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Ordered a Fosgate T1500, what do I need now?

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Currently I've got a P3002 and two Memphis twelves and a Memphis 15. I'm planning on upgrading my wiring to 1/0, and thinking I'll probably need an upgraded alternator. Someone in another thread said something about needing extra batteries for a T1500, I was thinking I'd be okay with the alternator. Opinions? By the way, I'm planning on ordering a BTL 18 next. I'm also looking for ideas on box design. Its going in an Explorer, so I've got plenty of room. I want the sub facing the roof and the port facing the front. Planning on making a amp rack out of some plexi too, I'll have to post some pics.

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why not buy a battery before an amp and see where you get with that? get a voltmeter and check your voltage as well and then see if you need a new alt. this could be cheaper as well, if you just use a secondary batt (i dont know what you need for a starting battery, so its depending on various things)

i recommend just getting the biggest baddest battery that you can afford and stick it under the hood to replace your starting battery. if that doesnt work put the stock one back in and put your big one in back and see if that helps at all.

for sure get the big wire, and a must on the big 3, if you havent done it already.

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The alternator in the truck is good, but its stock, I figured it'd be good to get a high output alternator from DC Power or Mechman first. I'd like to get a XS Power 3100 battery, I figure it would be better to go ahead and put it in the back,. When putting a second one in the back, do you wire it from the alternator also?

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The alternator in the truck is good, but its stock, I figured it'd be good to get a high output alternator from DC Power or Mechman first. I'd like to get a XS Power 3100 battery, I figure it would be better to go ahead and put it in the back,. When putting a second one in the back, do you wire it from the alternator also?

no you would upgrade the big three and that includes the alternator...for the second battery in the back you would do a + run from front bat to back bat

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Allright, I see you've got a DC Power alternator, the Mechman one for my truck is a little cheaper and claims to have higher output, I'm not really sure which one I'll go with.

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Allright, I see you've got a DC Power alternator, the Mechman one for my truck is a little cheaper and claims to have higher output, I'm not really sure which one I'll go with.

what does the alt. do at idle?

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The Mechman is 165 at 800 rpm, 270 amp full output by 1800 rpm.

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First thing I would do is make a choice between the 12's or the 15, but not both. Are you adding an 18 or replacing the others?

Put a big battery in back with the amp and it "should" be fine with the big 3 and that. Just keep an eye on voltage and go from there.

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First thing I would do is make a choice between the 12's or the 15, but not both. Are you adding an 18 or replacing the others?

Put a big battery in back with the amp and it "should" be fine with the big 3 and that. Just keep an eye on voltage and go from there.

Yeah I'm replacing everything with the 18. I personally think that the 12s and 15 sound better together than they do separate, but I'm sure the 18 will be badass.

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I just made a deal to sell my glock, I'm going to use the money from that to order the Mechman alternator tomorrow. I'm hoping that will be enough to run the amp. If not, I guess I'll get an XS Power battery. Do ya'll think I should go ahead and try to get the 3100, or would a smaller battery be alright for the T1500?

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what kind of front battery do u have?

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what kind of front battery do u have?

A Napa Power 65, its 710 cranking amps at 32 F. Last night at work two or three people were trying to convince me that I didn't need a high output alternator, that I should just get a capacitor. :suicide-santa: I tried to convince them that capacitors don't work and are a marketing gimmick, but to no avail. Someone suggested adding a second battery with my stock alternator, but I don't think that would do much good, and it seems like it would put a lot of strain on the stock alternator, I could be wrong though.

This is my first system over 1000 watts, and I know Fosgate stuff is usually underrated, so I figured I should be prepared rather than risk my amp. Thats something else the people at work were trying to convince me of, that an underpowered system couldn't hurt an amplifier. I mean I know I don't know everything about car audio, hell I guess I don't know a lot, but I try to learn what I can, and use common sense. Some people just act like they know everything and can't be convinced otherwise.

Another question I have is about external regulators for high output alternators. I saw a thread on here where someone was talking about them, but I didn't see a really good explanation. I'm not sure if Mechman offers them or not. Do they let you adjust the output voltage of the alternator, or what do they do?

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Bump, I'm going to order the Mechman alternator today, opinions?

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Well, I went ahead and ordered the Mechman alternator. I also ordered an Fi BTL 18, fully loaded. I'm excited to say the least. As for the enclosure for the BTL, I think I'm going to use the optimal design for the XCON thats on the site here. Its 7.65 cubic feet. The only thing I think I'll change is to make the port be on the side instead of on the same side as the driver. I want to have the sub facing up towards the top of my vehicle and the port facing forward towards the front of the vehicle. Does anyone see any issues for this design with this driver?

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Well, I went ahead and ordered the Mechman alternator. I also ordered an Fi BTL 18, fully loaded. I'm excited to say the least. As for the enclosure for the BTL, I think I'm going to use the optimal design for the XCON thats on the site here. Its 7.65 cubic feet. The only thing I think I'll change is to make the port be on the side instead of on the same side as the driver. I want to have the sub facing up towards the top of my vehicle and the port facing forward towards the front of the vehicle. Does anyone see any issues for this design with this driver?

:woot:

build log forsure!

if you want to face the port towards the inside of the vehicle then go ahead

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Well, I went ahead and ordered the Mechman alternator. I also ordered an Fi BTL 18, fully loaded. I'm excited to say the least. As for the enclosure for the BTL, I think I'm going to use the optimal design for the XCON thats on the site here. Its 7.65 cubic feet. The only thing I think I'll change is to make the port be on the side instead of on the same side as the driver. I want to have the sub facing up towards the top of my vehicle and the port facing forward towards the front of the vehicle. Does anyone see any issues for this design with this driver?

:woot:

build log forsure!

if you want to face the port towards the inside of the vehicle then go ahead

Yeah, I'd like to make a good build log, but all I've got is a shitty cell phone camera to work with. I've got a nice Canon digital elph, but its been lost at my dads house for over a year. I'll have to see if I can borrow a camera from someone. I can't wait to get everything. This will be the most powerful system I've ever had.

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Welcome to the club, that is how all my pictures are taken with the cell phone camera. I will invest in a digital camera some time in the future but all funds go to car audio right now, good luck with install as well.

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First thing I would do is make a choice between the 12's or the 15, but not both. Are you adding an 18 or replacing the others?

Put a big battery in back with the amp and it "should" be fine with the big 3 and that. Just keep an eye on voltage and go from there.

Yeah I'm replacing everything with the 18. I personally think that the 12s and 15 sound better together than they do separate, but I'm sure the 18 will be badass.

Different size drivers in the same ride = no good.

Edited by BanginGMC

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First thing I would do is make a choice between the 12's or the 15, but not both. Are you adding an 18 or replacing the others?

Put a big battery in back with the amp and it "should" be fine with the big 3 and that. Just keep an eye on voltage and go from there.

Yeah I'm replacing everything with the 18. I personally think that the 12s and 15 sound better together than they do separate, but I'm sure the 18 will be badass.

Different size drivers in the same ride = no good.

I'm sure your probably right, but why? I personally thought it sounded a lot better when I added the 12s.

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If it sounded better then more than likely the 15" was in a box not recommended for the sub or goals you had planned to achieve in the install.

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First thing I would do is make a choice between the 12's or the 15, but not both. Are you adding an 18 or replacing the others?

Put a big battery in back with the amp and it "should" be fine with the big 3 and that. Just keep an eye on voltage and go from there.

Yeah I'm replacing everything with the 18. I personally think that the 12s and 15 sound better together than they do separate, but I'm sure the 18 will be badass.

Different size drivers in the same ride = no good.

I'm sure your probably right, but why? I personally thought it sounded a lot better when I added the 12s.

Subwoofer cancellation.

Mixing and matching different subs, especially different sizes, is not the best idea. Different weight cones will travel at different speeds and it's an absolute pain in the ass to tune properly as they will be out of phase, causing flat spots and not quite the same but mixing different brand subs like Fi and AudioQue isn't the best idea either as two different subs can behave/react differently at any given frequency and can cause similar effects as using different sizes.

Can be done with multiple crossovers though. In general....not worth it.

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