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drewlrox

Fi sub as H/T sub?

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I just like to set the bar really high for my designs, and it seems to be paying off, yet another enclosure I designed was featured on CAE again as an install of the week.... I'm loving it!

The design looks great, and it should get wicked low. Have you thought about how you are going to finish it, yet?

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Good luck :)

I just read this thread.

Hope to see a build log!

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Is this going to give me any problems? more then half my use is going to be for music!!!

The delay will be inaudible.

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I just like to set the bar really high for my designs, and it seems to be paying off, yet another enclosure I designed was featured on CAE again as an install of the week.... I'm loving it!

The design looks great, and it should get wicked low. Have you thought about how you are going to finish it, yet?

Im allready going over budget so im going to just run it as a big ugly box until i can afford to finish it.

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I just like to set the bar really high for my designs, and it seems to be paying off, yet another enclosure I designed was featured on CAE again as an install of the week.... I'm loving it!

The design looks great, and it should get wicked low. Have you thought about how you are going to finish it, yet?

Nvm i pirated that cutmaster program real quick and it looks like i need 3 sheets.

Edited by drewlrox

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This looks like it will be interesting. 10 cubes is huge!

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At 10 cubes, with a tune of 22 hertz, I think you will be literally blown away when you crank that beast up on some super low stuff, with movies with a lot of LFE, or songs like "the bass will destroy you". I know I love it on my setup. Did you order the sub and amp already?

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At 10 cubes, with a tune of 22 hertz, I think you will be literally blown away when you crank that beast up on some super low stuff, with movies with a lot of LFE, or songs like "the bass will destroy you". I know I love it on my setup. Did you order the sub and amp already?

Not yet but I will be ordering within the next 3-4 days. I can't wait to hear it either :) the main reason I am building it is because the Mfw-15 I have now is built with very unreliable parts, I'm on my 2nd driver and as of yesterday 3rd amp (cap blew) the company that makes it went out of business so no more replacement parts :( biggest waste of $600 ever. it does perform decently though. I'm positive this DIY will laugh at it though :D can't wait to hear it the first time.

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At 10 cubes, with a tune of 22 hertz, I think you will be literally blown away when you crank that beast up on some super low stuff, with movies with a lot of LFE, or songs like "the bass will destroy you". I know I love it on my setup. Did you order the sub and amp already?

the bass will destroy you sounds preety badass on my mfw 15, I CANT WAIT to see what the 18 does w/ this song :D its gonna screw up my foundation or something lmfao.

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I have found yet another option for an amp. the newer EUROPOWER EPX2000 http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/EPX2000.aspx looks like it might work out great. it has a lower input voltage and rca so it will work with a standard pre out for sure (2 birds w/ 1 stone :D). I haven't found any tests on the true rms output but anything above 1000w should be PLENTY for use in a home. it looks like I can find it for about $300 on ebay. looking on hts forums it looks like some people are allready using them for diy subs and they work just as good as the older models.

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Just placed the order for my Q (18", D2, Cooling, Yellow dust cap) hopefully placing the order for my amp (Behringer EPX2000) tonight. I called the lowes by me and told them what I was building and they said if I bring in cutsheets they would be happy to cut the mdf to spec for me :) the Cutmaster 2D sheets should be perfect. ordering terminal cups, wire, and screws from Parts Express. Do I need filling?

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I usually use Drywall screws for the box, they are super cheap and grip very well. As for the filling, I try to keep it around 1/2 pound per cubic foot.

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I usually use Drywall screws for the box, they are super cheap and grip very well. As for the filling, I try to keep it around 1/2 pound per cubic foot.

already ordered 200 "cabinet screws" off parts express, it was only like $3-$4 for 200 1 1/2 inch screws (couldn't decide between 1 1/2 or 2" screws but went w/ 1 1/2) also got some nice 12 gauge wire, gasket tape,and 2 terminal cups (I want to be able to switch wiring configs between 1 and 4 ohm externally) all for $30 w/ shipping. Do I "need" filling? I am definitely already spending more then i want to. if i do need damping is there any super cheap alternative rather then buying damping? i got a GREAT deal on the amp. everywhere i saw them they were about $350. and since its a newer amp the very first one to ever go up on ebay as used (i think) according to finished listings search went up for $225 w/ $30 shipping just a few hours ago. in perfect condition too!. the guy said he used it as a diy amp to push 2 subs also and had it in a rack/case thing. so i jumped on the deal and ordered that. going up to lowes tomorrow to pickup silicone and mdf/get it cut.

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go to goodwill or the salvation army, and pick up a few pillows to stuff in the enclosure, about 4-6 should work nicely for a 10 cube enclosure. super cheap and your recycling something that most people wont buy. shouldnt be more than 5 bucks there.

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go to goodwill or the salvation army, and pick up a few pillows to stuff in the enclosure, about 4-6 should work nicely for a 10 cube enclosure. super cheap and your recycling something that most people wont buy. shouldnt be more than 5 bucks there.

All right, sounds.... almost too simple haha. whatever works right!

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Thats what 90 percent of people do in the HT forums when building a sub, except they buy their pillows at walmart. I say, fuck walmart, they are killing this country quicker than a plague.

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Im not positive if im going to be able to use a router for my cuts :( i have a jigsaw and may have to use that. my question is i originally planned on cutting the inner baffle to the normal size and outer larger so sub would be more flush w/ wood. but since im using a jigsaw and its hard to make perfect cuts is the outer ring going to look like crap next to the perfect circle of the sub? if i use a jigsaw would it be better to just cut both sheets to sub diameter? also will mounting the sub with regular screws have any disadvantages over using t nuts?

Edited by drewlrox

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You will have more wood to bite into and grip with 2 layers, I'm not a huge fan on double baffling a box, just so the driver can be flush mounted, that defeats the advantage it offers. I'm all about reliability/durability first, and cosmetics last.

T-nuts are picky beasts, they usually tend to rip themselves out of the wood after removing and installing the speaker a few times, in my experience. There are a few styles of t-nuts that do work rather well, but they are expensive, and I haven't been able to find them lately. Maybe some body else can chime in and recommend some for you.... If you go with 1.5 inch thick baffle, just use screws, it will be more than enough, unless the screw breaks. I have had a few break with my 18's, but I have never had one back out or rip out of the wood. I just need to get higher grade screws.

Edited by The SSD Madman

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You will have more wood to bite into and grip with 2 layers, I'm not a huge fan on double baffling a box, just so the driver can be flush mounted, that defeats the advantage it offers. I'm all about reliability/durability first, and cosmetics last.

T-nuts are picky beasts, they usually tend to rip themselves out of the wood after removing and installing the speaker a few times, in my experience. There are a few styles of t-nuts that do work rather well, but they are expensive, and I haven't been able to find them lately. Maybe some body else can chime in and recommend some for you.... If you go with 1.5 inch thick baffle, just use screws, it will be more than enough, unless the screw breaks. I have had a few break with my 18's, but I have never had one back out or rip out of the wood. I just need to get higher grade screws.

alright cool, using my jigsaw should i cut both layers at once or separately?

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I think you will be better off cutting them separately, your jigsaw will probably be a bit overwhelmed trying to cut through 1.5" MDF.

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i use a 1/16 inch but for predrilling the holes, and then I use elmers or titebond wood glue. you can also go with pl premium, but it is more expensive, and a bit messier.

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