1200d v.2 not putting out like i think it should

[the mange 1]

Just got the new 1200d, setup with knukonceptz 4 gauge and my old 80 amp fuse from my alpine pdx 600 watt, and so far it sounds a lot more like 600 than 1200. Would I see a huge improvement if I upgraded to 1/0? The reason I ask is KnuKonceptz site says their 4 gauge handles 200 amps, and apparently the 1200 pulls only 150 amps. Either way, I'm definitely upgrading my fuse to 150 like it should be.

Edited January 12, 2010 by the mange

[Duran 387]

Change that fuse, like now.

What does your electrical system consist of?

[bigrank916 72]

Jacob said it needs it. You should do it. Thats why he made the terminals so large.

[NB50 206]

What subs are you using? Voice coils specifically.

[the mange 1]

Change that fuse, like now.

What does your electrical system consist of?

Yeah i read on the pre-sale thread he recommends the 1/0. My electrical consists of a yellow top up front, Knu 4 gauge, with the chassis to neg. terminal in 4 guage too. All my grounds are sanded. I "crimped" my wires to their ring terminals with a hammer tho last year, didn't know how to solder until a couple weeks ago. I think I'm just gonna do an electrical overhaul here and make it right.

[the mange 1]

What subs are you using? Voice coils specifically.

Using a 12" Fi BL dual2 coils in parallel

[mattd0344 2]

Just got the new 1200d, setup with knukonceptz 4 gauge and my old 80 amp fuse from my alpine pdx 600 watt, and so far it sounds a lot more like 600 than 1200. Would I see a huge improvement if I upgraded to 1/0? The reason I ask is KnuKonceptz site says their 4 gauge handles 200 amps, and apparently the 1200 pulls only 150 amps. Either way, I'm definitely upgrading my fuse to 150 like it should be.

What are your amp settings at? Obviously you're not pulling in much current or that 80 amp fuse would have blown.

[hrtbrk1 2]

yeah...ur fuse should have went to heaven

[KU40 173]

Change that fuse, like now.

What does your electrical system consist of?

Having too small of a fuse won't cause any problems.

How did you set the gain?

[Kanaworm$ 292]

Just got the new 1200d, setup with knukonceptz 4 gauge and my old 80 amp fuse from my alpine pdx 600 watt, and so far it sounds a lot more like 600 than 1200. Would I see a huge improvement if I upgraded to 1/0? The reason I ask is KnuKonceptz site says their 4 gauge handles 200 amps, and apparently the 1200 pulls only 150 amps. Either way, I'm definitely upgrading my fuse to 150 like it should be.

I would assume your amp is wired to 1 ohm?

Is your subwoofer dual 2 ohm voice coil?

With that amplifier make sure you have the correct power wire size and fusing. Also to make sure you have the "Big 3" done on your electrical.

[sundownz 197]

Just got the new 1200d, setup with knukonceptz 4 gauge and my old 80 amp fuse from my alpine pdx 600 watt, and so far it sounds a lot more like 600 than 1200. Would I see a huge improvement if I upgraded to 1/0? The reason I ask is KnuKonceptz site says their 4 gauge handles 200 amps, and apparently the 1200 pulls only 150 amps. Either way, I'm definitely upgrading my fuse to 150 like it should be.

If you have it @ 1 ohm you need 1/0 wire.

[theabunai 3]

I don't know your level of car audio knowledge so i'm just gonna throw this out..

Are you certain you wired the sub up to a final load of 1ohm ?

Do you have a DMM ??

If so i'd meter the speaker wires disconnected from the amp to assure you have a final load of 1ohm...

Also take a phone pic of the amps settings... last time a customer said these exact words and wanted to warranty the amp thinking it was broken i asked to take a look at it first. the SSF and the LP filter was off by a shit ton.. after i tweaked the filters dramatic improvement on sound...

[Duran 387]

Change that fuse, like now.

What does your electrical system consist of?

Having too small of a fuse won't cause any problems.

How did you set the gain?

You read that wrong KU, I didn't say the fuse is the reason for the low power. That's what my electrical question was for.

[Sir-Lancelot 216]

1200w vs 600w would only be a slight increase in volume. Sucks but that's the way it is.

Maybe you were just expecting more and it didnt live up.

Get you electrical and wiring up to snuff and make your set up as effecient as possible.

[sadistic 13]

I don't know your level of car audio knowledge so i'm just gonna throw this out..

Are you certain you wired the sub up to a final load of 1ohm ?

Do you have a DMM ??

If so i'd meter the speaker wires disconnected from the amp to assure you have a final load of 1ohm...

Also take a phone pic of the amps settings... last time a customer said these exact words and wanted to warranty the amp thinking it was broken i asked to take a look at it first. the SSF and the LP filter was off by a shit ton.. after i tweaked the filters dramatic improvement on sound...

good points i think they said in the pre build that the amp was close to 1,500+ rms which if it is would make about 400-500 rms at 4 ohm maybe. but any ways ohm out the speaker terminals for the box make sure the final is not 4 ohm but 1 ohm and yes if your going to run it at 1 ohm you need up grade that wiring to 1/o like i got to do. this is why thus far i have not hooked up my amp yet and really want to. if it is one ohm check the gain etc.. settings btw here are some specks.

SPECIFICATIONS:

•1200 x 1 watts @ 1 ohm

•600 x 1 watts @ 2 ohms

•300 x 1 watts @ 4 ohms

•0.153v - 5.6v adjustable input sensitivity

•RCA Line-Out Jack

•15 Hz - 250 Hz Frequency Response

•> 90 dB S/N Ratio

•4-Way Protection Circuit (Thermal, Overload, Speaker Short, and Over Current)

•50 Hz - 250 Hz adjustable 12dB Low-Pass Crossover

•15 Hz - 50 Hz adjustable 12dB Subsonic Filter

•0 or 180 degree adjustable phase switch

•0 - 12 dB adjustable bass boost with 60 Hz center frequency

•Wired Remote Control unit included

•5x 30 Amp Internal Fuses

•17" L x 10.6" W x 2.2" H

•MSRP $499 USD

The SAE model Class-D amplifiers are only suitable for operation up to 15.0 volts -- they are not stable on 16v electrical systems like the SAZ Class-D amplifiers

[repnthe9 0]

i suggest that you upgrade your wire to 1/0 as jacob has stated if your going to run your sub at 1 ohm. it only makes sense to run your equipment the right way and what is recommended.

[the mange 1]

I don't know your level of car audio knowledge so i'm just gonna throw this out..

Are you certain you wired the sub up to a final load of 1ohm ?

Do you have a DMM ??

If so i'd meter the speaker wires disconnected from the amp to assure you have a final load of 1ohm...

Also take a phone pic of the amps settings... last time a customer said these exact words and wanted to warranty the amp thinking it was broken i asked to take a look at it first. the SSF and the LP filter was off by a shit ton.. after i tweaked the filters dramatic improvement on sound...

Dang I feel like a complete noob for asking, but just to make sure I've got it wired right, I have it setup like this: (d2 coils). Cause I've never had an amp with more than one pair of speaker terminals.

Sundown says the channels are in parallel internally, so this is 1 ohm right?

My gain is a little bit over half way turned up, LPF is ~70, SSF is ~20.

[Duran 387]

You have that wiring completely wrong, no wonder your not getting much output form the amplifier.

Wire it like this:

Just bypass one set of terminals at the amp, only use one.

Adjust your gain correctly as well. "a little bit over half way turned up" is NOT the right way to do it. Your subsonic filter is also quite low, it should be ~5Hz. below tuning.

[sundownz 197]

His diagram is a bit confusing but I think he may have it correct... if the left side of the box (coil) is + and the right side is - then he has it in parallel.

It is a matter of a few things:

1) Needing larger power wire

2) I read on SMD that he also changed woofers -- the new woofer may not perform as well in the enclosure

3) Maximum gain in theory is 3 dB anyway -- which to the ear is only deemed around 30% louder (10 dB sounds twice as loud even though 3 dB is double the pressure)

[masteryoda 2]

Not sure if you got this fixed yet but i have an older version 1 SAE-1200 and wiried at one ohm it sure puts out well over 1200 watts been testing it out in my trunk car and with two DB Drive 12's in a prefab box I was able to do over a 145.00db sealed on the dash! very strong amp! I would think that with a better box and the same subs and amp I should be over a 146.00 soon just trying to get the best score I can with this little power house! I am sure you will realy like this amp once you get this worked out and good luck to you.

[the mange 1]

His diagram is a bit confusing but I think he may have it correct... if the left side of the box (coil) is + and the right side is - then he has it in parallel.

It is a matter of a few things:

1) Needing larger power wire

2) I read on *** that he also changed woofers -- the new woofer may not perform as well in the enclosure

3) Maximum gain in theory is 3 dB anyway -- which to the ear is only deemed around 30% louder (10 dB sounds twice as loud even though 3 dB is double the pressure)

Yeah sorry about that diagram I wasn't sure how else to do it with MS Paint. But yes the left side of each coil/box is supposed to be the + terminal. I'm headed back to school on sunday where I won't have my car but come summer I'll definitely upgrade to 1/0 and more likely than not a new box.

Sundownz- what size enclosure would you recommend after all displacements for a new box? The current box is ~2.3ft^3 after port, sub and bracing. The BL is supposed to bridge the gap between the BTL and the Q so I'm guessing it would perform best in a more spl oriented enclosure, tuned closer to 35 hz maybe?

[Duran 387]

His diagram is a bit confusing but I think he may have it correct... if the left side of the box (coil) is + and the right side is - then he has it in parallel.

It is a matter of a few things:

1) Needing larger power wire

2) I read on *** that he also changed woofers -- the new woofer may not perform as well in the enclosure

3) Maximum gain in theory is 3 dB anyway -- which to the ear is only deemed around 30% louder (10 dB sounds twice as loud even though 3 dB is double the pressure)

Yeah sorry about that diagram I wasn't sure how else to do it with MS Paint. But yes the left side of each coil/box is supposed to be the + terminal. I'm headed back to school on sunday where I won't have my car but come summer I'll definitely upgrade to 1/0 and more likely than not a new box.

Sundownz- what size enclosure would you recommend after all displacements for a new box? The current box is ~2.3ft^3 after port, sub and bracing. The BL is supposed to bridge the gap between the BTL and the Q so I'm guessing it would perform best in a more spl oriented enclosure, tuned closer to 35 hz maybe?

Sundownz is the owner of Sudown Audio and is not associated with Fi, Fi recommends 1.5 Ft³ to 2.5 Ft³ per 12" BL.

[the mange 1]

Yeah I got that off their site too, which is why I built mine to around 2.5 after displacements, but a bunch of other people are saying go bigger, like 3 to even 3.5. I'll email Fi and see what they say.

[KU40 173]

If you go bigger the power handling of the sub will be reduced. It probably would not be able to handle the full output of that amplifier.

I'll ask again, how did you set your gain? Did you just arbitrarily set it a little over half? What voltage does your head unit put out down the RCAs?

[the mange 1]

If you go bigger the power handling of the sub will be reduced. It probably would not be able to handle the full output of that amplifier.

I'll ask again, how did you set your gain? Did you just arbitrarily set it a little over half? What voltage does your head unit put out down the RCAs?

My pioneer has 4v pre-outs. After reading this I just set it by ear and that's what I thought sounds best.

Edited January 15, 2010 by the mange