I'm new.

[danometal 1]

Hello all.

My name is Daniel. I joined your forum to be enabled to ask some simple questions in accordance with the knowledge base of those familiar with FI products.

Peace.

[jcarter1885 995]

Glad you could join us.

[bigrank916 72]

Welcome. You will find mucho info here. Many smart dudes on here.

[danometal 1]

Welcome. You will find mucho info here. Many smart dudes on here.

Excellent!

First off, I hope I'm replying correctly. We'll see.

Secondly, given the forum stipulations whereas a newbie's first 3 posts are posted in this section, I suppose I'll ask my initial questions here:

I will be obtaining a 2001 Saturn L200 in a couple months, and I feel that, to properly introduce it to my ownership, it deserves to be punished a little with a single 15" slot ported subwoofer set up. I currently have 2 shallow mount Kenwood Excelon 12" sealed subs powered by a Rockford P1000.1bd running at 2 ohms in an old work truck. I plan to swipe that amp for the Saturn setup. The Rockford pushes 891 watts RMS at 2 ohms, and 1,300+ watts RMS at 1 ohm.

After much research, I became quite interested in FI's 15" subwoofers. I have yet to see a negative review thereof.

My questions are:

1). Would it be best to go with a dual 2 ohm subwoofer powered at 1 ohm, or a dual 1 ohm subwoofer powered at 2 ohms. I have no experience running any such 1 ohm setup.

2). If the advice I receive includes 1 ohm power, should I go with the 800 watt stock SSD, the SSD with the power upgrade, or a stock BL? I'm opting out on the Q model, as I want to build a box big enough to tune to 25 hertz or less, depending on RE Audio's brilliant box calculator.

3). If the 2 ohm power option is more suitable for my application, I'm aware that a stock SSD is about all that's feasible if I buy my subwoofer from FI.

*** Whatever the case may be, I desire to listen to my setup as much as I feel like and as loud as I feel like without any concern over an over heating amp. I understand Rockford bds are 1 ohm stable, but does that mean it's daily driver stable?

Thank you all in advance.

Peace.

[jcarter1885 995]

Welcome. You will find mucho info here. Many smart dudes on here.

Excellent!

First off, I hope I'm replying correctly. We'll see.

Secondly, given the forum stipulations whereas a newbie's first 3 posts are posted in this section, I suppose I'll ask my initial questions here:

I will be obtaining a 2001 Saturn L200 in a couple months, and I feel that, to properly introduce it to my ownership, it deserves to be punished a little with a single 15" slot ported subwoofer set up. I currently have 2 shallow mount Kenwood Excelon 12" sealed subs powered by a Rockford P1000.1bd running at 2 ohms in an old work truck. I plan to swipe that amp for the Saturn setup. The Rockford pushes 891 watts RMS at 2 ohms, and 1,300+ watts RMS at 1 ohm.

After much research, I became quite interested in FI's 15" subwoofers. I have yet to see a negative review thereof.

My questions are:

1). Would it be best to go with a dual 2 ohm subwoofer powered at 1 ohm, or a dual 1 ohm subwoofer powered at 2 ohms. I have no experience running any such 1 ohm setup.

2). If the advice I receive includes 1 ohm power, should I go with the 800 watt stock SSD, the SSD with the power upgrade, or a stock BL? I'm opting out on the Q model, as I want to build a box big enough to tune to 25 hertz or less, depending on RE Audio's brilliant box calculator.

3). If the 2 ohm power option is more suitable for my application, I'm aware that a stock SSD is about all that's feasible if I buy my subwoofer from FI.

*** Whatever the case may be, I desire to listen to my setup as much as I feel like and as loud as I feel like without any concern over an over heating amp. I understand Rockford bds are 1 ohm stable, but does that mean it's daily driver stable?

Thank you all in advance.

Peace.

If you wanna run the SSD(Dual 1 ohm version) subwoofer then run your amp at 2 ohms, if you get the BL(dual 2 ohm version) then run your amp at 1 ohms. Running an amp that is 1 ohm stable at 1 ohms is fine and good for a daily driver (just do the Big 3 Three upgrades and add a good secondary battery). I wouldnt tune any subwoofer setup for a car below 25Hz, the SSD requires 33Hz tuning and the BL requires 28-37Hz tuning.

[danometal 1]

Welcome. You will find mucho info here. Many smart dudes on here.

Excellent!

First off, I hope I'm replying correctly. We'll see.

Secondly, given the forum stipulations whereas a newbie's first 3 posts are posted in this section, I suppose I'll ask my initial questions here:

I will be obtaining a 2001 Saturn L200 in a couple months, and I feel that, to properly introduce it to my ownership, it deserves to be punished a little with a single 15" slot ported subwoofer set up. I currently have 2 shallow mount Kenwood Excelon 12" sealed subs powered by a Rockford P1000.1bd running at 2 ohms in an old work truck. I plan to swipe that amp for the Saturn setup. The Rockford pushes 891 watts RMS at 2 ohms, and 1,300+ watts RMS at 1 ohm.

After much research, I became quite interested in FI's 15" subwoofers. I have yet to see a negative review thereof.

My questions are:

1). Would it be best to go with a dual 2 ohm subwoofer powered at 1 ohm, or a dual 1 ohm subwoofer powered at 2 ohms. I have no experience running any such 1 ohm setup.

2). If the advice I receive includes 1 ohm power, should I go with the 800 watt stock SSD, the SSD with the power upgrade, or a stock BL? I'm opting out on the Q model, as I want to build a box big enough to tune to 25 hertz or less, depending on RE Audio's brilliant box calculator.

3). If the 2 ohm power option is more suitable for my application, I'm aware that a stock SSD is about all that's feasible if I buy my subwoofer from FI.

*** Whatever the case may be, I desire to listen to my setup as much as I feel like and as loud as I feel like without any concern over an over heating amp. I understand Rockford bds are 1 ohm stable, but does that mean it's daily driver stable?

Thank you all in advance.

Peace.

If you wanna run the SSD(Dual 1 ohm version) subwoofer then run your amp at 2 ohms, if you get the BL(dual 2 ohm version) then run your amp at 1 ohms. Running an amp that is 1 ohm stable at 1 ohms is fine and good for a daily driver (just do the Big 3 Three upgrades and add a good secondary battery). I wouldnt tune any subwoofer setup for a car below 25Hz, the SSD requires 33Hz tuning and the BL requires 28-37Hz tuning.

Wow. Thank you for the quick response!!

Subsequent questions:

1). Would getting a more powerful battery circumvent the need for an additional battery?

2). If not, where and how would I wire it in accordance with the stock battery?

3). Will lower tuning than 33 for the SSD (as well as the 28-37 for the BL) affect its safety and/or performance? I ask because it's the 20-30 hertz range I want to improve over my

Kenwoods. They roll off below 30.

4). If low tuning will adversely affect the application of both the SSD and BL, would the Q in a sealed box be more appropriate?

Thank you again, friend.

Peace.

[patented17 21]

Welcome and thanks for reading the rules.

[jcarter1885 995]

Wow. Thank you for the quick response!!

Subsequent questions:

1). Would getting a more powerful battery circumvent the need for an additional battery?

2). If not, where and how would I wire it in accordance with the stock battery?

3). Will lower tuning than 33 for the SSD (as well as the 28-37 for the BL) affect its safety and/or performance? I ask because it's the 20-30 hertz range I want to improve over my

Kenwoods. They roll off below 30.

4). If low tuning will adversely affect the application of both the SSD and BL, would the Q in a sealed box be more appropriate?

Thank you again, friend.

Peace.

To answer your first question, it depends on how big of a battery you can throw in the primary location (starting battery spot). To wire a battery to another battery just go:

battery 1(positive terminal) --------fuse--------------------------fuse-----------battery 2 (positive terminal)-----fuse-----amp

battery 1(negative terminal)---------------------------------------------------------battery 2 (negative terminal) or you can just ground this battery to a part of your cars chassis.

Oh yeah, purchasing a voltmeter will help you in understanding if you need more power or not (depending on how many volts your dropping or light dimming issues you have then you know you will need an extra battery or what not).

Edited September 27, 2009 by jay-cee

[nem 2,019]

Welcome

Just make sure you post your questions in the proper section so others can see it.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Welcome to SSA. Thank you for taking the time to check out the rules. Makes a difference.

I would suggest reposting your questions in the General section as mentioned above. It will help get more focus on your questions.

[socialstealth 0]

4). If low tuning will adversely affect the application of both the SSD and BL, would the Q in a sealed box be more appropriate?

I'm interested in this question as well, Will a sealed box allow notes under 30 hz? The lower the frequency the more vibrations you feel, right?

[danometal 1]

Wow. Thank you for the quick response!!

Subsequent questions:

1). Would getting a more powerful battery circumvent the need for an additional battery?

2). If not, where and how would I wire it in accordance with the stock battery?

3). Will lower tuning than 33 for the SSD (as well as the 28-37 for the BL) affect its safety and/or performance? I ask because it's the 20-30 hertz range I want to improve over my

Kenwoods. They roll off below 30.

4). If low tuning will adversely affect the application of both the SSD and BL, would the Q in a sealed box be more appropriate?

Thank you again, friend.

Peace.

To answer your first question, it depends on how big of a battery you can throw in the primary location (starting battery spot). To wire a battery to another battery just go:

battery 1(positive terminal) --------fuse--------------------------fuse-----------battery 2 (positive terminal)-----fuse-----amp

battery 1(negative terminal)---------------------------------------------------------battery 2 (negative terminal) or you can just ground this battery to a part of your cars chassis.

Oh yeah, purchasing a voltmeter will help you in understanding if you need more power or not (depending on how many volts your dropping or light dimming issues you have then you know you will need an extra battery or what not).

Hey thanks, Jay-cee! I'll be considering this information.

Also, thanks to everyone else. See you folks on the topical forums. Peace.

[Jaydogg 0]

Welcome