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Rockford Fosgate amp comparison

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I currently have a PowerBass ASA 1500.1Dx amplifier and am thinking about upgrading to a Rockford Fosgate amplifier. I am running two kicker CVX 12's and am trying to decide between the T1000-1bdcp and the T1500-1bd. How much difference does "constant power" make? which one would run my subs with more spl?

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You won't notice a difference between any of the amps, so the only reason to upgrade would be aesthetics.

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You won't notice a difference between any of the amps, so the only reason to upgrade would be aesthetics.

So the constant power makes that much difference? If so the 1000 would be better because it's easier on the electrical right?

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I don't know the specs, but I'm guessing both 1500s are 1500 watt amps and the 1000 is a 1000 watt amp. If this is the case, you will not notice an audible difference in power between them, so no need to change unless you like one over the other for whatever the reason. As for constant power, I don't really know what you mean as an amp never puts out "constant" power with music, hell it's not even constant with sign waves, but close enough. IF you are talking about RMS, peak, or maximum, don't pay any attention to peak or maximum.

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Why do you want to change amps?

What are the specs on the box the woofers are in?

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There should be quite a good difference from the powerbass to the fosgate constant power 1500, the PB ASA 1500 says 750@2ohms which would affect you a whole lot if you have some moderated to high impedance rise, as where with the fosgate near 2ohms it will still do 85-90% of full power and the fosgate 1500 is probably underrated by 2-500rms. My t2500-1bdcp is pretty much 3500rms.

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There should be quite a good difference from the powerbass to the fosgate constant power 1500, the PB ASA 1500 says 750@2ohms which would affect you a whole lot if you have some moderated to high impedance rise, as where with the fosgate near 2ohms it will still do 85-90% of full power and the fosgate 1500 is probably underrated by 2-500rms. My t2500-1bdcp is pretty much 3500rms.

it would be either the regular t1500 or the t1000-bdcp. would i be any louder switching to either, and if so which would be loudest overall

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Why do you want to change amps?

What are the specs on the box the woofers are in?

I want to switch amps because I'm not sure how close to rated the powerbass amp makes. The local PB dealer says they don't make near rated (and he doesnt sell pb ams), but yet i blew away a kid on an alpine mrp-m1000 and it's never gotten hot.

My box is 1.25 or 1.5 cu ft per chamber, its shitty and im going custom soon

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There should be quite a good difference from the powerbass to the fosgate constant power 1500, the PB ASA 1500 says 750@2ohms which would affect you a whole lot if you have some moderated to high impedance rise, as where with the fosgate near 2ohms it will still do 85-90% of full power and the fosgate 1500 is probably underrated by 2-500rms. My t2500-1bdcp is pretty much 3500rms.

it would be either the regular t1500 or the t1000-bdcp. would i be any louder switching to either, and if so which would be loudest overall

Oh ok then i would have to say not worth the swap in this case the difference would be next to none and not worth the extra money. Only advantage the fosgate would have over the pb in this case would probably be a tad better efficiency.

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There should be quite a good difference from the powerbass to the fosgate constant power 1500, the PB ASA 1500 says 750@2ohms which would affect you a whole lot if you have some moderated to high impedance rise, as where with the fosgate near 2ohms it will still do 85-90% of full power and the fosgate 1500 is probably underrated by 2-500rms. My t2500-1bdcp is pretty much 3500rms.

it would be either the regular t1500 or the t1000-bdcp. would i be any louder switching to either, and if so which would be loudest overall

Oh ok then i would have to say not worth the swap in this case the difference would be next to none and not worth the extra money. Only advantage the fosgate would have over the pb in this case would probably be a tad better efficiency.

so you think my pb makes rated?

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Those constant power amps are supposed to be alot more constant than others. no hands on experience but i saw meade changed his amps over to the CP's, supposed to make a difference. his description on the video says this..

"T2500.1bd which adds two letters to the end. CP. That stands for Constant Power. Basically, this amp puts out all of its power regardless of impedence rise, something you may encounter with most subwoofer enclosures. What this means is more power! Here is a description from the RF website

The T2500-1bdCP is based on the legendary T2500-1bd amplifier design with a proprietary "Constant Power" configuration that delivers up to 25% more power (Watts) across all impedance loads. The result is a listening experience cleaner, louder and more impressive than ever before. This T2500-1bdCP amplifier pumps out 2,500 watts, easily driving any array of woofers wired to a 1-ohm load."

video

I know this isnt the 1500 but the CP remains the same. again, no hands on experience just what is said there.

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Not sure if the pb does rated i have heard they do rated and in some cases a lil more, but i have no personal experience with the pb stuff, but it seems that those that run them seem to like them, but one thing about buying car audio equipment is you get what you pay for.

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Not sure if the pb does rated i have heard they do rated and in some cases a lil more, but i have no personal experience with the pb stuff, but it seems that those that run them seem to like them, but one thing about buying car audio equipment is you get what you pay for.

so going to either of those rockford amps is not going to have a noticeable difference? and another thing. . . my voltage drops to high 10's with an optima up front and a shuriken in the back

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Those constant power amps are supposed to be alot more constant than others. no hands on experience but i saw meade changed his amps over to the CP's, supposed to make a difference. his description on the video says this..

"T2500.1bd which adds two letters to the end. CP. That stands for Constant Power. Basically, this amp puts out all of its power regardless of impedence rise, something you may encounter with most subwoofer enclosures. What this means is more power! Here is a description from the RF website

The T2500-1bdCP is based on the legendary T2500-1bd amplifier design with a proprietary "Constant Power" configuration that delivers up to 25% more power (Watts) across all impedance loads. The result is a listening experience cleaner, louder and more impressive than ever before. This T2500-1bdCP amplifier pumps out 2,500 watts, easily driving any array of woofers wired to a 1-ohm load."

video

I know this isnt the 1500 but the CP remains the same. again, no hands on experience just what is said there.

yeah i saw that, i was just wondering if going to the fosgates will get me louder. it seems weird that my amp never gets hot, yet it claims to make 1.5krms

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voltage drops to the high 10's.?. thats kinda low man, might want to consider some electrical work. not good for the amp to see voltage that low while beating on it. thats very low for having an extra battery and running only a 1500 watt amp. Something might be wrong.

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voltage drops to the high 10's.?. thats kinda low man, might want to consider some electrical work. not good for the amp to see voltage that low while beating on it. thats very low for having an extra battery and running only a 1500 watt amp. Something might be wrong.

What could be wrong? The stock alternator is rated at 130 amps, but the wires under the hood are thin (and i cannot upgrade them without serious engine work), and i'm running the amp at .7 or.8 ohms

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that could be part of the problem. big 3 should get done. Im no expert with electrical systems at all. I usually just do the big 3 and add the extra battery like you have already done. probably should make sure all your grounds are very solid and really consider putting in the work for the big 3. It couldnt hurt at this point. But if you are running that low of voltage i would be easy on your system at the least. dont push it hard at all. I had a vehicle along time ago that voltage would get very low and running it at 1 ohm would kick the amp into protect. Not good for the amp im sure.

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that could be part of the problem. big 3 should get done. Im no expert with electrical systems at all. I usually just do the big 3 and add the extra battery like you have already done. probably should make sure all your grounds are very solid and really consider putting in the work for the big 3. It couldnt hurt at this point. But if you are running that low of voltage i would be easy on your system at the least. dont push it hard at all. I had a vehicle along time ago that voltage would get very low and running it at 1 ohm would kick the amp into protect. Not good for the amp im sure.

Yeah. is power output a linear function of voltage?

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that could be part of the problem. big 3 should get done. Im no expert with electrical systems at all. I usually just do the big 3 and add the extra battery like you have already done. probably should make sure all your grounds are very solid and really consider putting in the work for the big 3. It couldnt hurt at this point. But if you are running that low of voltage i would be easy on your system at the least. dont push it hard at all. I had a vehicle along time ago that voltage would get very low and running it at 1 ohm would kick the amp into protect. Not good for the amp im sure.

Yeah. is power output a linear function of voltage?

Yes Sir. Volts x amps = watts.

Technically you'd factor in efficiency and impedance but all that's sort of a moot point as you can get a larger alternator to make more volts and of course turn up the volume to get the amp to draw more amps but impedance will be all over the place and efficiency will be dependent upon all three of those so yeah. So just remember that volts x amps = watts lol It gets reeeeeaaaaal hairy trying to determine how much power you're making on paper. Leave that to the engineers.

Edited by An-i-no

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Keep your amp and do the big3.

Then you can work on a box design.

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