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rizzo30

FI Q15 Recone Question

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I went on a trip today and one of my subs stopped working. I noticed that one of the coils was no longer working. The coils were series so I just ran the one sub and eventually one of its coils stopped working also. I tested the coils with an ohm meter and each sub has a coil that reads open. Am I right that something like this is not covered under warranty? I am not really sure why the coil opened up since I was probably giving the subs no more than 1500 watts between the two. I also have a voltage meter in my car and noticed that my voltages stayed around 14 volts when the first one blew while on the highway. These subs are dual 1 ohm coils and I am powering them with two Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bd amps. The two amps are synced or bridged together with a bd sync cable so the two amps can combine to make one large amp. The subs were series ed to create a 4 ohm load which should have the amps together rated at 1500 watts rms bridged between the two together. When bridging two amps like this, can issues be caused with each amp trying to sync together while each is trying to produce half of the sign wave? I am just trying to figure out what could have possibly happened. I have a 200 amp alternator in my car and was driving at highway speeds on the interstate. Of course all of my wire is zero gauge and did all of the big three to make sure that is good while my voltages were constantly fine since they were in the 14 volt range.

Right now each sub still partially works on one coil. I am just trying to figure out what I need to do. I noticed that recone kits are a available. Do I need to buy one of those kits for each sub and recone them? If so is it possible to add the extra spider like I did when I originally bought these subs? These subs are the new 2010 model and I also assume that the other add on options that I selected when buying them such as cooling is all part of the basket/magnet structure part so I assume that I do not lose those features also.

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Those amps do not have an adjustable subsonic filter..

You probably played them below tuning over time and burned the tinsel leads up because of fatigue.

If you don't have a subsonic filter set 2-3Hz below tuning then no matter what sub you have or buy you are going to have nothing but problems. If it does actually have a long enough coil to move.

You can get a recone and do it yourself, or you can select 'yes' to send in sub on the recone page and send the woofer in and we'll do it for you. Regardless, if you do not get that adjustable subsonic filter then you are going to be right back here again, it's only a matter of time.

Just a fyi, the Q has the same amount of tinsels as the BTL. This only happens when things are set up improperly..it's like buying a new car and driving it on the interstate with the cruise control on and pointing it straight into a bridge...if you tell the car to go there, it will do it. A speaker is no different.

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Those amps do not have an adjustable subsonic filter..

You probably played them below tuning over time and burned the tinsel leads up because of fatigue.

If you don't have a subsonic filter set 2-3Hz below tuning then no matter what sub you have or buy you are going to have nothing but problems. If it does actually have a long enough coil to move.

You can get a recone and do it yourself, or you can select 'yes' to send in sub on the recone page and send the woofer in and we'll do it for you. Regardless, if you do not get that adjustable subsonic filter then you are going to be right back here again, it's only a matter of time.

Just a fyi, the Q has the same amount of tinsels as the BTL. This only happens when things are set up improperly..it's like buying a new car and driving it on the interstate with the cruise control on and pointing it straight into a bridge...if you tell the car to go there, it will do it. A speaker is no different.

Sorry but i'm running sealed so I do not have the issue of running below a tuning frequency. They are each in a 2.5 cubic foot sealed box. Thanks for your reply but playing below the tuning frequency has nothing to do with my issue.

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Then you clipped them to death and burned them up...too much loose nut behind the knobs :)

Speakers don't spontaneously combust...and those have the exact same amount of tinsel leads as the BTL's do. If you do something dumb then the speaker will burn up..it just does what you tell it to do.

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got my Q on ~1600 watts its quite happy. how did you set your gain? your EQ? are you using bass boost? bass boost or gain knob? loudness setting on the pioneer head units. x-over settings.

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got my Q on ~1600 watts its quite happy. how did you set your gain? your EQ? are you using bass boost? bass boost or gain knob? loudness setting on the pioneer head units. x-over settings.

Gain was probably 1/4 below max (which is where it would meet the headunit voltage) bass boost is not used, loudness is turned off, the sub was crossed over at about 80 hz and lower from the headunit. The amp did not clip and the voltages were totally fine.

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I'm thinking about running each sub off of its own amp instead of bridging the two amps together. I just believe that when you deal with a lot of power and a small issue happens with getting the amps synced then those issues can be quite severe on the subs. Anyone think that will be better than abridging or bd syncing two amps?

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got my Q on ~1600 watts its quite happy. how did you set your gain? your EQ? are you using bass boost? bass boost or gain knob? loudness setting on the pioneer head units. x-over settings.

Gain was probably 1/4 below max (which is where it would meet the headunit voltage) bass boost is not used, loudness is turned off, the sub was crossed over at about 80 hz and lower from the headunit. The amp did not clip and the voltages were totally fine.

There is you're problem.

Search the thread how to set gains with dmm and set you're gains correctly. ;)

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got my Q on ~1600 watts its quite happy. how did you set your gain? your EQ? are you using bass boost? bass boost or gain knob? loudness setting on the pioneer head units. x-over settings.

Gain was probably 1/4 below max (which is where it would meet the headunit voltage) bass boost is not used, loudness is turned off, the sub was crossed over at about 80 hz and lower from the headunit. The amp did not clip and the voltages were totally fine.

There is you're problem.

Search the thread how to set gains with dmm and set you're gains correctly. ;)

I'm confused. I already know that 2/3 of the way up is where the gain will meet my headunit preout voltage. I had the gains set lower than that even. Yes I have used a voltage meter before to set gains and thats how I know that 2/3 of the way up is about where the voltage is matched. I had them lower meaning that the amp would not have been clipping and it would not have even been working at its max.

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Then you used too much volume knob...

You can hear when a speaker is stressing :) it sounds like distortion..

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Yes, I do crank the volume knob all the way up. I do have a higher end headunit which I believe does not distort. I turned the gains all the way down on my high amps to try to hear distortion and I can not hear any even with the volume on it cranked all the way up. I try to configure my system so you can crank it all the way up without having anything distort. I have a Kenwood Xcelon 901 or similar model which I believe does not distort its preouts at all even when cranked. I know that its built in amp will probably distort when cranked, but I don't use that. I guess someone can correct me if i'm wrong about some headunits not distorting the preouts but I sure do not notice any. I have had Focal components hooked up to a 4 channel amp thats connected to it for over a year and they have never given me any problems.

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Everything will clip if you push it beyond it's limits.

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Everything will clip if you push it beyond it's limits.

Then why do people claim that the higher end head units with the higher voltage preouts do not clip? I have a 5 volt preout on my head unit. Other people on the net claim that the Kenwood Excelon head units can be cranked all the way to their max and their preouts will not clip. That is not to say that the amp won't but the head unit at least won't. From there the gains on the amp just need to be adjusted low enough so they do not clip.

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I decided to order an ocsilloscope. I did some reading and a lot of people around the forums recommend the Velleman HPS10-SE. I am going to use that to test the signals coming from the preouts and the speaker outputs to make sure that I will not have any clipping once I get the subs reconed. It costed about $160 shipped but that seems to be the only way to make sure that you do not have anything that will ever clip. That should also give me my answer to whether or not my head unit ever clips when I test it on test tones at 0db at 40 to 50 hz and also 1khz.

One thing that I did notice on the voice coil since I tore the cone out was that the voice coil seemed to be rubbing on the side. Part of the metal windings has rubbed off. Can that actually happen from clipping or would that be a manufacture defect? I had a grill over the sub so I know that one side of the sub was not hitting anything.

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.it's like buying a new car and driving it on the interstate with the cruise control on and pointing it straight into a bridge...if you tell the car to go there, it will do it. A speaker is no different.

this is the quote of the year hands down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

L M F A O!!! :roflmao: :roflmao:

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I decided to order an ocsilloscope. I did some reading and a lot of people around the forums recommend the Velleman HPS10-SE. I am going to use that to test the signals coming from the preouts and the speaker outputs to make sure that I will not have any clipping once I get the subs reconed. It costed about $160 shipped but that seems to be the only way to make sure that you do not have anything that will ever clip. That should also give me my answer to whether or not my head unit ever clips when I test it on test tones at 0db at 40 to 50 hz and also 1khz.

One thing that I did notice on the voice coil since I tore the cone out was that the voice coil seemed to be rubbing on the side. Part of the metal windings has rubbed off. Can that actually happen from clipping or would that be a manufacture defect? I had a grill over the sub so I know that one side of the sub was not hitting anything.

That sounds more like a shifted pole peice

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If your getting coil rub it failed mechanically and the motor shifter like said above, or you are pushing the sub beyond what the suspension can handle.

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