So this is crazy

[DarkTinman 9]

I was looking around on some forums and i saw http://www.****/forum/showthread.php?t=61103

I wondered why you would need that, so i looked at his build log and found http://www.****/forum/showthread.php?t=64796

Wow, well i guess i can't say Car Audio classifieds.So just copy and replace the "****" with car audio classifieds

So this raises a couple of questions for me, i am still new to car audio, well the big league car audio anyways.

Why does he need that many 1/0 gauge wires running to his sundown amp? I understand that maybe the resistance is less but still...

Do i need to do something similar?

Also, i noticed he has two sets of power, how exactly does that work? Is it one straight from the alt to the back, or is it two from the front battery?

What is the best wire setup for a 4500D?

And lastly, i still do not understand why sundown audio amps have two sets of power in, i don't know how to use them either.

Answers would be awesome!! I know that many of you guys out there know pretty much everything and this sounds pretty dumb but i just would really enjoy understanding all of this.

Edited March 1, 2011 by DarkTinman

[Deto1992 5]

your links dont work

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

In most cases that is overkill. If the manufacturer thinks it needed dual power/grounds they would have put them on there.

If an amp is thought to draw more current than a single 0ga wire can supply it is needed so they build it with them on the amp.

That said, people go crazy chasing 10th of a db in competition. It can be serious business, Go hard or go home.

[Ohjay 116]

[Dictator1992 6]

More time and money then i got........

[DarkTinman 9]

Well i plan on buying a 4500D sundown and i am not sure with the dual inputs how that works out. And what do you guys recommend for a amp like that? I will have a 270xp DC power alternator and currently i have a 1800HC battery. I think i want to get either 2 2400's and maybe add 2 more later. Or get 2 3400's. I know that they are expensive and honestly i am leaning toward the 2400's, but do you think that can sustain the amp? I won't just have those two batteries forever but probably for a while...

Also, i would be pushing 2 DC audio level 4's with level 5 soft parts.

[DarkTinman 9]

Anyone interested on giving me input?

[swagger_wagon468 53]

I am realatively in the same boat as you, just getting into the big stuff. I was talking to Rob and Kyle at DC Power about the 270xp that I will also be gettting. And I asked if it would be big enough for 2 saz2500's and they both said yes. So im prettty sure the 4500 would be fine off of tthe 270xp.

Also, rob was telling me that his rule of thumb is one battery per 1000w. (Including the primary batt) so if you are running 5000w... then you would need 4 extra batts. Plus your primary. = 5 total batts. What size batts? He didn't say. But just thought I would share what he shared with me.

[slim2fattycake 85]

Get the amp in, install and then see your voltage drop. I ran my 270xp with 3k at idle and it never dropped under 13.5 volts. I had a deka group 34 under the hood and a deka group 31 in the trunk. Don't by overkill when you don't even know if you need it. Darktinman, the two power inputs, just run two power wires from your rear battery positive and fuse both wires. They are just two separate runs to the amp to divide the amp draw through each wire. And you will want to turn on the first click of your lights to make the car keep the voltage up. When you get the alternator in, its not going to be the alternators fault that you don't sit above 14volts all the time. The ECU on the 94-97 accord, that I know of, controls voltage and it will be done as low as 12.5 volts but only when there isn't a lot of load that works the alternator. If you want to get cheaper priced batteries, get deka 9a31 or ngb extreme group 31 batteries. But do as I said first, you don't want to buy 4 batteries and have it sit there and not need it. Plus, that's a hell of a lot of weight combined with your wall.

I have played with the level 4 with level 5 coils before too.

[DarkTinman 9]

Oh really? Alright i will keep that in mind! That is really good input from you swagger! I also love the name bro! But yeah, honestly thank you! I will keep that in mind! Also, legit name bro! I saw the swagger wagon video and it was dope. Made me want to buy one! Kyle is pretty cool, have you gotten in touch with him recently? It seems that when i try and talk to him or get a hold of him he doesn't answer. My 250xp that was toned down once because it broke, broke again and i have been trying to talk to him but it almost seems as though he is ignoring me... I don't know. I know kyle is a really cool guy but i have sent him 3+ emails and lots of calls... And on top of that, my stock alternator is broken so i can't even drive my daily driver so this is actually a HUGE problem.

Phi, you are the man. That is great info. I know that the ECU in the accord is stupid and that the voltage is always messed up but it makes sense to leave on the side ones, i have HID's in my car, so would it help if i left those on? I should've figured about the inputs, i assumed that it was for something like that but i never had anyone clearly tell me what they were for. It also raised a lot of questions when i saw that guy on the forum with 8 runs of 1/0 gauge going to the amp... Well, i don't want to sacrifice value and quality for price. I wanna kinda do things right the first time, or as much as i can do with it being my first time. Yeah i know! I will probably end up putting the batteries inbetween my wheel wells so that way the weight sits on the axle instead of sagging the back. I saw that with another Honda Accord owners car and i vowed i would never let my accord sag lol. Oh really? What do you think is better, DC or SSA? I know it's kinda biased but if it is and maybe your opinion is different then what it's supposed to be you can just ignore my question on here and send me a message lol!

[Kanaworm$ 292]

Phi did a great job explaining go with his advice!