Confused about caps and bats

[superman_69 0]

Okay fellas. I need some help with this one cause i'm finally at the point i have no clue what to do. I have an 03 Ford Taurus. Im running two RE SX 12D2's on two Lunar L1500's and Rockford Fosgate Power 4004. (If you wanna see my amps heres the link: http://www.lunaramplifiers.com/product_3_2.html) Ive heard all about the big 3 upgrade and i wanted to do it. But, the damn power wire runs through the front fuse box as well as the alternator wire. Making it virtually impossible to do it unless someone can help me with that. Seeing as how i was faced with that dilema, my problem arises. I've read and researched bats and caps and my original setup had a 800 Kinetik in the trunk. But for some reason, it doesnt last. even after being recharged. Since i cant do the big 3 upgrade, would it be better just to run a 2 farad cap instead and not put the additional load on the alt? Contious play with that extra bat had major bass drop. The alt has been replace with a fresh stock on and i plan on getting an iraggi 220. Need some help friends....

[shizzzon 461]

caps n batts are not choices.

a cap is not to be used in substitute of a battery when a battery is required.

Anyways, let's look at your last setup so you can get on the right track.

You had stock battery up front, HC800 in the rear, stock alt.

what amps were you using at the time?

Also, what is your stock alt rated at and what car do you drive?

[superman_69 0]

caps n batts are not choices.

a cap is not to be used in substitute of a battery when a battery is required.

Anyways, let's look at your last setup so you can get on the right track.

You had stock battery up front, HC800 in the rear, stock alt.

what amps were you using at the time?

Also, what is your stock alt rated at and what car do you drive?

The car was a daily driver/ comp. I competed just for fun and to meet new people. Battery up front isnt stock. Its a Deka Intimidator. Bought it today fresh. B4 the deka was a optima yellow top. Alt is 120 amps. Still using the Lunar's...

Edited November 14, 2009 by Superman_69

[jcarter1885 995]

Okay fellas. I need some help with this one cause i'm finally at the point i have no clue what to do. I have an 03 Ford Taurus. Im running two RE SX 12D2's on two Lunar L1500's and Rockford Fosgate Power 4004. (If you wanna see my amps heres the link: http://www.lunaramplifiers.com/product_3_2.html) Ive heard all about the big 3 upgrade and i wanted to do it. But, the damn power wire runs through the front fuse box as well as the alternator wire. Making it virtually impossible to do it unless someone can help me with that. Seeing as how i was faced with that dilema, my problem arises. I've read and researched bats and caps and my original setup had a 800 Kinetik in the trunk. But for some reason, it doesnt last. even after being recharged. Since i cant do the big 3 upgrade, would it be better just to run a 2 farad cap instead and not put the additional load on the alt? Contious play with that extra bat had major bass drop. The alt has been replace with a fresh stock on and i plan on getting an iraggi 220. Need some help friends....

Even though the Big may be hard to do (the positive wire from battery to alternator isnt completely neccessary if you dont upgrade your alternator and you already have a nice size wire on there such as 4 gauge). I only replace my ground wire out the big 3 (battery negative to cars frame and alternator negative/engine block to cars frame) and it gave me steady voltage and higher car turn on voltage. A cap wont help you since you are having voltage or not enough power issues in my eyes.

[shizzzon 461]

ahh.. it's coming together now...

so optima up front, hc800 in the rear, 120A alt and 3 amps...

I'm gonna go out on a limb and "suspect" that the optima and kinetik were fighting with each other over time with them not being isolated in anyway possible.

Doesn't Optima's battery technology differ from Kinetik? I believe it does but can't remember for sure.

Anyways, you don't want that for one. At the least, a solenoid(high amp relay) will "isolate" your front from your rear batt(s) when the car is off.

2nd, it's possible that longterm play with the stock alt prevented the batts from being charged back up properly but i am leaning towards this possibly not being the problem and more towards the first one over a long term period. I believe if you had insufficient charging capability that it would have been a problem just after a couple weeks of crankin it all the time.

For such a setup, i would suggest you keep the deka up front, i'm assuming it's a 9A31? that's 100aH.

And get another 9A31 in the rear with a high output alt.

that should do you in perfectly.

[superman_69 0]

Okay fellas. I need some help with this one cause i'm finally at the point i have no clue what to do. I have an 03 Ford Taurus. Im running two RE SX 12D2's on two Lunar L1500's and Rockford Fosgate Power 4004. (If you wanna see my amps heres the link: http://www.lunaramplifiers.com/product_3_2.html) Ive heard all about the big 3 upgrade and i wanted to do it. But, the damn power wire runs through the front fuse box as well as the alternator wire. Making it virtually impossible to do it unless someone can help me with that. Seeing as how i was faced with that dilema, my problem arises. I've read and researched bats and caps and my original setup had a 800 Kinetik in the trunk. But for some reason, it doesnt last. even after being recharged. Since i cant do the big 3 upgrade, would it be better just to run a 2 farad cap instead and not put the additional load on the alt? Contious play with that extra bat had major bass drop. The alt has been replace with a fresh stock on and i plan on getting an iraggi 220. Need some help friends....

Even though the Big may be hard to do (the positive wire from battery to alternator isnt completely neccessary if you dont upgrade your alternator and you already have a nice size wire on there such as 4 gauge). I only replace my ground wire out the big 3 (battery negative to cars frame and alternator negative/engine block to cars frame) and it gave me steady voltage and higher car turn on voltage. A cap wont help you since you are having voltage or not enough power issues in my eyes.

So what do i do when i get the Iraggi 220 alt?

[superman_69 0]

ahh.. it's coming together now...

so optima up front, hc800 in the rear, 120A alt and 3 amps...

I'm gonna go out on a limb and "suspect" that the optima and kinetik were fighting with each other over time with them not being isolated in anyway possible.

Doesn't Optima's battery technology differ from Kinetik? I believe it does but can't remember for sure.

Anyways, you don't want that for one. At the least, a solenoid(high amp relay) will "isolate" your front from your rear batt(s) when the car is off.

2nd, it's possible that longterm play with the stock alt prevented the batts from being charged back up properly but i am leaning towards this possibly not being the problem and more towards the first one over a long term period. I believe if you had insufficient charging capability that it would have been a problem just after a couple weeks of crankin it all the time.

For such a setup, i would suggest you keep the deka up front, i'm assuming it's a 9A31? that's 100aH.

And get another 9A31 in the rear with a high output alt.

that should do you in perfectly.

where would i purchase this relay?

[jcarter1885 995]

So when you get the Alternator I suggest that you upgrade that power wire from battery positive post to alternator positive post. I wouldnt get a relay or isolator unless you play your music with car off a lot. Was there a difference in things with the addition of a new battery today or still the same?

[shizzzon 461]

From a very good company-

http://www.oznium.com/relay200

Pay no attention to how others wired it up, it needs to be turned on via ignition wire, not remote turn on wire on stereo.

You can "technically" power it off remote turn on stereo wire but if u do, it's safer to buy a smaller 5pinned relay so this massive relay doesn't try to pull too much power out of the stereo's turn on lead plus you gotta turn the stereo on just to keep the rear batt charged if it's in a slight discharge state so... it's better if you use ignition wire.

[shizzzon 461]

solenoids and isolators are different.

Also, like Jay-cee said, you wouldnt need one if your front and rear battery is the same.

If they are different, it's suggested as different battery technologies, makes and age can make batts drain off each other til one dies. This is a longterm process but once a cell is damaged, it's all bad from there.

If u get another deka in the back, u can skip the need for a solenoid.

[superman_69 0]

From a very good company-

http://www.oznium.com/relay200

Pay no attention to how others wired it up, it needs to be turned on via ignition wire, not remote turn on wire on stereo.

You can "technically" power it off remote turn on stereo wire but if u do, it's safer to buy a smaller 5pinned relay so this massive relay doesn't try to pull too much power out of the stereo's turn on lead plus you gotta turn the stereo on just to keep the rear batt charged if it's in a slight discharge state so... it's better if you use ignition wire.

i havent done the installation in this car. It was all professionally done...why didnt they put one to begin with? and why are the same people telling to put a cap now?

[shizzzon 461]

because you are bound by the typical retailer crap that has been passed down from hear-say for years

[shizzzon 461]

read what i posted earlier too, if u get another deka, don't get the solenoid as it wouldnt be necessary.

[jcarter1885 995]

From a very good company-

http://www.oznium.com/relay200

Pay no attention to how others wired it up, it needs to be turned on via ignition wire, not remote turn on wire on stereo.

You can "technically" power it off remote turn on stereo wire but if u do, it's safer to buy a smaller 5pinned relay so this massive relay doesn't try to pull too much power out of the stereo's turn on lead plus you gotta turn the stereo on just to keep the rear batt charged if it's in a slight discharge state so... it's better if you use ignition wire.

i havent done the installation in this car. It was all professionally done...why didnt they put one to begin with? and why are the same people telling to put a cap now?

3 Reasons why:

1. To get your money and sell you a product they have instead of what you will need or to get you in to spend more money fixing a problem they started.

2. They dont know what they are doing (by far professionals just work for a local car audio shop, thats all).

3. The first two reasons.

[superman_69 0]

LMAO!! Ive heard that too jay-cee!! and thanx Shizzon....I'll Purchase another deka tommorow....

[superman_69 0]

thats so messed up they would sell that crap to people and u dont need it...

[jcarter1885 995]

LMAO!! Ive heard that too jay-cee!! and thanx Shizzon....I'll Purchase another deka tommorow....

What model number Deka's are you getting, hopefully it is the 9A31?

[superman_69 0]

So when you get the Alternator I suggest that you upgrade that power wire from battery positive post to alternator positive post. I wouldnt get a relay or isolator unless you play your music with car off a lot. Was there a difference in things with the addition of a new battery today or still the same?

That wire is hard wired to the fuse box....unless you can tell me how to get around it. And i haven't played the system yet. I took the kinetik out today to get it tested and with the lose power wires in the back. i was a lil afraid to run it...

[jcarter1885 995]

thats so messed up they would sell that crap to people and u dont need it...

Yeah it is because 9 times out of 10, most people who do go to local car audio shops will pay anything they tell them to put a system in there car and dont know an ounce of car audio to say what they did is wrong or not required (not all are like this but most, there are some good shops out there).

[superman_69 0]

LMAO!! Ive heard that too jay-cee!! and thanx Shizzon....I'll Purchase another deka tommorow....

What model number Deka's are you getting, hopefully it is the 9A31?

the one i have now is a 9A78DT...know anything?

[jcarter1885 995]

LMAO!! Ive heard that too jay-cee!! and thanx Shizzon....I'll Purchase another deka tommorow....

What model number Deka's are you getting, hopefully it is the 9A31?

the one i have now is a 9A78DT...know anything?

To make sure you have enough juice get the 9A31 for you secondary battery and you will be good to go.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Even two identical batts run the possibility of one discharging the other, but Shizzon is correct. That is the ideal situation when running multiple batteries. IT's best to get them from the same build as well that way, they're built identically and of the same age.

It is best to have some sort of isolation between them, but then it adds cost, complexity, another possible problem, and a likely potential for voltage drop.

The solenoid is nothing but a large relay that is switched. The isolator is nothing more than diodes that only allow current to flow one direction.

[superman_69 0]

LMAO!! Ive heard that too jay-cee!! and thanx Shizzon....I'll Purchase another deka tommorow....

What model number Deka's are you getting, hopefully it is the 9A31?

the one i have now is a 9A78DT...know anything?

To make sure you have enough juice get the 9A31 for you secondary battery and you will be good to go.

will do....I wonder if theres a price difference? I paid 152 here for the one under the hood....

[shizzzon 461]

9A31, go to www.remybattery.com

If you ever need to buy them in bulk, let me know, i know a guy that has good hookups on them.

[superman_69 0]

9A31, go to www.remybattery.com

If you ever need to buy them in bulk, let me know, i know a guy that has good hookups on them.

is it a screw post like the kinetik? and remy says they are out of stock...

Edited November 14, 2009 by Superman_69