* Ask Don of SDS *

[edouble101 314]

Operation make the panel above my trunk stop vibrating..

At this point I am only worried about the panel vibrating. I want to go with SDS products, what will I need and how much of it? I am not looking to go all out at this point; I just want to fix this and then I will deaden everything some other time when I have enough money to do it.

Here is a pic from inside of the trunk.

Thanks

-JP

Couple things. If there any plastic pieces on the top of your trunk lid that your seat belts pass though either remove them or try hot gluing them. I hot glued all four of mine but one still rattled. I ended up removing all four.

This is the final step. Use window foam seal tape on the edge of the bottom rear window where the rear deck meets. It more than likely definitely rattles there.

The rear deck panel is probably not rattling against the metal deck panel. From the factory it should have foam blocks attached to the bottom side of the rear deck panel to prevent this.

[Rudeboy 152]

As edouble101 said, it's important to identify the source of the rattles before doing anything. It looks like a simple rear deck without a plastic trim panel, so it should be easy to figure out. If you can stop the sound by touching or pressing on specific area(s), we should be able to find a solution.

[JPx7 1]

As edouble101 said, it's important to identify the source of the rattles before doing anything. It looks like a simple rear deck without a plastic trim panel, so it should be easy to figure out. If you can stop the sound by touching or pressing on specific area(s), we should be able to find a solution.

Yeah I'm pretty sure it is the rear deck.. the other day i had a bunch of people in my car and they had the idea to throw their bags up on the deck to see if the rattling would stop. The bags successfully stopped the rattling and it sounded so much better. Let me know if I need to further look into the problem and try some more things.

[Rudeboy 152]

As edouble101 said, it's important to identify the source of the rattles before doing anything. It looks like a simple rear deck without a plastic trim panel, so it should be easy to figure out. If you can stop the sound by touching or pressing on specific area(s), we should be able to find a solution.

Yeah I'm pretty sure it is the rear deck.. the other day i had a bunch of people in my car and they had the idea to throw their bags up on the deck to see if the rattling would stop. The bags successfully stopped the rattling and it sounded so much better. Let me know if I need to further look into the problem and try some more things.

That tells you that it's probably either the back edge of the trim panel rattling against the rear window (held away by the added weight) or the trim panel against the steel shelf (held down by added weight). Some vibration damper on the sheet metal and CCF between the trim panel and sheet metal, puled up over the back edge slightly should solve it.

[Sencheezy 689]

Hey Don,

Simple question for the man: I got a 2004 Civic Sedan, I'm currently running 6.5's in Kick Panels with a tweet in the A-Pillar. I've recently purchased drivers from H-Audio for a new front stage, this means a new install with a full treatment of deadener and MLV. There is currently no deadener in the car at all, also no speakers in any of the doors. I don't have a wild sub stage so road noise reduction is the ultimate goal. What should I do with the doors? Should I treat them like there is a mid there and seal off the access holes? or is a layer on the outer most skin and some on the inside skin enough? Both cases MLV & CCF will also be applied.

Also I've read a lot from some Honda guys, saying deadener up in the wheel wells makes a big difference. Are you familiar with 7th gen Civics? Whats your thoughts?

Thanks

-Rod

oh I send you an email too, you know usual price quote stuff...

In 2005 I drove a new Civic EX Sedan off the dealer's lot. I'd never heard of aftermarket acoustical treatments for cars, but within a day or two I realized I had a big noise problem. I couldn't talk on the phone and could barely hear the factory sound system. Like most people, my first attempt was to upgrade the stereo in an attempt to overpower the noise. The original SDS began as an attempt to figure out what products to use in my Civic. It has also served as a test bed for almost every product on the market. It also taught me that the recommended "layer on the vibration damper" treatment was a terrible way to reduce noise.

I decided to rip everything out and start fresh using the treatments I sell. Aaron can tell you about this stage of the product since he helped. Here's what came out:

I would have been better off buying a replacement but couldn't bring myself to pass that mess off on to someone else. I'd guess it took a solid month's labor, spread out over the fall and winter to get back to stock.

I'm almost done. I've been documenting the installation and will be posting the project on my Web site. This is actually why I've been so far behind on e-mails for the past month or so. Trunk's done. Roof's done. Front doors are done. Carpet went back in last night. All that's left is the back seat platform and rear doors. Rear deck will have to wait since I'll be mounting a sub IB there and will need to have the rear glass removed to do it.

Anyway, yes, I'm familiar with 7th gen Civics. I hung CCF and MLV on the inner and outer front door skins, but have mids mounted in them. The inner skin layer is more important for noise reduction since a lot of noise enters the doors from the top, sides and bottom. The outer skin layer blocks a little more noise but I installed it to make it harder to hear the speakers from outside the car.

Hello,

I'm having trouble finding the project you mentioned above in your website. Any info on this as I am looking forward to seeing how you do things in your vehicle.

[Rudeboy 152]

Hello,

I'm having trouble finding the project you mentioned above in your website. Any info on this as I am looking forward to seeing how you do things in your vehicle.

Haven't gotten it on the site yet - really hoping to have some time over the holidays. Maybe I'll post it up here first?

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

On the site, in the thread, post it wherever you can, I know it would be great reference material regardless

[Sencheezy 689]

Hello, I'm having trouble finding the project you mentioned above in your website. Any info on this as I am looking forward to seeing how you do things in your vehicle.

Haven't gotten it on the site yet - really hoping to have some time over the holidays. Maybe I'll post it up here first?

Been patiently waiting for soooo long now 8 months or so and I weally weally wna see what you do before making any decissions. Edited December 15, 2011 by Sencheezy

[Freshh 11]

I'm sure whatever he did was above the average joe. I'd like to see it too..

[JPx7 1]

As edouble101 said, it's important to identify the source of the rattles before doing anything. It looks like a simple rear deck without a plastic trim panel, so it should be easy to figure out. If you can stop the sound by touching or pressing on specific area(s), we should be able to find a solution.

Yeah I'm pretty sure it is the rear deck.. the other day i had a bunch of people in my car and they had the idea to throw their bags up on the deck to see if the rattling would stop. The bags successfully stopped the rattling and it sounded so much better. Let me know if I need to further look into the problem and try some more things.

That tells you that it's probably either the back edge of the trim panel rattling against the rear .iwindow (held away by the added weight) or the trim panel against the steel shelf (held down by added weight). Some vibration damper on the sheet metal and CCF between the trim panel and sheet metal, puled up over the back edge slightly should solve it.

Okay well Im pretty sure its the trim panel rattling against the steel shelf. About how much CCF and cld tiles will I need? And how much will it be?

[Rudeboy 152]

Hello, I'm having trouble finding the project you mentioned above in your website. Any info on this as I am looking forward to seeing how you do things in your vehicle.

Haven't gotten it on the site yet - really hoping to have some time over the holidays. Maybe I'll post it up here first?

Been patiently waiting for soooo long now 8 months or so and I weally weally wna see what you do before making any decissions.

Sorry.

[motorsport3 0]

Hi Don! how are you sir???

I saw a lot of post over different forum about you and the SDS!!! I've obtained good knowledge from SDS!! Thanks a lot!!

Also, I got some questions about your new(?) offering in the SDS website. How is that 3M stuff thinsulate acoustic??

and what do you think about STP stuff?? especially this one http://stp-atlantic.com/products/sound/1300630047/ and http://stp-atlantic.com/products/sealer/1299849311/

From what I gathered, the Alpha damp is top player in damoping since the foil is thickest, and I have no idea about what to choose for the ccf and mlv. Are they all same quality between SDS and Second Skin??

Oh, my last question!! How do you deaden doors with airbags??

TIA with respect

Curt

p.s. I have not put any stuff in my car yet its still factory bose and I would like to start working on the deadening first. I want to do it once and right : )

[Rudeboy 152]

Hi Don! how are you sir???

I saw a lot of post over different forum about you and the SDS!!! I've obtained good knowledge from SDS!! Thanks a lot!!

Also, I got some questions about your new(?) offering in the SDS website. How is that 3M stuff thinsulate acoustic??

and what do you think about STP stuff?? especially this one http://stp-atlantic.com/products/sound/1300630047/ and http://stp-atlantic.com/products/sealer/1299849311/

From what I gathered, the Alpha damp is top player in damoping since the foil is thickest, and I have no idea about what to choose for the ccf and mlv. Are they all same quality between SDS and Second Skin??

Oh, my last question!! How do you deaden doors with airbags??

TIA with respect

Curt

p.s. I have not put any stuff in my car yet its still factory bose and I would like to start working on the deadening first. I want to do it once and right : )

Curt,

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier. I think I may have misinterpreted your intent. I try to avoid commenting on competitor's products so can't help you much there. There's more to vibration damper than just foil thickness, so judging on that basis alone doesn't really make sense. I've never used or handled STP products. To be honest, stock photos of models, no technical information at all and the claim that they are derived from Soviet military technology haven't piqued my interest.

3M Thinsulate Acoustic is a remarkable absorber. It's actually used in some luxury cars.

How you treat a door with airbags is going to depend on the exact details of the door. The safest thing is to do nothing. The obvious point is not to interfere with their function.

[motorsport3 0]

Thanks a lot for the reply!!

That 3m stuff sound really good but its too thick for my use..

[emperorjj1 2]

Don,

Looking at the CCF and MLV to install in my 1993 Honda Civic DX front doors. What I would like to know is what the difference is between your CCF and Raamaudio Ensolite? Reason I ask is that the Ensolite is peel and stick and would speed up installation and reduce one step.

Thanks

~Curt

The main physical difference is that mine has a much smaller cell structure. This give it better resistance to compression set (flattening out). No offense meant to Rick, but peel & stick CCF is firmly in the fish/bicycle zone. You don't need to glue CCF to the floor since the MLV, carpet, seats, trim and gravity will hold everything in place. There's a huge advantage to being able to remove this stuff and put it back in when you need to get under it to do that thing you never thought you'd need to do.

I use Velcro Strips on vertical surfaces like this:

This lets you fit the MLV first and then come back and add the CCF. This is a huge advantage with doors where making small adjustments in registration is essential. It also makes it possible to remove everything, should the need arise.

where do you get your velcro thou? jw because ive had alot of issues with heat and adhesive failure on my car

[Rudeboy 152]

where do you get your velcro thou? jw because ive had alot of issues with heat and adhesive failure on my car

Velcro makes it for me - high temperature, vinyl compatible adhesive.

[Shogen 325]

still gotta get my mlv and ccf.... also a few more cld tiles too..

[helotr3vor 6]

Hey Don im looking to sound deaden my front doors of my 2010 Audi A4. Ive never ordered your stuff so I'm not sure all I'll need. I have an fi Q 12 with 1200w. My front stage is going to be upgrade while still using my factory amplifier to power them. What do you recommend for deadening both front doors properly?

Thanks for the help,

Trevor

[Rudeboy 152]

It doesn't take a Rocket scientist, or Don in this case to tell you it could be both your door panels and plastic snaps or either. No way for someone across the country to be able to pinpoint your exact source of rattling.

Get a few clds to control panel flex, a layer of mlv (if you want to deaden it, door panels already off mine as well do it.), and ccf to decouple the plastic panel from sheet metal.

You could even get some of the butyl to put on your plastic snaps so there not shaking about.

At least that's what I would do

He's only 200 miles from here - you're the one who's across the country

Since installing my new components, I have been hearing fairly prominent rattling coming from my doors. I was just wondering if this rattling has to do with my panels resonating or could it just be the plastic snap on peices that come standard in most vehicles (window controls and surrounding plastic pieces)? If it turns out to be my panels, would the CLD tiles be enough to significantly reduce the resonating?

It really isn't impossible to diagnose the problem without a lot more information, maybe not without actually seeing the dor. OTOH, it should be pretty easy to diagnose for you. I'd start by creating the rattle and pressing my hands against the trim panel. If that solves the problem we'll have a pretty good starting point. If not, press your hands against the outer door skin. If that doesn't solve it, you'll have to remove the trim panel and poke around.

It's possible to just add some vibration damper or other products and hope to solve the problem but it's much better to actually know what you're dealing with before you treat it.

[iacon 0]

Hey Don, i sent you an email the other day about what you would recommend for a 94 celica.

[somenamehere 0]

Don I sent an email a couple days ago about a future order. If you could get back to me that would be great.

[nem 2,019]

Don I sent an email a couple days ago about a future order. If you could get back to me that would be great.

Where in PA are you?

[lithium 358]

Don I sent an email a couple days ago about a future order. If you could get back to me that would be great.

Don should get back to you shortly, very busy guy

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Just emailed him the link just in case.

[Impious 1,476]

Don I sent an email a couple days ago about a future order. If you could get back to me that would be great.

Just as an FYI, this is a message Don just posted on another forum a few hours ago. I hope he doesn't mind I'm posting it here, but it explains why it can sometimes take him some time to respond to a message:

Thought I'd stop in ans apologize again I am sorry that I've missed so many messages. I'm trying to find a solution but am really just up against the number of hours in a day. I'm trying to find a way to get the huge amount of content I have "almost ready" up on the site. That should reduce the amount of time I'm spending on e-mail. As it is now' date=' I get about 50-60 new messages a day. Some are: "how much for this, this and that" which take about 10 minutes each. Some are: "This is what I'm trying to do" and they can take 10 30 minutes and some time multiple 10-30 minutes. 9-10 hours a day ain't getting it done and I still have 4-8 hours worth of packing, receiving, etc.

Here's a great example. A customer drove 5 hours each way to treat his truck. I almost never do these projects myself because they take so long. It was a crew cab I hadn't seen before so I wanted to do it. I also wanted to try an idea I had for the rear vents.

Anyway, I worked on e-mail for a few hours on Saturday. He arrived and we worked 12 hours Saturday and 12 hours on Sunday. After he left, I went back to the computer and had 207 new messages.

I'm probably going to have to shut down for a few weeks to try to get a handle on things. I don't want to raise prices to cover adding people to the operation and I don't want to just tell people to figure things out on their own without giving them the tools to do it.

I do understand how aggravating this must be. I don't want to conduct business on this or other forums, but if I've missed your attempt(s) to reach me, PMing you e-mail address will move you to the top of the line, unless that gets overwhelmed too - in which case I hope I've got things sufficiently automated to handle it [img']http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/smile.png