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I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen?

Wrong information: it"s puttin out 14.4v but when the sub comes in its drops to 13v - 12v - 11v; so what can i do to correct this?

Edited by magboy

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I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen?

have you done the big three upgrade yet? what size wire are you using? 13.2 at idle? thats awfully low

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I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen?

have you done the big three upgrade yet? what size wire are you using? 13.2 at idle? thats awfully low

0 guage all over car so wat else is there to without a h/c alt

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I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen?

have you done the big three upgrade yet? what size wire are you using? 13.2 at idle? thats awfully low

0 guage all over car so wat else is there to without a h/c alt

that's with the sub playin its at 13.2 idk what it is with off

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I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen?

have you done the big three upgrade yet? what size wire are you using? 13.2 at idle? thats awfully low

0 guage all over car so wat else is there to without a h/c alt

that's with the sub playin its at 13.2 idk what it is with off

sry if i misunderstood you, i know you are using 1/0 but have you done the big 3? sry if you already answered but i wasn't sure

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Actually 13.2 is pretty good actually very good at full tilt

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but ya 13.1 is pretty good at full tilt. without a h/o or more batteries or 16volt batteries bank.

also what rpm is your car at when you are at 13.1 volts? idle

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also how are you getting your voltage readings? via dmm? via 2-dmm to make sure 1 dmm isn't jacked? or via voltmeter?

if via voltmeter (stinger in particular) did CALIBRATE the voltmeter?

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So you want to keep your voltage up you would need to put a bigger battery bank in... But like said before 13.2 on a full tilt is not bad at all... :popcorn::drink40:

Edited by thehawk93

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but ya 13.1 is pretty good at full tilt. without a h/o or more batteries or 16volt batteries bank.

also what rpm is your car at when you are at 13.1 volts? idle

yeah its at idle but it's at 14.4 then it drops 13v - 12v i want to keep it at 14v though

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I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen?

have you done the big three upgrade yet? what size wire are you using? 13.2 at idle? thats awfully low

0 guage all over car so wat else is there to without a h/c alt

that's with the sub playin its at 13.2 idk what it is with off

sry if i misunderstood you, i know you are using 1/0 but have you done the big 3? sry if you already answered but i wasn't sure

whats the big three?

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I have two batteries a yellow top duralast under the hood and kenetik hc1800 with a us md2d on 1 15" fi bl and a pioneer gm-6400 for my highs; stock alt< no battery isolater; i"m putting out 13.2 volts i'm trying to put 14v +. How can i make the that happen?

have you done the big three upgrade yet? what size wire are you using? 13.2 at idle? thats awfully low

0 guage all over car so wat else is there to without a h/c alt

that's with the sub playin its at 13.2 idk what it is with off

sry if i misunderstood you, i know you are using 1/0 but have you done the big 3? sry if you already answered but i wasn't sure

whats the big three?

it consists of three upgraded wires under the hood of the car.....remember when i say UPGRADE do not replace! depends on how hidden your alternator is to determine how hard it is to upgrade....

use 1/0

Alternator to Positive output on battery

Negitive battery to chassis (make sure to have contact with bare metal)

engine block to chassis

definitely recommend doing this upgrade and then going from there

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What size is your stock alternator?

The language in this thread is pretty bad. Everybody please make sure and type in good sentences and with full words, that way everybody can understand what you are saying.

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i dont care if he adds 5,000 runs of 1/0 cable.

For him to drop to 13v flat means his alternator is maxed out at the rpm he is at.

You can't maintain 14v or higher with a stock alt and a bunch of batteries and wire unless you use a fluxcap which is NOT what i am recommending either.

You simply need a high output alt to maintain that voltage level.

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i dont care if he adds 5,000 runs of 1/0 cable.

For him to drop to 13v flat means his alternator is maxed out at the rpm he is at.

You can't maintain 14v or higher with a stock alt and a bunch of batteries and wire unless you use a fluxcap which is NOT what i am recommending either.

You simply need a high output alt to maintain that voltage level.

so u suggest a h/o alt?

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Yes, i'm sure we all would.

so the big 3 wouldn't make a difference, w/o a hc alt?

Edited by magboy

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yes big three will help without a HO alt but its not a replacement do the big 3 then see what your voltage is at. If its still bad then your gonna need to get a smaller amp or a bigger alternator.

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once u exceed the maximum current output capability of the alternator at any given rpm, the voltage will drop to the level of the batteries. That's just how it works.

If your batteries are fully charged then it will drop to 13.0-13.2v. It is at this level where when left there under heavy load... any continual drop from here is just eating up those batteries.

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yes big three will help without a HO alt but its not a replacement do the big 3 then see what your voltage is at. If its still bad then your gonna need to get a smaller amp or a bigger alternator.

mmmm...not really. The only way the big 3 will help with a stock alternator is if the ground wires/alternator wires are badly corroded or the insulation is cracked.

Think...the stock alternator outputs 80A. What's the point of having 350A (1/0 cable) worth of current potential? It's like peeing in a ditch. Sure, it feels good, but there's no way you're going to fill it up.

The stock big 3 wires are enough to handle all the current flow of a stock charging system. If they were not, they would have melted long ago ;) You can't make more voltage using bigger wire unless, like I said, the wire is either compromised or too small.

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big 3 will help.....i was at 14.0v at idle and it would drop as low as 10v-9v...i did the big 3 and at full tilt idling at a stop light the lowest i get is 13.6v...and driving at normal speeds(40mph) i stay above 14.0 thats with stock alt and a cheap battery

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Your stock wire went shitty on you. There's no way you'd dip to 9V without an issue of some kind, like bad wire.

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Your stock wire went shitty on you. There's no way you'd dip to 9V without an issue of some kind, like bad wire.

Lol, yea down to 9v.. there was something wrong there.

Will i do agree with you mostly about your point of view, i would say that adding more wire when doing the big 3 will slightly increase efficiency.

It lowers the resistance across anything that may have resistance.

Also, it prevents wire from heating up due to excessive use which also causes resistance buildup.

Of course the wiring is sufficient but it can always be better.

Just like i can guarantee i could run a sundown 3000d off of 1 single 4awg wire 17ft long without failure.

The wire would always be warm but probably not enough to melt. Adding more wire will decrease resistance to allow higher pressure = voltage potential, especially when things are under current demand.

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I can't disagree with you there ;)

What if we compromise a little...for cost, especially...and run 8ga for the big 3? Copper Knu wire in that size is 65 cents a foot. Well...depending on the vehicle I guess. Mine only has 8-ish gauge or 10ga for most things.

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