Are the Flatlynes for me?

[jcarter1885 995]

I have a X-991 book for it said 3 (front, rear, sub non-fade) at 4v. So I went to Kenwood's site and pulled up the book for the 993, said the same thing. The book didn't give an indication there was any difference in voltage between any of the pre outs.

Yes your right, if you have a Kenwood Excelon X-693 then you definitely have a 4v pre out for all outputs.

[mike445422 0]

Thats great, i changed it all to 4v on the sxrc, it sounds right about the same volume wise with the same gain settings. I have a XXX in there right now and its kind of tempting just to keep it in, but i dont want to get hit with the price tag.

[Impious 1,476]

I never would think 6db is too much gain. i have my four channel set closer to 8db on my 3 way setup.

You said "6db out of 18db", which means you must be talking about the EQ network built into the amplifier. 6db of boost requires that the amplifier output 4x the power. So if you have the gain set to where the amplifier is outputting 1250w and then apply the additional 6db of boost, the amplifier will try to output 5000w of power at and near the center frequency of the EQ.

What's going to happen when that 1250w amplifier tries to output 5kw? Clipping.

Negative kicker sx amplifiers have no dials its all digtial through a controller on the dash the amp has built in DSP, Kompressor, and EQ as well as LPF, Band pass, and HPF. The Eq focus is set to flat at 60hz with a Q value of 1.0 which is nothing. As far as gain goes it has three option 1v-2v-4v. It then has an adjustment of gain in db with a high of 18db per channel and a low of 0, 0 is no gain.

According to the manual:

Gain Menu;

Now use the UP and DOWN keys

to increase or decrease the gain of

the amplifier in .5 dB increments from

0 dB to +12 dB. (.0 to 12.0)

EQ Menu;

BOOST/CUT is how much you want to boost or cut the

equalizer and has a range of -18 dB to + 18 dB in .5 dB

steps

In which case, if you are using the adjustment that goes up to 18db that would be the equalizer and not the gain as the gain only goes to 12db.

[BigCProductions99 21]

Damn, Dont You Just Love User Error?

[mike445422 0]

Damn, Dont You Just Love User Error?

Yeah funny though that no other sub but the ia had a problem.

[Incriminator 16]

Damn, Dont You Just Love User Error?

Yeah funny though that no other sub but the ia had a problem.

I understand you spent some money and just bought some drivers and they are already blown and that isn’t fun, but I usually don't take kind to people that blame our brand as the only brand at fault. Maybe if you broke one driver - then possibly it was our fault, but two of them seem almost impossible if you do the odds. Out of all the Flatlynes sold you just broke the first two. Something is going on and since I’ve never seen your car I have no idea what it is.

Tell me what happened when the driver went bad? Did it smell? Mechanical noise?

Maybe, we can resolve the problem at get you fixed up!

Thanks,

Nick

[altoncustomtech 773]

hey OP they are not for you...... give em to me... ps you do this for a living. you sound like a newb

why is that? The thing is i had subs on this amp 2 12" JLw6v2s and pulled them out and put the flatlynes in the only change i made was that i lowerd my lpf to compensate for the kick bass system. In the end i come into this situation oh well i guess thats life.

Did you just drop them into the same enclosure(s)? If so that could VERY well be another problem if the enclosure size and tuning (if ported) is off.

[shadowslayer666 1]

Dude you had your pre volt output wrong, with the gain too high, plus the bass boost was on. What were you expecting to happen? Also like Alton said did you just put them in a box, because that changes how the drivers perform dramatically.

To nick, you make a great product, my 187's can take everything i can throw at them, and they are still going strong. Dont let this guy get you down

[stealth 113]

fukken newb get out, dont be fukking pointing fingers at IA because you cannot install.

[95Honda 486]

OK, just a few things-

You do realize you have a sub rated at 750 WRMS, right? This means it is NOT intended to dissipate more thermal heat than 750 WRMS will generate. You have an amplifier that will probably generate well over 750 WRMS, this is more than enough power to fry the voicecoil...

This has nothing to do with clipping, pre-out levels or anything else, contrary to what people may have told you. The voicecoil is a piece of wire wrapped around a former. It doesn't care what type of signal it gets as long as it's thermal threshold isn't exceeded. When you ask it to dissipate more than 750 Watts of energy, it overheats and breaks down. Period. This is always the end users fault.

What is this crap about Xmax? The damn driver has 18mm of linear throw one way, that is more than many of the "SPL" subs out there, this has nothing to due with you thermally destroying the driver.

It has an underhung motor. This more than likely means it has a shorter coil, with less surface area and lower heat dissipation. Again, compounding your user error even further. The geometry leads to an extremely flat BL curve within the excursion limitations, this means low distortion, low enough that you may not hear the driver being destroyed by your overpowering. This is a driver specifically targeted for flat, linear response. This comes at the expense of power handling in your case.

My suggestion is to sell the drivers after you have them reconed (you should pay for this) and buy a sub that has higher power handling due to the fact that you cannot tell when you exceed your drivers thermal limits. To be safe, you should buy a driver that has 2X the RMS rating as your amp.... This is not a general reccomendation, this is only for you.

[will3 2]

First off subwoofers never blow themselves they always have help, if you do this for a living you need to stop knowing everything and start listening , I could care less if they were JL audio or IA subwoofers,voice coils don't just randomly melt, ever

And setting your gains with a DMM means nothing, you don't know you weren't clipping the driver , or how much actual power you were sending to it

I have had personal experince with the FL , and have sent 3x the rated power to them with 0 problems , I can tell you this for a fact there is no problem what so ever with the design on the Flatlynes, you could have gotten a bad one but there is almost no chance you got two at the same time that had a problem, i am not trying to bash on you , but if you do this for a living you need to start asking questions and listening to people that are trying to help( good or bad ).

There is a reason so many respected members of the mobile electronics community uses,sells,or recommends IA products.

[iamamp3pimp 34]

First off subwoofers never blow themselves they always have help, if you do this for a living you need to stop knowing everything and start listening , I could care less if they were JL audio or IA subwoofers,voice coils don't just randomly melt, ever

And setting your gains with a DMM means nothing, you don't know you weren't clipping the driver , or how much actual power you were sending to it

I have had personal experince with the FL , and have sent 3x the rated power to them with 0 problems , I can tell you this for a fact there is no problem what so ever with the design on the Flatlynes, you could have gotten a bad one but there is almost no chance you got two at the same time that had a problem, i am not trying to bash on you , but if you do this for a living you need to start asking questions and listening to people that are trying to help( good or bad ).

There is a reason so many respected members of the mobile electronics community uses,sells,or recommends IA products.

wait a minute?

You mean to tell me that you successfully sent 2250 watts to a single flatlyne?

[Adrian_D 520]

This also causes a problem. Newbs who see the post claiming the Flatlyne handled 3x rated will want to put close to that power to the sub and after they break we get another topic like this.

[will3 2]

This also causes a problem. Newbs who see the post claiming the Flatlyne handled 3x rated will want to put close to that power to the sub and after they break we get another topic like this.

Maybe I should have put a disclaimer on that statment ,I was simply trying to make a point, I would not recommend someone run a Flatlyne on 2k +

I really hope this would not cause someone to put 3X the power to there FL's this would not be my intention .

[jcarter1885 995]

This also causes a problem. Newbs who see the post claiming the Flatlyne handled 3x rated will want to put close to that power to the sub and after they break we get another topic like this.

Maybe I should have put a disclaimer on that statment ,I was simply trying to make a point, I would not recommend someone run a Flatlyne on 2k +

I really hope this would not cause someone to put 3X the power to there FL's this would not be my intention .

Well next time give the reasons on how your sub could handle 3 times its rated power instead of just saying you did. With statements like these and youtube videos showing people running more than rms (2 times or times the rms amount) to there subwoofer it gives the beginers the idea of doing it. Most people go off what they see, so if they read that exactly how you put it then they will assume my Flatlyne can take 2250 rms with no problem even though its rated at 750rms.

[Adrian_D 520]

This also causes a problem. Newbs who see the post claiming the Flatlyne handled 3x rated will want to put close to that power to the sub and after they break we get another topic like this.

Maybe I should have put a disclaimer on that statment ,I was simply trying to make a point, I would not recommend someone run a Flatlyne on 2k +

I really hope this would not cause someone to put 3X the power to there FL's this would not be my intention .

I was just pointing out. A disclaimer like your last post is much better

[///M5 2,833]

This has nothing to do with clipping, pre-out levels or anything else, contrary to what people may have told you. The voicecoil is a piece of wire wrapped around a former. It doesn't care what type of signal it gets as long as it's thermal threshold isn't exceeded. When you ask it to dissipate more than 750 Watts of energy, it overheats and breaks down. Period. This is always the end users fault.

Spot on. The only caveat I'd add is that clipping will of course cause the energy to go up making it even easier to overheat.

There is no reason you should be made at IA, but 100% at yourself. You did two things wrong here. First you didn't buy a sub meant for output, for some reason you misconceived the idea of SQ and applied your definition incorrectly to a driver. Second, you threw way too much power at them. This isn't the subs fault and had you actually truly been interested in fidelity you easily would have heard it struggling and automatically turned it down. The case is obviously you wanted more output and kept getting happy with the volume knob, add that the 6dB of gain you threw at it and I am surprised the 2nd one made it as long as it did.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

It sounds a little funny that someone in the industry could blow two diffferent subs with out any indication that they were about to blow. Unless both subs had mechanical defects on the coils allowing them to come apart. Which could be possible but unlikely. I don't care if the subs had rated power, 2,500 watts of power, clipped signal, unclipped signal, too big of a box, to small of a box, or even if they were plugged into a 120 volt ac outlet, the coils would first heat up the glue holding them together causing a burning smell, which most everyone would smell and think to themselves, I might want to turn off my system and have a looksee.