Interested in multi-inserts, massive battery bars and fuse blocks?

[shizzzon 461]

yea because some people may already have fuse blocks and just need a big point to connect lots of wire runs too.

For instance- let's say someone has installed 20 different LED lighting kits in their car. they have a rear battery in the back. They want to connect all these power runs from their lights to one central location that is wired off of a relay. Well, since there is no 20point block out there.. this would work fine.

Let's say someone has 10 amps in their car and all of them are already fused and want to keep them that way but run less wire to their batts, same principle.

[shizzzon 461]

ok man, i got a sketchup coming of the multi wire insert...

gimme bout 30 minutes or less and i'll get the idea out there...

The cost for these will be lower than the current $66 that others are charging on the other forums...

I can speculate that the pricing for these should be under $50 for a pair(power and ground).

[CrazyKenKid 64]

that sounds awesome!!!

[shizzzon 461]

ok, here's the pic. If there is anything i can do to make it better let me know!

The hole on the side is for the bolt that will hold the ring terminals in place.

1 ring terminal may be used on EACH side of this block for a total of 2 wire runs.

This block will be rated to accept a pass flow of 600A which is plenty.

Now, this next block is a little more BRUTAL-

This next block says, ... 600A continuous isn't enough, lol, we need.... oh... 850A continuous capability!

here that one is-

the pricing difference in the two isn't that much different believe it or not.

I am NOT going to be making both of these... Either one or the other, not both.

The price difference is only a $5 increase with going with QUAD wire runs.

The debate here is this-

The current flow through each one is more than enough....

the question is... which one is in higher demand?

Running 4 cables to one input or 2?

My vote is keep it at 2 runs... but if somebody thinks otherwise, speak up.

[CrazyKenKid 64]

my vote is also 2! and these will be made of copper or alum?

[shizzzon 461]

these are 99.94% solid copper

[slim2fattycake 85]

Get done with this and my bussbar.

[shizzzon 461]

lol, phi's not getting any of this stuff.. only i am for testing for the time being.

he's getting other stuff.

[CrazyKenKid 64]

any idea on pricing for the multi inputs to single output blocks? (2 input version)

also maybe to inprove the look of it you can do a hole and setscrew idea!! alos maybe a D style input rather then a ◙ (square with 45's) i looks like the one you showed in your sketup file are a square idea with 4 bigger 45's on each corner to only 2 points of contact.

[shizzzon 461]

well, i'm not doing wire inserts on these, these are purely ring terminal only. I personally do not care for wire inserts due to fraying over time.

Now, i DO understand what you are saying about the D design.

that's actually what i wanted to go with... However, i still am leaving that option open in case i can get that made...

All other marketed wire gauge reducers use the square 45 method. I was a bit leary of it too but apparently they work fine.

If i can retain the D look, i'll be sure to post it here.

I wont discuss pricing until i know they are made properly.

[shizzzon 461]

ok, here is the first of some bars.

these bars are for 2 Deka 9a31s. the batteries are located on each side of the vehicle so no buss bars could be used.

he needed extra connections capable to each battery post, power and ground.

None of these holes are tapped. It's not necessary to tap them but if you need them tapped, i can tap them.

The bottom hole on each bar is for the battery's post terminal. the other 4 holes are for the wire runs.

These bars are rated to accept a continuous load of 700A. That should be enough for about 20,000w worth of amps for daily use on average!(average draw taken assumes 33-50% continuous draw of maximum current rating).

He has less than 4,000w in the vehicle so this is actually way overkill but he does compete.

These particular bars go for $40 per battery shipped (2 flats for power and ground) or $65 for 2 batteries shipped via USPS.

Pricing fluctuates with ampacity requirement and it's gets cheaper the more you need which is always good.

[slim2fattycake 85]

I wouldn't mind if they were tapped. It would mean no need for nuts and it would be easy to remove and put on terminals.

[worstenemy453 11]

There is some good ideas floating in this thread. I like it.

[shizzzon 461]

I'm ordering a pretty large stock of materials tomorrow morning so the ideas that are presented here are put to work.

there will be pics n prices in a week or two.

[CrazyKenKid 64]

wow wild angle of cut there on the bus bars lol!!! i wish i would have taken a pic of the ones i made!! 3/8 tapped alls (5) 1inch by 7inch long and .25 thick!

o well they look good!

as for the D shape input if you make them with it i would be interested in a couple of pairs but if you have the sqaure input i am no long interested. and yes i do relize the reduce use the square idea but i am not cool with it, with the D shape there is so much more points of contact on the sqaure one with big 45's there is only about 8 tops (each corner of the 45)

but that is just me!! and it is cool you know what i was geting it lol!!

[topgun 262]

Whats up with nothing being at 90* to each other?

[CrazyKenKid 64]

Whats up with nothing being at 90* to each other?

90? (degrees) lol dangerous lol looks lol

also more points of contact!

well potential points of contact if it made to a specific size it is undersided you will lost have of the points of contact

plus over time those sharp corner (90/ and 45) will wear down and could pose an issue (get loose) which is why the D shape is a bit better of an idea!

[MKader17 332]

What in the world did you cut that stuff with???

Do you own a T-square?

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Anyone can spend $20 on copper and drill themselves as well as cut straight.

[shizzzon 461]

lol, the bandsaw i will be using was not in my possession when i did those... I had to do those freehand and i mean freehand... in the air and everything, lol.

When i do the fuse block, it will be all on a table which is the next thing on the list.

Yea crazykenkid, as of right now, i fully understand what you are saying but at this time... the tools to do it have disappeared from my possession so i put it back on the list until i get access to them permanently.

[shizzzon 461]

also, there was nothing special with those bars i posted.. they were left over stock for somebody that needed some extra connections.. gimme a week or two for the fuse block to be made.

[CrazyKenKid 64]

lol, the bandsaw i will be using was not in my possession when i did those... I had to do those freehand and i mean freehand... in the air and everything, lol.

When i do the fuse block, it will be all on a table which is the next thing on the list.

Yea crazykenkid, as of right now, i fully understand what you are saying but at this time... the tools to do it have disappeared from my possession so i put it back on the list until i get access to them permanently.

got ya! keep in touch with me when you do and if you don't i may be able to help you out! as i have full access to a cnc bridgeport...come may(provided i don't get a co-op)

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Are you silver plating after you cut and drill? If not, you are going to have a corrosion problem if not using a deoxidizing compound.

Also, where do you plan on selling these? An online store?

[CrazyKenKid 64]

out of his garage i bet lol!!! that way he doesn't have to pay tax on it! lol!

[shizzzon 461]

i already know about the corrosive use and all that. fully aware.

Those bars in the pic are copper and are unprotected. the user has a bottle of protection he can use on them.

I will be building the block out of aluminum.

Both the copper alloy that was used to make the bars and the aluminum i will be using has extremely high corrosion resistant properties.

I am being told it will take several years without protection for the material to begin a noticeable state of oxidation that would start to degrade performance if not coated.

Many people may not even coat theirs due to the time it would take. Others who want to can purchase products for aluminum and copper.

i am about to go sleep so i'll be back later tomorrow about this if necessary.