Jump to content
j-roadtatts

most effective use of Luxury Liner Pro?

Recommended Posts

I would Love to hear from a few people that have used Luxury liner pro.

I have 4 sheets of LLP. I bought the LLP with the plans of installing on the front floors and under the front door panels. If I have any left I plan on the front of the rear wheel wells. The box will be forward firing with the trunck sealed off. I have already dampenered the inside of the car.

My goals are to lower the highway road noise and just to lower the noise floor of the car.

I realize every application is differant but would like to hear what results and experiences some people have had with the LLP.

I have used the search function with no luck and also went to the SS forum but them guys are into overkill, and I trust you guys opinion's more.

Budget is not a problem but I don't want to waste money either.......I've seen people do alot of stupid shit and don't need to be that guy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would talk/email Don at sound deadener showdown. He has a wealth of knowledge with deadening and the proper way/material to get your bang for the buck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unlike mat, a barrier has to be full coverage to work. Otherwise the areas that aren't covered "leak". That being said, I am not proposing you cover your whole car in it, but if for instance you choose to do a door you should cover the whole door :)

The people on the SS forum are overkill since the owner pushes overkill, part of the reason I don't respect him. Pushing product to be used where it doesn't do any good sucks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya, I hear Don's a great guy. I read his write-up a year or so ago, I see he has his own company now. I would feel kinda bad calling him and asking about SS product though.

I tryed calling Second Skin but they are gone until the 22.

I will call Don So I can get this right So I am happy. I'm sure I will need some more stuff so I can give him some of my Money for his time.

I would still like to hear from a consumer or two if there are any.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I emailed don my phone number, we will see IF he calls.

I have read every dampeners website like 3-4 times over the last year and have absorbed most of the info. I understand the science behind the dampener, closed cell foam, and vinyl barrier. I understand why I am doing what I am doing.

I would do the whole inside of the car with LLP or the likes if money grew on trees, but I am starting in the front of the car where I sit first. Then the trouble spots next, if this is good enough for me than I will call it good.

Most of the outside noise comes threw the front floor, front doors, a-b pillars and front of the rear wheel wells. MOST of the rear wheel well will be encased with foam so this will probly stop most rear well wheel noise, I will only cover the front side behind the rear seat where it doesn't fold down. this only leaves under the bottom of the rear seat and the rear floors and rear doors without the LLP.(not counting the roof,I'll do last if needed) The parts I will be leaving un-done for now are easy to get back to I decide they need the LLP. The rear deck will have foam against most of the bottom so once again probly pretty solid.

the other reason I am doing the front doors also because I will have 600watts to each door.(300 midrange and tweeter, 300 middbass)

If you are wondering I am not doing any of the trunk at this time.(will be sealed from the passanger compartment)

As you guys can see I already have a plan, but would like to hear what people think of this plan.

As I already have said this is my first time with deadening,when I was younger I always just thought of making the stereo louder but understand lowering the noise floor now. I am currently more into SQ.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm sure Don will call, he's a great guy. I talked to him recently when I bought some CLD tiles. Sounds like a nice project, I'd love to see how it turns out as I am considering doing some barriers in the future.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see you covered the floor of your car with dampener also, did that do anything to help with road noise. I was thinking of doing my floor with a cell foam and then a layer of mass vinyl on top and no dampener. Curious as if the dampener is needed also?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see you covered the floor of your car with dampener also, did that do anything to help with road noise. I was thinking of doing my floor with a cell foam and then a layer of mass vinyl on top and no dampener. Curious as if the dampener is needed also?

I did do the whole floor with dampener, probably overkill if you are using closed cell and vinyl barrier. I am doing just the single layer because I have it apart to do the liner and won't ever take it apart again. The Dampener DOES make a nice CLEAN and SMOOTH surface to glue to.

The car did seem very little bit quieter from just the dampener as I'm working in it. I will never know for sure if the dampener made a big difference on road noise by its self though? Only about 125 dollars worth so for ME I said f*ck it just to QUIT THINKING about it.trippy.gif

I am working on the first piece of LLP right now, just came inside for a Sharpie marker......

Let me know what you guys think, I wouldn't start a topic if I didn't REALLY WANT TO KNOW YOUR OPINIONS......THANKS in advance.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont think the foam needs to be glued down but I dont know for sure didnt do that much research on it, guess I will wait for Don to chime in hopefully or someone else with experience with the products. Looking good, keep up the good work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I dont the foam needs to be glued down but I dont know for sure didnt do that much research on it, guess I will wait for Don to chime in hopefully or someone else with experience with the products. Looking good, keep up the good work.

I have a piece cut to fit and you could proply get away with not glueing, very rigid stuff.(think wrestling mat) I will probably glue it down anyways. I DO know I MUST tape all edges and seams with foil tape.

I will post a picture in a few.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a picture of the first piece.....You guys should know by now how anal I am about being patient and taking my time.

Don hasn't called so no words of wisdom there yet....

med_gallery_10399_356_281328.jpg

just the test fit......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I said f*ck it, its only money and did the whole floor. I already have THE car back together also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am going to order another 4 sheets LLP and DO the WHOLE BUBBLE........should be sweet!!!!!

med_gallery_10399_356_644056.jpg

Filled the seat rails with Expading Foam..........couldn't have the extra material there. I think it shall be quiet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is looking very solid. Hopefully it does the trick. I need to do the same type of thing to my truck.:drink40:

You live, learn, and spend a shit load of money in between!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is the nice thing about buying some a month before starting and more now. Not Paying all at once is easier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks solid. how much weight is that total?

reminds me of those lead shirt things you put on while getting x-rays... scary lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks solid. how much weight is that total?

reminds me of those lead shirt things you put on while getting x-rays... scary lol

It should, same application really :) Lead sheeting works in the car too, but it isn't so cost effective.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks solid. how much weight is that total?

reminds me of those lead shirt things you put on while getting x-rays... scary lol

It should, same application really :) Lead sheeting works in the car too, but it isn't so cost effective.

Might add on just a couple more pounds too, just a couple.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks solid. how much weight is that total?

reminds me of those lead shirt things you put on while getting x-rays... scary lol

The total weight added to the car from LLP and Damplifier will be 153lbs. This will be a total of 8 sheets LLP @10.8 lbs a sheet and 100 sq ft Damplifier @ .65 lbs a sq ft.

I just ordered another 4 sheets of LLP and another 40 sq ft Damplifier, I wish Don would of called but I can't wait for other people, not my style. f*ck at least I'm spending every dollar I can to People in America, Lets get this MuthaFucka rollin' again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks solid. how much weight is that total?

reminds me of those lead shirt things you put on while getting x-rays... scary lol

It should, same application really :) Lead sheeting works in the car too, but it isn't so cost effective.

Might add on just a couple more pounds too, just a couple.

Which is also the goal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks solid. how much weight is that total?

reminds me of those lead shirt things you put on while getting x-rays... scary lol

It should, same application really smile.gif Lead sheeting works in the car too, but it isn't so cost effective.

Might add on just a couple more pounds too, just a couple.

Which is also the goal.

Yes weight and mass are good things, just not to much or in the WRONG places.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I gather, "dampener" (Dynamat, Damplifier, et al) are for loading a flat panel with weight to reduce resonance. The use for this would be the door skins, for example. Parts where there are curves, welds, etc are decently stiff already.

Then you get into MLV and CCF, which are noise "blockers." Putting down 50 layers of Dynamat on the floor may make a difference...but...it takes a lot of it, and it's the wrong application.

The ideal application would be CCF with an unbroken layer of MLV on top, glued together, with 100% coverage from both.

None of this is my own info...just the cliffs from what I've learned. For a bonus for all my fellow cheap asses ( :D ), you could use some of the "jute" aka "carpet backing" that you can get at The HD. There's already some under your stock carpets and carpeted trim panels...that's the stuff :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I gather, "dampener" (Dynamat, Damplifier, et al) are for loading a flat panel with weight to reduce resonance. The use for this would be the door skins, for example. Parts where there are curves, welds, etc are decently stiff already.

Then you get into MLV and CCF, which are noise "blockers." Putting down 50 layers of Dynamat on the floor may make a difference...but...it takes a lot of it, and it's the wrong application.

The ideal application would be CCF with an unbroken layer of MLV on top, glued together, with 100% coverage from both.

None of this is my own info...just the cliffs from what I've learned. For a bonus for all my fellow cheap asses ( biggrin.gif ), you could use some of the "jute" aka "carpet backing" that you can get at The HD. There's already some under your stock carpets and carpeted trim panels...that's the stuff biggrin.gif

Yes damener is to stop panel resonantion. Do People NEED dampener under the CCF or MLV on the floor, Probly not but I went the extra little bit beacuse I DON'T plan on ever removing again!!!

Dampener is like holding your finger in the middle of a resonating panel, This is why you want the Mass of the dampener in the middle of big panels acting as your finger.

I will only be biulding up mass on the centers of the front doors everything else will only be the single layer. The only other place I can think of needing mass is the middle of the roof, once again the last thing I will do.

Yes the ideal coverage of CCF and MLV would be EVERYWHERE and unbroken, unfortunately this is not possible in a car(humps, curves, shifter, pedal rods, steering column, opening doors, glass, where the trim and bolts go) so we do the best we can and live with it.

If I ever do another car I will try doing the layers seperate, not because I don't like LLP beause I do, just to see for myself what is easier and what works better. I love to learn SO I am learning and hopefully so is someone else.

I did 2-3 pieces of foil tape on all edges and seems,unless you are goint to glue EVERY edge perfect I still recommend the tape. I bought my tape at wal-mart ant it was VERY sticky and RIGID.

Let me know if you have any questions, I am glad to share.

Good luck getting the upholstery back in if you use the carpet pad.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From what I gather, "dampener" (Dynamat, Damplifier, et al) are for loading a flat panel with weight to reduce resonance. The use for this would be the door skins, for example. Parts where there are curves, welds, etc are decently stiff already.

Then you get into MLV and CCF, which are noise "blockers." Putting down 50 layers of Dynamat on the floor may make a difference...but...it takes a lot of it, and it's the wrong application.

The ideal application would be CCF with an unbroken layer of MLV on top, glued together, with 100% coverage from both.

None of this is my own info...just the cliffs from what I've learned. For a bonus for all my fellow cheap asses ( :D ), you could use some of the "jute" aka "carpet backing" that you can get at The HD. There's already some under your stock carpets and carpeted trim panels...that's the stuff :D

Close. Damper doesn't work by mass loading though. Instead it works by constraining motion.

CCF is not a noise blocker, not at all. Just an isolation layer and it can help with two surfaces that rub each other.

MLV is MASS loaded vinyl. It is a blocker. In order to block noise you need mass. MLV is the cheaper version of lead sheeting which works better, but is cost prohibitive.

As for jute. It is an absorber, won't help so much in blocking outside noise but does do some absorption. Cotton wadding is what I would prefer for this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

M5 nailed it on the head.

If you are going to attemp sound deadening I suggest understanding the science behind what you are trying to accomplish.

A car will NEVER be dead silent or free of resonation, but can become ALOT quieter than they came from the factory. This is why you must understand what the end result will be and NOT expect the car to be DEAD silent but alot quieter.

Mass loaded vinyl not only blocks outside noises but will also trap the sound of my stereo inside the car, WHERE I WANT IT.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×