8" mid-bass drivers to keep up with xcon

[gadgeteer123 21]

I would like suggestions for some 8" mid-bass drivers that can easily keep up with my 15" xcon. I would prefer the cost to stay under $150. And to just let you know, I love mid-bass just as much as deep bass. I mean the mid-bass you can feel in your chest. From the 60-120hz range is what I need these to cover. Thanks

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

Lol. Welcome back.

Mounting depth?

Pics of your deadened doors?

Power!

Processing?

[gadgeteer123 21]

well I have a active and passive crossover. They can be in-between 100-200rms, Mounting depth isn't a issue just as long as it stays under 10". They can be either free=air or sealed, i prefer free-air but doesn't matter much, because they will be going into custom enclosures. but free-air makes it easier to transfer to different cars.

[gadgeteer123 21]

Also It can be a pair of mid-bass's or just one really good one. Because i have good mid-ranges i just need fill in that lower area.

[gadgeteer123 21]

What do you guys think of these??

Polk Audio MM840 Subwoofers - Car Subwoofers at Onlinecarstereo.com

or this for a little more output

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_23076_Polk_Audio_MM1040DVC.aspx

Edited June 28, 2010 by Small Town Audiophile

[ogjordan 0]

Used these in a few cars, and they are currently in my doors.........awaiting the intall of my own 15" Xcon........haven't heard them together, but the 8" are very very competent and I have no reason to think they won't keep up

Peerless 8

Edited June 28, 2010 by ogjordan

[gadgeteer123 21]

They don't seem bad, but i somehow forsee me ripping those paper cones. I like to push my speakers. I am also getting a electrical upgrade soon to handle all of this.

[onebadmonte 235]

On the cheap I would go with these.

Cheap 8" Mid-bass

Don't worry about the bucking magnet. You can pull it off and reduce the mounting depth.

If you want to go all out I don't think anything would beat this.

Bad Mofo 8" Mid-bass

Good luck with the project. Keep us posted on how it goes.

[gadgeteer123 21]

That second driver does look impressive. But will it be able to handle being cranked for long periods, and hit those drums and bass guitar notes with ease? remember my car can hit 142db when the xcon wasn't broke in with only a 100amp alternator. Now I have a bigger alternator on its way. I might get that second one, But I just want to make sure its what I want before I go spending the little money I do have. Also no one has said anything about that polk I found? I plan on crossing over this mid-bass/woofer to 60hz-100 or 120hz So it doesn't need to go that high. I want durability and output with decent accuracy.

[onebadmonte 235]

To answer you question about weather the 8" B&C driver can hang. The answer is yes. That being said, to get it to work I'd stick it in a box in the doors. Don't freak out when I say box. All you need is the minimum to cover the speaker. Here is a good read on how to make it work

Sub-optimum box

[gadgeteer123 21]

well there not going in the front there going in the rear next to the xcon in my wagon, in a simple square box.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

You will prolly need to bandpass that midbass to blend with your other components.

That B&C is sexy! I have been looking at that one myself!

[gadgeteer123 21]

well I was going with 8" because after a xcon being back there, there isn't much room left for anything else. i'm just curious but how would a bandpass help in this situation exactly??

[gadgeteer123 21]

I was checking out that B&C it seems efficient and responsive, but its frequency curve drops really fast at 150hz which is the highest not it would ever be hitting. I need something more deep mid-bass oriented.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

bandpass on the crossover brah!

You want to limit the frequencies the midbass plays and concentrate it on the midbass frequencies, then lowpass the subs and highpass the components. If you dont cut off the upper range of that midbass you will have a big peak in the midrange frequencies and it will sound like shit.

[gadgeteer123 21]

I was gonna add a 24db slope active crossover set at either 100hz or 120hz on the midbass.

[emh9009 199]

I was gonna add a 24db slope active crossover set at either 100hz or 120hz on the midbass.

then why are you worried about a drop off at 150?

[gadgeteer123 21]

it started dropping of in the lower area so it will only be hitting 150 and up with good efficiency.

[eggyhustles 33]

sls 8 is what i use

in your case, i would upgrade electrical first.

[eggyhustles 33]

Wait

why are you putting midbass in the rear?

sounds like another recipe for disaster

[emh9009 199]

it started dropping of in the lower area so it will only be hitting 150 and up with good efficiency.

Ahh, i read wrong.

X2 on electrical as the first, and top priority.

[gadgeteer123 21]

absolutely no room in front

[gadgeteer123 21]

and i'm not allowed to modify anything

The front speaker holes are 4x6 and I could make a 5.25" fit if I really wanted but thats all that can go up front.

Edited June 28, 2010 by Small Town Audiophile

[KU40 173]

They don't seem bad, but i somehow forsee me ripping those paper cones. I like to push my speakers. I am also getting a electrical upgrade soon to handle all of this.

Paper cones can be just as strong as basically any other cone material. It's not your everyday copy-paper type. Many subs use paper cones and have no issues. Do not count a driver out based on this.

[Impious 1,476]

I guess I don't see the point in adding another set of speakers to a system just to cover a single octave. Seems to me if we knew more about the system there may be better solutions.

Anyways, if you are dead set on adding these 8" midbass, and they are going "in the rear", why not port them aswell?