Fi Q Minimum RMS?

[NDMstang65 403]

I would bet money that not one person that has replied and downplayed my amp has even owned one....that shows alot about your opinions.

This is what you guys do. Join the crowd and attack the guy with the REAL experience instead of the guys who talk shit and know nothing. It's you that will miss out.

As far as efficiency, lets see some pictures of your claims of my amp being 40% efficient. Lets see your meter reading an 8002SW at being 40% efficient. Didn't think so. Just another thing you read on the internet.

I've had the amps..I do not have them any more because I sold the LP's that I had...because I found a sucker to pay the big price tag for them

They're a class A/B amp...the most of which in modern circuits are at best 70% efficient...and that is the most efficient ones of today. Not to mention the s/n ratio of 85dB is far below par for the course of today's A/B amps.

I'm talking about efficiency as how much power you are putting into the amp...and how much you are getting out...and those amps are DEFINITELY not known for that. Get a DC clamp meter...see how much current the amplifier is drawing on a 60Hz sine wave. Then measure the voltage and current out of the outputs. Do the math and you will get something that is less than 70% of what you get out of the amp from what you put into it. If I remember correctly they also used to require a fuse that is a 'slow blow' 60 amp fuse...which i've drawn in excess of 500 amps across before...

Give Richard a call...as far as I remember nobody has beat his amplifier challenge...and that has been going on for more than 10 years...

Again, I am not saying that the amplifier isn't solid..because it is. But it is by no means the end all be all...otherwise everybody would still be making the amplifiers the same way..and there would be no other amplifiers in existence

PS..you might want to read this...this is coming from other people who have previously owned the amplifiers

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117121&page=68

[gotsqtoo? 23]

I would bet money that not one person that has replied and downplayed my amp has even owned one....that shows alot about your opinions.

This is what you guys do. Join the crowd and attack the guy with the REAL experience instead of the guys who talk shit and know nothing. It's you that will miss out.

As far as efficiency, lets see some pictures of your claims of my amp being 40% efficient. Lets see your meter reading an 8002SW at being 40% efficient. Didn't think so. Just another thing you read on the internet.

your doing a good job of making everyone not want to help you at all.

people on the forum kid around and if you cant take it then stop posting.

your just making it worse by arguing with everyone.

if you've been into car audio for 20 years how do you have no idea that under powering a sub is perfectly fine?

Asking if it was ok to underpower the sub wasn't the question douchebag!! Way to twist my words around. Some subs don't come alive until a certain power point and that is what I wanted to know. I have heard decent things about the Fi Q and was wondering what the deal was with them. To tell you the truth, I heard their customer service is horrible, and now to see their forum members are a bunch of class d rocking douchebags....I think I will go with the incriminator audio Flatlynes. I have heard none of Fi subs can even compare and the price difference is minimal.

[///M5 2,833]

ROFL, enjoy the kool-aid

*and the same people will be in the IA forum btw*

[forsellb 1]

You are quite pompous.

If you really knew what you were talking about you wouldn't be asking this question, because you'd already know that there is no minimum. A speaker will continue to have more excursion and more output in a very linear and predictable way with added power. More power = more of those two things. So unless you want to quantify a minimum excursion level in a given box, we can't tell you how much power it will take to get where you want it to be.

I'll give you a hypothetical.

10 watts = 1 mm excursion

50 watts = 5 mm excursion

100 watts = 10 mm excursion

200 watts = 15 mm excursion

500 watts = 20 mm excursion

1000 watts = 28 mm excursion.

So where along that chart would you qualify the sub as being "underpowered?" The numbers are made up but the situation is real.

Not to sound retarded on this already horribly derailed topic but is there a real mathematical equation for figuring excursion from watts? Also I thought anything lower than 75w would mess up a sub? like the amplifier would start sending a DC signal because the lack of power draw and you guys know better than I do that DC messes up subs faster than AC.. But yea equation?

[jcarter1885 995]

I would bet money that not one person that has replied and downplayed my amp has even owned one....that shows alot about your opinions.

This is what you guys do. Join the crowd and attack the guy with the REAL experience instead of the guys who talk shit and know nothing. It's you that will miss out.

As far as efficiency, lets see some pictures of your claims of my amp being 40% efficient. Lets see your meter reading an 8002SW at being 40% efficient. Didn't think so. Just another thing you read on the internet.

your doing a good job of making everyone not want to help you at all.

people on the forum kid around and if you cant take it then stop posting.

your just making it worse by arguing with everyone.

if you've been into car audio for 20 years how do you have no idea that under powering a sub is perfectly fine?

Asking if it was ok to underpower the sub wasn't the question douchebag!! Way to twist my words around. Some subs don't come alive until a certain power point and that is what I wanted to know. I have heard decent things about the Fi Q and was wondering what the deal was with them. To tell you the truth, I heard their customer service is horrible, and now to see their forum members are a bunch of class d rocking douchebags....I think I will go with the incriminator audio Flatlynes. I have heard none of Fi subs can even compare and the price difference is minimal.

Buddy please stop displaying your emotions on the screen, this is not a PMS Forum for monthly feminine poblems.

[shizzzon 461]

just like SPL competition... Go get you an RTA meter or get some pc software with some existing hardware you have lying around and meter your car's response with whatever type of RTA software\hardware you use and display your results.

Opinions don't mean anything when everyone is arguing about the facts... So post facts because everything else is speculation.

[brynm 0]

There is much fail in this one

[KU40 173]

You are quite pompous.

If you really knew what you were talking about you wouldn't be asking this question, because you'd already know that there is no minimum. A speaker will continue to have more excursion and more output in a very linear and predictable way with added power. More power = more of those two things. So unless you want to quantify a minimum excursion level in a given box, we can't tell you how much power it will take to get where you want it to be.

I'll give you a hypothetical.

10 watts = 1 mm excursion

50 watts = 5 mm excursion

100 watts = 10 mm excursion

200 watts = 15 mm excursion

500 watts = 20 mm excursion

1000 watts = 28 mm excursion.

So where along that chart would you qualify the sub as being "underpowered?" The numbers are made up but the situation is real.

Not to sound retarded on this already horribly derailed topic but is there a real mathematical equation for figuring excursion from watts? Also I thought anything lower than 75w would mess up a sub? like the amplifier would start sending a DC signal because the lack of power draw and you guys know better than I do that DC messes up subs faster than AC.. But yea equation?

There is. But it doesn't only have to do with power. Box size, tuning frequency, frequency of the note played, etc., all come into play when figuring out excursion with a given power input. Download a frequency response program that has an excursion plot and you'll get it. winISD is the one I'm familiar with. But I don't know the formula.

As for less than 75 watts, that's just, well, absurd. What about subs that are only rated for 50 watts RMS? But I'll answer your question with a question- How many watts do you think your amplifier is putting out when your head unit is on volume 1 and you can barely hear the sub if at all? Is the sub getting messed up then?

As for thread jacking, I'm not sorry. This was ridiculous in the first place.

[iputon326 9]

I would bet money that not one person that has replied and downplayed my amp has even owned one....that shows alot about your opinions.

This is what you guys do. Join the crowd and attack the guy with the REAL experience instead of the guys who talk shit and know nothing. It's you that will miss out.

As far as efficiency, lets see some pictures of your claims of my amp being 40% efficient. Lets see your meter reading an 8002SW at being 40% efficient. Didn't think so. Just another thing you read on the internet.

your doing a good job of making everyone not want to help you at all.

people on the forum kid around and if you cant take it then stop posting.

your just making it worse by arguing with everyone.

if you've been into car audio for 20 years how do you have no idea that under powering a sub is perfectly fine?

Asking if it was ok to underpower the sub wasn't the question douchebag!! Way to twist my words around. Some subs don't come alive until a certain power point and that is what I wanted to know. I have heard decent things about the Fi Q and was wondering what the deal was with them. To tell you the truth, I heard their customer service is horrible, and now to see their forum members are a bunch of class d rocking douchebags....I think I will go with the incriminator audio Flatlynes. I have heard none of Fi subs can even compare and the price difference is minimal.

well im glad you know how this forum works as well. the people answering all your questions are not just from an FI forum.

if you asked the same question about the flatlynes in the incriminator section the same people would be answering your qestions.

Edited October 4, 2009 by iputon326

[forsellb 1]

You are quite pompous.

If you really knew what you were talking about you wouldn't be asking this question, because you'd already know that there is no minimum. A speaker will continue to have more excursion and more output in a very linear and predictable way with added power. More power = more of those two things. So unless you want to quantify a minimum excursion level in a given box, we can't tell you how much power it will take to get where you want it to be.

I'll give you a hypothetical.

10 watts = 1 mm excursion

50 watts = 5 mm excursion

100 watts = 10 mm excursion

200 watts = 15 mm excursion

500 watts = 20 mm excursion

1000 watts = 28 mm excursion.

So where along that chart would you qualify the sub as being "underpowered?" The numbers are made up but the situation is real.

Not to sound retarded on this already horribly derailed topic but is there a real mathematical equation for figuring excursion from watts? Also I thought anything lower than 75w would mess up a sub? like the amplifier would start sending a DC signal because the lack of power draw and you guys know better than I do that DC messes up subs faster than AC.. But yea equation?

There is. But it doesn't only have to do with power. Box size, tuning frequency, frequency of the note played, etc., all come into play when figuring out excursion with a given power input. Download a frequency response program that has an excursion plot and you'll get it. winISD is the one I'm familiar with. But I don't know the formula.

As for less than 75 watts, that's just, well, absurd. What about subs that are only rated for 50 watts RMS? But I'll answer your question with a question- How many watts do you think your amplifier is putting out when your head unit is on volume 1 and you can barely hear the sub if at all? Is the sub getting messed up then?

As for thread jacking, I'm not sorry. This was ridiculous in the first place.

Ah touche good sir, and I never thought about a sub rated for like 50watts.. would that even be considered a sub?

[slim2fattycake 85]

why would it not? because higher than 50 watts power rating makes a woofer, a subwoofer?

[djazmatic 0]

I bet this guy must be annoying as hell when met in person. Crying because no one agrees that his amp is the king of all amps.

Who the f**k cares if your amp is great or not man. If you love it so much...fine, so be it. Why do you need everyone else to agree with you just to feel better?

You aren't even debating with everyone at this point..your just throwing a e-fit.

Sorry to bump an old thread... just started reading and had to comment.