i wanna learn how

[porkchop 304]

should i download winisd or winisd pro?

[NB50 206]

If you want. A pencil and paper is better. Winisd doesn't really design boxes for you, the only thing I see it helping with is to check port length.

[porkchop 304]

oh, well i am decent with that method, well i guess i am, i just figured perhaps i was lacking some skills still, uh so there is no design help on them programs, just calculators?

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Read up some on www.bcae1.com. Also there are some very skilled builders and designers on here. It can be walked through if need be.

[porkchop 304]

Read up some on www.bcae1.com. Also there are some very skilled builders and designers on here. It can be walked through if need be.

okay, thanks bro, you know i will.

[NB50 206]

They give you suggestions on different enclosure types but I'm not sure on how much faith id put in them. Download WInISD just to play around with it(its free), just be aware that the response will not look like that in a car.

[porkchop 304]

right on, well denim said read up on here, www.bcae1.com, and you said use the old pencil/paper route so i will do that first and then maybe i will through something at winisd and see how it does.

[NB50 206]

Well yeah read, I still am reading even if I may know the answer there always could be something in there that I don't know or need a refresher on. When I started I did a form of the pencil and paper method in which I entered all the formulas in excel and kept tweaking it and still am.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Learn some of the basics, and build a few test boxes. Maybe check out a free CAD program to get your mind wrapped around the design better if it will help, lots of people use Google SketchUp. If you want to get fancy, look at Alibre, but they hound you constantly asking if you will buy.

[porkchop 304]

thanks fellas, i will try to post up some i have done tomorrow, see ya.

[porkchop 304]

okay, i guess i am not hip how to determine what volume and port frequency this sub needs......gonna re-look for it , but i am not seeing it.

[porkchop 304]

2009 WMD215R D1 T/S parameters in series :

FS 25 hz

Qms 4.3

Vas 3.7 cft

mms 368 g

re 2 ohms

Qes .52

SPL 87 db SPL 1w/1m

pdia 330.2 mm

Qts .46

Le 1.2

BL 15

i find this and in another spot he says the fs is 24 hz

and then i found this int he post also;

Xmax is around .75" and Xmech is 1.5"(FYI both parameters are 1 way) So 3" total throw.

still looking for like the box/port info

[porkchop 304]

lets do 24" tall......that floor area is funky, i need to gut it and install a level sub floor.

53" wide..... easy enough, with a little room on either side (inches).

18" deep....... this lets the seats be relaxed back to a comfy ride.

24" X 53" X 18" will be a good starting point.....i might get rid of a couple of inches in heigth, trying to stay even with the window line. not for comp but more for just looks.

24x53x18=22896/1728=13.25 cubes!

so yeah loosing a couple of inches in the heigth will be fine.

so i really was wanting to do sub up, port to the side, but maybe the first box could be sub up, port up , sub on passenger side, port on drivers.

, but with the other style with the areos firing externally to the side into a loading chamber, you got any input on that style?

thanks chop.

[porkchop 304]

something like this, what do you guys think? sorry, suck at art class.

Edited September 18, 2009 by porkchop

[KU40 173]

I've never really seen ports to the side have the best results. Did you get this idea from somewhere, or is it just for looks or fitting purposes?

You may also not want to have the amplifier attached to the box. Vibrations can damage the amplifier. With a super nice amp like a 3000d I wouldn't risk it.

[porkchop 304]

I've never really seen ports to the side have the best results. Did you get this idea from somewhere, or is it just for looks or fitting purposes?

You may also not want to have the amplifier attached to the box. Vibrations can damage the amplifier. With a super nice amp like a 3000d I wouldn't risk it.

* the idea of the ports to the side, uh i have seen several, i think rushnrun's truck is like that, but slot ported. seen it in a few CRX's too, alot of aeros in those style installs....so yeah looks have a part in it, it's different, but i have heard this allows it to load off the side, instead of firing forward, i am going to try to do all of the research i can before i go that route, if not will probably fir e both up, slot ported and call it a day. fit wise, plenty of room for a single 15" , just want to have one of those installs that i know the enclosure is getting me the most out of my sub, and like i said, the looks seem cool to me, being different......i think i also seen a box that PTS built with aeros firng into a loading chamber, i am not well versed in it, just like the style.

* big 10-4 on the amp mount, it was just thrown in the pic like that. i was thinking of welding up a little mount so it will float in that generall area, but slightly angled perhaps......i mounted amps to boxes several years back and got plenty of comments to learn from that opps...lol.

* thanks for your input, i am surfing around trying to find out what i can learn on what box will excell in my Dakota.

thanks Chop.

[shizzzon 461]

I've never really seen ports to the side have the best results. Did you get this idea from somewhere, or is it just for looks or fitting purposes?

You may also not want to have the amplifier attached to the box. Vibrations can damage the amplifier. With a super nice amp like a 3000d I wouldn't risk it.

My last build was ported to the side as that was the best box design i tested to also be able to allow me to put batteries in the back of my hatch as well.

Burped a 148.0 flat on the TL tuned DAILY just for fun using 2 12s. I also had the amps mounted on top of the box for about a year with no problems, sold them and still no problems.

I used Luxury Liner pro and multiple rubber washers to prevent vibration damage.

I still use Luxury Liner Pro as an absorbent in my installs.

All my current fans and amps all have that under their mounting feet because the road alone is bumpy enough.

[shizzzon 461]

oh, since u in indy, the best thing you could do is come to me so i can run a test box in your ride for about 3 hrs.

We can plot out about 24 box designs in excel and go from there as to which one you like the best in terms of output at your favorite frequency range.

I can find your car's peak note and use that in conjunction with the box designs to find the best box for your spl potential and so on.

All this would take a good day so the weekend is the best.

You won't find anything research-wise what will be the best design for any vehicle...

Test and test is what u do and i am only 1 state away.

[porkchop 304]

I've never really seen ports to the side have the best results. Did you get this idea from somewhere, or is it just for looks or fitting purposes?

You may also not want to have the amplifier attached to the box. Vibrations can damage the amplifier. With a super nice amp like a 3000d I wouldn't risk it.

My last build was ported to the side as that was the best box design i tested to also be able to allow me to put batteries in the back of my hatch as well.

Burped a 148.0 flat on the TL tuned DAILY just for fun. I also had the amps mounted on top of the box for about a year with no problems, sold them and still no problems.

I used Luxury Liner pro and multiple rubber washers to prevent vibration damage.

I still use Luxury Liner Pro as an absorbent in my installs.

All my current fans and fans all have that under their mounting feet because the road alone is bumpy enough.

well i am still thinking this will be sorta how my first box will be, having second thoughts on aeros, for cost vs looks reasons.

[shizzzon 461]

flared ports are only recommended when you are pressed for port area. Otherwise, it's not necessary

[porkchop 304]

amp mount.

we used some rubber setting blocks that were intended for setting large sheets of glass as shims for the amps before, it worked well.

i just really want an excuse to break out the stinger and tig some sh*t up.

chop

[shizzzon 461]

if u wanna go crazy and dont care about the vehicle... i'll do some no-reverting-back install designs for ya

You better go get u some air ride because crazy installs require a foundation that weighs a ton.... and in some vehicles that isn't exaggerated.

[porkchop 304]

right on, i will try to put this together then. i will send the family to the zoo, we still have the membership there. lol.

i will try to get the trucks rear interior gutted and deadened in the coming weeks.

will i need to have power ran and amp/sub with me?

[porkchop 304]

uh, the truck is mine, it is not a collectible, we will have to keep budget in mind till ironwork picks back up, i would want to have the ability to cruise and ground pound around town still.....but modifying the truck beyond resale....no problem....

[porkchop 304]

mdizzle said to count him in!