mids dont fit...

[BeAlLsTaR13 2]

well i ran into an issue today, which isnt TOO bad just its one of those things that dont go as planned that you gotta get around

well i was going to start a portion of my new build today, or at least test fit (thank god i test fit on this and didnt run into it last minute)

but i had originally planned to fit my ID CTX65cs comps in my doors, the mids are 6.5" which generally i can fit that circumfrance, however.. not that specific depth

i made these rings to go on the door panel, they are 3/4" MDF, with a 1/4" flush cut out for them.. flush is king and they fit in the rings like a charm (first time i made my own rings - so i was happy) i primered them and painted em so they wouldnt swell if they got moisture on them:

now actually in the doors:

NOW i came into this KNOWING i would have to cutout some of the door panel to get the mid to get inside the door, that was expected cause it is stock 4x6 i had... now when i went to test fit" the woofer here is what i got:

door panel, mounting ring, woofer.. with about a 1" gap from the woofer to the mounting ring, no.. the woofer isnt having an issue passing through the 4x6 hole (yet) the motor is hitting the window track inside the door panel FTMFL, as you may be able to see how close in the pic below:

i wouldnt exactly say POOR planning, i never thought about it cause ive fit 6" and 6.5" mids in there before, the reason i went with these mounting rings was because the 4x6 adapters that are available from my car go from 1/2" to 1" on an angle and the woofer would hit against the door panel cause of the angle the original adapter was on

so now i have to figure out a wal to get these to fit, gotten too far now to send them back for a refund and convert back down to 6" or even 5 1/4"

any suggestions? i considered doing something like this:

but IMO that would look tacky, and wouldnt i lose midbass? also, that door panel above is the same exact door panel i am working with, it is from the same kind of car (2002 Pontiac grand AM SE 4 door)

i did consider glassing door panels, but i really dont have the time, nor the experience to work with something like that

in the pic above showing the door panel with the speakers, where the SINGLE speaker is is where my factory grille is, its molded into the door panel so has to be cut out.

[Kanaworm$ 292]

Cut out another ring and mount it to the other and cut out the door panel carefully to either fit around the rings or just mount the rings to the panel and metal itself and use the supplied grills from the ID set.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Cut or grind the door inside your rings.

[lithium 358]

edit: assuming you dont have enough room between skin and panel for another mdf ring for more mounting depth!!!

im trying to find a picture of how you can do it. no luck so far....

so ill try to do an outline of the steps but you will have to imagine how it its going to look...

1 remove door panel.

2 attach a mounting brace across the stock speaker hole on the metal door skin. this will hold on to a fiberglass pod.

3 put the door panel back on

4 looking at the hole in the door panel where the speaker would be you can no see a metal brace spanning the internal door skin.

5 tape off from the door panel to the door skin and flat across the metal brace (will look like a bowl shape. (what will happen here is that this create a "tunnel" or cylinder shape chamber that the speaker will be mounted to. also keeps the the rear sound wave from the speaker firing into the cavity in the door.)

6 mount the speaker ring to this mold.. method would probably involve fiberglassing it..

7 what you should have now is essentially a fiberglass pod.

8 remember that brace attached to the door skin? use bolts to attach the pod to the brace.

9 decide what alignment you will be using the speaker in? aka infinite baffle, firing into the door, or sealed (or aperiodic). to vent the pod into the door just cut/drill some holes on either side of the brace to vent the pod into the door.

10 mount speaker to the ring

hopefully you can kind of visualize this... in short your creating a speaker pod just outside the door panel that is attached to the door skin via a brace, which is then vented into the door correctly.

edited for condition of dimensions!!!!

[BeAlLsTaR13 2]

Cut or grind the door inside your rings.

thats not the issue yet, the motor is hitting my window track inside of the door allowing it to not go in any further

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

like this

http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/howto/pioneer_buildoff_09_1.htm

[BeAlLsTaR13 2]

edit: assuming you dont have enough room between skin and panel for another mdf ring for more mounting depth!!!

im trying to find a picture of how you can do it. no luck so far....

so ill try to do an outline of the steps but you will have to imagine how it its going to look...

1 remove door panel.

2 attach a mounting brace across the stock speaker hole on the metal door skin. this will hold on to a fiberglass pod.

3 put the door panel back on

4 looking at the hole in the door panel where the speaker would be you can no see a metal brace spanning the internal door skin.

5 tape off from the door panel to the door skin and flat across the metal brace (will look like a bowl shape. (what will happen here is that this create a "tunnel" or cylinder shape chamber that the speaker will be mounted to. also keeps the the rear sound wave from the speaker firing into the cavity in the door.)

6 mount the speaker ring to this mold.. method would probably involve fiberglassing it..

7 what you should have now is essentially a fiberglass pod.

8 remember that brace attached to the door skin? use bolts to attach the pod to the brace.

9 decide what alignment you will be using the speaker in? aka infinite baffle, firing into the door, or sealed (or aperiodic). to vent the pod into the door just cut/drill some holes on either side of the brace to vent the pod into the door.

10 mount speaker to the ring

hopefully you can kind of visualize this... in short your creating a speaker pod just outside the door panel that is attached to the door skin via a brace, which is then vented into the door correctly.

edited for condition of dimensions!!!!

ok i think i get it now when you say "door skin" im assuming the metal on the door panel its self? so basically what im doing is going through my stock speaker grill correct? so basically i am making one of those "orb" type pods in my door panel which doing this will keep my midbass compared to if i just threw the mid inside of the stock speaker grill opening correct?

this is my door panel (well this belongs to a 2 door but same concept)

[BeAlLsTaR13 2]

like this

http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/howto/pioneer_buildoff_09_1.htm

wish i had the time/skill to do that lol

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

It's not complicated just follow the steps. If you can make a flushed ring you can do that.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Cut or grind the door inside your rings.

thats not the issue yet, the motor is hitting my window track inside of the door allowing it to not go in any further

Sorry buddy, my bad.

[BeAlLsTaR13 2]

Cut or grind the door inside your rings.

thats not the issue yet, the motor is hitting my window track inside of the door allowing it to not go in any further

Sorry buddy, my bad.

lol its fine, by the looks of it I AM A have to do it a little bit anyways.. hopefully my dremel can get through it else i'll have to barrow somethin

[BeAlLsTaR13 2]

so i went out an cut out another 3/4" ring (no flush) and the door panel doesnt go on, stick out about 1/2" so it looks like im gonna try to go and do what lithium said above unless theres any other ideas, which im open to all

or even if someone has a link to mids just as good but shallower

[BeAlLsTaR13 2]

i think im just gonna either get a new set of comps in 5 1/4" or 6" size, or find one thats actually 6.5" cause these measure at almost 6.8 which imo should be considred 6 3/4

now, i was able to get one of these mids to fit:

JBL - P660C - 6-1/2" 2-Way Component Speaker System

can be had on ebay for like 130-140 shipped, however they are 2 ohm and i dont want my sax100.4 to tear them apart

or does anyone else have any other suggestions? that size mid right there with its outer diameter and mounting depth are the absolute max i can fit, not a hair bigger

[lithium 358]

ms paint FTFW

edit/

kind of hard to read the text, let me know if you need me to explain it. the first thing i did was show you a side view of it. then the next two show you where the brace is, where the fiberglass is laid, and where to vent the pod.

[lithium 358]

btw this is just how i've seen it done online afew times in a basic sense. i've never done this. though, im pretty sure i could if i need too.

[lithium 358]

look at bravox if there are any left in stock. a few reviews on this site rated them very highly.