how big of a difference will I notice between coax's and comp'

[ppiflat10s 3]

alright, system consists of

pioneer premier DEH-600UB, hifonics BXi1208D pushing 3 ppi PCX102's in 3.5 cubes at 35Hz (when I build the box, lol), no rear speakers

I am going to get a small 2ch amp for the front speakers and disable the internal amp in the HU,

but if I buy comps, the doors will not be deadened right away, and will probably only be some ~75 dollar comps like some alpine type s, phoenix gold, etc... and the amp will only be giving them anywhere from 60-100 watts per channel at 4 ohms. coax's would be mounted in doors as would the midbass and tweets would go on the door panels right by the dash.

should I just get coax's and amp them right away?

get comps and amp them right away?

get comps and run off HU and deaden doors right away and save for the amp?

[lithium 358]

do it right, get comps, put them on a decent amp, then deaden door. order doesnt matter as long as u do all 3 haha. but i would do it in the way i listed imo

on a budget, i would recommend pg rsd components (get the 6.5", if you they dont fit your factory location, figure out if you can fabricate a baffle to make them fit) would be great for your price range. really nice midbass for the price, especially after u deaden the door up. power them with, between 80-100 rms, they sound better with more power, but the tweeters get alittle to harsh on axis when u really crank them. (play with mounting them lower in the kicks or crossfire on dash...)

[ppiflat10s 3]

alright, and yeah, factory locations are 6.5's

Ill take a look at those, I might end up with more power for them, depends on what good deals there are when amp shopping time comes around.

[Notorious97200 339]

2 channels amps are not so expensive : I am waiting for a Sundown sax 50.4 that I will bridge to 2 channels for a comp set. Cost was about 200$ shipped in the USA.

There are much cheaper ones you could find on the web !

But don't go too cheap on your speakers.

As an example : the 2 most expensive things in my audio install are my head unit (Pioneer 88 prs II) and my component set (Focal 165KP).

just my 02 cents!!!

[ppiflat10s 3]

none of my stuff had really been more than another, my HU, my sub amp/wiring, and my trio of subs have all been within about 15 bucks of each other.

I actually want my comps/amp combo around the price of those 3, which would be around 150, willing to spend a bit more, but dont want to make the front stage way more than anything else because bass is really my primary concern, only reason I wanna amp the front speakers is so I can still hear the rest of the music and the words when I have it cranked.

my price range includes Cadence CWM6, MB Quart FSA216, JBL GTO607C (2 ohms), PG RSD 6CS, Kicker DS650.2, Alpine SPS-600C, Clarion SRQ1620S, Audiobahn ABC600V.

no other research has gone into those choices. audiobahn is in there because they are only 50 bucks shipped and Ive owned 1 amp, a set of 6x9's and 4 subs from them and have always been perfectly fine with their performance and reliability, especially for their price tag.

amps Im looking at are kicker zx250.2, cadence zrs2002, PG Ryval V752, and Diamond D1 250.2. also watching used amps waiting for a good deal.

also, I have an idea with comps but before I even get into it, what is the normal xover point on a set of passives?

[KU40 173]

IMO, components are well worth the price over coaxials. If the component set is just ok, at least the crossover should have a -3db option for the tweeter, which helps a ton. I've always used that feature. If you get a better component set the fine tuning with the crossover gets more elaborate, as I think my JL XR comps have a -1.5, -3, and -4.5 db jumper for the tweeters, as well as a low, mid, and high jumper for crossover point for the mids. I think the low crossover is about 2k, the mid about 3k, and the high 4.5k? I'd have to double check. 3.5k is about the average crossover on a set of passives I'd say.

[ppiflat10s 3]

ok, well, apparently am a very impulsive and impatient person...

just bought a factory refurb infinity reference 475a (75x4@4 ohms), got it for 80 after tax and shipping, so Im pretty happy.

I have also been researching building my own passive crossovers, splitting my front output and running the amp 4ch, setting one xover at a ~70-80Hz HPF (not sure where I will LP the subs) and building a LP to cut the highs out of the mids at a freq I decide after more research. and then of the other 2 channels run full range and build a HPF for the tweets. I know going active (which this really isnt a legitimate setup anyways) isnt recommended for a beginner, but oh well, if it could work, Ill try it.

also, what kind of frequencies become noticable for the rear of the vehicle. if I built a set of crossovers to run mid and tweet from the front channels, but HP the setup a little higher and bridge the rear channels and HP them right above the sub, and run a LP to the point right before sound gets really directional and run one 8 on the rear deck or something for a little more powerful midbass. it would be ran IB basically so not sure how good it would work.(just a crazy idea I have and no clue if it would work)

about getting my RCA's to the front/rear on the amp, only from the front output on the deck (pioneer swaps the rear speaker leads to the same LPF the subs get, right?) could I just run the fronts into the amp, and then run a short 1 foot length of RCA's from the output to the rear input? or should I split the signal before the amp?

thanks for the help, cant wait to get home and install all this stuff.