Final Decision For Income Tax Build

[PHATBOi 38]

Ok, I have made my final decision for my income tax build.

What I have already:

Stock 80amp alt

Optima Yellow Top under hood

Big 3 in 2 gauge welding cable

1 run of 2/0 power cable to trunk

Stock tweets

POWER ACOUSTIK KP-573N 5x7's front door

POWER ACOUSTIK KP-694N 6x9's rear deck

What I Will Be Getting:

Radio- Kenwood KDC-X493 22w rms per channel, 4v preouts

Sub Amp- MB Quart DSC2000.1D

Sub- HDC312 D2

Batt for trunk- Shuriken SK-BT20

Box- .75 MDF 2.2cuft net slot port tuned to 38Hz (build myself or KOB Customs)

This all will be going in my 2003 Mazda Peotege ES. This is the family car for now (I have 3 kids and only the one car, lol.). Sometime next year, we will be getting a minivan or suv for the family car, then the real build will begin! I will most likely be getting the 12 reconed to a 15 and buying it a brother. I will get a second DSC2K and strap them. I want to do a half wall behind the seat with the box built into the trunk, port forward in the center or on the bottom, and seal it off to the trunk. This way I can keep my back seat if I need to put the kiddys in the car. My amp rack and xtra batts will be built into the trunk behind the box. As of now it is just a dream, baby steps, LOL!

Highs will be running off the deck till I get an amp for them. Most likely a DSC4125. So, what are your thoughts, good or bad?

[thebiggmann12 14]

might need a bigger alternator, but other than that sounds great. keep us updated.

[PHATBOi 38]

might need a bigger alternator, but other than that sounds great. keep us updated.

A little outside of my budget at this time. When I get around to doing the half wall with a second DSC2K and the DSC4125 I am going to remove the A/C and add a HO alt dedicated to the audio system. Will be some XS batts thrown in the mix as well. For now, with the 2K, I am confident the Yellow Top and Shuriken should do fine. I'm not trying to push the amp for all it has and I hear the HDC's have a pretty high imp rise.

PS Thanks for the good words and a digital camera is on the income tax list as well, so plenty of pics and vids for the forthcoming build log.

Edited December 3, 2009 by PHATBOi

[jcarter1885 995]

I dont think that battery will do on that system at all, I would suggest you doing the Mazda right and getting all you need for the big build in the future and start on making that happen. But to each its own, instead of wasteing your money on stuff that will be upgraded soon you minus well just buy everything slowly but surely. Then you can start on putting the build log together slowly instead of half-assing it till you do it how you want in the future.

[PHATBOi 38]

Ok, I have decided I would probably be better off listening to people who know more than me (go figure). So, I did the math and everyone was right (go figure) the 20ah batt just won't cut it. I figure I need atleast 50ah to take up the slack from my alt and Yellow Top. I am looking at the Shuriken SK-BT60. Does this sound about right?

[slim2fattycake 85]

Get a deka 9a31 or NGT extreme if you can find them locally they may be cheaper but the same thing as the deka. I don't think you need a high output alternator but I wouldn't blast it all the time.

[jcarter1885 995]

Yeah that should do for now.

[PHATBOi 38]

Ok, well I have been back and forth about this since the beginning, but I have found the straw to break the camel's back. It might seem unimportant to some but it is the final con for me. Just found out the remote knob on the DSC2000.1D is only a bass boost knob. Sucks. So, I am going to spend my money right the first time and go with the AQ2200D. This is the route I wanted to follow from the start, but the cheap skate in me tried to do some penny pinching. I have found through past experiences that car audio equipment is like prostitues, you get what you pay for. I don't want to make the same mistakes again.

[PHATBOi 38]

Ok, well I have been back and forth about this since the beginning, but I have found the straw to break the camel's back. It might seem unimportant to some but it is the final con for me. Just found out the remote knob on the DSC2000.1D is only a bass boost knob. Sucks. So, I am going to spend my money right the first time and go with the AQ2200D. This is the route I wanted to follow from the start, but the cheap skate in me tried to do some penny pinching. I have found through past experiences that car audio equipment is like prostitues, you get what you pay for. I don't want to make the same mistakes again.

Yes I am quoting myself, LOL. Disregard this ^^^^^^^^^^^, I was confused. I will be sticking with the DSC2000.1D. If anything just to be running an underdog, LOL. But seriously, there are just to many similarities between the two to justify spending an xtra 100 for the AQ. Just MHO.

[bigrank916 72]

Ok, well I have been back and forth about this since the beginning, but I have found the straw to break the camel's back. It might seem unimportant to some but it is the final con for me. Just found out the remote knob on the DSC2000.1D is only a bass boost knob. Sucks. So, I am going to spend my money right the first time and go with the AQ2200D. This is the route I wanted to follow from the start, but the cheap skate in me tried to do some penny pinching. I have found through past experiences that car audio equipment is like prostitues, you get what you pay for. I don't want to make the same mistakes again.

Yes I am quoting myself, LOL. Disregard this ^^^^^^^^^^^, I was confused. I will be sticking with the DSC2000.1D. If anything just to be running an underdog, LOL. But seriously, there are just to many similarities between the two to justify spending an xtra 100 for the AQ. Just MHO.

I wouldnt buy another maxxsonics product after my crunch 1500.1. It had terrible sound quality. I have a BXI2006 now and cant wait to see the difference with the SAE1200D. Its not as bad as the 1500.1 sound quality wise.

If it were me I would buy the AQ2200D instead. How much would you be buying the DSC200.1D for anyway? It looks like the AQ is only $50 more.

[PHATBOi 38]

I have never doubted the quality of the AQ2200D, I know AQ puts out quality subs and amps. My only question has been is the DSC2000.1D even in the same league as the AQ, and it was answered today. I got my first up close encouter with the DSC2K today in gmonk's Avalanche. He has a single DSC2K pushing two fully loaded Fi BTL 18's at only two ohms and this amp is hands down a beast! It was poundin those BTL's with only 500 watts a piece. The AQ is a quality product at a very good price, but for me with goin to college full time, three kids, and a house payment, it is all about the bargain. And the DSC2K is just to good of a bargain to pass up.

On a side note, I got my first close encounter with the HDC312s today also. lambofgood91 (on floridaspl.com) played his 2 HDC312s runnin off a SAZ3500D in a Ford Focus for me and it hurt just to sit inside of his car. I was very impressed with the quality of sound they produced also. Very clean and tight. I am excited to say the least. I think the DSC2000.1D and the HDC312 D2 are going to be very good friends, LOL!

[PHATBOi 38]

Just an update, sent Mike Stiers an email:

Mike,

Hi, I would like to take a moment of your time to ask some questions about the MB Quart DSC2000.1D. First off, is it a Zenon board? This is a hot topic of dispute on many forums. Next, does the bass boost on the DSC boost the signal prior to amplification, like a line driver, or after on the output, like a regular bass boost? I have been told by a dealer of yours it was the prior, just wanted to get it from the horses mouth. Last but not least, what kind of fail rate do you have with this amp? Do you have to repair alot of them? Any answers you may provide in this matter will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

This is his response:

Hello,

This is NOT a Zenon board. We will NEVER do business with Zenon as they are bad for the industry. We employ our own Engineers are work with several build houses throughout China and Korea, but Zenon is not one of them. Many competing manufacturers have taken our amplifiers and had them duplicated at other Chinese and Korean vendors as is evident by the numerous similar designs you see in pics on the forums. The Bass Boost on the amplifier end panel is a degree of boost at a fixed 45Hz tone that is boosted during amplification. The Remote Control is a LEVEL boost identical to the Level on the amplifier end panel. These amplifiers have a very low failure rate if used as the manufacturer suggests.

Regards,

Mike Stiers

Maxxsonics USA

Product Development Specialist

[jcarter1885 995]

What was the purpose of sharing the email between you guys. If the failure rate he claims is true who would say oh yeah we have great products with a high failure rate, just saying this doesnt prove anything. If you want to get the amp then get it and give us a review on it and hopefully you will be on here a year or two later after the install to show us that it is still working properly and we can move on past this issue. If your confident about the amp and it fits your budget then dont let anybody tell you how to spend your money. To some of us we would rather spend money on a product where we can deal with the owner if something goes wrong (regardless if it is user, builder or shippers fault) and it wont take forever for them to fix it and get it back to ya.

[PHATBOi 38]

What was the purpose of sharing the email between you guys. If the failure rate he claims is true who would say oh yeah we have great products with a high failure rate, just saying this doesnt prove anything. If you want to get the amp then get it and give us a review on it and hopefully you will be on here a year or two later after the install to show us that it is still working properly and we can move on past this issue. If your confident about the amp and it fits your budget then dont let anybody tell you how to spend your money. To some of us we would rather spend money on a product where we can deal with the owner if something goes wrong (regardless if it is user, builder or shippers fault) and it wont take forever for them to fix it and get it back to ya.

Point taken and subject closed.