wich fi sub should i buy ???

[eatmatkiller 0]

hi ! i would like to know wich FI sub would match the better with my amp to get the most out of it... ? I would like to go with 1 12", the enclosure size will fit on my back seat, that's why... so my amplifier is a kenwood KAC-9105D rated at 500 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (900 watts x 1 at 2 ohms) and 1ohm stable, the output regulated at 900 watts... and the last sub i got is a fck'n kenwood excellon who is the top of the line of kenwood and in 1 month i cooked the coils... : ( the sub was a 12" 600 watts rms and 2000 watts peak and is a dual 4 ohms. I am on my way to make a new setup : i would use a deep cycle battery and plugged the amp only on it and the amp to the subwoofer, would it be a good setup ??? i dont want to use a capacitor, am i doing right ??? i would use the specs of FI to make the enclosure... I want to get the most out of my amp with the bass boost that is +18 db's at 40Hz and my headunit is a pioneer premier that can push a lot of bass too ! I f i use a 16v battery, will my amplifier will have more outpout... ??? So please give me HELP !!!

Edited December 8, 2010 by eatmatkiller

[Hzd Skizzy 27]

If you get a 16v battery your going to need a very high powered alternator to keep feeding that battery. I would suggest you do not do that. Plus, I don't think the kenwood would take 16v very well. Alternator would need to be running at what, 17-18v to feed that batt? For us to suggest a sub, tell us your goals for your system. Like what do you want to acheive. For me, with that kind of power I would get an SSD 12 but that's just me.

Oh and by the way, you probably burnt the coils on your other sub by clipping it to death with the bass boost at +18. Not a very smart setting to have, when you don't know what your doing.

Edited December 8, 2010 by Hzd Skizzy

[brandonf 9]

If you get a 16v battery your going to need a very high powered alternator to keep feeding that battery. I would suggest you do not do that. Plus, I don't think the kenwood would take 16v very well. Alternator would need to be running at what, 17-18v to feed that batt? For us to suggest a sub, tell us your goals for your system. Like what do you want to acheive. For me, with that kind of power I would get an SSD 12 but that's just me.

Oh and by the way, you probably burnt the coils on your other sub by clipping it to death with the bass boost at +18. Not a very smart setting to have, when you don't know what your doing.

I used to use an earlier version of that amp, not a bad amp.. take your pick, a Fi ssd/q/bl/btl will all sound great, but it sounds like you are going to want the bl or btl. Despite how great the +18db at 40hz bass boost sounds to you, DO NOT USE IT (unless you want new subs again). And you have quite a bit of reading before even looking at 16v batts, doubt the kenwood will run on that power anyway.

[eatmatkiller 0]

thank you hzd skizzy, but i dont want to run the batt on the car i have a charger at home so that's why i want to use a deep cycle battery, so i can always charged that battery... on the amp specs it says 16v allowable but will it give more outpout... ??? what i want is to have the more bass, the more DB'S. I am not doing spl comp. but i push my sub real hard everyday. I am a Bass head and what i listen to is music with a lot of bass like : Bass MekaniK and a lot of rap / hip-hop music... You think a SSD would be enough it is only 800 watts rms and my amp is 900 watts rms and i already blew a 2000 watts peak and my amp is only 1800 watts peak... ??? Thank you for your help : )

[jcarter1885 995]

Please do more research on car audio before buying anything. You cant just buy a 16volt battery and run your amp at 16volts. Yes running amps at 16volts or 18volts (if allowable) will increase output but you have to have a seperate setup for that in your car as your car cant run on that voltage level. Way too much work if your not going to be competing seriously, for daily it is not logical.

[Hzd Skizzy 27]

thank you hzd skizzy, but i dont want to run the batt on the car i have a charger at home so that's why i want to use a deep cycle battery, so i can always charged that battery... on the amp specs it says 16v allowable but will it give more outpout... ??? what i want is to have the more bass, the more DB'S. I am not doing spl comp. but i push my sub real hard everyday. I am a Bass head and what i listen to is music with a lot of bass like : Bass MekaniK and a lot of rap / hip-hop music... You think a SSD would be enough it is only 800 watts rms and my amp is 900 watts rms and i already blew a 2000 watts peak and my amp is only 1800 watts peak... ??? Thank you for your help : )

I'm sorry I may be misreading but let me try and get this straight. You do NOT want to hook up the battery to the alternator? You want to charge the battery then play a lot of music and come back home and charge it again? Or you want this insde of your house? Sorry if I misread something.

@ Brandon: I didn't say kenwoods were bad. And yes, the easy route is to just pick 1 sub out of the line, but each sub is made differently for different purposes. But I'm saying SSD because it doesn't look like he wants the sound quality of the Q, The BL could be an option, BTL could also be an option but I still stand by the SSD. Best bang for his buck if he's only going to be running that kind of power.

[eatmatkiller 0]

hi ! Brandonf and hzd skizzy, thank you for your help so i will maybe just get a ordinary 12V deep cycle battery, to be sure and on my last sub the bass bosst was at the half so thats maybe why, i will turn it off good advice ! I am looking more for the FI bl 12 just to be sure to dont cook the coils... : (

[Duran 387]

"Peak power" is a fairy tale

[brandonf 9]

I quoted the wrong post, my bad.. I wasn't disagreeing with anything in your post, Hzd Skizzy, nor did I recommend the Q in this case. : )

@OP: You likely won't 'cook the coils' on the BL as long as you set the gains correctly and disable the bass boost. There's quite a few great articles on here about 16v electrical setups (in this case why you shouldn't), how to properly set gains, good batteries to use in car audio, etc that you should read up on before purchasing any products. Before you purchase anything expensive, learn from your previous mistakes! I'm personally shocked I didn't ruin more subs/amps in my previous years, the crap I tried from believing other people I knew.

[eatmatkiller 0]

yeah i toughth you were missreading... i dont want to run the battery on the alternator i want to charge it everytime the battery is empty and it is for my car... and yes i am looking a liitle bit more for the BL 12 and i want to know if i bought this one with the flatwind and 4" coils options, can i run this sub with the bass boost or will it cooked like the last one... ??? i want a sub that got bass to hurt real hard, i want to feel it inside of me ! i am a bass head and i like when the sound quality is good, i dont want to be affraid to turn up the volume... HELP ME !!!

Edited December 8, 2010 by eatmatkiller

[eatmatkiller 0]

OK I WILL DISABLE THE FUCKN BASS BOOST ! THANK YOU FOR YOUR ADVICDE... I am a french canadian guy, so its hard to find stuff in french on the subject ! but ill do my best in english. i am going to do some search on the forum... yes maybe a Q 12 would do the job too, but wich one to decide on Q12 or the BL 12 wich difference they have if they are rated the same power... ???

Edited December 8, 2010 by eatmatkiller

[smashedz28 110]

you dont need that bass boost, just turn it all the way down and forget it

Edited December 8, 2010 by smashedz28

[bimmerboy 3]

OK I WILL DISABLE THE FUCKN BASS BOOST ! THANK YOU FOR YOUR ADVICDE...

[Hzd Skizzy 27]

yeah i toughth you were missreading... i dont want to run the battery on the alternator i want to charge it everytime the battery is empty and it is for my car... and yes i am looking a liitle bit more for the BL 12 and i want to know if i bought this one with the flatwind and 4" coils options, can i run this sub with the bass boost or will it cooked like the last one... ??? i want a sub that got bass to hurt real hard, i want to feel it inside of me ! i am a bass head and i like when the sound quality is good, i dont want to be affraid to turn up the volume, to blew my sub... HELP ME !!!

A BL will destroy that old setup if given a good custom ported box. Also, I really don't think it is a good idea to run the battery by itself. If you play your sytem a lot and plan to turn off your car I would have a friend with jumper cables close by at all times. Plus, you would in fact have more output if you hooked up to the alternator. A normal 12v battery will rest at 12.3-4v which means it will give the amp around 12v. With the alternator hooked up, it will provide more power and keep that battery charged and with the alternator you'll be running around 14v thus providing more output.

Your old sub probably died because of clipping which is having you amp pull more than your car can give. With the bass boost up like that, it sure does help. Clipping will cut off the top and bottom on sound waves and distort and eventually kill the sub.

Not trying to be mean but without having your alternator hooked up and the bass boost up like that, you are setting yourself up for disaster and a complete loss of money.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

SSD, no bass boost, set gains correctly

forget about the 16v bat, you may not even need another 12v.

There is no way you can charge any bat without an alt.

edit to add you can charge a bat with a charger, but it will discharge in no time. yo uneed it on an alt.

[Hzd Skizzy 27]

OK I WILL DISABLE THE FUCKN BASS BOOST ! THANK YOU FOR YOUR ADVICDE... I am a french canadian guy, so its hard to find stuff in french on the subject ! but ill do my best in english. i am going to do some search on the forum... yes maybe a Q 12 would do the job too, but wich one to decide on Q12 or the BL 12 wich difference they have if they are rated the same power... ???

Q is more sound quality related.

You can read the descriptions on Ficaraudio.com

[Notorious97200 339]

Sir Lancelot told you what to do .

That amp will not hurt your electrical. Do the Big 3 (search big3 on the forum) if you want to be really safe. Use 0 ga wire from your hood battery to the back. You will not need a second one in the back with less than 1000 watts rms !

And yes, SSD or BL.

[manrossdamn 57]

You're scaring me, if you were a basshead, you'd know the simple basics of car audio.

Ex; powering the amp, tuning, big 3, the things about different subs, and a bunch of other small things.

But you're over here saying that you do NOT want to hook up the alternator to the battery?

How is that supposed to be "better" for your truck?

I don't see the big picture here besides you having to pay another 200-300$ for a new battery, plus your alternator charges the battery keeping it at a constant 13.4-14.4v.

You're also being a douche by posting "I'LL TURN OFF THE F*****N BASS BOOST". Well, you don't neccessarily have to turn it off, just learn how to tune it.

[eatmatkiller 0]

Ok yes i am new into car audio but i can love bass too, maybe a bit too much costing me my last sub... let me tell you something... this is the setup i was using : i passed a 4ga wire from the bettery (under the hood) straight to the trunk of the car where my amp was. I placed at 6 inches from the battery on that same wire a 80AMP fuse to protect from shorts. so the alternator was feeding the battery when the car was running and i wasnt using my stereo when the car was off because it wouldn't restart. Because even when the car was running the interior lights and the headlights were dimming alot. The thing is i don't really want to invest into a H.O. alternator because when the car is scrap you can do nothing else with the alt... The other 4ga wire was the groung of the amp was bolted in the trunk, it is straight on metal no rust or paint chips... that cause sometimes a bad ground... i was using 8ga wire from the outpout of the amp to my enclosure... and another little wire from the head unit to signal the power to the amplifer when to turn on and turn off... and 1 pair of of audio cables from the head unit to the line in of the amplifier...

[manrossdamn 57]

Your alternator is probably fried now, if you've been sending a clipped signal to your amp as everyone else is saying, then well.

Go get a replacement alternator, your only choice, then to retune your setup.

You could also have a bad ground, or some sort of short along the lines of your car setup.

[manrossdamn 57]

Maybe a new battery would be called for too, considering that you had your gain's and boost set up wrong.

Oh and did you know how you wired your subs? What ohms?

[eatmatkiller 0]

thank you manrossdamn for your advice... yeah the car still run and the alt can maybe fried ??? i think thte oem alternator is a 105/70AMP if i replace it with a 140/80AMP do you think the lights will stop from dimming... ??? cause i checked out the price of an 200/125AMP H.O. alternator... is something like 450$ i dont'think the battery is to replece i think is still good. i think it is just because the alternator is not feeding enough juice to the amplifier... and my last sub was a dual 4 ohms kenwood excellon...

[eatmatkiller 0]

if you have good places to found H.O. alternator or on the net... ??? and how the sub was plugged, the amp i got the KAC-9105D has 2 speakers outpout, so i wire each pair to a voice coil. SO the amplifier should put out 500 Watts rms at 4 ohms so 250 watts rms per outpout and the sub was 300 watts rms per voice coil... ??? and tell me if i am right about the FI subs... : the DDS and the Q is more sound quality related and the BL and BTL is more about SPL... ???

Edited December 9, 2010 by eatmatkiller

[manrossdamn 57]

Were your subwoofers dual voice coil, single, what ohms, how were they wired on the internal of the box?

Just need a little more info.

[eatmatkiller 0]

it is a dual voice coils, a dual 4 ohms and in the box they were wired separately each voice coil to an outpout of the amplifier...