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2 fi btl 12's vs 2 fi btl 15's vs 3 fi bl 12's

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I have a 95 s10 which im planning to put some new gear in. first i will be using the new brz3000.1D ( which is cea certified btw) it is 3000w rms at 1 ohm.

I have enough room to fit 2 15" btl's, but i was wondering how much of a difference going with 2 btl 12's would be compared to the btl 15's?

i have a 150 amp alt and i will be using the biggest batt. xs offers. Let me know what you guys thinK? thanks, kyle

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If you give me all those set ups i can beat them with a walmart sub.....

ALL DEPENDS ON INSTALL

VS threads are worth shit.

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if you got the room go with the 15s they will be noticably louder i have 2 friends that have the same car 2000 sunfire one has a 12 btl and one a 15 btl same amp audiopipe aqx2500 i build the boxes for both of them the 12 is in a 3cube after displacement and the 15 is 4.5 after displacement both tuned to 33hz and the 15 imo is twice as loud the 12 dont even make my ears hurt and the 15 makes them feel like their gonna bleed so i would go with the 15s

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alright, ive had a few people tell me to go with the 2 15's so thats what ill do. is it necessary to use 1 in. mdf or do you think .75 in mdf will be able to handle the power without cracking or breaking ect...

also is 3000w rms enough for the 2 btl 15's? ive never heard them, so im not sure how easy they are to move.? that would be under powering the two subs by 1000w. each?

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Maybe you should start out a little smaller and work up to a pair of 15 btls.

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That amp would be perfect for 2 BL's So I would do that. But you're going to what to upgrade your alternator and get at least a XS Power 3400 if not a 3100. Also your going to need a lot of space to make an optimal box for the BL. Right now you should be focused on upgrading your alternator.

Also stop posting Vs. threads. Just do research and you could of found out all this information :suicide-santa:

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Wouldn't the two 15's have more cone area? Plus if they are BTL's they can handle more power right? More cone area, plus the option of more power = :fing34: to me

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Do you have the room? Electrical needs for nay of this?

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yes, i do have the room. the truck had 4 re audio mt 18's in it before i had purchased it.

i have all 0 ga wiring ran. do you guys think a 150 amp alt. and a 3100 xs power batt will be able to supply enough juice for the brz3000.1d (3000w rms)

im no car audio newb, ive just never had a truck before so im not sure how much little tweaks can make a difference. in my car i have 2 dd3512's on 4000w w xs power batt and a 200amp alt. w. all 0 ga.

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How much you going to pay for that brutus 3k?

I'd double baffle all the walls with 3/4" MDF and brace it real well inside.

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the brz300.1d is about 750 shipped... it looks like a solid amp, especially now that its cea certified. any other options at right about 750?

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CEA is worthless.

Audiopipe AQX 3500.1 - 450 plus shipping. Here is one place that sells it. AUDIOPIPE AMPS

Crescendo 3kwp - 550 (shipped I think). crescendoaudio.com

If you want to spend 750 then you can get an Audioque 3500.1 audioque.com

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You can also get a sundown amp their on presale!!!! thats even better then CEA!!! amp. With 750$ opens a wide range of other amps you can decide choosing.

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someone said to pair each btl with a hifinics brutus 2100d or the 1610d that those amps put out rated power at 14.4 ? ive heard good things about the sundown, but havnt been able to find them very much. 750$ isnt enough to snag up a good one for a set of btl's is it?

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NEVER ask about which sub without giving EXACTLY how much space you have for a box. The previous owner may have had 4 MT's but perhaps he was a complete dipshit and had them in WAY too small of an enclosure.

I would run a Hifonics if someone gave one to me.

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2 BTLs are gonna laugh at 3kw so go with 2 BLs with that power. If you don't know about sundown, they are known for making rated power even with low voltage. Sundown amps shit on CEA qualifications. Yea, what are your max external dimensions so we can figure out if you need 12's or 15's.

Edited by Im Hung N ur Not

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BTL's don't need a minimum amount of power, BTL's will be louder than BL's in a direct swap FYI.

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BTL's don't need a minimum amount of power, BTL's will be louder than BL's in a direct swap FYI.

Exactly, I really hate it when noobs try to say otherwise.

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BTL's don't need a minimum amount of power, BTL's will be louder than BL's in a direct swap FYI.

Exactly, I really hate it when noobs try to say otherwise.

:trippy: my bad.. I just figured if you were playing a BL to its full potential it would be louder than a BTL that isn't getting pushed so hard.

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BTL's don't need a minimum amount of power, BTL's will be louder than BL's in a direct swap FYI.

Exactly, I really hate it when noobs try to say otherwise.

:trippy: my bad.. I just figured if you were playing a BL to its full potential it would be louder than a BTL that isn't getting pushed so hard.

You figured wrong. If you give the BL 1 watt and the BTL 1 watt, the BTL WILL be louder. No matter how you scale that 1w this will be the case. The BTL is a louder driver than the BL.

*assuming an "ideal" or similarly designed box for each driver of course*

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BTL's don't need a minimum amount of power, BTL's will be louder than BL's in a direct swap FYI.

Exactly, I really hate it when noobs try to say otherwise.

:trippy: my bad.. I just figured if you were playing a BL to its full potential it would be louder than a BTL that isn't getting pushed so hard.

It's a common misconception, but physics does not allow it.

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