need info on OHM 's for Fi BTL . questions about future system. an

[PHATBOi 38]

Two of these ought to do just fine (and cost a HELL of alot less than the XS).

Deka Intimidator 9A31 Battery

[emh9009 199]

i wouldnt mind starting w/ a smaller system...but i just cant see payin for a BL with amp...then eventually buying a BTL with yet another amp.

Buy the bigger amp, you can turn the gain down to not blow a smaller sub up. It wont always be pushing max (advertised) wattage all the time. (if you do go this route)

OR another option for this route is to buy a small (ish) amp, say the 1000D from sundown, and then when you want to upgrade buy the same one and strap them together for power on the larger sub.

[swagger_wagon468 53]

o. kool. $615...much better. lol.

and its unlikely to go bad yes... but im thinkin i might-as-well get the headunit and speakers with 2x100 amp(after all the slectrical upgrades) so i can atleast anjoy some good sound quality while i save for the sub/amp/box... as my current stero consists of a stock radio w/ non working cd player. and 3 working speakers. hahaha kno what i mean?...

and holy half-price batman. those batts are lik1/2 the price of the xs's. do the dekas work almost as goood?

[emh9009 199]

And there are times where BTLs take longer to build because of customs not letting the magnets through. So don't order and expect it to be there Exactly at 11:35 AM one week from order date. There can be delays that are unexpected. Known to happen, understandable, yet still annoying.

[swagger_wagon468 53]

And there are times where BTLs take longer to build because of customs not letting the magnets through. So don't order and expect it to be there Exactly at 11:35 AM one week from order date. There can be delays that are unexpected. Known to happen, understandable, yet still annoying.

yea. i kno. lol. soooooo....

any other opinions on order if thiongs to get/install?

[Robert.Metzel 4]

IMHO, if you are buying a piece, then saving for the next piece, so on and so forth, I would start with the headunit and components first like you said. Because then you would have some decent sound to listen to while you saved for the next piece. Big 3 can be done at any time.

And I totally understand where you are coming from on the go big now. Starting off small is great, but more costly in the long run when you have to upgrade everything. So as long as you do it all right, you will be good to go.

[NDMstang65 403]

I'd suggest purchasing the sub last...because you can customize it for generally whatever scenario you have going on..

[swagger_wagon468 53]

IMHO, if you are buying a piece, then saving for the next piece, so on and so forth, I would start with the headunit and components first like you said. Because then you would have some decent sound to listen to while you saved for the next piece. Big 3 can be done at any time.

And I totally understand where you are coming from on the go big now. Starting off small is great, but more costly in the long run when you have to upgrade everything. So as long as you do it all right, you will be good to go.

EXACTLY. ok...so I AM A do the HU, then components with amp first.

question... i have tweeters that came stock on my armrests.

if i get a set of components, chances are that they wont fit right in there right?

[swagger_wagon468 53]

^typing error. caps lock and missing letters in 1st sentence. meant to say " i am gonna do". not I AM A do. lol. sorry

so, what r the chances of the tweeters fitting right into my stock tweeter spot?

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

How would we know if they fit?

Look up what size the tweeters are and look at your new ones. Crutchfield can prolly help.

HU, speakers, deadener, amp for the highs, batteries, sub & sub amp.

[swagger_wagon468 53]

How would we know if they fit?

Look up what size the tweeters are and look at your new ones. Crutchfield can probably help.

HU, speakers, deadener, amp for the highs, batteries, sub & sub amp.

lol i guess u wouldnt. wow, that was a stupid question of me . sorry. haha

i will go look on crutchfield now. love that site.

and im preetty much agreein with ur suggested list. so how hard is it to install deadener? and is dynamat the best? (i am about to google it. but i want opinions from personal experience)

[emh9009 199]

Deadener is peel and stick really. some variables. Go here http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi for some. RESEARCH! save some money!

[Second Skin 120]

Deadener is quite easy to install. Like Watts09 said the main part is peal and stick, and then there are extra things you can do if you want. Dynamat is a good product, however, at Second Skin our intro level mat is designed to be just as good if not better than the Dynamat Extreme, Dynamat's top of the line sound deadening matt, and it's less costly too. check us out at www.secondskinaudio.com. the mat i was just refering to is "Damplifier" and if you want to get even more amazing results you can go with our "Damplifier Pro." either way you're getting amazing results at very competitive prices. go ahead and let me know either on the forum or by sending and email to [email protected]. i hope we can help you out!

AX

Edited August 31, 2010 by Second Skin

[swagger_wagon468 53]

^thanks...i looked up tons how to's of sound dampening. and researched alot about it. and it looks like a bitch to intstall. not so much the doors. but the trunk(for me it would be the hatch cuz i have a wagon), floor, roof etc...

would the roof and floor be necessary? also would i need it on the rear doors that have no speakers?

also, i read that its best to have like a base then another layer. so this would be like (from second skin)... damplifier pro, then what? overkill pro?

also, either next paycheck or the one after... i will be getting headunit, speakers and amp for them. what are u guys opinions on rear speakers and speaker brands??? i will be getting compnents up front for sure. front has 6.5's and tweeters. and the back has 6x9's and tweeters. should i just disconnect and not worry about the speakers in the back all together? (ive had people tell me this) or get another set of components for the rear? what brands and models do you guys recomend for components. (now i dont wanna spend $300 a set on them)

thanks every1. SSA is an AWESOME forum.

-jonathan

Edited September 1, 2010 by swagger_wagon468

[Second Skin 120]

^thanks...i looked up tons how to's of sound dampening. and researched alot about it. and it looks like a bitch to intstall. not so much the doors. but the trunk(for me it would be the hatch cuz i have a wagon), floor, roof etc...

would the roof and floor be necessary? also would i need it on the rear doors that have no speakers?

also, i read that its best to have like a base then another layer. so this would be like (from second skin)... damplifier pro, then what? overkill pro?

the roof ad floor aren't necesary, you will notice significant results from just doing the doors, and it is better to do al 4 of the doors if you can since the more area you cover, the better results you'll get. what most of our customers notice is that when they deaden part of their car, the noise where they deadened is more or less gone, but since it's gone the noises from other parts orthe car seem louder(they aren't, unless something else has changed in the car, but it just seems that way). either way, you don't have to do everything in one sitting. if you decide to do your project piece by piece, i recomed starting with the doors, then trunk/hatch, then floor, then roof.

and yes you get better results using Damplifier Pro as a base and then applying Luxury Liner Pro on top of it. you see, there are two different types of noise; the airborne and the structure-borne. the Damplifier Pro takes care of the structure borne Noise while the Luxury Liner Pro covers the Airborne noise, and much like the different areas of your car, you don't have to do Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro at the same time, you can do the Damplifier Pro and then ad the Luxury Liner Pro later.

AX

[swagger_wagon468 53]

^thanks...i looked up tons how to's of sound dampening. and researched alot about it. and it looks like a bitch to intstall. not so much the doors. but the trunk(for me it would be the hatch cuz i have a wagon), floor, roof etc...

would the roof and floor be necessary? also would i need it on the rear doors that have no speakers?

also, i read that its best to have like a base then another layer. so this would be like (from second skin)... damplifier pro, then what? overkill pro?

the roof ad floor aren't necesary, you will notice significant results from just doing the doors, and it is better to do al 4 of the doors if you can since the more area you cover, the better results you'll get. what most of our customers notice is that when they deaden part of their car, the noise where they deadened is more or less gone, but since it's gone the noises from other parts orthe car seem louder(they aren't, unless something else has changed in the car, but it just seems that way). either way, you don't have to do everything in one sitting. if you decide to do your project piece by piece, i recomed starting with the doors, then trunk/hatch, then floor, then roof.

and yes you get better results using Damplifier Pro as a base and then applying Luxury Liner Pro on top of it. you see, there are two different types of noise; the airborne and the structure-borne. the Damplifier Pro takes care of the structure borne Noise while the Luxury Liner Pro covers the Airborne noise, and much like the different areas of your car, you don't have to do Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro at the same time, you can do the Damplifier Pro and then ad the Luxury Liner Pro later.

AX

thanks alot man. will doing this make my hatch not rattle like peoples trunks do? or is that another product? i HATE when i hear that rattle in my friends car.

[swagger_wagon468 53]

since im not getting many responses... how are these Image Dynamics CTX65CS 's ?ive been reading on them and they seem good overall. opinions?

ALSO, can i get them any cheaper from another authorized dealer?

thanks

http://woofersetc.com/p6201/CTX65CS--Image-Dynamics-65%22-Component-Speaker-System.htm

Edited September 3, 2010 by swagger_wagon468

[ssh 924]

since im not getting many responses... how are these Image Dynamics CTX65CS 's ?ive been reading on them and they seem good overall. opinions?

ALSO, can i get them any cheaper from another authorized dealer?

thanks

http://woofersetc.com/p6201/CTX65CS--Image-Dynamics-65%22-Component-Speaker-System.htm

You asking all these questions that don't even relate to your topic thread or section... Post a new topic for each individual question you have, and without flooding the forum

[swagger_wagon468 53]

since im not getting many responses... how are these Image Dynamics CTX65CS 's ?ive been reading on them and they seem good overall. opinions?

ALSO, can i get them any cheaper from another authorized dealer?

thanks

http://woofersetc.com/p6201/CTX65CS--Image-Dynamics-65%22-Component-Speaker-System.htm

You asking all these questions that don't even relate to your topic thread or section... Post a new topic for each individual question you have, and without flooding the forum

yea. true. i will post another thread. for now, this thread is done since im not doing it till atleast the new year.

thanks to everyone on their input

-jonathan

[Second Skin 120]

thanks alot man. will doing this make my hatch not rattle like peoples trunks do? or is that another product? i HATE when i hear that rattle in my friends car.

sound deadening your trunk will definately help eliminate the rattles in the hatch, just by using Damplifier Pro. if you can actually see what two pieces are rattling together, however, it's actually more effective to use something like Overkill or Overkill Pro and place some between the two objects.

AX