DEH-P600UB/BXi1208D/Infinity 475a/ABC600V/3-PPI PCX102's

[ppiflat10s 3]

well, havent started the install, still waiting on the battery terminals, some ring terminals, d block, comps, some speaker wire, and of course gotta find an install sleeve and trim ring the douchebag didnt send me with the HU, got some lined p just waiting to see if the guy ever gets back to me. but heres some pics. I am also probably going to wait til I get some CLD tiles for the doors to install the comps, and the box is going to be somewhere around 3-3.5 cubes at 32-35. still gotta make a decision on that.

but heres some pics of what Ive gotten so far.

the odd sub is just a RF S212S4 to compare the size of it.

[ppiflat10s 3]

got some more stuff from the UPS guy today.

Im sure noone here likes this stuff, but Ive owned amps/speakers/subs and have always been happy with their products myself, and I got these pretty cheap and couldnt pass them up.

Edited September 30, 2009 by ppiflat10s

[SmokeyDog 6]

got some more stuff from the UPS guy today.

Im sure noone here likes this stuff, but Ive owned amps/speakers/subs and have always been happy with their products myself, and I got these pretty cheap and couldnt pass them up.

if the price is right take it. thats what i say

Edited October 1, 2009 by SmokeyDog

[ppiflat10s 3]

wont get the best results from them anyways because after searching for deadeners last night, dicided not to deaden the doors right away. I was thinking of getting a couple second skin SPL tiles per door to reinforce the outer door skin, but then pricing the damplifier lite ( was only buying it to seal the inner door skin to make the door somewhat of an enclosure because thats what I read to do) and then after shipping as well decided to just hold off and maybe do it later. gaurantee it will sound better than my stock setup, sounds so quiet, as well as SO crappy when you get it remotely loud

[Dutchie. 10]

@ the audiobahn stuff.

You said that you liked it, and this is your system. Go for it.

And if the price is right, then, once again, go for it.

Good luck with the install.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

@ the audiobahn stuff.

You said that you liked it, and this is your system. Go for it.

And if the price is right, then, once again, go for it.

Good luck with the install.

I agree. Nothing wrong with it if it works for you and fills the needs or goals you set for your install. I helped build a few shop demo cars with mostly Audiobahn back in the late 90's, the amps were decent, just current hogs.

[ppiflat10s 3]

yeah, I had a aw1300HCX for a while, rated at 600x1@2 ohms, did get a little louder than the BP300.1 rated 300x1@2 ohms in the same exact install otherwise. and price wasnt too far apart if I remember right. the AW1200X and the Alum12Q were my favorite things Ive had from them. this was back in about 01/02 I think.

tomorrow I got a few things to do early on and then Im going to clean it out and then start the tear down.

still debating on some inexpensive dampner for the doors. was looking at 20 ft of edead 45 just for the doors for only $1/ft^2, comes out to 33 shipped. 25ft^2 bulk pack of fat mat extreme (50 mil) with roller and knife is 45 shipped. damplifier lite is a little more....

is the point to deaden the doors more to seal the door to make somewhat of an enclosure for the mid(while stopping vibration and rattling just a added benefit), or is it mainly to stop any possibility of rattling, or??? I am going to see what its like just dropping them into an unmodified door, but for those reading this who have done that, and then deadened the doors later, how noticable is the improvement? stronger midbass?

ordered up my d block, 12 gauge speaker wire for the comps, 8 gauge from amp to box and 10 to wire the subs in the box, as well as a bunch of ring terminals to do the big 3.

[jcarter1885 995]

Lets get this build going, coming along nicely product rise.

[ppiflat10s 3]

calm down Jay, got a bit done today. spent most of the time cleaning the seats/door panels/carpet I tore out. while pulling out the rear seat notice the full drivers rear seat belt just lying there. wont retract- broken spring, so I gotta pick up one of those before it all goes back together. took a vid to get a sample of the stock setup to compare when Im finished. faded f/r and went l/r to hear them all separately, and they sound good once you see what they look like, cant believe they could still sound like that in their condition. also the power antenna is gonna need to be replaced, moves a foot and the rest of its "movement" is just a bunch of clicking.

shes a sweet ride aint she!

and of course, you cant roll without your foster imposter

check these beaut's out, and they dont sound too bad for their condition.

few pics before it starts

got her stripped pretty good

got the rear speakers out and the grilles back on the rear deck

getting wires to the comps in the door is gonna be a real PITA. I think Im gonna take the doors off at the hinge and feed them through the factory harness.

Edited October 2, 2009 by ppiflat10s

[Julian 641]

Running the wire through the little conduit to the door is really easy, all you need is a metal coat hanger and some tape. that's how i did mine.

you can always still use your factory wiring, i did that before i opted to wire them all with new wire seeing how mine for some reason wouldn't work on the factory wiring.

Btw i'll have that knob out by friday (tomorrow)

[ppiflat10s 3]

alright cool, and not sure youve seen the inside of a 90-93 accords door. it has a large plastic cover that hides where the harness enters the door. didnt look real hard, but it appears that it goes in and pops into place with those kind of plastic rivets that dont pull out like most panel clips do. on top of that it is on the other side of the window channel so to remove it I have to unbolt the front window channel and remove it. then, the flexible part from door to car goes instantly to a 90 out of the door, up 6 inches or so, then flattens alot, goes 90 again to the front of the car about 4 inches then finally into the car. and the factory wiring looks to be about 22 gauge or something. I could fit both wires with their insulation in the same space as just the copper strands in one side of the wire thats replacing it. (almost).

tomorrow I gotta go move a couch and a bed for my grandparents so I dont know if Ill get to it, but I hope to get the comps in the doors. or at least start on the MDF rings to install them. would it be better to have the mid in a sealed enclosure. if I made a mdf cylinder to mount the speaker in it would only be around 1/15 ft^3 before driver displacement

[Estsound 7]

tuned in !

[ppiflat10s 3]

had to redesign my box, was going to run a common chamber with a port on each end. but the face of the box could only be so big, and I though one sub up high centered with a sub down low on each side would fit in between the ports. but it wont. so I am going to basically have 3 individual boxes in one, still staggering the subs like I was going to, but I am going to have horizontal slot ports (9.625Wx1.5H), one below the middle sub, one above each outer sub. each subs going to be in 1 cube tuned to 35. I could have made it like I wanted if I made the box a pie shape in the back and have the subs and port rear firing, but the box would be such a tight fit that it would almost be like sealing the trunk off from the car with the subs pointing the wrong way.

got it drawn up though, nothing else was done today, too much other crap, but I got my speaker wire for the comps today, so tomorrow I should get a box built and maybe some progress towards the comps.

[lithium 358]

yeah, I had a aw1300HCX for a while, rated at 600x1@2 ohms, did get a little louder than the BP300.1 rated 300x1@2 ohms in the same exact install otherwise. and price wasnt too far apart if I remember right. the AW1200X and the Alum12Q were my favorite things Ive had from them. this was back in about 01/02 I think.

tomorrow I got a few things to do early on and then Im going to clean it out and then start the tear down.

still debating on some inexpensive dampner for the doors. was looking at 20 ft of edead 45 just for the doors for only $1/ft^2, comes out to 33 shipped. 25ft^2 bulk pack of fat mat extreme (50 mil) with roller and knife is 45 shipped. damplifier lite is a little more....

is the point to deaden the doors more to seal the door to make somewhat of an enclosure for the mid(while stopping vibration and rattling just a added benefit), or is it mainly to stop any possibility of rattling, or??? I am going to see what its like just dropping them into an unmodified door, but for those reading this who have done that, and then deadened the doors later, how noticable is the improvement? stronger midbass?

ordered up my d block, 12 gauge speaker wire for the comps, 8 gauge from amp to box and 10 to wire the subs in the box, as well as a bunch of ring terminals to do the big 3.

@ deadening with a low budget.. here is my idea, im no expert on this stuff tho- READ THIS FIRST!! (link)

after seeing some of the problems with edead i wouldn't recommend it. but as far as process goes i would:

1) hit the outer skin with about 25% coverage with some CLD tiles (aka spl tiles from SS or the product from Sound deadener showdown, i wont get into politics here so it up to you to pick a product).

2) seal the access holes... lots of ways to do this. you could use some metal mesh and a cheap deadening mat, i've seen it done with plastic which was heated to the shape of the hole, fiberglass, sheet metal... etc

3) CDL tiles on inner door skin, 25 percent coverage.

4) find some closed cell foam at a local store to use to decouple the door card from the door metal. putting the foam in between stops vibrations from transferring in to the door card and making more noise.

5) if you can find a cheap source for mlv (mass loading vinyl, or anything that weights 1 pound per sq foot and isn't too thick or too ridged) get some. this would go between the door card and closed cell foam. this acts as a barrier, which prevents rattles and road noise from door from getting into the cabin. ---- very important step if you serious about this stuff.

[ppiflat10s 3]

@ deadening with a low budget.. here is my idea, im no expert on this stuff tho- READ THIS FIRST!! (link)

after seeing some of the problems with edead i wouldn't recommend it. but as far as process goes i would:

1) hit the outer skin with about 25% coverage with some CLD tiles (aka spl tiles from SS or the product from Sound deadener showdown, i wont get into politics here so it up to you to pick a product).

I have looked around on that site, and was going to get 2 or 3 cld tiles per door but they didnt have larger sheets for the inner door skin, so I figured Id get everything in one place. are those tiles as moldable as regular damplifier/dynamat/fatmat/etc is? if so I could use it for the inner skin as well.

2) seal the access holes... lots of ways to do this. you could use some metal mesh and a cheap deadening mat, i've seen it done with plastic which was heated to the shape of the hole, fiberglass, sheet metal... etc

I had planned on just covering the entire inner door skin with deadener. it would stick to the areas that were already metal, and would seal the open areas.

3) CDL tiles on inner door skin, 25 percent coverage.

if I sealed the door with metal mesh and cheap deadener like suggested above, still use some CLD tiles on the inner skin?

4) find some closed cell foam at a local store to use to decouple the door card from the door metal. putting the foam in between stops vibrations from transferring in to the door card and making more noise.

what kind of store would I go to for this. dont remember seeing anything in HD or lowes when Im in there, but that doesnt mean its not in there somewhere. a huge new craft store (hobby lobby) just opened here and I am gonna check them out and see if they got anything I could use in there.

5) if you can find a cheap source for mlv (mass loading vinyl, or anything that weights 1 pound per sq foot and isn't too thick or too ridged) get some. this would go between the door card and closed cell foam. this acts as a barrier, which prevents rattles and road noise from door from getting into the cabin. ---- very important step if you serious about this stuff.

Ill probably skip this one, especially at first seeing as how even without this stuff, the rest of it is gonna cost more than the speakers did!

[ppiflat10s 3]

well, got the box done, what a pain in the ass. I had to make it in sections and then join then, never building a box with 3 individual chambers in one box again for the rest of my life.

I am going to put some screen/resin inside still on the radius to stiffen it up just in case, than sand the radius into a little nicer of a radius.

some pics during assembly

these 3 peices...

turn into this...

man that suckers tall, looks like it should stand up in an SUV

fits perfect.

doesnt leave much trunk space left, oh well I guess.

comps are gonna be the last thing Im worried about. I will run the wire from the amp to the door right now, but leave the amp disconnected for until everything else is done. no way they will go in the doors without spacing them out 7/8 inch, but then they are RIGHT against the back of the door panel. so I am going to cut part of the door panel off ( part of the door panel above the grille is actually over about 1/4 of the speaker) and fiberglass some pods to position them something like in the pics. tweeter is gonna get sunk into the door panel like the picture. I am going to try and make the pod for the mid so that after I pop the door panel on, before I install the speaker the pod will screw to the door so that the mid isnt just mounted to the door panel, but should I make it so that the back is open and the mid has the entire door as its enclosure, or should I seal the pod? I could probably get around 1/8-1/4 ft^3 is all. could give it more but I dont want the speaker to be too far off the door panel.

Edited October 4, 2009 by ppiflat10s

[jcarter1885 995]

Very nice box, man (rather impressive)

[Estsound 7]

nice cat lol, awesome box man, keep up good work. def tuned in

[porkchop 304]

[porkchop 304]

what will be your overall plans with the finishing look around the sides and face of the enclosure ? looks like you will see some nice numbers come out of this.

[ppiflat10s 3]

I made the back 1/4 inch longer than the box itself and am going to rip 3 more 1/4 x 3/4 inch strips per side to give myself an area to tuck the carpet when I wrap it. and at the port, I am going to spray them flat black inside, and then when I cut the carpet away from the port, I will cut it flush on the port sides, flush on the square edge, and then the flap Im left will I will tack up with adhesive as well and roll it into the port to cover the flare with carpet. I think Im also gonna borrow my dads belt sander and flush everything up a bit better before I carpet it. also need to glass the inside of the radius like I posted, so until then it wont be playing at all. still waiting on some ring terminals and a d block anyways. plus I gotta get the resin and mesh, so at least I have quite a few things Im waiting on, I hate it when I have everything done and have to wait for one ring terminal, or some speaker wire or something just to listen to it. I have the adhesive to carpet it, but forgot to stop at checkers to grab some carpet, so I still need to go back and get that as well.

I doubt Ill ever get mic'd, it would be cool, but I dont even have a clue where to do it around here, probably have to drive down to phoenix.

my friend has one of those google G1 phones through Tmobile, and it has a db meter on it. lol, I wonder if its even within 3db accuracy?

I got lucky with the glue. I just started thinking I wasnt sure if the glue in the radius had set yet before I put the box down horizontal, and just took the 2 outer subs out to check and there was only one drop of glue on one sub and it hit the basket. that would have been pretty bad!

[ppiflat10s 3]

oh, and I think I just got what you meant. I have no plans as of right now to seal the enclosure to the seat back. I just decided I was going to fire forwards from now on so I dont have to worry about loose junk sliding around the trunk and damaging the sub/s.

[porkchop 304]

i see. i have read quite of few build logs that suggest sealing that area off provides good results.

looking back at your build pics, i bet that was some labor to get it all done.

where at in AZ...mom, use to stay in AJ .......jc?

[porkchop 304]

o and brother stays 15 miles west of phoenix.

[ppiflat10s 3]

... and AJ would be? but Im about 90 miles north of phoenix. been in AZ for just over 2 years now, and have no clue what city AJ would be?

and Im sure I would get better results from sealing it off, but dont want to put too much work into anything permanent because I kinda hate that car right now, but am in no position to get a new one. I got a few things to fix on it and then it wont be so bad though, and if I ever decide I like it enough to keep it a long time, Ill put some effort into sealing it, unless I think its loud enough as it sits.