Truck off, head unit off, amp on...

[shizzzon 461]

yea i know, that's why i thought he had it connected to the yellow wire because that's always hot.... but he said he didnt so i want to know if the red wire is still showing a voltage reading when the car is off... If it is... then either that's NOT the ignition wire, or something has been bypassed.

[BanginGMC 23]

I hooked everything up instead of the remote wire to the amp and it didn't power on like it did last night, then.. i hooked the remote wire up and everything was going golden so i take my keys out of the ignition and start to screw my H/U back into place and once all the wires moved as i was setting the H/U back in place the issue started again!

[Jay-C76 333]

I wasn't talking to you! LOL (joking)

I was trying to inform.....

I'm totally picking up what you're layin' down,

when in doubt use the process of elimination.

If you know which is the chassis ground, clamp that and don't move it.

Then proceed to eliminate wires by turning on and off the ignition and watching for a controlled response.

[BanginGMC 23]

I bet you used the "clock wire" (usually yellow) as the remote instead of the acc. wire. ?????

The remote should only come off the wire on the H/U - nothing else....

Most H/U it's either a blue wire or blue with white stripe.

Sometimes marked "power ant." or "acc."

Remote wire on my H/U doesn't work.. no idea why, just doesn't. I was talking to a friend on here and he suggested to tap into another wire thats fused as well. So, we decided on the ignition/power wire that is "key on" so i did so and it worked wonderful, except for now..

[Jay-C76 333]

I hooked everything up instead of the remote wire to the amp and it didn't power on like it did last night, then.. i hooked the remote wire up and everything was going golden so i take my keys out of the ignition and start to screw my H/U back into place and once all the wires moved as i was setting the H/U back in place the issue started again!

get er' right again,

then wiggle each wire individually and find the short.

It may be in the harness on the rear of the H/U....(if wires got smashed too tight)

[Jay-C76 333]

I bet you used the "clock wire" (usually yellow) as the remote instead of the acc. wire. ?????

The remote should only come off the wire on the H/U - nothing else....

Most H/U it's either a blue wire or blue with white stripe.

Sometimes marked "power ant." or "acc."

Remote wire on my H/U doesn't work.. no idea why, just doesn't. I was talking to a friend on here and he suggested to tap into another wire thats fused as well. So, we decided on the ignition/power wire that is "key on" so i did so and it worked wonderful, except for now..

Easy fix then,

Tap a wire from the battery.

Then splice in a toggle switch. (not a cheap plastic one either) I get them from NAPA usually, look for a big amp load so it don't fry.

tap the other end to the amp.

[BanginGMC 23]

I bet you used the "clock wire" (usually yellow) as the remote instead of the acc. wire. ?????

The remote should only come off the wire on the H/U - nothing else....

Most H/U it's either a blue wire or blue with white stripe.

Sometimes marked "power ant." or "acc."

Remote wire on my H/U doesn't work.. no idea why, just doesn't. I was talking to a friend on here and he suggested to tap into another wire thats fused as well. So, we decided on the ignition/power wire that is "key on" so i did so and it worked wonderful, except for now..

Easy fix then,

Tap a wire from the battery.

Then splice in a toggle switch. (not a cheap plastic one either) I get them from NAPA usually, look for a big amp load so it don't fry.

tap the other end to the amp.

Couldn't i buy a new harness for my head unit?

[Jay-C76 333]

It may be an internal thing that a new harness won't cure.

[BanginGMC 23]

An internal thing in the H/U but a power wire *from the bat to the rem terminal in the amp* with a toggle switch should work?

Edited May 4, 2010 by BanginGMC

[Jay-C76 333]

It's worked many times for me.

I actually see this issue a lot with H/U.

If the remote wire ever grounds out, there is no real protection for it as far as the H/U is concerned.

So, in a pinch you can use a constant power source with a switch in the line that acts like you turning on the H/U.

You may actually pick up a slight "thump" sound when you turn it off and on but I've never seen it hurt anything.

[BanginGMC 23]

Okay, can you get me a link of a nice toggle switch i can pick up locally.. Autozone has some but idk if it can withstand he current.

[Jay-C76 333]

just get one with a high amp rating.....like say 50amp would be more fine.

[BanginGMC 23]

Okay, i'll see what i can get. Thanks guys

Edited May 5, 2010 by BanginGMC

[KU40 173]

I would wire it correctly to a switched source. You don't want to have the hassle of turning that switch on and off every time you get in and out of the car. Just get a DMM and connect it to every wire in the harness until you find the ignition wire that turns off when the key is off.

[BanginGMC 23]

I would wire it correctly to a switched source. You don't want to have the hassle of turning that switch on and off every time you get in and out of the car. Just get a DMM and connect it to every wire in the harness until you find the ignition wire that turns off when the key is off.

You're right i don't want that hassle but it already is wired to the ignition wire. Something is fucked up with it.. it'll be all good to go but once the wires move (all wire zip tied together) the problem happens again.

[jcarter1885 995]

I would wire it correctly to a switched source. You don't want to have the hassle of turning that switch on and off every time you get in and out of the car. Just get a DMM and connect it to every wire in the harness until you find the ignition wire that turns off when the key is off.

You're right i don't want that hassle but it already is wired to the ignition wire. Something is fucked up with it.. it'll be all good to go but once the wires move (all wire zip tied together) the problem happens again.

It seems like your wiring is shorted out in your original factory wiring so tap into a fuse like suggested above and it will work fine. I have had my radio like this for over a year now, with no problems at all. If you blow the fuse that it is tapped into then just up that fuses amperage a little since the head unit is now drawing power from it. If you need some pictures I can get you some, let me know.