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i have a 12 arriveing soon and time to build its home over the weekend,sure would love to see a graph-or just 1.25^ sealed like squeaky sais?

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well as squeak said erlier, the bigger the box, the better, however, if you make the box TOO big, its gonna sound "dry, or lifeless". i just want to know what the largest size you can go without that happening,

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yea!! and do a ported one too to compare!

i got that graph from the man himself, mike.

after he gets some chit straightened out hes gonna redo the SS site with all the graphs for the RL-p's just like he did for the RL-i's. so just be patient :hyper:

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3cuft might be pushing it, I could see the sub getting a lot more sloppier.

Technically a smaller box would be "sloppier". The larger you go, the more overdamped it becomes (lower Qtc), which tightens up transient response and such. Go too large and you can get what's called "critically overdamped"....which most people wouldn't enjoy the sound of as it would be "dry" and "lifeless"....

But...one thing I've noticed is that the Rl-p drivers don't model well in most programs/calculations (atleast the 12's)....you may be better off sticking with SS's recommended range.

Interestng Ive always associated a box thats to large as sloppy or muddy. Smaller being tighter more accurate response.

Smaller boxes will be perceived as "tighter" because of they have a nice hump in the frequency response in the upper bass/lower midbass. This will give the sound a "punchy" or "tight" sound to the bass.....but it's because of the increased output in that frequency range, and NOT because of actual increased "tightness".

So if the transient response gets tightened as the box size increses why does the bass become muddier or sloppy as I call it.

It doesn't become muddier or sloppier; what happens is the low frequency output is increased (better low frequency extension) and upper bass output is decreased, so with a larger box you are hearing more TRUE bass (which is slow and "muddy" by nature), rather than enhanced and exaggerated midbass.

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I love low bass... mmmmm

I love lamp...and sealed enclosures.

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I love low bass... mmmmm

I love lamp...and sealed enclosures.

well, I've only had a small sealed enclosure and a huge ported one so far in my car, and the latter was my favorite. It was a 2 12" tuned to 28 with a lot of port area and 2.5ft^3 net for each 12.

with my old Infinities it had rediculous low end output...

I can't wait to re install it now that I'll have my midbass covered much better...

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all this talk about sealed, makes me want to ditch my 2.0 cube 27hz box and go 3 cube sealed

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all this talk about sealed, makes me want to ditch my 2.0 cube 27hz box and go 3 cube sealed

I'll be going 2 for the mag :D

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all this talk about sealed, makes me want to ditch my 2.0 cube 27hz box and go 3 cube sealed

Maybe you should...... :fing34:

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all this talk about sealed, makes me want to ditch my 2.0 cube 27hz box and go 3 cube sealed

Maybe you should...... :fing34:

to still have access to the spare (which is always a need when running 40 series rubber) and run 3 cubes, I would need some very nice fiberglass work done to the forward space of my trunk, I need to figure out the placement of the amplifers and how I am going to cover the 2nd battery

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It doesn't become muddier or sloppier; what happens is the low frequency output is increased (better low frequency extension) and upper bass output is decreased, so with a larger box you are hearing more TRUE bass (which is slow and "muddy" by nature), rather than enhanced and exaggerated midbass.

so can i put my rl-p 12 in a bigger than 1.25^ sealed box with no negative consequences? given that i want a subwoofer only no burps or competeing @ 100hz?,it will be x'd over at bout 80hz

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so can i put my rl-p 12 in a

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interesting squeak... so the specs on the site are just guidelines set for the optimal performance?

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can someone post the same graph moddeling the rl-p 12 please

Definitely go with the 1.25 cu ft net sealed measure.

The leap graphs would show optimal enclosures of a smaller size just above 0.5

cu ft, but my ear tells me that you'll want to go with the larger size for sure!

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3cuft might be pushing it, I could see the sub getting a lot more sloppier.

Technically a smaller box would be "sloppier". The larger you go, the more overdamped it becomes (lower Qtc), which tightens up transient response and such. Go too large and you can get what's called "critically overdamped"....which most people wouldn't enjoy the sound of as it would be "dry" and "lifeless"....

But...one thing I've noticed is that the Rl-p drivers don't model well in most programs/calculations (atleast the 12's)....you may be better off sticking with SS's recommended range.

Interestng Ive always associated a box thats to large as sloppy or muddy. Smaller being tighter more accurate response.

Smaller boxes will be perceived as "tighter" because of they have a nice hump in the frequency response in the upper bass/lower midbass. This will give the sound a "punchy" or "tight" sound to the bass.....but it's because of the increased output in that frequency range, and NOT because of actual increased "tightness".

So if the transient response gets tightened as the box size increses why does the bass become muddier or sloppy as I call it.

It doesn't become muddier or sloppier; what happens is the low frequency output is increased (better low frequency extension) and upper bass output is decreased, so with a larger box you are hearing more TRUE bass (which is slow and "muddy" by nature), rather than enhanced and exaggerated midbass.

Gotcha, makes sense thanks man!

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