Are you INSANE?! lol jk jk.

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Dang it, stop bumping his threads. Wish I wouldn't have come in here :( :(

Those are some really odd crossover points you have.

Like that is the only thing odd, lol

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just nuts, completely changes my perspective on photos of big subs. no way I'd put BTLs, ULTRAs, or Wardens in my wall or HT. notnyt, I take it back... putting these in the towers? IDK... theyd be directly connected to 2"x4"s or side boards, but wow...IDK... and youre nuts having the 18's you have. nuts.

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I don't know if I can hear it surpassing Xmax or if it's the hard plastic dustcap against the air behind it, but around 1/2 way it gets noisy. Not bad/broken noisy, just motor noise or something.

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holding these just isn't the same as the IB3s and all the other subs I've done, so here's the break in rig I built for the cute little guys. Again thanks to zora, he has been an amazing seller all the way.

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Im already getting lots of comments on the break in vids and I havent even posted them up yet, so I know when I do I'm going to get a lot more of this but: it is NOT bottoming out. I've been running subs free air full excursion as well as running subs full excursion loaded in enclosures for over 10 years. I generally know the difference between tinsel slap, air slapping the dustcap being forced through a pole vent, spiders pulling tight, rocking, scraping, bent coil, coil on bottom plate, cone on spider landing, surrounds pulling tight. I am no expert but I am no novice (despite loving to piss everyone off and doing things different, MY way not YOUR way :D )

Anyway, yes the sub is very noisy and I haven't figured out what it is yet or whether it will be an issue loaded or not, but here they are :)

the EP4000 doesnt like a 2ohm load, even with just 1 sub free air :(

5 minutes into it

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Can an EP4000 be clipping without the clip indicating lights coming on? They are set to go on...Ive done it enough times with the IB3s to know, but maybe with it being at 2ohms it "doesn't know"? The sub is really out there in excursion before it gets too noisy, the amp gets warm, and the master volume is at -11dB which is 4dB louder than I ever have it and 14dB louder than I usually have it. Master volume being that high with 1/2 the impedance has me wondering, though even if I bring it to -9dB and it really gets loud, the clip lights still dont even tickle.

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!!OFFENSIVE LYRICS!!

Now I am at the stage of just making a bunch of vids. Lights actually dimming from one EP4000 on one sub free air.

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The new Fi/Blueprint Audio driver gets a pass so the other three get shipped Friday.

Nate at http://www.excessiveamperage.com/ hooked me up with Mario at [email protected] so I will be getting my second alt added soon! I will be pulling my again failing Iraggi alternator that Domanic Iraggi ripped me off on, Nate will repair it and let me know if it's even "HO".

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I want a crimper like that one, this swedge-on tool is pretty easy to use though, only downside is I have to walk back and forth to the bench to use it.

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