4 guage for 1150 watts?

[ppiflat10s 3]

alright, I have 4 guage wiring right now, not installed. and there is some 1/0 on here I was considering buying, but if I dont need it then why spend more money.

I am going to do the big 3 in 4 gauge, there will be a run of probably 8+ feet to a D block under my seat where a 4ch amp will sit. it will enter a D block, and leave as 8 gauge to the 2ch.

another run of 4 will leave the D block and make a trip of about 6+ feet to the sub amp behind the rear seat.

I am going to set the gain on the sub amp at 800 watts, and not sure whats happening with the front stage, but worst case scenario - rear channels will be 100x2 and fronts 75x2.

so Ill be pushing 1150 watts at the most. my alternator is only a 80A as far as I know from online searching. might get a HO someday, but I hope not because I dont want to be driving this car for very long, aside from the fact that I have to find one first. also I dont listen to the music cranked all the time, sometimes I dont have the subs cranked up at all, sometimes just enough to add a little to the music, and of course sometimes its up high to show it off. so I have no idea of the voltage drop Ill see, so no idea of the current the amps will be pulling.

but is 4 gauge to the block enough, or do I need to run 1/0 for the big 3 and then to the block, and run 4 from there to the amp?

any reason to not to have both amps under seats with a longer speaker wire length to the subs box? 4 gauge would be plenty then, correct? Im pretty sure there is plenty of room under the seats to mount an amp under each with sufficient clearance for them to radiate their heat away.

[Matt2105 2]

alright, I have 4 guage wiring right now, not installed. and there is some 1/0 on here I was considering buying, but if I dont need it then why spend more money.

I am going to do the big 3 in 4 gauge, there will be a run of probably 8+ feet to a D block under my seat where a 4ch amp will sit. it will enter a D block, and leave as 8 gauge to the 2ch.

another run of 4 will leave the D block and make a trip of about 6+ feet to the sub amp behind the rear seat.

I am going to set the gain on the sub amp at 800 watts, and not sure whats happening with the front stage, but worst case scenario - rear channels will be 100x2 and fronts 75x2.

so Ill be pushing 1150 watts at the most. my alternator is only a 80A as far as I know from online searching. might get a HO someday, but I hope not because I dont want to be driving this car for very long, aside from the fact that I have to find one first. also I dont listen to the music cranked all the time, sometimes I dont have the subs cranked up at all, sometimes just enough to add a little to the music, and of course sometimes its up high to show it off. so I have no idea of the voltage drop Ill see, so no idea of the current the amps will be pulling.

but is 4 gauge to the block enough, or do I need to run 1/0 for the big 3 and then to the block, and run 4 from there to the amp?

any reason to not to have both amps under seats with a longer speaker wire length to the subs box? 4 gauge would be plenty then, correct? Im pretty sure there is plenty of room under the seats to mount an amp under each with sufficient clearance for them to radiate their heat away.

You dont NEED to use 0 gauge. However, when wiring, you should try to use the biggest simply because it flows better.

You'll be fine with 4 if you dont feel like spending the money.

[bigrank916 72]

Its just like cocks man. Bigger is always better.

[SPLScion 3]

Its just like cocks man. Bigger is always better.

so true, for ladies enjoyment, think of your amps as women. How big is your alt? For an example I had 1300 watts rms clamped, and had huge headlight dim before I did the big 3 in 1/0, and added a battery. I am talking epic headlight dim here, they practically turned off on bass notes. Now (with a power run, big 3, all grounds in 1/0) zero headlight dim on full tilt no matter what. Just remember you get out of it what you put into it.**

** edit: Just like with women

Edited September 24, 2009 by SPLScion

[ppiflat10s 3]

I think my alt is only 80A, at least thats what OE replacements are for my car. I found a 220A for an accord, but its for the newer ones.

I know in my mustang, running around 500RMS, I had some dimming(very minor) and did the big 3 in 1/0, as well as 1/0 to the amp and I had no dimming, my alt then was 95A I think. just did the 1/0 then because I got it on ebay with nice terminals used for dirt cheap, otherwise would have ran 4 then also. so I guess Im gonna go see if the 1/0 is still available. if I am going to run 1/0 is it ok to

run it to under the seat and then run 4 gauge only about a foot to the sub amp, and then run x gauge speaker wire back to the box, so it would be about 6' speaker wire just to the box. is paralleled runs of 12 enough (already have it) or do I need to run bigger?

and I know shorter runs of smaller wire can handle currents that require larger wire for longer runs, so is 4 still fine for the battery to ground, and block to ground, and maybe alt to batt if its a short run <4'

trying to gauge how much I should buy.

Edited September 25, 2009 by ppiflat10s

[Julian 641]

i ran that brutus on 4 gauge

as you know

if i can remember correctly that wire handles between 125-150 Amps

i barely had dimming. bigger is always better

[Estsound 7]

i heard that when running 500W RMS+ its good to use 0 gauge.

[iamamp3pimp 34]

i heard that when running 500W RMS+ its good to use 0 gauge.

you were heavily misinformed.

your setup will be fine on 4g...if you get dimming then do the big 3 in 1/0 as it seems to help.

i wouldnt know, setup in my sig, and i have not done the big three.

[KU40 173]

I used 4 gauge on a 1000 watt sub amp and about 300 watts of smaller amps. When I switched the power wire out for 0 gauge I noticed a tad less dimming.

[lithium 358]

make sure you get real 4 gauge too btw, not the cheap chit thats really 8 gauge w/ a thick shell...

[Lucky 76 5]

I would see how it performs. If you have voltage drops try 1/0 to the big 3. If you still get voltage drops replace the wire from the battery to the block. Its not like you are posing a question on which one to buy but which one to install. Since you already have the 4 might as well try it. It wont damage anything.

[ppiflat10s 3]

alright, I was thinking also about running the 4 gauge to the sub amp, and running the 8 I have (bought 4 gauge to put in the wifes car when I couldnt find the 8 I pulled out of her old car) to the 4 channel. since the front amp should be drawing around 20-25% of the current the sub amp will, might as well not have it off the same wire. but might as well give it a shot off the 4 gauge alone I guess, except the fact that the 8 gauge I already have is cheaper than buying a D block.

and I think I might have enough 4 to do the big 3 with also, because I have some extra from the last install, as well as some extra in the package I just bought.

[///M5 2,833]

Hope you have an efficient amplifier.

[jcarter1885 995]

alright, I was thinking also about running the 4 gauge to the sub amp, and running the 8 I have (bought 4 gauge to put in the wifes car when I couldnt find the 8 I pulled out of her old car) to the 4 channel. since the front amp should be drawing around 20-25% of the current the sub amp will, might as well not have it off the same wire. but might as well give it a shot off the 4 gauge alone I guess, except the fact that the 8 gauge I already have is cheaper than buying a D block.

and I think I might have enough 4 to do the big 3 with also, because I have some extra from the last install, as well as some extra in the package I just bought.

Just to be safe I would put 4 gauge on both of the amps, coming from a distribution block and 1/0 wire leavin block to fuse to battery. I have had a 4gauge leaving battery to fuse to distribution block then 4 gauge to each each and it did okay. Once I switched to what i recommended earlier, my amps have cool to touch longer, even my voltage liked the upgrade but nothing major. You minus well do it now, never know if you will upgrade and at least this part will already be taken care of.

Edited September 26, 2009 by jay-cee

[ppiflat10s 3]

damn, alright, I guess when I get home, Ill measure how much I need and hit up weldingsupply and order up some wire and ring terminals. guarantee i wont be upgrading this specific vehicle, and 2 gauge is 65% the cost of 1/0, so is 2 enough? the peices I cut for the big 3 may or may not work for the next vehicle, run from batt to block may or may not be too short for next vehicle, so I am not planning on running it 100% in whatever vehicle I get next. I will pay the extra for the 1/0 if I need it for THIS system, not for a plan of future upgrades. if I dont need it Ill just get the 2 gauge.

[SuBXeRo 1]

I used 4 gauage for 1000 watts and no issues. 4 gauge is rated up to like 1500 watts safely i think. I was in a similar position as you, debating how large my new grounds would be, i found that my grounds were 6 gauge and i never really had any issues with that believe it or not. I would have most likely bought 2 gauge had i redone it but like it was said before, the bigger wire you get the better. Electricity always takes the shortest path of least resistance and when you get a larger wire, the resistance at higher current will be less than if you were using as smaller gauge cable. Since money seems to be an issue, i would say you would be fine with a 2 gauge cable. If you really just wanted to go all out and never really worry about those grounds again, i'd go with the 1/0 cable. Either way, if you are running that 1000 watts plus stock stuff, the 2 should be enough. Get yourself an optima batt too, they help alot.

[jcarter1885 995]

damn, alright, I guess when I get home, Ill measure how much I need and hit up weldingsupply and order up some wire and ring terminals. guarantee i wont be upgrading this specific vehicle, and 2 gauge is 65% the cost of 1/0, so is 2 enough? the peices I cut for the big 3 may or may not work for the next vehicle, run from batt to block may or may not be too short for next vehicle, so I am not planning on running it 100% in whatever vehicle I get next. I will pay the extra for the 1/0 if I need it for THIS system, not for a plan of future upgrades. if I dont need it Ill just get the 2 gauge.

Im sorry to be that guy but hey it costs to do it right or eventually down the road you will run into problems and have to do what you should of did from start. Considering I didnt get an HO alternator yet, I havent upgraded 1 of the 3 wires in the Big 3 and thats the power wire leaving the battery(rear of vehicle) heading to front of car to fuse box, then starter and then alternator(I left it as 4 gauge). I replaced my grounds though: engine block to car's chassis with 1/0gauge and battery to cars chassis with two runs of 1/0 gauge (my voltage sits at 15.1v when car starts and no accessories with very small voltage drops with stock battery and alt running over 1300 watts and no light dimming at all). So if your not getting a HO alternator then you wont have to upgrade the power wire unless you just want to, so that should save you some money and yeah you can do it with 2 gauge(I would buy 2-2gauge wires for battery and 1-2gauge wire for you engines ground wire. Just my .02

[maddmatt02 0]

its not so much that money is an issue, I just dont wanna spend it on wiring I dont need when I could buy a video game or a blu ray or something visually enjoyable with the money, the wire will just sit there. like I said though, if I need to I will buy 0 gauge, but with the mix of responses here, Ill just install the 4 gauge and see how it goes. and then also go for a drive and periodically check the voltage with my dmm, and see how low I can get it and maybe decide to find an alt, hopefully not though

[ppiflat10s 3]

well, the cats out of the bag I guess, I was maddmatt02 when I first signed up here(and was just checking this on my moms laptop which I had used before and saved my account info), and I was talking about a system of a 15" BTL on a 1200D or something similar, but decided not to spend so much, and instead of seeming like someone full of crap rambling about stuff Im never going to buy and wasting peoples time, I started a new account to use from then on. I do actually have the stuff listed below sitting at my house and Ill be home on monday night and should at least get the deck in on tuesday. I got some catching up to do on the rentals maintenance though so maybe not.

Edited September 27, 2009 by ppiflat10s

[Burbarry 0]

Just spend the money and do the BIG 3 with 1/0 and run 1/0 back to your amps as well. I know it was already said before but I figured I would say it again, that way you might listen to us.

[ppiflat10s 3]

which of you do I listen to though... some say dont need to some say do it.

I probably will eventually, but I will definately put in the 4 to get it going before I get the 1/0. the subs I got cant take anymore power anyways, so wont upgrade the amp unless I get new subs as well, no rear speakers, so no additional amps after the 2 I got, so there wont be any more current draw for this setup than what its gonna pull now. Ill let you know how the 4 gauge treats me in the next week or so.

[Burbarry 0]

If you never plan to upgrade you will be ok with the 4 gauge. But if you are a bass head like most of us you will be upgrading sometime soon.

[ppiflat10s 3]

I know I will have a better (louder/more powerful) system down the road, I just KNOW that it will not be in this car. if I still own this vehicle a year from now (aside from dropping lots of coin on it for extensive repairs/mods) then I will consider myself a failure at life... lol

and in my next vehicle, I will then get the 1/0, and use the 4 guage I got not to do the big 3 in the wifes car, as shes only got maybe 250-300 watts right now and will most likely only add a smaller 2ch amp for some front speakers and she doesnt care about her system as much as I care (Im the reason hers is how its at now even)

Im startin to get a little excited about getting home and seeing all this stuff. hopefully Ill have some pics/vids up soon. will be sealed at first until I get my router, then Ill build the next best ported box Ive built so far.

[jcarter1885 995]

I know I will have a better (louder/more powerful) system down the road, I just KNOW that it will not be in this car. if I still own this vehicle a year from now (aside from dropping lots of coin on it for extensive repairs/mods) then I will consider myself a failure at life... lol

and in my next vehicle, I will then get the 1/0, and use the 4 guage I got not to do the big 3 in the wifes car, as shes only got maybe 250-300 watts right now and will most likely only add a smaller 2ch amp for some front speakers and she doesnt care about her system as much as I care (Im the reason hers is how its at now even)

Im startin to get a little excited about getting home and seeing all this stuff. hopefully Ill have some pics/vids up soon. will be sealed at first until I get my router, then Ill build the next best ported box Ive built so far.

Well good luck and dont forget to make a build log with pictures.

[ppiflat10s 3]

maybe... Ill get some for sure, but its hard for me to stop what im doing periodically and grab a camera. I like to just start and go til Im done, then take some pics...