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CrazyKenKid

Duel inputs

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So I got boarded at work, while I was on night shift so I decided to design and make some duel inputs for an amp and i thought i would show you guys some pics! Also I will be giving 2 sets of these to Jacob for spl testing and what not! take a look let me know what you like and most importantly dislike and how i can improve the design.

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please note the flat also! i will be making a left and right hand version those are the left hand in the pic and also note the wire clamps in with 1/4 set screws!

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how much for a set?

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30 shipped lol! those are duel 1 awg blocks btw and the tit is 0.5'' (12.7mm) so make sure they will fit first lol also notice they mount left to right

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for an saz3k

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They look Awesome! What amp do you have that you set up your design for? This might help those that are interested. :fing34:

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well the input terminals on my saz2500 are 0.5 lol and they are 1/0 so i think they should fit!

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please keep in mind these are rough right now and i got about 8 more blocks unfinished so if i need to add something more or change my design i need some input on that.

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right now they are setup for the sundown 1/0 inputs so as long as other company keep the same input diameter for 1/0 inputs.. we should be good for almsot all brands

and if worst comes to worst lol it is only aluminum and a 2inch disk grinder can fix it quick! lol

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Love em, Might i suggest two things, One; Put a smaller gauge wire hole in it for Meters, or even multimeter pins, also i've noticed just using one bolt to hold large gauge wire is annoying try using one on top and on the side, makes a nice tough fit. Also PLEASE do not use Allen wrench screws! they are the bane of most of our existences, use flat head or better yet Phillips.

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My suggestion would be to make a hole for a screw on the one that goes in the amp. So it can not fall off or anything. Help become secure. And what Julian said.

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that is what I was looking for thank Julian for the input! I think I will add another set screw hole on the top (or bottom depending on the way you look at them) and pin holes now those are a nice idea!

would it be ideal to a set screw for those also? or maybe just a hole for them to slide into?

and for those holes maybe I will put them on the same face where the wires go into!

as for type of set screw i didn't even think of those, but i do know i have a ton of Allen key set screws to use at my disposal but i will look into the Philips set screws and see what i can get!

thanks! any more idea please pass them along!

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cheese what do you mean? put a hole into the tit so the set screw used would go into it?

for example if i drill a 0.281 (1/4 clearance hole) into the tit the set screw would go into the hole... see i thought about that and wouldn't it be to weak if i drill into the tit?

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should be fine, i would also do the hole on the tit. makes it less likely to wiggle out of the amp. and maybe don't go all the way through, just drill the hole and use a tap to make it thread in about halfway.

Edited by Brandon Daily

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good stuff man, and ya i know i would like Phillips screws more also, and the hole in the tits sounds like a good idea, even if it was more of a bump, just to make a more secure connection.... once you have these ready man ill want a few

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i dislike philips. The sole purpose of the reason why these became popular is to get the most current\voltage to the amp as possible. so overkill scenarios only for competition.

In competition, you must also torq down the HELL out of screws\bolts to make sure the current transfer is at it's highest point.

You can't torq down philips screws like that.. You can with allen heads though.

I only prefer High Torq Fine threaded allens with tools.

And i dont see the purpose of putting a hole on it for probes.... A probe will read any part of it.. it's conductive.

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Drilling on the the one that goes in the amp the 1/0 one. Because it is round so if it were to make a connection with the screw from the amp it would be more secure. And less chances of it fallin off

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actually, a flat base is all you need.

Aftermarket connectors are made like that and never had a problem.

The problem with tapping out a hole for the amp's screw is the hole has to be 100% vertical, better hope u never break the screw off inside the input block, and most importantly- if everything was done right, the screw would pull the block up which would loose partial contact from inside the hole. AND... if the hole isn't drill 1000% perfect, the cylinder may not even be all the way back inside the hole either when a screw is ran down into it...

So, it's better to not do that.

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every single allen wrench bolt has stripped out, its horrid, it happened on some of my amps, and fuse blocks

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thanks shizzzon for the input! i think i will just add another set screw hole on the bottom of the blocks and call it good! and i will not bother drilling into the flats for a screw to go into.

thanks everyone for your input! and viewing

now if anyone would like a set for 30$ shipped please p/m me and i will get a list made up of how many i have to make and go from there!! thanks again!

or e-mail me at [email protected]

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every single allen wrench bolt has stripped out, its horrid, it happened on some of my amps, and fuse blocks

oh i understand that, it's happened to me too, but the screws used to hold down wire in these blocks are not that small!

Plus u have the option of course or fine thread as well...

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currently they are course threaded i didn't even think to go fine thread!

o well for the next batch i will for sure! as for set screws i think i will stick with hex head (allen) and after some testing i may have to move from 1/4 to 5/16 depending on the demand and what not and how the 1/4 hold up!

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Hah alright, well i'm not a fan of allen wrenches, but as long as it's large, oh well, they tend to strip out for me.

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lol keep in mind this is aluminum it is weak steel already! so stripping once it happens it is bad lol

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ken im stealing your idea and getting my dad to make me one lol, ps i didnt know you were doing tool and dye?

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Steel(pun lol) away lol and I am not a hack and wack die guy I am a mold maker which is even more accurate then a die guy has to be

Our tolerance at our shop is on average 0.001-0.002" lol depending on the customer

This week alone I closed up 4 Chrysler and 2 BMW jobs LOL justt to name a few.

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