First box build

[waltham415 0]

Hey everyone,

So ive desided to build my first sub box and am pretty much lost. I have 2 10" Alpine type-s subs being powered by a MRP-M500 alpine mono-block. At the moment i have them in a pre-fabbed folded horn box and just want an upgrade. On the Alpine site, they list the"optimum" vented box's stats which are tuned to about 36hz, which sounds good to me.

So.....

Would it work if i built 2 seperate boxes that share a single wall seperating the two? If i did that would I run one vent for each side and keep all the stats for each box to alpine's site?

Ok, this question is confusing me just thinking about it so if it doesnt make any sence, ignore it... my rear deck has three speaker holes, two 5X7 and a 6X9 in between the two. could i build a box where the two speakers would be facing each other, in a v shaped area within the box, with a vent from this area into the 6X9 speaker hole, then there would be an area on each side of this v(where the magnets are) and have those vents( one for each side) ran through the 5X7 openings so that all of the pressure from the subs would be transfered into the cabin? If this makes any sence, would it sound desent? would it be louder but still have the same clearness? basically, would it be worth the effort to build something this complex or would it be just as good to leave all three of those speaker openings open and just let the trunk breath into the cabin?

Wow, ok the main question was that first one, so please answer that one first, the second is simply a dream box that would be fun as hell to build. Any comments appreciated, thanks....

[jcarter1885 995]

So you want to follow Alpine's specs and build one big box but have seperate chambers for them basically so you stick with there exact dimensions? If were on the same page then your right, you can do it with no problem at all.

You can fire the ports through the rear deck if you want to put that time and energy into building a box like that then you can. I dont know if it will be clearer but it would probably add more pressure into the cabin than doing the regular rear or forward firing ports, since I havent tried this before. But leaving the holes open is a good idea also, that helped with the pressure getting into the cabin in my old build and have not had speakers in the rear deck in awhile. So that is up to you, if your not competing and not worried about tenths of a db then i wouldnt go through the extra work. Just my .02

[waltham415 0]

Yeah, pretty much my thoughts also, unless it would make a big difference volume wise, its not worth the extra work and money. i am probably going to stick with the one box/2 chambers design then. Would this setup sound any different then a having both subs in a single chamber?

[bigrank916 72]

Yeah, pretty much my thoughts also, unless it would make a big difference volume wise, its not worth the extra work and money. i am probably going to stick with the one box/2 chambers design then. Would this setup sound any different then a having both subs in a single chamber?

Its just really more work also. You can have a shared chamber and it will work fine.

[jcarter1885 995]

Yeah, pretty much my thoughts also, unless it would make a big difference volume wise, its not worth the extra work and money. i am probably going to stick with the one box/2 chambers design then. Would this setup sound any different then a having both subs in a single chamber?

Its just really more work also. You can have a shared chamber and it will work fine.

x2, I never tried to test the difference if having a seperate chamber for each sub would be better than them sharing the same chamber. One member on here said that he did have better results with doing the shared chambered over the seperate ones. You dont have to follow their designs if you dont want, Im sure someone can help you with design if you give us your max dimensions of space you have to work with.

[bigrank916 72]

Yeah, pretty much my thoughts also, unless it would make a big difference volume wise, its not worth the extra work and money. i am probably going to stick with the one box/2 chambers design then. Would this setup sound any different then a having both subs in a single chamber?

Its just really more work also. You can have a shared chamber and it will work fine.

x2, I never tried to test the difference if having a seperate chamber for each sub would be better than them sharing the same chamber. One member on here said that he did have better results with doing the shared chambered over the seperate ones. You dont have to follow their designs if you dont want, Im sure someone can help you with design if you give us your max dimensions of space you have to work with.

Ive only heard that it adds strength to the box when you are using high powered drivers. Less flex or movement in the box, the better.

Ive had drivers in both and couldnt really tell a difference.

[KU40 173]

Yeah, pretty much my thoughts also, unless it would make a big difference volume wise, its not worth the extra work and money. i am probably going to stick with the one box/2 chambers design then. Would this setup sound any different then a having both subs in a single chamber?

Its just really more work also. You can have a shared chamber and it will work fine.

x2, I never tried to test the difference if having a seperate chamber for each sub would be better than them sharing the same chamber. One member on here said that he did have better results with doing the shared chambered over the seperate ones. You dont have to follow their designs if you dont want, Im sure someone can help you with design if you give us your max dimensions of space you have to work with.

Ive only heard that it adds strength to the box when you are using high powered drivers. Less flex or movement in the box, the better.

Ive had drivers in both and couldnt really tell a difference.

And I don't think you ever will hear a difference between shared and split chamber. But the bracing benefit idea of the split chambered box is valid. Though you can also get just as good of bracing results with other bracing methods in a common chamber. But it's all your decision.

[Don Ganso 13]

I don't think the type S's will be so utterly destructive that you will need to worry about serious bracing. So yeah, x2, it's your choice.

[Don Ganso 13]

Not saying that good bracing isn't important, just that you won't need to get your knickers in a twist over bracing for these subs.

[waltham415 0]

So how about a bandpass box, any opinions there? the only reason im avoiding the single chamber, ported design is that that is what my currant pre-fabbed box is and the demensions for the new one would only be a slight difference and im not sure if a few inches here and there would be a big enough difference to justify the money and work in building a new one.

[KU40 173]

If the tuning frequency is different and more suitable, it definitely is worth the time and effort.

[waltham415 0]

Ok, ill take your word for it, plus i think it would be good experience. so if i listen to alot of rock/metal (anything from linkin park to all that remains) and care more for sound quality than volume, what would you recomend i tune the box to?

[KU40 173]

If those are truly your goals I'd actually edge towards sealed. If you really want ported, perhaps 30-32 hz.

[waltham415 0]

If those are truly your goals I'd actually edge towards sealed. If you really want ported, perhaps 30-32 hz.

Well the sub is only responisve down to 30 Hz, would i want to tune the box down that low?

[bigrank916 72]

If those are truly your goals I'd actually edge towards sealed. If you really want ported, perhaps 30-32 hz.

Well the sub is only responisve down to 30 Hz, would i want to tune the box down that low?

If the frequency range starts at 30, then I dont see why not.

[KU40 173]

If those are truly your goals I'd actually edge towards sealed. If you really want ported, perhaps 30-32 hz.

Well the sub is only responisve down to 30 Hz, would i want to tune the box down that low?

What do you mean only responsive down to 30 hz? I assume the manufacturer just says frequency response 30-400 hz or something like that? That doesn't mean the sub can't play anything below that. Just that the response below that is outside whatever parameter they used to set the range.