headlights are still dimming

[stereohead69 0]

ok so i have a 2007 chevy impala with a 270 amp alt a yellow top up front 2 hc2400 kinetiks in the back as well as a hc3800 kinetik in the back as far as batteries so you all know all i am running is a powerbass 3000xa to my powerbass 3xl 12s 2 of them and a phoenix gold ti 500.4 old school amp to my mids and when i turn it up my headlights dim and i dont know why any help would be nice guys thanks.

[bassahaulic 155]

They dim because you have voltage drop. Simple as that.

The best way to fix this is to get H.I.D. Headlights, a lot of people hate them because kids don't readjust their headlights after they install them so they blind people. But H.I.D.'s do not dim.

The best place to get them from is www.ddmtuning.com

[Tirefryr 1,742]

They dim because you have voltage drop. Simple as that.

The best way to fix this is to get H.I.D. Headlights, a lot of people hate them because kids don't readjust their headlights after they install them so they blind people. But H.I.D.'s do not dim.

The best place to get them from is www.ddmtuning.com

People hate them because 99% of the idiots who install them, use the factory lenses which are designed for diffferent lamps. Even re-aiming the lights does not help; you still get the glare and blinding light.

. . . And how is removing his dimming headlights going to help with voltage drop? It just removes the dimming lights. He'll still have a voltage drop.

I'm going to guess it's a combination of a shitty alt, small cables, and improper grounding. You probably have belt slippage too as most companies send the alt with a smaller pulley which will necessitate a smaller belt, but they never tell you that as they depend on the tensioner to make up the slack. Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

I would check the grounds.

You should have plenty of electrical to back that amp up.

[bassahaulic 155]

They dim because you have voltage drop. Simple as that.

The best way to fix this is to get H.I.D. Headlights, a lot of people hate them because kids don't readjust their headlights after they install them so they blind people. But H.I.D.'s do not dim.

The best place to get them from is www.ddmtuning.com

People hate them because 99% of the idiots who install them, use the factory lenses which are designed for diffferent lamps. Even re-aiming the lights does not help; you still get the glare and blinding light.

. . . And how is removing his dimming headlights going to help with voltage drop? It just removes the dimming lights. He'll still have a voltage drop.

I'm going to guess it's a combination of a shitty alt, small cables, and improper grounding. You probably have belt slippage too as most companies send the alt with a smaller pulley which will necessitate a smaller belt, but they never tell you that as they depend on the tensioner to make up the slack. Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way.

I meant the best way to fix the headlight dimming, not voltage drop. lol

[CrazyKenKid 64]

so what is your voltage like in your car? do you have a voltage meter so you can watch the voltage?

it looks like you put a lot of money into your build but you didn't get a voltage meter so you can protect your gear? like if the voltage is dropping how low does it go and do you have an issue with your amp going into protect? also have you done the big 3 yet?

[altoncustomtech 773]

I read an article somewhere, (I'll see if I can find it) that stated the new ODBII systems have a ramp rate on the voltage regulator. In other words, it doesn't immediately change the output of the voltage regulator to keep up with the load. According to the article it had to do with some crap concerning emissions and the sudden drag on the engine. So it wouldn't matter how much battery and alt you had (unless you had a second that wasn't ODBII compliant) the voltage will always drop on sudden large current spikes like bass hits cuz the voltage regulator won't adjust that quickly.

Now, if the article is correct, there's your problem. Problem with the article is, I can't remember the source so I'm not sure of the accuracy of the info.

It makes some sense, but at the same time it's kinda hard to believe. I would go through EVERY regular troubleshooting step before assuming any of that information is correct. Another possible solution, if everything checks out, may be one of the XS Power VCM controllers.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

That could be an issue. Not all OBDII electronics are computer controlled though. I don't know which newer GM vehicles are or the extent of their control, but given the stupidity at GM, I wouldn't put this out of their realm.

[bassahaulic 155]

I read an article somewhere, (I'll see if I can find it) that stated the new ODBII systems have a ramp rate on the voltage regulator. In other words, it doesn't immediately change the output of the voltage regulator to keep up with the load. According to the article it had to do with some crap concerning emissions and the sudden drag on the engine. So it wouldn't matter how much battery and alt you had (unless you had a second that wasn't ODBII compliant) the voltage will always drop on sudden large current spikes like bass hits cuz the voltage regulator won't adjust that quickly.

Now, if the article is correct, there's your problem. Problem with the article is, I can't remember the source so I'm not sure of the accuracy of the info.

It makes some sense, but at the same time it's kinda hard to believe. I would go through EVERY regular troubleshooting step before assuming any of that information is correct. Another possible solution, if everything checks out, may be one of the XS Power VCM controllers.

That makes sense.

[altoncustomtech 773]

It kinda does.... I mean, almost everyone you hear of who still has dimming trouble after upgrading to a HO alt and adding an extra batt or two have some sort of GM built vehicle.

Damn, wish I could find that freakin' article.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

That's why you leave the stock alt in place and have a dedicated power supply for the system controlled however you choose.

[altoncustomtech 773]

In an ideal world that would be great. Some vehicles just won't allow for a second alt bracket without removing the AC compressor or something like that. My '98 Venture is one of them for example. No way in hell a second alt could be strapped to it without removing something, and lets face it. If it were a competition vehicle, who would give a rat's ass about AC, but in a family DD it's kind of a necessity.

[BanginGMC 23]

Big 3..

[audiolife 14]

I would contact Chris at Missing Link Audio. Some of those GMs they have a bypass for that may help it.

[stereohead69 0]

ok guys i love all the help you are giving me today starts my vacation for christmas so i have alot of free time to try diff things and will keep trying till i find the prob so keep the advice coming guys once again thanks.

[Cant Get Enough 6]

That's why you leave the stock alt in place and have a dedicated power supply for the system controlled however you choose.

I agree completely. I started by using the amp formula to determine total amps, upgraded all wires got a high output alternator and kenetiik HC1800 and had plenty of amps but still got dimming and after a second higher quality alt I still had dimming then I discovered my battery buldging and was pissed. Then after asking every installer in NoVA I came across one who told me that it's the car electrical system and the inconsistancies of the alternators especially the voltage regulator that was the problem. Even though I had "heavy duty" regulator with the high output they are simply not accurate enough to controll the voltage consistantly. In fact your car was designed to perform best with the factory alt and regulator and he only uses the amp hour method, plus 1000, instead of total amps for formulating the size of battery bank needed. After he calculated my car and amplifier he had me leave in the upgraded wire put my old battery back in (something to do with current draw away from the car) stock alternator back in and then install a battery bank between the stock battery and the amplifiers (HC2400). I now have absolutly no dimming, my amps run cooler, thermo protect hasn't kicked in since and highs are cleaner and bass hits harder I'm finally satisfied.

[Hzd Skizzy 27]

I actually agree with bangin here, looks like his answer was looked over but, in your post you don't have the big 3 done. You can't run 270 amps from that alt if you only have stock wire. Do the big 3 in 1/0 Awg and then see if it helps or not.

[edouble101 314]

That's why you leave the stock alt in place and have a dedicated power supply for the system controlled however you choose.

I agree completely. I started by using the amp formula to determine total amps, upgraded all wires got a high output alternator and kenetiik HC1800 and had plenty of amps but still got dimming and after a second higher quality alt I still had dimming then I discovered my battery buldging and was pissed. Then after asking every installer in NoVA I came across one who told me that it's the car electrical system and the inconsistancies of the alternators especially the voltage regulator that was the problem. Even though I had "heavy duty" regulator with the high output they are simply not accurate enough to controll the voltage consistantly. In fact your car was designed to perform best with the factory alt and regulator and he only uses the amp hour method, plus 1000, instead of total amps for formulating the size of battery bank needed. After he calculated my car and amplifier he had me leave in the upgraded wire put my old battery back in (something to do with current draw away from the car) stock alternator back in and then install a battery bank between the stock battery and the amplifiers (HC2400). I now have absolutly no dimming, my amps run cooler, thermo protect hasn't kicked in since and highs are cleaner and bass hits harder I'm finally satisfied.

Interesting. If I followed this post correctly your aftermarket batteries were the weak point. Too much drain to keep them charged. Basic stuff....

[Tirefryr 1,742]

I actually agree with bangin here, looks like his answer was looked over but, in your post you don't have the big 3 done. You can't run 270 amps from that alt if you only have stock wire. Do the big 3 in 1/0 Awg and then see if it helps or not.

The big 3 is always a good idea, but it is too over-hyped. You do realize this same wire is carrying over 500 amps while your car is starting yet you don't see manufacturers putting 2/0 in the car to handle that do you. The fact of the matter is, That alt will very rarely, if ever, be supplying 270 amps, much less be doing it at a constant rate, so many times stock wiring is fine.

[Shogen 325]

I thought the main reasoning for the BIG 3 was to allow for less resistance within the electrical support for whatever the purpose... Isn't that right?? Less resistance means more flow of power or the possibility to transfer that power more easily... which would help with dimming slightly?? as long as everything else in the electrical system is done properly??

[altoncustomtech 773]

I actually agree with bangin here, looks like his answer was looked over but, in your post you don't have the big 3 done. You can't run 270 amps from that alt if you only have stock wire. Do the big 3 in 1/0 Awg and then see if it helps or not.

The big 3 is always a good idea, but it is too over-hyped. You do realize this same wire is carrying over 500 amps while your car is starting yet you don't see manufacturers putting 2/0 in the car to handle that do you. The fact of the matter is, That alt will very rarely, if ever, be supplying 270 amps, much less be doing it at a constant rate, so many times stock wiring is fine.

I dunno about 500 amps. My 2007 Chevy 2500HD work truck with the 6.0L only pulls 180-200amps when starting, measured with a DC clamp on multiple times for some other testing we were doing to the truck. Plus that 180-200 was only for a second, maybe two, not near enough time to build any real heat on the stock wires. Even 500 amps, given it was only a short burst of a few seconds tops, wouldn't heat the stock size wiring up enough to cause any trouble. Don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing against your point, when it comes to current draw it's seldom ever at high rates for any period of time unless you're playing sine waves instead of music. BUT even so, the current draw whether it's 100amps or 400 amps is more efficiently transferred with the BIG 3. The first thing I noticed in my van when I did the BIG 3 was that it did indeed seem to start a little faster/easier as well as support the audio equipment better overall with less voltage drop than without it. While it could all be debated, one thing is for certain when it comes to current flow is that there's no way the extra capacity to flow will ever hurt anything.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

I was simply stating how people put too much emphasis on it, when in actuality it is not always needed.

[altoncustomtech 773]

LOL.... gotta love reading things on the internet.... I know and I agree, there is at times too much emphasis pointed to having it done.... and all I was really trying to say was that with the emphaiss aside, it doesn't hurt anything to have it done either.....

[ssh 924]

Wait I thought the big 3 solved everything

[shizzzon 461]

I havent seen this mentioned at all and i've seen this happen MANY times...

he said he has an Optima and many Kinetiks and 270a alt..

Optimas that are frequenctly charged over 14.4v AND that are mixed with different technology batteries will fail QUICK.

I cant even tell you how many people have stopped using Optimas because of this.

It is my belief that the OP should REMOVE the Optima COMPLETELY from the vehicle.

Get a DMM, remove ALL kinetik batteries and let them sit disconnected for a couple hours, then measure voltage on each batts terminals.

What i think is happening is this-

The kinetiks are dumping a load into the Optima because the Optima has partially failed.

In this state, it will ALWAYS be requesting a load.

If this battery has an independently lower voltage than the Kinetiks(which it will), then the kinetiks are trying to "charge" it when the vehicle is off.

This will cause the kinetiks to lower their voltage...

when the vehicle is on, all batteries are now low... so the ALT is trying to charge ALL batts and the stereo system.

this is a very likely scenario.

So.. remove ALL BATTERIES from vehicle and remove them from each other.

Test EACH battery after they have sit for a couple hrs and report voltage level.

I would also let that optima sit for 24hrs and remeasure voltage to see if it's changed.