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i wanna see some opinions on yellow top batts vs kinetik? im soon gonna be in the market for 2 new batts(one in front and one in back). you can see what im running in my sig. thanks for any suggestions.

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Kinetik is better in my opinion, go to there website and see what batteries are needed for your application. Why not look at XS Power, with how much power your running you could get away with just getting one battery:

I Have a XXXXXXX watt sytem. What battery do I need? - SSA Car Audio Forum

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Battery choice depends on your budget, electrical demands, and size limitations. In testing Optimas have more power than Kinetik Cells, but Kinetik Cells lasted longer.

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Battery choice depends on your budget, electrical demands, and size limitations. In testing Optimas have more power than Kinetik Cells, but Kinetik Cells lasted longer.

no budget really, maybe 200 tops per batt...

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One D3400 would be enough for you ride and save you some money in the long, used a starting battery it has enough power for up to 2500 watts (your best bet is to talk to Nathan @ XS Power). What size is your stock battery location?

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One D3400 would be enough for you ride and save you some money in the long, used a starting battery it has enough power for up to 2500 watts (your best bet is to talk to Nathan @ XS Power). What size is your stock battery location?

im not sure of the exact size but its not very big its one. but i do have another spot under my hood to add a second batt there

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I have killed many yellow tops in my days...

My batt of choice is Odyssey... good enough to be used by the military :)

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I would say Kinetik over Optima anyday, however, you may want to check to see if Kinetik is still doing business. I got word last week through the grapevine that they are no more. Haven't found any info on that yet, just word of mouth from here, a couple local audio shops, and various other forums.

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I have not announced it yet, but the SSA Store will be having an XS group buy soon. :)

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I have not announced it yet, but the SSA Store will be having an XS group buy soon. :)

Good news! I have been wanting to upgrade my batteries and XS is on the top of that list. Cant wait to see the details of this announcement that you have not announced yet. lol

Just batteries or VCM too?

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An Optima is a small step up from your conventional battery. Go with a AGM battery FTW, Kinetik or XS is a BIG step up. The AGM batterys are equivilent to two optimas of the same size as far as car audio is concerned.

I own both Optima and XS power batterys. I have dual red tops in my Blazer w/Powermaster 200amp alt. I have D3400 and D1200 in my car, And I had An Optima before and it DIDN"T like the audio setup, The D3400 by its self is equel to 3-4 of the red tops.

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I would say Kinetik over Optima anyday, however, you may want to check to see if Kinetik is still doing business. I got word last week through the grapevine that they are no more. Haven't found any info on that yet, just word of mouth from here, a couple local audio shops, and various other forums.

Not true.

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I have not announced it yet, but the SSA Store will be having an XS group buy soon. :)

Good news! I have been wanting to upgrade my batteries and XS is on the top of that list. Cant wait to see the details of this announcement that you have not announced yet. lol

Just batteries or VCM too?

Just batteries.

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I would say Kinetik over Optima anyday, however, you may want to check to see if Kinetik is still doing business. I got word last week through the grapevine that they are no more. Haven't found any info on that yet, just word of mouth from here, a couple local audio shops, and various other forums.

Totally not true, in fact they are bigger now than they even were last year. If you look you will indeed see shops and online stores have them in stock and it is new stock.

When I worked at Kinetik back in 2005-2006 people had high output alts back then as well and I rarely seen returns. Thousands of Kinetiks were sold when I was there and less than 1 pallet came back with issues. To put the total ammount into context I took all the cells in to the local battery drop off to be recycled and they all fit in the bed of my very standard 4 banger s10 and less than 1/3 of the those batteries were kinetiks, many were out of the pallet lifts and other brand batteries that were tested (this is just one load mind you). Many of the returns were flat out not installed correctly as they would take and hold a charge (load tested as well) and were then used in electric pallet lifts. Most of the returns where the cell was bad sent to me ended up being hc600's and hc800's hooked up into systems that had SEVERAL thousands of watts and the 600-800 were the only battery in back which was well above and beyond Kinetiks recommendations + what was explained in training. I also built some mod banks when I was there and many of those won at various spl world finals in DB Drag, USACI and I do believe MECA.

I would run a dual battery system. I would make that system a matched set of batteries (not just same brand). Sure wire will cause indifferences between the front and back battery but why would making the difference gap wider with different batteries be an improvement? When I competed from 1990-1998 I only had 1 battery fail on me at a show and that was at 1997 IASCA world finals and that is the only show I didn't trophy or at least win a top 3 prize at a non sanctioned events. That battery was a red top suggested to me by a local battery shop. Back then in IASCA SQ you more times than not had above trophy level turn out. At SBN I had 19+ cars in my class and at Midwest Nationals I also had 20+ cars in my class. IIRC the smallest turn out my class had at an IASCA show I attended inbetween 1996 to 1998 was 8 (single point event).Top 5 got points/trophies.

Edited by audiolife

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so what would yall recommend with 2600 total rms watts

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It all depends on budget and space available like stated before, I already gave you a good suggestion XS Power D3400 can be used as your starting battery and support up to 2500 watts for a system (no need for secondary batteries). Give us more information to help you

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I would get an alt of at least 160 solid amps 200+ would be better and a battery front and back. The battery in back will keep your amplifier happy. Parked at idle, engine off, driving slow or driving down the highway your system will work better given everything is hooked up and working properly. In the not so distant past there were people running considerably less power be it a couple rf punch 200's and 500's, or a couple of ppi 2150's or even a kicker ss500 with another amp for components people still blew up amps, alts and speakers because they didn't have an upgraded electrical. Granted efficiency is better now but the power went up quite a bit more.

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It all depends on budget and space available like stated before, I already gave you a good suggestion XS Power D3400 can be used as your starting battery and support up to 2500 watts for a system (no need for secondary batteries). Give us more information to help you

that helps me a little bit cause i hear some people say to put a batt in the back and some people have told me that its not needed if i just put a good one up front, so thats why i'm still at the point of which way to go...know know what i mean?

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Yeah I understand, go measure your stock location (this will help us help you more).

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Lets do some math. You have a 160 amp alternator, So when you are driving down the road you alternator is producing 160 amps or 1600 watts (amps x 10=watts) at full atlernator RPM's. NOW your stereo ONLY draws the 2500 watts when you have the stereo turned ALL THE WAY UP. You battery is a storage tank for amps so we will use the D3400 for an example. The D3400 fully charged holds 4000 watts, Your car uses 750-1500 watts to operate, and the stereo is using 2500 at FULL VOLUME.

So in our example Lets assume you are listening at FULL VOLUME driving down the highway and your alternator is producing its MAX watts of 1600 and the rest of the amperage demand is drawn from the D3400 battery. The battery is filling the gap so to speak. The problem NOW is the alternator is NOT charging the battery SO after you drain the battery below the remaining amps, you WILL have voltage drop. NOW lets say you are driving down the same highway and ONLY listening at 1/2 VOLUME, Your stereo is ONLY drawning 1250 watts plus what the car is using. NOW you see that at 1/2 volume you could listen ALL day and night without much voltage drop. But at FULL volume you are ONLY going to be able to listen without voltage For a limited amount of time BEFORE you must turn the stereo down and let the atlernator charge the battery back up.

NOW the reason you see people with multible batterys is Because they want to have a longer time playing at FULL volume before they must turn the stereo down due to voltage drop OR they listen alot when they aren't driving the car to run the alternator, aka parked.

THE reason COMPETITION vehichles have multible battery is because THEY are trying to produce a VERY LARGE AMP RESERVE to use ALL AT ONCE to produce a HIGH score.

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/rant? :lol:

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/rant? laugh.gif

I am just killing time at work, Otherwise it would of been alot shorter and sweeter.smile.gif

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Too bad that 160 amp alt you speak of is rated when its cold and for a short burst, when you get the car up to normal temp your 160 amps becomes more like 100 if your lucky.

Andrew

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Too bad that 160 amp alt you speak of is rated when its cold and for a short burst, when you get the car up to normal temp your 160 amps becomes more like 100 if your lucky.

Andrew

I Agree completly with Andrew.

IF anything geting a HO alternator is better than a second battery if you ONLY listen at loud volumes when driving down the highway.

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