Chris' Wall Build in the Aviator vids p.35

[Lucky 76 5]

ok, i need some more measurements unless you already know-

So, from front to back of this box, and from bottom to top-

Baffle- I have 58" wide the first 35" up, then 50" wide from 35-41.25" high. ---------- 32.5 from the dance floor - 41.25"s

That dimension will go back 14". -------- YES

The last time you measured everything, you told me from the front of the box to the hump was 26" deep.

So... is it 30" deep now since u moved it up 4"? -------- YES

Also, once over the hump, u said it was 38" high... but u also subtracted 1" from the baffle height so is the hump still 38" high or is it 37" high? -------- 38"s

Also, you recently said that all the way up at the baffle, u can get 50" wide ALL THE WAY TO THE HUMP... So this means that for at least the 26-30" deep, i can maintain 50" wide correct? ----- NO - Only the first 14s the we need to shrink it to 41.5"s because of the pillars =( ... We can extend the box back more if needed we just need approx 13-14s back there but more room would be nice.

Also.. what is the width ONCE OVER THE HUMP? I thought the width shrank... if it does, what is it? And remember, u may not need those panels on either if you want to maintain 50" wide. ------ The most we can go is 41.5"s due to the pillars.

The hump is 30"s back. There is an area before the hump measuring 16"s. The reason why it is not included in the 14"s is because it starts to shrink to the 41.5"s wide. What is the max length you plan to go after the hump?

[shizzzon 461]

gonna have to put the build on halt then until we can fix this problem-

I was under the impression that i could go up to 35 before shrinking the width...

Because you say i can only go up to 32.5, that kills the chance of goin to competition with this build...

Sure u can still compete but your potential would be a lot better if it didnt change.

Port area has shrunk by almost 90sqin.

[Lucky 76 5]

gonna have to put the build on halt then until we can fix this problem-

I was under the impression that i could go up to 35 before shrinking the width...

Because you say i can only go up to 32.5, that kills the chance of goin to competition with this build...

Sure u can still compete but your potential would be a lot better if it didnt change.

Port area has shrunk by almost 90sqin.

Why can we not just go back more to increase port area?

[shizzzon 461]

go back more?

58" is the maximum width you can go with...

You go back more, and it cuts down to 50"... then in the 40s... it gets worse the farther back u go.

I've got other ideas but i do not know how to tune them...

Or should i say.. i believe i know how to tune them but i do not know the outcome..

People like Steve Meade and some other guy in a truck bed has done a design where you would build 2 side firing walls facing each other.

At the back of the vehicle, the port shoots down in between ALL the subs.

This design works awesome in terms of space inside of an SUV...

In terms of performance.. i have no idea...

You must ask people who have done it because i am dumb in that field..

I'm sure cancellation and phasing issues are the primary problem for such a design but i know it works.. just don't know how good.

You also have another design i havent seen anybody try... I'm sure it's been done but here it is-

a 6th order bandpass 2 side firing walls-

2 18s would be firing directly onto a wall a few inches away from the front of the subs. The distance from the wall is the width of the port! The other 2 18s are on the otherside of the vehicle facing toward the middle of the vehicle doing the same.

The back wave comes from the very back of the vehicle and travels down the center in between both walls on each side, no cancellation or phasing at all there.

So u would actually have 3 very large ports...

the problem with this design is... i have absolutely NO IDEA how big any chamber should be...

I could draw it.. just can't design it.

[Lucky 76 5]

We'll just play it safe and stick with the original design. I guess just make it with the most possible port available. What if we just do a single layer of mdf instead of 2 for the port? Wouldnt that increase port area by a decent amount?

[shizzzon 461]

i dont want to.

If it increased port area, then your subs would be mounting directly into the thickness of the port.. It's different when it's 1.5" thick but just 0.75", you don't want that. Port area would remain the same.

Can't u do somethin with the dance floor!?!?

U are takin away 2.25" of height from the design...

that's a LOT for a floor.

If you run 4 runs of 1\4" thick x 2" wide steel from left to right of vehicle... that would save you 2" of height easily... hell, maybe even the whole 2.25".

Just secure it some thick wood that meets the steel and floor then secure the wood to the floor.. it's all good there.

You could even weld some steel to the steel and secure that to the floor.

[Lucky 76 5]

We cant because of the transmission bump in the way. The way the dance floor is now there is a .5" sheet of plywood over the top to level it all off because the tranmission bump's height decreases going towards the hump

[shizzzon 461]

ok, so u are using the 0.5" sheet to keep the build level...

Well.. you are gonna need to put things under this floor to keep it level to the hump but still... that's 0.5"... where is the other 1.75" lost at?

you know... hehe, steel can be kept level just by running 1 run of 2x4 or 4x4 on each side of the hump and laying the steel on top...

I'm tryin to get this height down...

If you are not willing to do any of that... i will continue to built it...

The capability of doing port swapping will be impossible, port plugging is the only alternative and like competition... more port area the better..

You may need to port plug just for daily but i wont know yet.. that's something further down that's of no concern right now.

So.. either go steel or go smaller port, which is it?

[Lucky 76 5]

The other 1.75"s is from the transmission bump. We had to make a frame so when we put the .5" piece over the transmission hump it was all leveled off and well supported. I want to get as much as possible but there is no way we can go left to right due to the transmission bump. How much will .5"s add to the port area?

[shizzzon 461]

maybe u are not visioning what i am sayin.

Let's say you are sitting in your aviator looking toward the back-

why can't u do that?

2x4 is an example of what wood to use.

I do not know how tall the hump is but u always measured FROM the hump up and got 41.25".

[Lucky 76 5]

That is what we did. We just used .5" plywood. How thick would the metal sheet be if I were to use it and if I were how much more area are we talking?

Edited August 28, 2009 by Lucky 76

[shizzzon 461]

it's not metal sheet, it's 1\4" thick x 2" wide.

You would do like 4 width-wise runs of it til u get to the hump....

U got me lost again...

Before u built it, it was 41.25" from the hump high.

Now, after this thing you built.. it's still 41.25" high from the plywood but the point at which the width must be shrunk is lower?

How is that possible?

[Lucky 76 5]

it's not metal sheet, it's 1\4" thick x 2" wide.

You would do like 4 width-wise runs of it til u get to the hump....

U got me lost again...

Before u built it, it was 41.25" from the hump high.

Now, after this thing you built.. it's still 41.25" high from the plywood but the point at which the width must be shrunk is lower?

How is that possible?

It is now 41.25 to the ceiling with just .25"s of play. We can still use the 58"s of width up to 14"s back but we did not take into account the pillars before today. The pillars make the box width shrink significantly. If you want, at the pillar, the botttom is a little bit wider than the top.

[Lucky 76 5]

The plywood only adds another 1/4". Would this make a significant difference?

[shizzzon 461]

no it's of no importance.

make sure you are using a LEVEL when doing these measurements.

So, the most i can get is 58" wide up to no more than 32.5" correct?

[Lucky 76 5]

Yes 32.5"s high. I tried taking the panels off of the pillars but there are stupid ac ducts in the way.

[shizzzon 461]

ok, so i build it to be no higher than 41.25" high, exactly how much more space above that do i have in the center of the headliner height-wise?

[Lucky 76 5]

There is no more height. It is all the same. Everything is leveled off as well

[shizzzon 461]

hmm...

I was wanting to run allthread vertically in your box... That would need to stick out of the box.

Only other way is to use 3\4" huriricane or t-nuts and to be honest... i dont think they come that large.

I guess in some places, gonna have to use other non-penetrating bracing.

[Lucky 76 5]

O that can be done. There is some notching. It is just not significant. I thought you wanted it to make the middle of the box larger. There is at least 2-4"s I would say. I would have to look at it again though.

You are referring to where the headliner goes up higher in certain spots of the roof correct?

[shizzzon 461]

yea, not makin the box larger... but definitely need about 2 full inches if u install the outer nut after installing the top of the box if u can reach it!!

If u can't... u would have to put it on before securing the top to the box which is even harder.

Don't worry, if it's near impossible, there's other methods, just not as strong as steel,

[Lucky 76 5]

I'll measure the height difference to be exact. I'm pretty sure ill be able to get to it.

[Lucky 76 5]

So we have at least 2"s in the middle near the hump and then after the hump it dips up again so there is even more room after the hump - I am talking about the hump hump not the transmission hump lol

[JammerJ 7]

Here's what we've done so far...

just a few of the wires run

laying out the frame to make sure it fits

starting to nail the floor together

fits flush with the top of the transmission bump, more bracing was applied

level plywood top on floor

a very blury view of the bracing under the top of the floor

more pics to come soon hopefully lol

[shizzzon 461]

i think it's blurry because you guys are gettin too nervous about the pressure level to come, haha.

I'm not sayin anything yet but i just made a WICKED design for your port... i gotta do some more work to it to determine the final outcome but i think you will like!

I will say this, off the top of my head, it will be 30hz daily, and comp port will be stationary tuned to about 37hz... meaning these will be the only 2 tunings available... i'm still workin on tinkerin it to see what else i can do but once i post up info... it will be a lot of it!