H/U and 3-way active

[tejcurrent 13]

Hey guys, I'm buying an Alpine IVA-D310 and I'm hoping to get a nice 3-way active setup going. I found the h/u for a good price lightly used, not really willing to spend the 500+ I have on past h/u's. a

I was trying to find an Alpine PXA-H701 but I can't find one so maybe someone could suggest a comparable eq that could be controlled with the touch screen? Also I just want to make sure this is a good unit for my situation.

As far as the 3-way active setup, I have an older eclipse ea4000, but I'm willing to sell to get another 4 channel and a 2 channel, or just add another 2 channel. I do want the amps to match though so suggestions would be great. I'm on a budget at the moment, but I was told DLS made some nice comps that would be a good starting point, though I'm not sure on the 7/8" midbass.

I listen to a lot of rock, mostly heavier rock and feel like I'm lacking so much in the lower mid/ midbass area. I currently have realm audio 6.5 comps and I'm not pleased with the bottom end. I have subs, but for the majority of my listening I'd prefer to have them off. I would be happy for things to play down to about 50hz well. I'm thinking maybe $1000 budget on speakers and amps, cheaper would be much better. I plan on making a-pillars to house the tweeters, with the mid / midbass angled in the door near the factory location to preserve cosmetics. I will not be making obvious pods- I know I'd have more flexibility and ability to make things sound better, but I just don't want to make the work obvious.

Thanks, I'll try to answer any questions I can to get things right. Any help is appreciated.

[///M5 2,833]

How much space for a midbass?

[tejcurrent 13]

How much space for a midbass?

Roughly 4.5" mounting depth, I can fiberglass the panels to get proper air space whatever it may be. I can fit a 7" behind the factory grill which I would like to preserve factory appearances- though I can still angle things quite a bit.

[///M5 2,833]

Angling won't help anything on a midbass, but cone area will. Considering your reasoning from above sounds like you wish to gain midbass, I'd rethink your install and see what you could fit.

[tejcurrent 13]

What would you recommend? I will do whatever is necessary, I'd just prefer to do as little as possible.

[///M5 2,833]

Interesting. I don't remember what you drive. Help to know as well as mounting options a bit.

[tejcurrent 13]

Interesting. I don't remember what you drive. Help to know as well as mounting options a bit.

It is an 01 chevy tahoe, the 6.5 comp set is in the door within a few inches of each other. Here's an old picture of one door panel with the screen off to show speaker location:

[///M5 2,833]

Not terribly hard to fit an 8 in there. Going to need kicks or some fab work up top for the mid/tweet.

[tejcurrent 13]

It's just shy of 8" behind the grill, which I really would prefer to keep. I'm going to put the tweets near the area where the dash and windshield meet to keep them out of the way for driving. I just want things to look close to factory when done.

[Notorious on mobile 0]

Interesting.

I want to know what will be the options.

[///M5 2,833]

What are your goals?

As for a touchscreen unless you go PC, the H701 is really your solution.

So tweet in the sails, mid in the kics, and mbass in the doors?

[tejcurrent 13]

What are your goals?

As for a touchscreen unless you go PC, the H701 is really your solution.

So tweet in the sails, mid in the kics, and mbass in the doors?

I'll look around for the h701 then, thanks a lot. The only place I can ask locally about Alpine products is Best Buy

Correct on the tweets, and I would like to try to fit the mids and mid bass in the doors. I'll probably put the mid somewhere in the grill covered area, with the mid bass a bit below the mid. My vehicle is both family truck and work truck, so pretty much all of my passengers are careless and I don't trust uncovered speakers or ones that may get 'kicked' in the kick. We also use the vehicle for all road trips, so I'd like to keep as much space by my feet as possible.

My substage is definitely spl oriented. It's not good for kids in the car, or even for well-balanced music. I have my subs off when the family is in the car, and on a lot of rock. The problem with that is that I have my family with me a lot, and listen to primarily rock/metal.

I want to have a front stage (there's no rear fill) that sounds good overall, without feeling like much is lacking without a subwoofer. I feel like all the metal/rock I listen to is missing a lot of the bass guitar and kickdrums I love. I guess it boils down to wanting it to sound good with the ability to play the ~50-250hz range with more authority than the components I have now do.

[tejcurrent 13]

OK, the Alpine was damaged in the mail God it's so frustrating to deal with shipping insurance.

So now I need to buy a new h/u. I didn't like the way the screen would've hit the shifter in my truck so I'm going to modify the dash to accept a double-din.

I was looking at the Pioneer avh-p4200dvd. Would this allow me to do what I need with active, or should I look for something else? Any suggestions or opinions would help out a lot, as soon as I get my money back from usps I'm buying- trying to stay in the <$700 range. Thanks.

[tejcurrent 13]

I also was looking at the Eclipse AVN6620

[tejcurrent 13]

Still browsing, Best Buy is the only local car audio dealer, and they have nothing worth buying.

I went to a junk yard and pulled the dash parts I needed today, I'm going to modify the dash to fit things tomorrow I hope, if not then this weekend. I'm pretty much committed to this mod now.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

I hope you get some help here, I have been thinking about going active with my 3 way set up.

Hard to find a HU that will for 3way plus sub unless you are willing to drop some serious coin.

I only know of the Clarion DRZ9255 and the new Pioneer.

I really like the Eclipse CD7200 mkII , but I believe it would still need additional processing.

I am going to sit back and watch. I hope you find something and dont mind me tagging along.

[///M5 2,833]

The only in dash solutions are Alpine or a touchscreen for a carpc. Other than that you will either need a separate controller, device, or to hook something up to a computer.

[///M5 2,833]

How do you currently shut off the subs when the family is with you?

[tejcurrent 13]

How do you currently shut off the subs when the family is with you?

The alpine unit I have now has the option to turn the sub off quickly from the menu, it takes maybe 3 seconds.

Could you suggest an Alpine model in particular? I've been looking at their website but all the audio info seems to just default to adding Imprint, which if that's all I need to do I'll do that too.

Or is there external processing that would help that could be added on to the other products I've mentioned?

[///M5 2,833]

Lots of choices externally, but one of your wishes was touch screen control.

The Alpine w505 is a great control unit for the H701.

Question on your goals further. It seems to me that the 3 way is there so you can turn the subs either way down or off, but still have bass and not really for staging or other reproduction purposes. Is this the case?

[tejcurrent 13]

Lots of choices externally, but one of your wishes was touch screen control.

The Alpine w505 is a great control unit for the H701.

Question on your goals further. It seems to me that the 3 way is there so you can turn the subs either way down or off, but still have bass and not really for staging or other reproduction purposes. Is this the case?

I enjoy SPL competition, and occasionally some chopped and screwed music in the 150 db + range. On the other hand that just isn't practical with the family- and overwhelming bass does not sound right with most of the music I listen to. I just can't drag myself away from spl, but for daily use there's so much I know I'm missing out on, and the 60-250 hz range is barely there at all. I rarely listen to things loud, I really just want a good sounding front stage, regardless of how it mixes with the subs because they're more for comps. I was having some difficulty understanding your questions so I hope I answered it well.

Thanks a lot, I'll look into the Alpine. I read a review about some special cable that I'd need that doesn't come with it in one review, but I can't find anymore info elsewhere?

I'd be open to adding external processing if there are some good suggestions on that, I guess once things are set I wont be touching them a whole lot.

[C3Customs 2]

The Ural CDD is another head unit that can go 3-way active+ sub

[smgreen20 3]

Our trucks suck in the mid range area, it's the doors. You'll need to build a sealed pod for the mid in order for it to appear. You can fit an 8" behind the grille, directly on the door. You can fit a 5 1/4" above that on the door panel. I know a guy that has his that way.

I have a 6 1/2" in there that I'm going to build a sealed pod for this summer, 3" mid + 1" tweet in the A-pillar. The 3"/1" xover is done via passive. The xover between the 6 1/2" & 3" is active. So I'm passively active.

[///M5 2,833]

Not sure what you mean by "suck for midrange", not my experience but then again I am not sure what you are trying to say.