DEH-P600UB/BXi1208D/Infinity 475a/ABC600V/3-PPI PCX102's

[porkchop 304]

apache junction, sorta close to mesa if i remember correctly.....

i feel you on not liking your ride.......i am there now, but my broke ass will have to make the most out of it. ha

[ppiflat10s 3]

not sure why, but this morning I was thinking about it and started wondering if the j could be junction, then remembered Id heard the name "apache junction" before, but couldnt even remember if it was in AZ....

its not so bad. its been passed along about 6 members of the family, cant really complain about a free car. when I got it, it started by flipping a switch under the dash, turning the key to start to kill the stereo/fan/etc to give the starter all the power, but then also press a button under the dash to get the starter cranking. sometimes it wouldnt leave park so you had to have a second key to bypass the shifter lock. I took the ignition switch apart and cleaned/sanded all the contacts, and got it back starting with the key, I have it always leaving park just from pressing the brake like normal also.

it used to die the instant you shifted to reverse unless you gave it some gas, and if you came to a stop in drive with the AC on it would die. I have also fixed both those situations, but you still cant have the air on while in reverse or it dies when you stop if it didnt already die as you shifted it into reverse. I still have a few things to do which should solve the idling problem (accords egr ports in the intake manifold get clogged, ive seen completely closed ports at 115k, I got 283k, so mine are probably blocked off completely)

and the auto tranny is probably on its way out so Im going to swap it to a manual, because I hate automatics anyways unless im driving a suv/truck, or a true luxury car.

after all that I may like it... also need to have the rotors turned and get new tires. lol.. just a few little things

[porkchop 304]

dang, lol, mine is just basically ugly.......you are right though , free is a good start.

[Notorious97200 339]

You had the car for free, so, nothing to say about it !!!

Man, your box is beautiful, I hope it sounds as good as it looks!!!

Keep on working, we're watching !!!

[ppiflat10s 3]

I cant remember if it started out new in the family or not. Im pretty sure my aunts mom bought it when it was only a few years old though. but it has been through ALOT since then!

no UPS driver today(so far), which is good, keeps me away from the car and focused on homework (anybody deciding to stay in school after high school or not, DO IT!, I waited 6 years before I went back and damn it would be nice to be out of college 2 years ago!)

I am going to get off the computer sometime and go get some fiberglass screen and resin though.

[lithium 358]

@ deadening with a low budget.. here is my idea, im no expert on this stuff tho- READ THIS FIRST!! (link)

after seeing some of the problems with edead i wouldn't recommend it. but as far as process goes i would:

1) hit the outer skin with about 25% coverage with some CLD tiles (aka spl tiles from SS or the product from Sound deadener showdown, i wont get into politics here so it up to you to pick a product).

I have looked around on that site, and was going to get 2 or 3 cld tiles per door but they didnt have larger sheets for the inner door skin, so I figured Id get everything in one place. are those tiles as moldable as regular damplifier/dynamat/fatmat/etc is? if so I could use it for the inner skin as well.

2) seal the access holes... lots of ways to do this. you could use some metal mesh and a cheap deadening mat, i've seen it done with plastic which was heated to the shape of the hole, fiberglass, sheet metal... etc

I had planned on just covering the entire inner door skin with deadener. it would stick to the areas that were already metal, and would seal the open areas.

3) CDL tiles on inner door skin, 25 percent coverage.

if I sealed the door with metal mesh and cheap deadener like suggested above, still use some CLD tiles on the inner skin?

4) find some closed cell foam at a local store to use to decouple the door card from the door metal. putting the foam in between stops vibrations from transferring in to the door card and making more noise.

what kind of store would I go to for this. dont remember seeing anything in HD or lowes when Im in there, but that doesnt mean its not in there somewhere. a huge new craft store (hobby lobby) just opened here and I am gonna check them out and see if they got anything I could use in there.

5) if you can find a cheap source for mlv (mass loading vinyl, or anything that weights 1 pound per sq foot and isn't too thick or too ridged) get some. this would go between the door card and closed cell foam. this acts as a barrier, which prevents rattles and road noise from door from getting into the cabin. ---- very important step if you serious about this stuff.

Ill probably skip this one, especially at first seeing as how even without this stuff, the rest of it is gonna cost more than the speakers did!

ok based on what you've said id recommend you start with picking a cheap deadening product to cover the access holes (and the outer skin of the door), skip the tiles unless the company you choose sells them. id vote for raammat if you can afford a roll? maybe split a roll with a friend. (if you get a full roll you could do the doors and trunk, which would allow you to turn that box around saving you from walling off the trunk...) again, full coverage is not required. but sealing the doors is a must. when you seal the doors you must first cover the the larger holes with some kind of metal mesh product so the deadener can span across it. finally, on the closed celled foam, check the craft stores like you mentioned or try online (link). stick that under/ between plastic panels (and door panels) will decouple them from a vibrating surface and quiet the rattles.

no real reason to go really "all out" with deadening in that car considering the shape it is in.

[lithium 358]

awesome box btw!!

[porkchop 304]

we used 6" foam couch cushions, cut to fit for the cougars fenders, and you can find a roll of peel and seal at the hardware store for 15 bucks, it will cover a decent area for cheap, the expanding foam will be at a hardware store, sometimes you can find the ol' two for five deal, just ask one of the employees where it is at..... usually it is close to the insulation area, and the peal and seal is close to roofing material.....uh, the couch was in the alley?

lol, them fenders are dead though bud, went from bang bang to thud thud...!

Just saying don't be afraid to improvise...

Edited October 6, 2009 by porkchop

[ppiflat10s 3]

no real reason to go really "all out" with deadening in that car considering the shape it is in.

Hey hey, watch it bud! I dont go around bashing your vehicle....

so if I was to get some 1/16" x 1/2" plate steel, and cut lengths to span the openings, how big of gaps could I leave and have the deadener still adhere and stick there for good?

what about cutting some fiberglass mat, laying that on there with some resin and maybe another layer of resin to stiffen it up and then cover the entire skin with deadener?

what mesh are you talking about exactly? I know theres expanded metal, but there isnt much surface area on a peice of that for the deadener to adhere to? and not sure how Id attach it to the door?

and I am going to use expanding foam in between the door skeleton and outer skin, as well as anywhere else I think it will be beneficial. probably trunk lid, maybe open rear doors and do in there, and if I get ambitious enough, maybe drop the headliner and go between the skeleton and ribs up there also.

another thing is, I was told by someone one here, that the setup I took out of the wifes car was too big and was choking the setup and not letting bass back into the cabin, and this box doesnt leave much area for the waves to get around. plus I dont want then to be vulnerable to stuff in the trunk because as the one pic shows, anything in the trunk is going to be RIGHT next to them basically. also, as a reference, my wifes car has 1 12 on 300 watts forward firing without being sealed from the trunk, and it isnt too bad. Id hope 3 times the power, almost triple the cone area, and a tighter fit would be even better.

if I come across a way to mount the box right where it is very ridgidly, I might make some quick little fiberglass panels that will mount to the metal where the seat mounts and go right to the face of the box. if I sealed it off though, I would want to seal those holes where the rear speakers were, right?\

I got some terminals for the in-box wiring and some resin tonight, didnt get carpet because the box is gonna take 2 rolls, and it was 14 a roll at checkers, but the same stuff is 8.88 at walmart, but when the wife went by there for me after work, they didnt have black in stock, so Im just gonna wait on that to get back in stock.

tomorrow I plan on getting the factory deck out, new one just sitting there (no dash kit yet), hopefully carpet laid back in, amps mounted, and seats back in(front anyways). also the box will get the inside radius glassed.

is it true I should also ground the chassis of the deck? is the ground wire in the harness not sufficent or something?

[dat 0]

Very interesting install !

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Interesting box, and cool to see someone using the PPI's.

[ppiflat10s 3]

the big brown truck left a few minutes ago.

holy crap that 8 gauge speaker wire is fat, its mostly the insulation, but not sure how well its gonna hide under the carpet.

its 10 gauge from each sub to the terminal on the box, and 8 from amp to box. Im sure I didnt need 8 gauge speaker wire for only ~800 watts, but next system Ill already be set on all wiring but the main 1/0 run.

[ppiflat10s 3]

oh, and yes that finger is shorter than the rest. little run-in with the jointer back in high school.

[jcarter1885 995]

oh, and yes that finger is shorter than the rest. little run-in with the jointer back in high school.

That was the first thing I noticed before the wire, good luck on the istall man (the big brown truck is headed my way on thursday cant wait, ).

[ppiflat10s 3]

I didnt really notice it while uploading it and then when I saw it full size... WHAM first thing I saw too.

[ppiflat10s 3]

got the wiring ran, and the amps wired up. I downloaded a bunch of tones off ROE to set the gain, and figured since I wouldnt use that disc for anything else I downloaded them all, and all the sine sweeps and stuff as well. I only tested one out on my computer and it announced the frequency, so I figured they probably all did. I arranged them in order in the burn list as well but it changed the order as it burnt it... and they DONT all announce the freq.

so I ended up setting the gains to a 20-60HZ sweep because thats one that announced itself and had a 50HZ tone in it. I figured it would be around 23 seconds in and set the gain so my voltage was where I want when the counter hit 23 sec.

the amp for the comps, I set it using the same sweep but used the 60HZ at the end around 30 sec. I have the HPF on the deck at 80 though, so I need to get a higher tone to set that amp, right. I think Im gonna check the burn log and see what order it changed to so I can make a cheat sheet so I know what all the tones are.

I turned the HPF all the way off and the mid didnt seem to do too bad, of course it was sitting free-air on the pass. floor so it didnt really have any impact when it hit. tweeter is LOUD though, but I played with the custom eq on the deck and dropped the last few settings, not sure what frequencies they were, but I made it roll off and it made it sound much better. Ill play with it more of course after I have them installed for good and aiming where they will be permanently.

I ran into a problem with the seats though, there is plenty of clearance above the amps, but when you look in the pic of the bare floor and wiring, where I have the grounds running down the hump from the e brake bracket. I didnt pay attention to how close the seat rail was right there and the bolt holes are about 1/16 away from lining up because the seat cant get close enough any more. I think I just have to reroute it a tiny bit towards the back as it drops down and it should fit then.

can barely tell theres an amp under there

while I was working in there I heard a weird noise in the direction of the door, looked over and saw this....

then kept watching and eventually saw this...

....

[lithium 358]

no real reason to go really "all out" with deadening in that car considering the shape it is in.

Hey hey, watch it bud! I dont go around bashing your vehicle.... haha sorry, i cant talk to much shit tho.... im building a false floor while my tranny is about to go.. so if I was to get some 1/16" x 1/2" plate steel, and cut lengths to span the openings, how big of gaps could I leave and have the deadener still adhere and stick there for good? i noticed my door flexes when you put the windows up so stiffening might be bad for the window motor thingies... but thats just speculation. you could go ahead and do that tho. id say, depending on the quality of the deadener's adhesive, you could spand a couple inches just fine (2 or 3). what about cutting some fiberglass mat, laying that on there with some resin and maybe another layer of resin to stiffen it up and then cover the entire skin with deadener? ummm, you could make molds to cover the holes on the door. but you want to be able to access inside of the doors some how (for repairs) so dont cover the whole thing... using fg to stiffen up the door card could work quite well! what mesh are you talking about exactly? I know theres expanded metal, but there isnt much surface area on a peice of that for the deadener to adhere to? and not sure how Id attach it to the door? like roof flashing or chicken fence wire. its just to give the deadener something alittle stiffer then air to grab on to when spanning large holes. (use a sheet metal screw to attach, or non hardening caulk.. like silicon) and I am going to use expanding foam in between the door skeleton and outer skin, as well as anywhere else I think it will be beneficial. probably trunk lid, maybe open rear doors and do in there, and if I get ambitious enough, maybe drop the headliner and go between the skeleton and ribs up there also. careful with that stuff in the door, u need to allow water to get out of between the skins. hit anywhere else u can think of. trunk lid is great. i also hit my rear deck real good. another thing is, I was told by someone one here, that the setup I took out of the wifes car was too big and was choking the setup and not letting bass back into the cabin, and this box doesnt leave much area for the waves to get around. plus I dont want then to be vulnerable to stuff in the trunk because as the one pic shows, anything in the trunk is going to be RIGHT next to them basically. also, as a reference, my wifes car has 1 12 on 300 watts forward firing without being sealed from the trunk, and it isnt too bad. Id hope 3 times the power, almost triple the cone area, and a tighter fit would be even better. afew points: -first figure out which is louder firing forward or backwards. make sure to move the box around in the trunk, varying the distance from the trunk lid. (the box choking the path to the cabin maybe a problem buy you have to expirment with that first.) (firing backwards is ussually louder in a trunked car) (id also reccomend removing the rear deck speakers.) -if you go with rear firing, your pretty much out of trunk space with a box that big. keep your things in the backseat, or make contraption to hold your shit off to each side of the box with netting or a box. - if you decide to firing forward, id recommend you do a wall. if I come across a way to mount the box right where it is very ridgidly, I might make some quick little fiberglass panels that will mount to the metal where the seat mounts and go right to the face of the box. if I sealed it off though, I would want to seal those holes where the rear speakers were, right?\ yes this is referred to as walling it off. you must seperate the trunk from the cabin. this "could" net the most output. I got some terminals for the in-box wiring and some resin tonight, didnt get carpet because the box is gonna take 2 rolls, and it was 14 a roll at checkers, but the same stuff is 8.88 at walmart, but when the wife went by there for me after work, they didnt have black in stock, so Im just gonna wait on that to get back in stock. partsexpress has cabnet carpet real cheap too. 5.25 a yard i think. i just ordered abunch... tomorrow I plan on getting the factory deck out, new one just sitting there (no dash kit yet), hopefully carpet laid back in, amps mounted, and seats back in(front anyways). also the box will get the inside radius glassed. is it true I should also ground the chassis of the deck? is the ground wire in the harness not sufficent or something? well it wont hurt ot do an additional ground... so if you got wire i would ground it to the firewall...

sorry that is such a mess, i lost internet so i couldnt post it. and i stuck it in a file to save it but the spaces are missing.

Edited October 7, 2009 by lithium

[lithium 358]

good job with the amps!

[ppiflat10s 3]

alright, Ill just use some sheet metal under the deadener. and no matter how much gain I could get from rear-firing, Im 99% set on forward firing so far. even if it could be louder, I am at HD alot getting crap for work (shop there later on after work and dont like driving the truck if I dont have to, its worse than the car, lol) and dont wanna put a bag of thin set, or saw blades, or cinder blocks, etc... in the back seat. I know the car isnt the nicest, but no reason to ruin the interior any more than it is.

as for the expending foam in the door, Im only going to do it in a spot every couple inches, not solid all the way across the door.

and I think the only reason the door would flex is because the initial torque of the window motor overcomes the strength of the door when it first starts to move. because I doubt the manuf. designed the door to flex just right as the window went up.

and Im gonna go checkout the partsexpress carpet right now.

tomorrow Im gonna go get my brushes so I can get the glass work going, I gotta get those pods for the mids going because Id rather listen to >80HZ more than <80HZ if I can only finish one setup or the other first.

should get the big 3, seats mounted, and the beginnings of the pods done tomorrow.

[lithium 358]

sounds good. doing a wall will also save you from deadening the trunk so thats a plus. gl with the pods!

[ppiflat10s 3]

well, didnt get as much done as I wanted. me and the lady went to breakfast since it was her day off, then home depot. then I had to help her take her seats out because she wanted to really get her car clean.

but I got the radius's in the box glassed and got the pods built/wrapped/first layer of glass brushed on. tomorrow Im gonna go to walmart and get my carpet, because I cant even browse parts-express right now, plus Id have to wait on shipping...

I think I am going to wrap the pods in vinyl. probably black because the dash is black and I think that will look better than the wrong color of tan. I was going to paint it but I really hate sanding so if Im only going to wrap it in vinyl I barely have to sand it at all. I also made them so they utilize the stock grilles, screws to the door panels in 4 places and pops into the door in 3 places. Im going to try and put some foam between the panel and the inner door right around this setup to somewhat seal it to the door, and to help stop any possible rattles.

basically the only things I am waiting on now to finish it up are:

*the dash kit to get the cd player installed permanenetly

*carpet for box

*vinyl to wrap the pods(and to finish them of course)

also, unrelated to audio, I have some tint coming thats supposed to be cnc cut to fit my car perfectly with no trimming so Ill see how that goes. they have about 27k messages in their feedback and its 99.6% positive and all they do is tint so it must fit pretty good. I got 35 for the front, and 20 the rest of the way around. wanted to go 5% in the back, but the law here is 33% minimum VLT for the front and I have gotten in enough trouble before to where I dont wanna draw any attention to myself. and I thought 35 would look dumb right next to 5 so thats why I got 20% for the rear. and it was only 27 shipped so worst case is Im out a little money, best case- my windows are tinted.

[ppiflat10s 3]

got the box done, wired up, and in the car. I got the pods done except for tomorrow Im gonna grind down any high spots and smooth it up as best as I can(or as good as needs be) with the grinder, then I have some polyfill type material to wrap it in and then black vinyl to go over that.

UPS says my dash kit is here tomorrow so I can get the deck installed for good. get my tweets in the door and mount the crossovers. then the worst part- getting the wiring into the door...

then put all the trim back in(except the rear section where I still need to get a new seatbelt) and its finished. cant do the big 3 because I need to take the ring terminals to my grandpas house and put them in the vice and drill out the hole a little bit on a few.

1st layer of glass

couple more (probably overbuilt this thing but oh well)

subs about to go in

all wrapped up

and its in!

[jcarter1885 995]

Im tuned in.

[porkchop 304]

look at you doing the dam thing, you go boi!

chop

[nem 2,019]

Looking good.