School Me On The Theory behind 10% equipment and 90% Install

[funbogie 0]

Hey guys. Now that i have my new sub and amp on the way (SKAR Audio 12" subwoofer and Sundown Audio SAX-1200D), i wanted to post a thread that might ask for clarification on the theory of what everyone refers to as " 10% is the Equipment and 90% is the Installation". What exactly does this mean? I mean, obviously, i would imagine that the box within which you place your subwoofer will make a huge difference. The grade of wiring you use will make a difference. All of the level adjustments made on the amplifier will make a big difference. I just want to ensure that i get the best sound out of my new purchase, and if 90% of what is to be expected is in the installation i want to make sure I do it RIGHT. Just a little background to help anwer the question: 2005 Civic 4 Door, KnuConceptz wiring all around, stock electrical, Polk MM Components up front ran off a 125 x 2 RMS Soundstream Amp passive. The rear stage is stock and faded towards the front. On the way are my SKAR 12" subwoofer and Sundown Audio SAX-1200D. I plan to put this sub into a 1.75 CuFt ported enclosure tuned somehwere between 33hz and 36hz. I am going to run the sub at 2ohms, so about 750 RMS.

Any and all suggestions are welcome. I am not totally new to car audio, just trying to do this set-up right this time and learn along the way. Thanks guys.

[sefugi 166]

From the sound of your post you have the understanding of "install dependent" You mentioned you are not new to audio, but if you have not heard of the BIG3: read up at this link, it will help out with any electrical and give ground work if you upgrade any electrical in the future.

Keep reading, as I can tell you have, we can allways learn something to enhance are skills with installs. Good Luck!!

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

[Randal Johnson 544]

to SSA Bro !!!

[scottxgtr 9]

"10% is the Equipment and 90% is the Installation" just means you can spend as much money as you want, but if you clip the amp or your box isnt built to specs, then even the most expensive equipment can sound like shit.

welcome to the boards. youll find lots of valuable information here

[Shogen 325]

Good luck. And everything view all said. :-)

[Duran 387]

You can spend 10K on the "best" equipment, install it wrong and be stomped on by someone who spent 1K.

Tell us about your enclosure, that will make or break your sub system.

[funbogie 0]

You can spend 10K on the "best" equipment, install it wrong and be stomped on by someone who spent 1K.

Tell us about your enclosure, that will make or break your sub system.

Well, to be honest, i know very little about how and why a certain enclosure performs the way it does. I mentioned that i would be using a 1.75 cuft ported enclosure tuned to between 32 and 36hz because that is what is recommended for the sub. I would love to learn more about how to read the parameters of a particular subwoofer and make a custom box specifically for it. I have been doing some research, but it is still "sinking in to the brain" if you know what i mean. Since i have a trunk car, i was planning on having the subwoofer and port rear firing toward the back of the car. Does it make a difference which way the port is facing, ie. the side of the trunk or the back? Should i trust that the sub should be placed within a 1.75 cuft ported box just because that is what the website says? I am planning on having a shop build me a custom box for the woofer. I think that might be safer due to my poor wood working skills. It appears that i can have one built for about $125 from a dealer who sells primarily sundown audio gear. I have attempted box building before, i had a 15" AQ SD2.5, and i was not pleased with it even though i built it to the specs suggested by AQ. Most likely an error on my part during the build. What advice can you offer in this area?

Thank you ahead of time for your input!

[funbogie 0]

From the sound of your post you have the understanding of "install dependent" You mentioned you are not new to audio, but if you have not heard of the BIG3: read up at this link, it will help out with any electrical and give ground work if you upgrade any electrical in the future.

Keep reading, as I can tell you have, we can allways learn something to enhance are skills with installs. Good Luck!!

Thank you for link and info. I have heard and read about the big 3, but need to learn more. I will check out the link and plan on implementing this on my build.

Thanks everyone for all the welcomes to the site.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Look in the tech section on the home page for box designs.

Fi also has some in their section on here.

Or get a Kahotik !!!

[Duran 387]

You can spend 10K on the "best" equipment, install it wrong and be stomped on by someone who spent 1K.

Tell us about your enclosure, that will make or break your sub system.

Well, to be honest, i know very little about how and why a certain enclosure performs the way it does. I mentioned that i would be using a 1.75 cuft ported enclosure tuned to between 32 and 36hz because that is what is recommended for the sub. I would love to learn more about how to read the parameters of a particular subwoofer and make a custom box specifically for it. I have been doing some research, but it is still "sinking in to the brain" if you know what i mean. Since i have a trunk car, i was planning on having the subwoofer and port rear firing toward the back of the car. Does it make a difference which way the port is facing, ie. the side of the trunk or the back? Should i trust that the sub should be placed within a 1.75 cuft ported box just because that is what the website says? I am planning on having a shop build me a custom box for the woofer. I think that might be safer due to my poor wood working skills. It appears that i can have one built for about $125 from a dealer who sells primarily sundown audio gear. I have attempted box building before, i had a 15" AQ SD2.5, and i was not pleased with it even though i built it to the specs suggested by AQ. Most likely an error on my part during the build. What advice can you offer in this area?

Thank you ahead of time for your input!

It just takes time, if it makes you feel better about your woodworking skills, AQ and DD style woofers sound like poo, they are only made for loud.

For your enclosure, it depends on the shape of your trunk, however normally having the woofer firing back, towards your trunk lid and the port facing the side of the trunk performs the best, it takes testing, sometimes woofer and port forward into the cabin sealed off from the trunk works best, and other variations. Before you have the shop build your enclosure, post it up here so we can make sure everything is right. It's all too common for people to blame a woofer for not performing, when the enclosure is the limiting factor.

[funbogie 0]

Look in the tech section on the home page for box designs.

Fi also has some in their section on here.

Or get a Kahotik !!!

I looked at the khaotic enclosures, and they are super nice. But, the only 12" ported box they have is 2.50 CuFt. I am not sure that will work with the specs of my subwoofer? What do you think?

[funbogie 0]

You can spend 10K on the "best" equipment, install it wrong and be stomped on by someone who spent 1K.

Tell us about your enclosure, that will make or break your sub system.

Well, to be honest, i know very little about how and why a certain enclosure performs the way it does. I mentioned that i would be using a 1.75 cuft ported enclosure tuned to between 32 and 36hz because that is what is recommended for the sub. I would love to learn more about how to read the parameters of a particular subwoofer and make a custom box specifically for it. I have been doing some research, but it is still "sinking in to the brain" if you know what i mean. Since i have a trunk car, i was planning on having the subwoofer and port rear firing toward the back of the car. Does it make a difference which way the port is facing, ie. the side of the trunk or the back? Should i trust that the sub should be placed within a 1.75 cuft ported box just because that is what the website says? I am planning on having a shop build me a custom box for the woofer. I think that might be safer due to my poor wood working skills. It appears that i can have one built for about $125 from a dealer who sells primarily sundown audio gear. I have attempted box building before, i had a 15" AQ SD2.5, and i was not pleased with it even though i built it to the specs suggested by AQ. Most likely an error on my part during the build. What advice can you offer in this area?

Thank you ahead of time for your input!

It just takes time, if it makes you feel better about your woodworking skills, AQ and DD style woofers sound like poo, they are only made for loud.

For your enclosure, it depends on the shape of your trunk, however normally having the woofer firing back, towards your trunk lid and the port facing the side of the trunk performs the best, it takes testing, sometimes woofer and port forward into the cabin sealed off from the trunk works best, and other variations. Before you have the shop build your enclosure, post it up here so we can make sure everything is right. It's all too common for people to blame a woofer for not performing, when the enclosure is the limiting factor.

I definatlely will post up the specs before i have it made. I would love the input. Thank you for responding.

[Duran 387]

Look in the tech section on the home page for box designs.

Fi also has some in their section on here.

Or get a Kahotik !!!

I looked at the khaotic enclosures, and they are super nice. But, the only 12" ported box they have is 2.50 CuFt. I am not sure that will work with the specs of my subwoofer? What do you think?

2.5 cubes is on the large side, so if you decide you want a Khaotik Enclosure you can put some wood in there to displace some airspace.

[shizzzon 461]

part of the install is also how your vehicle is modified acoustically. Whether it be deadening it, sealing off areas, rounding and smoothing areas, directing sound to certain areas, etc..

[dbtravis 0]

you can make crap equipment sound good if you build a GOOD box, have it sitting right, and have the proper adjustment on the amps. thats what ive always been told