Why doesnt my Q 12 work?

[unclehulka13 0]

I noticed my sub isnt working at all. I thought there was a problem with my amp, or maybe the speaker wire came off inside the box. So as i checked all the aforementioned things, i pressed down on the cone and got a little burp of bass, but nothing else constant. Did i blow my sub? Is there any way to determine whats wrong? Any solution as to fix it?

[jcarter1885 995]

I noticed my sub isnt working at all. I thought there was a problem with my amp, or maybe the speaker wire came off inside the box. So as i checked all the aforementioned things, i pressed down on the cone and got a little burp of bass, but nothing else constant. Did i blow my sub? Is there any way to determine whats wrong? Any solution as to fix it?

What equipment do you have in your car (amp, electrical upgrades)? What are your settings on your amp? Get a DMM and measure your voice coils and see what they are reading.

[altoncustomtech 773]

sounds like there's a failure somewhere in regards to the tinsel leads.... hard to believe considering the # of them in these things... I'd email Nick and let him know what's up, could be a cold solder joint, shit happens sometimes...

[unclehulka13 0]

sounds like there's a failure somewhere in regards to the tinsel leads.... hard to believe considering the # of them in these things... I'd email Nick and let him know what's up, could be a cold solder joint, shit happens sometimes...

Will do.

As far as specs. Sub is in a ported 2.5 cuFT box, alpine mrd1000 amp with stock electrical system. Amp worked fine on replacement sub. Amp gain is all the way down. Ive only had the sub for 6 months or so.

[lithium 358]

sounds like there's a failure somewhere in regards to the tinsel leads.... hard to believe considering the # of them in these things... I'd email Nick and let him know what's up, could be a cold solder joint, shit happens sometimes...

how the hell did you determine this? sounds to me like you have no idea what your talking about..

[lithium 358]

sounds like there's a failure somewhere in regards to the tinsel leads.... hard to believe considering the # of them in these things... I'd email Nick and let him know what's up, could be a cold solder joint, shit happens sometimes...

Will do.

As far as specs. Sub is in a ported 2.5 cuFT box, alpine mrd1000 amp with stock electrical system. Amp worked fine on replacement sub. Amp gain is all the way down. Ive only had the sub for 6 months or so.

did you pull the sub and check connection, and put a dmm on the coils?

[NB50 206]

sounds like there's a failure somewhere in regards to the tinsel leads.... hard to believe considering the # of them in these things... I'd email Nick and let him know what's up, could be a cold solder joint, shit happens sometimes...

how the hell did you determine this? sounds to me like you have no idea what your talking about..

It could be the tinsel leads, I had a sub that exhibited the same problems and it was the tinsels. It is hard to imagine happening on the Fi though, as I believe they use the sandwiched leads unless it was a model before they started doing it.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Lithium..... Years of experience told me this, the sub working when you push on it is a VERY common sign that there's tinsel lead problems. A DMM won't tell you anything about a problem such as that except that when you push the sub in, or pull it out to a certain point that it gets a connection and therefore a reading at that moment.

[unclehulka13 0]

Lithium..... Years of experience told me this, the sub working when you push on it is a VERY common sign that there's tinsel lead problems. A DMM won't tell you anything about a problem such as that except that when you push the sub in, or pull it out to a certain point that it gets a connection and therefore a reading at that moment.

So I tried the DMM, Left coil read 1.5 ohm. right coil read nothing. Don't know if the DMM was bad or not. The sub is supposed to be dual 1 ohm to get a final load of 2 ohm. Don't know if that helps at all. Looks like i'll be upgrading subs.

Edited December 19, 2009 by unclehulka13

[altoncustomtech 773]

The DMM is fine... The "right" coil appears to have a lead messed up somewhere, push or pull the cone a little and see if you can get it to read. If it does then that almost certainly means there is a connection problem with the tinsel leads on that coil. The thing to do is Email Nick about the problem, if you bought it new and it's only 6 months old it's under warranty and will be repaired no problem I'm sure. If you didn't buy it new he would probably still give you a break on repair as this is not a normal problem with these subs. Best thing to do is get a hold of Nick about it. Fi is renowned for their excellent customer service, I don't believe you'll be disappointed.

[jcarter1885 995]

Lithium..... Years of experience told me this, the sub working when you push on it is a VERY common sign that there's tinsel lead problems. A DMM won't tell you anything about a problem such as that except that when you push the sub in, or pull it out to a certain point that it gets a connection and therefore a reading at that moment.

So I tried the DMM, Left coil read 1.5 ohm. right coil read nothing. Don't know if the DMM was bad or not. The sub is supposed to be dual 1 ohm to get a final load of 2 ohm. Don't know if that helps at all. Looks like i'll be upgrading subs.

Sounds like your voice coil is bad. You need to find out how this problem arose instead of just buying a new sub to do the same thing to it, which would be ridiculous.

[unclehulka13 0]

Lithium..... Years of experience told me this, the sub working when you push on it is a VERY common sign that there's tinsel lead problems. A DMM won't tell you anything about a problem such as that except that when you push the sub in, or pull it out to a certain point that it gets a connection and therefore a reading at that moment.

So I tried the DMM, Left coil read 1.5 ohm. right coil read nothing. Don't know if the DMM was bad or not. The sub is supposed to be dual 1 ohm to get a final load of 2 ohm. Don't know if that helps at all. Looks like i'll be upgrading subs.

Sounds like your voice coil is bad. You need to find out how this problem arose instead of just buying a new sub to do the same thing to it, which would be ridiculous.

You say this if it's entirely my fault that the coil failed. Could be the tinsel leads no?

I dont know if maybe it has something to do with the cold weather?

Edited December 19, 2009 by unclehulka13

[jcarter1885 995]

Lithium..... Years of experience told me this, the sub working when you push on it is a VERY common sign that there's tinsel lead problems. A DMM won't tell you anything about a problem such as that except that when you push the sub in, or pull it out to a certain point that it gets a connection and therefore a reading at that moment.

So I tried the DMM, Left coil read 1.5 ohm. right coil read nothing. Don't know if the DMM was bad or not. The sub is supposed to be dual 1 ohm to get a final load of 2 ohm. Don't know if that helps at all. Looks like i'll be upgrading subs.

Sounds like your voice coil is bad. You need to find out how this problem arose instead of just buying a new sub to do the same thing to it, which would be ridiculous.

You say this if it's entirely my fault that the coil failed. Could be the tinsel leads no?

I dont know if maybe it has something to do with the cold weather?

Cold weather wouldnt have nothing to do with it as long as you were playing it responsibly, it would either be user error or a error that happened after it left FI. That is why I said what are your amp's settings so we can tell if it was you or not. Hopefully you dont have bass boost or loud on your amp or headunit. I didnt say it was your fault no where in those two sentences, so how you figured that out from what I said makes it look like your fault since you got offended. A sub does what the user tells it to do so if it didnt come broke then it could only break from one other way, that is user error (thats it). But it would be smart to figure out how it got damage then just to buy another sub so you will know if you did it or not, and if you did it then buying another sub would result in the same activity.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Playing it full blast when it's cold wouldn't be good for any sub, they should always be played at low volumes for awhile until everything warms up a little. You really need to check the other coil while moving the cone and see if you can get a reading AND you need to send an email to Fi (Nick directly would probably be best) and tell them what's going on. If you bough this new 6 months ago its still under warranty, and the guys are right about figuring out what the cause is, be it a blown coil or a messed up tinsel lead.

If you discover its a tinsel lead problem, playing it hard in the cold could have helped cause the failure. If you can't get a reading while moving the cone then the coil is blown and it would most likely be due to driving the amp to clipping. There's some more checking to do on your end to be more sure what's going on with it.

On a side note, before you had problems with it, how did it sound? I love my Q's!

[altoncustomtech 773]

LOL thats funny.... two opposite replys.... sorry about that, It would probably be better to say its just best practice not to play them HARD below freezing temperatures.

Edited December 19, 2009 by Alton

[unclehulka13 0]

LOL thats funny.... two opposite replys.... sorry about that, It would probably be better to say its just best practice not to play them HARD below freezing temperatures.

No bass boost. Gain at 0. I hope its fixable, i love the sub. Im gonna have to assume it was the cold since i havent changed anything in the last 6 months except for the weather.

[KU40 173]

Cold won't burn voice coils. Too much power does. If the voice coil is messed up, as it seems to be, that is just from putting too much power to it. Even if it's the tinsel leads messed up, after 6 months that's no longer a manufacturer defect, either. Overpowering a sub will eventually kill it, sometimes it's just a little-by-little process.

[unclehulka13 0]

Cold won't burn voice coils. Too much power does. If the voice coil is messed up, as it seems to be, that is just from putting too much power to it. Even if it's the tinsel leads messed up, after 6 months that's no longer a manufacturer defect, either. Overpowering a sub will eventually kill it, sometimes it's just a little-by-little process.

It must have clipped then. I'm only running 1000w with the gain all the way down.

[altoncustomtech 773]

clipped is most likely, and I didn't mean the cold could hurt the VC like burning them up, I meant it could damage the suspension of the sub....

[jcarter1885 995]

Cold won't burn voice coils. Too much power does. If the voice coil is messed up, as it seems to be, that is just from putting too much power to it. Even if it's the tinsel leads messed up, after 6 months that's no longer a manufacturer defect, either. Overpowering a sub will eventually kill it, sometimes it's just a little-by-little process.

Thats what I was saying but everybody wanted to blame it on the cold weather, fucking hilarious if you ask me

[unclehulka13 0]

Cold won't burn voice coils. Too much power does. If the voice coil is messed up, as it seems to be, that is just from putting too much power to it. Even if it's the tinsel leads messed up, after 6 months that's no longer a manufacturer defect, either. Overpowering a sub will eventually kill it, sometimes it's just a little-by-little process.

Thats what I was saying but everybody wanted to blame it on the cold weather, pucking hilarious if you ask me

So now would you recommend getting it repaired, or upgrading to a BL.

[jcarter1885 995]

We need more information; such as: box size, tuning frequency, amp your using, vehicle upgrades if any.

I wouldnt recommend upgrading anything if your clipping the Q then you will do the same thing to the BL. I would suggest that you get it fixed since that will be cheaper, now if you dont like your Q or something then the upgrading and spending money decision is up to you.

[unclehulka13 0]

We need more information; such as: box size, tuning frequency, amp your using, vehicle upgrades if any.

I wouldnt recommend upgrading anything if your clipping the Q then you will do the same thing to the BL. I would suggest that you get it fixed since that will be cheaper, now if you dont like your Q or something then the upgrading and spending money decision is up to you.

Escort. 2.5cuFT tuned to 32. alpine mrp-m1000 amp running at 2ohm. Just running stock electrical right now. I only drive the car about 3-5 times a week, but i like to sound good when i am driving.

I was mistaken. My gain was set to NOM and i was at a 6db bass boost on the amp.

+2bass on HU. +7of15 on HU for sub.

seems like a clipped. Not happy about being a moron.

Edited December 20, 2009 by unclehulka13

[jcarter1885 995]

I would get my subwoofer fixed and then adjust my settings to where they should be and enjoy my setup for how long it last or until you want an upgrade in the future (the cheapest resolution to your current problem).

[unclehulka13 0]

I would get my subwoofer fixed and then adjust my settings to where they should be and enjoy my setup for how long it last or until you want an upgrade in the future (the cheapest resolution to your current problem).

Where should they be?