My RL-p box sucked, now it's in a better home with

[Supa_c 1]

Could be because of your ghetto wiring

Bottoming out subs= BAD

Good way to void your warranty

[Chevy350TPI 12]

trust me - your not getting 1200 watts out of that amp

impedence rise is a female dog

[finebar4 0]

That would probably be your amp clipping when it is trying to take big bites, connecting where it is, is it not getting enough amperage. That is what I am facing in my truck coming from the battery, so I am upgrading my alt , batt, and wiring, and switching from class d to class ab and take even bigger bites and going from there.

[ls1pimp 0]

Could be because of your ghetto wiring

Bottoming out subs= BAD

Good way to void your warranty

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well the sub shouldn't not be bottoming out anyway when i try to crank it up. My infinity perfect NEVER bottomed out, but this one does constantly when i crank it up. I just read that thread about the guys messed up RL-i's and it sounds liek i am going through the exact same chit he is.

If the sub is reaching full excursion and bottoming out, why isn't it even loud? That other dude said he put it in a ported box and it still went to full exursion and bottomed out, i don't want the same chit to happen to me.

[ANeonRider 3]

Could be because of your ghetto wiring

Bottoming out subs= BAD

Good way to void your warranty

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well the sub shouldn't not be bottoming out anyway when i try to crank it up. My infinity perfect NEVER bottomed out, but this one does constantly when i crank it up. I just read that thread about the guys messed up RL-i's and it sounds liek i am going through the exact same chit he is.

If the sub is reaching full excursion and bottoming out, why isn't it even loud? That other dude said he put it in a ported box and it still went to full exursion and bottomed out, i don't want the same chit to happen to me.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You are starving the amp of current, therefore, clipping it. When an amp clips, it will deliver 2x the power it normally would. Need to stop listening to all these locals guys...

Just do what was suggested.

mrray13 makes boxes, I make designs. I ran my Brutus at full output (no clipping), so 1500W - impedance rise, and I have NO problems.

[NDMstang65 403]

Just another FYI

That sub won't reach the back plate

You'd have the snap the cone off at the tripple (sp?) joint to get the coil to do a tap dance on it...

your clipping it and rocking the coil if it's making a clanging noise like that...unless the spiders are ganked..

[ls1pimp 0]

Just another FYI

That sub won't reach the back plate

You'd have the snap the cone off at the tripple (sp?) joint  to get the coil to do a tap dance on it...

your clipping it and rocking the coil if it's making a clanging noise like that...unless the spiders are ganked..

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Huh? All i can describe the noise is when i turn it up, the sub makes a loud "pway pway" nosie. And how do i tell if the spiders are "ganked"?

[Supa_c 1]

Just another FYI

That sub won't reach the back plate

You'd have the snap the cone off at the tripple (sp?) joint  to get the coil to do a tap dance on it...

your clipping it and rocking the coil if it's making a clanging noise like that...unless the spiders are ganked..

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

* triple

ganked, wtf ?

[SoundSplinter 1]

That sub won't reach the back plate

On the contrary, the RL-p can and will bottom out if fed too much power (it will take quite a bit of power before slammin' though). Seems everyone here has laid out the cards and now it's time for ls1pimp to make some decisions. For one thing, lay off that gain man - you don't want to destroy the woofer before you have a chance to get your setup set straight! Get your wiring to the battery and try to find a way to use either a 1.25 - 1.35 NET volume sealed or 1.5 - 2.0 NET volume ported @ 34 Hz enclosure. 0.85 cu ft NET is simply not going to give you the output you want PERIOD.

Don't forget about enclosure positioning and noise cancellation as well - but seriously man:

• Get wiring done properly
  
• Ease up on your gain - if the woofer is clippin' and makin' all sorts of nasty noise, you are hurting it and need to back off on the gain.
  
• Change your enclosure
  

So now that you've heard this so many times, are you ready to go do it?!

[Supa_c 1]

That sub won't reach the back plate

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

On the contrary, the RL-p can and will bottom out if fed too much power (it will take quite a bit of power before slammin' though). Seems everyone here has laid out the cards and now it's time for ls1pimp to make some decisions. For one thing, lay off that gain man - you don't want to destroy the woofer before you have a chance to get your setup set straight! Get your wiring to the battery and try to find a way to use either a 1.25 - 1.35 NET volume sealed or 1.5 - 2.0 NET volume ported @ 34 Hz enclosure. 0.85 cu ft NET is simply not going to give you the output you want PERIOD.

Don't forget about enclosure positioning and noise cancellation as well - but seriously man:

• Get wiring done properly
  
• Ease up on your gain - if the woofer is clippin' and makin' all sorts of nasty noise, you are hurting it and need to back off on the gain.
  
• Change your enclosure
  

So now that you've heard this so many times, are you ready to go do it?!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Just need to re iterate that

[rrollin22 0]

That sub won't reach the back plate

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

On the contrary, the RL-p can and will bottom out if fed too much power (it will take quite a bit of power before slammin' though). Seems everyone here has laid out the cards and now it's time for ls1pimp to make some decisions. For one thing, lay off that gain man - you don't want to destroy the woofer before you have a chance to get your setup set straight! Get your wiring to the battery and try to find a way to use either a 1.25 - 1.35 NET volume sealed or 1.5 - 2.0 NET volume ported @ 34 Hz enclosure. 0.85 cu ft NET is simply not going to give you the output you want PERIOD.

Don't forget about enclosure positioning and noise cancellation as well - but seriously man:

• Get wiring done properly
  
• Ease up on your gain - if the woofer is clippin' and makin' all sorts of nasty noise, you are hurting it and need to back off on the gain.
  
• Change your enclosure
  

So now that you've heard this so many times, are you ready to go do it?!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

No, he will still probably need someone other then the owner of the company to tell him, because he has a hard time thinking a box would have so much of an affect on the output, or that some ghetto wiring job is the problem. I mean all you do Mike is make d@mn good speakers for a living and provide incredible customer service. So why in the world would anyone listen to you

[Fonzi 3]

Grrrrr...This is getting old.

I think he has about 5 different threads on this now.

[jellyfish420 0]

i doubt very seriously that the sub was bottoming out, in that small of a sealed box. i don't see why everyone is having so many problems? well i do see it really...everyone buys this sub because all of the good things everyone says. then think they can throw it in some cheap, prefab, little ass box and think the sub is just gonna make up for it.

note to everyone: the most expensive "super-sub" WILL sound like ass in a crappy box, and sony xplod's in the proper box will walk all over the super-subs in a crappy box every day of the week . . . .

[MrSwiss 0]

i agree with jelly. the rl-p has become so prestigious its pretty amazing. just the soundsplinter name right now has so much to live up to. i wouldnt be surprised if a few ppl were not dissapointed. but then again these drivers are made purely for SQ, but manage to have very nice output.

just get your enclosure built to specs, and u will be satisfied. the sub is just 1 small part of the equation.

[ls1pimp 0]

Well, you guys were all 100% right. Me and a buddy rewired the whole car, moved the wiring to the battery instead of the fusebox, and still the same thing. Its definately the box. So what specs do i need the box built too? I want some crazy LSQ, with much more emphasis on SPL, and some on SQ. Probably gonna go ported. So what specs should i use?

[Supa_c 1]

Dude, read back in this thread....hell read back in your other threads.

It says what you should use.

[Supa_c 1]

That sub won't reach the back plate

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

On the contrary, the RL-p can and will bottom out if fed too much power (it will take quite a bit of power before slammin' though). Seems everyone here has laid out the cards and now it's time for ls1pimp to make some decisions. For one thing, lay off that gain man - you don't want to destroy the woofer before you have a chance to get your setup set straight! Get your wiring to the battery and try to find a way to use either a 1.25 - 1.35 NET volume sealed or 1.5 - 2.0 NET volume ported @ 34 Hz enclosure. 0.85 cu ft NET is simply not going to give you the output you want PERIOD.

Don't forget about enclosure positioning and noise cancellation as well - but seriously man:

• Get wiring done properly
  
• Ease up on your gain - if the woofer is clippin' and makin' all sorts of nasty noise, you are hurting it and need to back off on the gain.
  
• Change your enclosure
  

So now that you've heard this so many times, are you ready to go do it?!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Do you even read the posts ?

[ls1pimp 0]

That sub won't reach the back plate

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

On the contrary, the RL-p can and will bottom out if fed too much power (it will take quite a bit of power before slammin' though). Seems everyone here has laid out the cards and now it's time for ls1pimp to make some decisions. For one thing, lay off that gain man - you don't want to destroy the woofer before you have a chance to get your setup set straight! Get your wiring to the battery and try to find a way to use either a 1.25 - 1.35 NET volume sealed or 1.5 - 2.0 NET volume ported @ 34 Hz enclosure. 0.85 cu ft NET is simply not going to give you the output you want PERIOD.

Don't forget about enclosure positioning and noise cancellation as well - but seriously man:

• Get wiring done properly
  
• Ease up on your gain - if the woofer is clippin' and makin' all sorts of nasty noise, you are hurting it and need to back off on the gain.
  
• Change your enclosure
  

So now that you've heard this so many times, are you ready to go do it?!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Do you even read the posts ?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Does net mean after sub displacement or before?

[Acidburn 10]

after...

[jellyfish420 0]

def the 2ft @ 34Hz...trust me

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

do you need help with a cut sheet?

[60ndown 0]

do you need help with a cut sheet?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i bet if he had a full compliment of tools he could screw nothing!

which means he 's at the mercy of someone with a saw? 2 cubes tuned to 34 could become 1.7 tuned to 39 in no time ...and he'll be back posting neg things about this sweet driver again?

someone trade him an audiobahn driver for pitys sake!

[ls1pimp 0]

def the 2ft @ 34Hz...trust me

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I want it to hit ridioucsly hard, but i also want it to not be very boomy and still maintain a level of SQ. Is that size going to be alright? And thats freaking huge, the box is gonna have to be like 2.2 cubes, i doubt that will fit in my trunk.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

def the 2ft @ 34Hz...trust me

I want it to hit ridioucsly hard, but i also want it to not be very boomy and still maintain a level of SQ. Is that size going to be alright? And thats freaking huge, the box is gonna have to be like 2.2 cubes, i doubt that will fit in my trunk.

mine is in a 2.0 @ 28hz, you have to get a little creative in the box design, but if you give us the info we can try to help

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Gimme $120, a vehicle, and 3 hours and it'll be enroute to your current location.