Doubling amp power

[Outbacksound 1]

Would going from ~130w to 300w each amongst 4 infinity 1252w's be worth the strain on my car's electrical system? It would only be a difference of 3, maybe 4 decibels. Would a high output alternator be necessary for 1200w, as well as a deep cycle battery? Or should I stick with the setup I have, and not have to dump around $500 into the electrical system of a car I don't plan on keeping? I could always take my battery, so I might get that if it would make a difference on it's own. My lights dim really bad, but even when I step on the brake or roll up a window w/ out the stereo on. My grounds are good, but perhaps my headlight ground is bad? Sorry, I know this ended up being many questions in one post.

[Mac N Cheese 90]

I would say just do the big 3 and that should fix the dimming lights

[jrod1050 5]

What kind of car do you have? The big 3 will definately help out

[Lucky 76 5]

The big 3 will help out but it sounds like your alternator has gone to crap. Dimmage means voltage drop and if your lights are dimming just from your brake you might have a problem. Take a multimeter and measure the output voltage at idle and revved to around 2200 rpm without any accessories on (positive to alternator positive terminal and neg to ground). Now do the same with the windows and or brake and see where your voltage is at. Do the same test at the battery now. Come back with some info and we will be able to see what is going on with your setup.

If your electrical is healthy the big 3 will be enough.

[slim2fattycake 85]

Yeah, something else is wrong with your electrical. It is not because you don't have the big 3 if lights dim when you roll the window. What happens when you turn on the AC or Heat on high? Have your battery and alternator checked at autozone.

[Outbacksound 1]

I just replaced my battery and alternator at autozone. I killed them together by listening to the system (quietly) with the car off. Next day, car wouldn't start, so I took the battery to autozone, they charged it, said it was bad, battery light was still on, ran the alt. test and was putting out 12.5v with the car running. Not good. So, I replaced them. I had dimming lights before they were replaced too. I took a DMM to my battery the other day, and had a full 14.4v at idle, system on and loud, dropping to ~13.8-14v, so that was okay, but the lights on and the system going was about 13.5v, should still be okay, but lights dim. My stock alt. Is an 85 amp, pretty weak. It's a Subaru outback (go ahead and laugh, because it's funny). I replaced the battery/frame and engine/frame grounds w/ 2AWG wire, scraped away paint on the body for the battery ground, and I had a 1AWG wre running from my old alt to my battery, but it didn't help the lights, and was such a thick terminal end I could only get the nut on the alt. post about one turn, which sucked, so I took that off. That's where my problem lies, isn't it? The alt. can't let enough current through to the battery because of the puny positive wires to the battery. My alt's wires go to the main fuse box, and then go to the battery, so I just add on to the existing wiring, right? Fuse the power wire, so I don't short my battery, and see what happens. So I should definately fix the dimming before moving on to a bigger amp. Would the 3dB's be worth it? Would the subs "hit harder"? Sorry for the long @ss post.

[KU40 173]

You would probably be able to hear a little difference. However, if you don't fix your power problem getting a larger amp won't do anything because it won't be able to suck enough juice from your electrical system to even put out any more power.

[bigrank916 72]

I just replaced my battery and alternator at autozone. I killed them together by listening to the system (quietly) with the car off. Next day, car wouldn't start, so I took the battery to autozone, they charged it, said it was bad, battery light was still on, ran the alt. test and was putting out 12.5v with the car running. Not good. So, I replaced them. I had dimming lights before they were replaced too. I took a DMM to my battery the other day, and had a full 14.4v at idle, system on and loud, dropping to ~13.8-14v, so that was okay, but the lights on and the system going was about 13.5v, should still be okay, but lights dim. My stock alt. Is an 85 amp, pretty weak. It's a Subaru outback (go ahead and laugh, because it's funny). I replaced the battery/frame and engine/frame grounds w/ 2AWG wire, scraped away paint on the body for the battery ground, and I had a 1AWG wre running from my old alt to my battery, but it didn't help the lights, and was such a thick terminal end I could only get the nut on the alt. post about one turn, which sucked, so I took that off. That's where my problem lies, isn't it? The alt. can't let enough current through to the battery because of the puny positive wires to the battery. My alt's wires go to the main fuse box, and then go to the battery, so I just add on to the existing wiring, right? Fuse the power wire, so I don't short my battery, and see what happens. So I should definately fix the dimming before moving on to a bigger amp. Would the 3dB's be worth it? Would the subs "hit harder"? Sorry for the long @ss post.

How would you kill the alt listening to the stereo with the car off? That doesnt make sense. The alt isnt even on.

I would do the big three but do not replace any wires. Only add them and leave the stock ones in place. I would try and run the wire straight from the alt to the batt.

I wouldnt be worried about decibles or hitting harder until you fix your problem.

[jcarter1885 995]

I just replaced my battery and alternator at autozone. I killed them together by listening to the system (quietly) with the car off. Next day, car wouldn't start, so I took the battery to autozone, they charged it, said it was bad, battery light was still on, ran the alt. test and was putting out 12.5v with the car running. Not good. So, I replaced them. I had dimming lights before they were replaced too. I took a DMM to my battery the other day, and had a full 14.4v at idle, system on and loud, dropping to ~13.8-14v, so that was okay, but the lights on and the system going was about 13.5v, should still be okay, but lights dim. My stock alt. Is an 85 amp, pretty weak. It's a Subaru outback (go ahead and laugh, because it's funny). I replaced the battery/frame and engine/frame grounds w/ 2AWG wire, scraped away paint on the body for the battery ground, and I had a 1AWG wre running from my old alt to my battery, but it didn't help the lights, and was such a thick terminal end I could only get the nut on the alt. post about one turn, which sucked, so I took that off. That's where my problem lies, isn't it? The alt. can't let enough current through to the battery because of the puny positive wires to the battery. My alt's wires go to the main fuse box, and then go to the battery, so I just add on to the existing wiring, right? Fuse the power wire, so I don't short my battery, and see what happens. So I should definately fix the dimming before moving on to a bigger amp. Would the 3dB's be worth it? Would the subs "hit harder"? Sorry for the long @ss post.

How would you kill the alt listening to the stereo with the car off? That doesnt make sense. The alt isnt even on.

I would do the big three but do not replace any wires. Only add them and leave the stock ones in place. I would try and run the wire straight from the alt to the batt.

I wouldnt be worried about decibles or hitting harder until you fix your problem.

x2 best advice given, get your priorities straight which is your car working properly before you wont have a car to drive to listen to your system. Its not about having a car with a system but a car that can get you from A to B without any problems.

[Lucky 76 5]

Run one wire from alt to bat and leave the stock alt to fuse box. If you don't do this the check charging system light will most likely come on. This is if you can get the terminal off. If you cant you might want to get a distubution block and split the wire that way. After all more wire is always better =)

[KU40 173]

I just replaced my battery and alternator at autozone. I killed them together by listening to the system (quietly) with the car off. Next day, car wouldn't start, so I took the battery to autozone, they charged it, said it was bad, battery light was still on, ran the alt. test and was putting out 12.5v with the car running. Not good. So, I replaced them. I had dimming lights before they were replaced too. I took a DMM to my battery the other day, and had a full 14.4v at idle, system on and loud, dropping to ~13.8-14v, so that was okay, but the lights on and the system going was about 13.5v, should still be okay, but lights dim. My stock alt. Is an 85 amp, pretty weak. It's a Subaru outback (go ahead and laugh, because it's funny). I replaced the battery/frame and engine/frame grounds w/ 2AWG wire, scraped away paint on the body for the battery ground, and I had a 1AWG wre running from my old alt to my battery, but it didn't help the lights, and was such a thick terminal end I could only get the nut on the alt. post about one turn, which sucked, so I took that off. That's where my problem lies, isn't it? The alt. can't let enough current through to the battery because of the puny positive wires to the battery. My alt's wires go to the main fuse box, and then go to the battery, so I just add on to the existing wiring, right? Fuse the power wire, so I don't short my battery, and see what happens. So I should definately fix the dimming before moving on to a bigger amp. Would the 3dB's be worth it? Would the subs "hit harder"? Sorry for the long @ss post.

How would you kill the alt listening to the stereo with the car off? That doesnt make sense. The alt isnt even on.

I would do the big three but do not replace any wires. Only add them and leave the stock ones in place. I would try and run the wire straight from the alt to the batt.

I wouldnt be worried about decibles or hitting harder until you fix your problem.

Technically the alternator would have to work a bit harder once the car was started to recharge the at-least-somewhat drained battery. However, over time, this would likely wear out the battery faster than the alternator. But still.

[slim2fattycake 85]

If this is done many times over, the alternator will die because of excessive work it needs to do.

[bigrank916 72]

If this is done many times over, the alternator will die because of excessive work it needs to do.

Right. Many, many, many times over. While playing for long periods of time. This person should also reevaluate how they listen to their system as this is major user error.

[Outbacksound 1]

I listened to the stereo a handfull of times with the car off. Most of the time I would drive for 20 min. To a 1/2 hour after doing so to let the battey charge. My car is putting out full power, so it must be a faulty ground (or many) that wouldn't cause a complete circuit, right? I'm definately not getting a new amp right now. This car is a piece, and I have to put the money towards an overheating problem which I have already invested into, but that's another post for another forum. I'm going to have a mechanic friend help me with the overheating, and I'll show him the lights while I'm at it. Are there main grounds other than the two I replaced from the big three, like headlight, brake light, any other grounds that need to be looked at? As far as the alt. dying, I charged the battery out of the car with a trickle charger (for car batteries), and started the car with the battery fully charged. The alt. and battery light came on, so off to auto zone it was. My alt. failed the test immediately (I watched). I thought it was strange too. The car is 13-14 years old though, and I doubt it ever had any love from the two prior owners, so things need replacing. I'd rather get a different car, but it's going to take a lot of saving for that. Though it's starting to seem worth it.

[bigrank916 72]

I listened to the stereo a handfull of times with the car off. Most of the time I would drive for 20 min. To a 1/2 hour after doing so to let the battey charge. My car is putting out full power, so it must be a faulty ground (or many) that wouldn't cause a complete circuit, right? I'm definately not getting a new amp right now. This car is a piece, and I have to put the money towards an overheating problem which I have already invested into, but that's another post for another forum. I'm going to have a mechanic friend help me with the overheating, and I'll show him the lights while I'm at it. Are there main grounds other than the two I replaced from the big three, like headlight, brake light, any other grounds that need to be looked at? As far as the alt. dying, I charged the battery out of the car with a trickle charger (for car batteries), and started the car with the battery fully charged. The alt. and battery light came on, so off to auto zone it was. My alt. failed the test immediately (I watched). I thought it was strange too. The car is 13-14 years old though, and I doubt it ever had any love from the two prior owners, so things need replacing. I'd rather get a different car, but it's going to take a lot of saving for that. Though it's starting to seem worth it.

Thats not going to kill an alternator. Before buying anything else, you sould seriously consider if you are going to buy a new ride. Dont want to waste money on something you dont really like.

[Outbacksound 1]

Well, I need to fix the overheating a) so I can sell it for a decent price and b) so I can have some more time to save money. I do want a new car- this thing isn't me, just a beater to get around, but I'm sick of it. The saving begins now, and I'll do cheap fixes for the electrcal, or just keep it turned down. Thanks for all the advice and helping me realize what's important- my car, not the sound system.