need a box design

[notloudenuff 0]

i am looking to try out a new design in my ranger. this will be for a 15" btl fully loaded. my max outer dimensions are 50 long x 16 deep x 18t all. heres the kicker, i would like the sub in the middle of the box facing the roof and would like to have the ports doing the same on each side of the sub. i am looking to get it tuned to 30-35 hz. the only reason i want the sub in the middle is because my truck is bagged and i want the weight in the center for even psi on both sides.

i live near milwaukee wi if anyone is wondering

[notloudenuff 0]

my dimensions were wrong, the correct dimensions are 50 long x 17 deep x 16 tall.

thanks, josh

[notloudenuff 0]

anyone?

[porkchop 304]

wait for the fun part of the weekend to go away......things are slow right now....you'll want to include what you are powering the sub with, as well as , your music listening preferance.

Chop

[KU40 173]

Well you will have to make the box 17" wide in order for the sub to fit on the top face.

For a 4 cube box @ 33 hz, try 46" long x 17" wide x 16" tall. Outer dimensions. The ports on each side will be 15.5" x 2" at the opening, and 33.5" long.

[notloudenuff 0]

wait for the fun part of the weekend to go away......things are slow right now....you'll want to include what you are powering the sub with, as well as , your music listening preferance.

Chop

it will be power buy 1100 watts off a memphis mc1000d for now. as for the music i listen to everything but mainly rap or bass songs while im driving with the volume up.

[notloudenuff 0]

Well you will have to make the box 17" wide in order for the sub to fit on the top face.

For a 4 cube box @ 33 hz, try 46" long x 17" wide x 16" tall. Outer dimensions. The ports on each side will be 15.5" x 2" at the opening, and 33.5" long.

i cant go with any longer or shorter dimensions, it will be placed on a false floor and it would look tacky if the box was shorter than the floor. i want to stay under the back window line for the height and i dont want to lose anymore leg room/ seat recline for the depth (17" is already pushin it)

thanks for the help though.

outer dem. 50 long x 17 deep x 16 tall. sub and ports on the top of the box.

[KU40 173]

If you wanted it that exact size you should have said so in the beginning instead of saying max dimensions.

make the same port openings but 30" long. The net size will be about 4.7 cubes and you'll be tuned to 32 hz. If you put a little bracing in there you'll cut down box size and raise the tune a tad but will still be within your 30-35 hz range.

[notloudenuff 0]

If you wanted it that exact size you should have said so in the beginning instead of saying max dimensions.

make the same port openings but 30" long. The net size will be about 4.7 cubes and you'll be tuned to 32 hz. If you put a little bracing in there you'll cut down box size and raise the tune a tad but will still be within your 30-35 hz range.

sorry bout the confusion. so should i just go with the port size 14" down into the box then "L" it over 16" to keep the 2" port size?

how do you think i should brace it? i have never had to built a box this complex before and i am trying to do this box the right way because the sub tore apart the last box i made for it.

thanks for the help

[KU40 173]

Well you can't have the port 14" long because of the width of the wood of the box. Since the box is only 16" deep outer dimensions, the first port wood piece can only be 12.5" long (since the opening of the front baffle counts as port length). However the length of the port along the first length would be 14.25: .75" for the front baffle which counts as port since that has the opening, the 12.5" long board, and 1" into the corner since you measure down the middle of the port to get port length. Then you can turn it 90* and run it along the back wall for the rest of the 15.75". But your port piece for that section would only need to be 14" long after you subtract another 1" for the corner since you're measuring down the middle, and .75" for the width of the first port board, which you'd but this one up against.

[notloudenuff 0]

Well you can't have the port 14" long because of the width of the wood of the box. Since the box is only 16" deep outer dimensions, the first port wood piece can only be 12.5" long (since the opening of the front baffle counts as port length). However the length of the port along the first length would be 14.25: .75" for the front baffle which counts as port since that has the opening, the 12.5" long board, and 1" into the corner since you measure down the middle of the port to get port length. Then you can turn it 90* and run it along the back wall for the rest of the 15.75". But your port piece for that section would only need to be 14" long after you subtract another 1" for the corner since you're measuring down the middle, and .75" for the width of the first port board, which you'd but this one up against.

can you draw me up a diagram?

[KU40 173]

Well all I have is paint so this is all I could do. Red dots are measured port length.

[notloudenuff 0]

it will be made out of 1" mdf.

are these numbers right?

how should i brace it?

[KU40 173]

oh, 1". Yeah my numbers were based off 3/4". But your numbers look right.

[notloudenuff 0]

how do u think i should brace it? if my numbers are right i will only have 16" between the ports at the bottom of the box. i was thinking of going with threaded rod and just go through the

bottom port but i wasnt sure how that would affect the sound.

[notloudenuff 0]

somthing like this, there would be four rods evenly spaced with a nuts and washers on the inside and the outside of the top baffle to minimize the box flex

Edited September 14, 2009 by slammed94

[notloudenuff 0]

this would be the top view except more even and exact spacing between the rods. (i guess i just wanted to play with paint.lol)

[KU40 173]

That should be fine