Broken case on 250XP. New Design in the works?

[DC Power Kyle 21]

I did. look again. That was right as I was leaving the parking lot so I didn't really give it time to recover but whatever. Maybe I'll make one on the freeway tomorrow.

[slim2fattycake 85]

I didn't watch yet since it was still being uploaded or whatever.

How many batteries do you have?

[DC Power Kyle 21]

1 XS D2700 in the front

2 Odyssey PC2250s in the back (http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc2250.htm)

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/102298/Photo%20Apr%2010%2C%2011%2009%2013%20PM.jpg

[DarkTinman 9]

Doesn't sound good, tuned in for details

Lol, which it was that exciting.

Burnt exhaust valve it sounds like at Tinman. Alt is working flawlessly. Thanks guys. Rests at 14.9. Old alt was like 14.4 bumping lowest I saw was 13.6 usually it's LOW 12s. Yesterday i was demoing alot and my Voltage was 12 flat lol. Once i see 11s i stop.I'll keep this updated as time goes on.Btw this is 2 saz 3500s strapped at .5 per amp. 4 XS 1200s and 1 5100... These batteries never had a good charging. For the months I've had them in they've just run off the stock alt... Since October. And trust me I've been beating on this system damn near everyday. That is all lol. DC POWA!!!

You should get an XS Power battery charger. Your alt isn't going to charge up depleted batteries.It would suck to ruin a great alt and batteries.

I know I know but my batteries aren't dead or anything. I shoulda picked up the new charger during the group buy but didn't have money really. I'll be getting the hf1215 soon though. My batts rest at 12.8 though but I'll get the charger for me and my teammates to use.Tinman I had a chipped exhaust valve that caused all types of problems for me. Get a leakdown test done.

Oh really? How much is a leak test gonna cost?

But I don't think this rough idling was happening before new alternator correct? Their have been tiny threads here and there on web that stuff like this happens when upgrading alternators.every car is different and can be a combination of things/sensors messed up but its always odd when before swap everything is cool :/As for smoke in back always take in line fuses out or all your stuff when going to mechanic's... I don't trust them sorry.

Nope not at all. Hopefully some of my trusted mechanics can tell me what the deal is though.

Yeah man, i will next time but i don't know what they could've done really.

Being your own mechanic ftw.

Lol wish i was that experienced...

Oh and here is the update, oh wait there is none! I had to go to work and i had my dad try and update me with news. But news did not come. We will be calling tomorrow. So gay...

Edited April 20, 2011 by DarkTinman

[DC Power Kyle 21]

Read my post up above for the rough idle ^^

[ssh 924]

Good videos Kyle. Always knew big alts put stress on little engines , always figured the car would compensate soon enough, forgot about disconnecting battery to wipe it clean.

What size engine is in your car? I think mine will be in for a hurting

[DC Power Kyle 21]

2.4l 2az-fe

[DarkTinman 9]

Yeah thanks kyle. Good to see it's not just my car. Thank you for the videos you posted.

Update: (LOL)

So... We took it in and pretty much he told us the same thing that kyle showed us. That the ECU needs to compensate and re-learn where the volts sit at and etc. So i pretty much wasted my time taking my car over and maybe even got a amplifier ruined! Wish i knew that this was going to be normal for the alternator to do this then i would've never taken it in.

[shizzzon 461]

that's not bad sag at all...

Now let's see what it does when you are pulling 1800A of current.. oh wait.. nvm, i'll just let u guys know when i buy my XP, hehe.

[Robert 9]

The thing is that my ECU takes forever to learn and by that time engine light is back on so disconnect battery to reset and REPEAT. I just get tired of undoing battery si I just drive with check engine light on all the time.

[DC Power Rob 4]

The thing is that my ECU takes forever to learn and by that time engine light is back on so disconnect battery to reset and REPEAT. I just get tired of undoing battery si I just drive with check engine light on all the time.

It's not your car that's the problem on this one.. What did they send you to bypass the PCM, or are you running the alternator off the PCM? I can help you fix it, just need more specifics.. Rob

[Rainman215 0]

Alt is running strong. I used to check it every few days to make sure there were no cracks or anything. I gave up lol. this ones a beast. Thanks for working with us Honda owners.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

I finally got around to installing the new alt/bracket. I was having my timing belt replaced last week and didn't want to install the DC alt until I got it back from the mech.

SO anyways, here are pic's of the install AND a list of things that still need improved.

THe gusseted bracket.

Here is the bone's I still have to pick. The kit you guys sent me BOTH times had the wrong bolt in the kit.

THe bolt needs to be 75mm long instead of 60mm and HAS THE WRONG THREAD PITCH. This is the thrid time I have told you this and its insulting that you keep sending me the wrong parts. The belt you sent me twice is also the wrong size. Insult #2 as I told you that twice also. Anyways, thats your deal if you guys want to do things half assed. I personally don't even get out of bed if I am NOT going to do things right.

A shot of the bracket's resting place with no force being applied. Needless to say the it doesn't line up. Obviously I had to force it to the alt or force the alt to it, which ever way you want to say it.

Lastly the plastic around the plug is not clearenced correctly. I was forced to have to trim to get the plug on.

I installed this before work yesterday morning and didn't have time to make the trim job pretty due to lack of time.

Not trying to be a dick, but would think you might want your customers feedback.

[DC Power Rob 4]

I finally got around to installing the new alt/bracket. I was having my timing belt replaced last week and didn't want to install the DC alt until I got it back from the mech.

SO anyways, here are pic's of the install AND a list of things that still need improved.

Not trying to be a dick, but would think you might want your customers feedback.

Duly noted. As I'm not the one doing these, I will make sure they get addressed.

As for the bracket itself not lining up, the jig we use to weld is an OEM bracket, I have NO idea how it's not dead on? The wrong pitch bolt, I will make sure we get some 10x1.25mm bolts in for those, but technically it's not even necessary as the stock bolt can still be used (and is better than any aftermarket bolt fwiw). As for the belt, I'm going to install one this week, I'll settle that one once and for all.

This car, and this setup has just been a pain in MY ass, as I get to deal with the feedback, and it's not getting implemented. Just one more thing I'm going to have to be a d*ck about internally, but it WILL get adressed.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

I will point out one obvious thing ( to me anyways), two out the other three ppl in this discussion have the Accord a generation before mine and the other guy (with an 02) bought his DC alt used. I assume your test car is that generation also? This could explain alot of the issues I had (other than the plug clearance). The bracket obviously works, just stiffer to manipulate with the gusset. Is it as good as it get's? No, but it works. (good enough for the girls i live with)

When I first went to install the bracket I used the bolt you guys provided and it was juuuust long enough to grab the first thread in the aluminum engine block, and then rip the top thread off. So I went to the store and got a longer one with the pitch you provided. I then when home to find out that that bolt wouldn't thread in. SO I compare the bolt to the OEM bolt (which is no where near long enough, but is 10.9 grade) and realize the wrong thread pitch is the problem. SO the I went back to the store and bought the correct length and pitch bolt, 10.9 grade of course. I also bought a thread tap to clean up the threads because at this point I didn't feel like any more suprizes. Then I go to install the belt you provided (which I didn't even expect in the kit anyways, so kudo's there) but it was to long. I reused the OEM sized belt that was on the car until I could get a new correct one.

Needless to say I would think you would want a smoother install for a customer. I am a VERY patient guy so I personally just take it in stride, but not everyone is that calm about things.

[harveywong 0]

My alt. and bracket were off a little too but not as much as yours, probably about half. I just used a washer to fill in the space.You don't want to force anything because that may cause the case to crack.

[DarkTinman 9]

My alternator was also hard to install. Like j-road said, the alternator had to be forced into place. Also the screws that i was sent never fit and i had to get new ones that threaded correctly. I didn't have a problem with the plug because mine is a bit different then J's.

Thanks for looking for problems and providing J-road!

Also, if you sell these alternators to other accord owners, could you explain the engine being bogged down, and the fact that the ECU has to adjust to it. That really freaked me out when i first put the alternator in. I had to take it into a shop and then was just told that it was just the alternator. Waste of money on my end but what did i know?

[DC Power Rob 4]

What I dont understand is that if these were all made on the same jig, on the same day, and the fact that our jig is an OEM Honda bracket how they are off?? From the (copious) research I did, every single F22 and F23 engine Honda made had the exact same bracket. I think I've had enough BS with this setup and since I dont have any orders, I will figure out something else in the meantime. What i will probably do is just make a billet case that uses the stock bracket which is what i wanted in the first place, but the dumbass hippie machinist wasnt smart enough to figure it out.. I can honestly say that mounting wise, this is the ONE vehicle that finally broke me...

Edited May 10, 2011 by DC Power Rob

[Robert 9]

The thing is that my ECU takes forever to learn and by that time engine light is back on so disconnect battery to reset and REPEAT. I just get tired of undoing battery si I just drive with check engine light on all the time.

It's not your car that's the problem on this one.. What did they send you to bypass the PCM, or are you running the alternator off the PCM? I can help you fix it, just need more specifics.. Rob

Rob sorry I missed this we can discuss this through PM personally I don't care what is said but I don't want to thread jack.

But to answer you I really don't know the inner working of the car. I assume CPU controls alt but mine came with a pot wire harness between alt and factory harness I set it to 15.1 cold and once car warms up it drops to 14.6 - 14.4 depending how hot it is outside. I will say that my car is in need of other sensor upgrades and when light used to kick on with OE alt autozone code readout was because O2 sensor would trip it on or throttle position sensor was bad. I replaced the TPS recently and just today was working on car and noticed the air charge sensor was not installed into air box. but that back in today left battery unplugged to reset CPU and no light has come on. I'm rebuilding audio from 1500rms to around to around 4000rms so their are alot of things that can be wrong car wise aside from anything that could possibly be wrong Alternator wise.

My car isn't a honda either but thanks for anything you have to teach me.

Edited May 10, 2011 by crunkjuice1

[Rainman215 0]

Weird the other owners had problems. Mine fit/works perfectly. Assuming we all got the same bottom bolt I guess I fucked up my threads lmao. Oh well.